Friday, June 29, 2012

Infusion D'Iris by Prada - The Chandler Burr Untitled Series - S01E01 revealed!

Finally the day of revelation came and Expert in Fragrances and Curator Chandler Burr, together with lovely Katie P went on line, not only to reveal what was the first perfume chosen in the Untitled Series - named S01E01 and sold at Opensky, but also to discuss the many opinions of perfume passionates.
So here you have it readers: Infusion D'Iris by Prada!
I wrote a small review on the fragrance in April19,2010. Small because at that time the fragrance did not strike me as excited Chandler describes it stroke him. It still doesn't I may add.

So here is what I wrote:

"In 2007 Daniela Andrier (IFF) created the second fragrance for Maison Prada,Infusion D'Iris. A fragrance that was described as a voyage to Italy and clean sheets.
A woody - oriental fragrance with notes of galbanum, mandarin orange, orange blossom, lentisk, iris, cedar, vetiver, benzoin and frankincense.
Woody, green, was supposed to be fresh, but it has the same soapy strike Infusion D'Oranger has.
In a nutshell, this fragrance smells like this: if Gulliver would take a long shower and overused soap, Lilliputians would have the same impact in their little noses as I do with Infusion D'Iris by Prada. It might have worked for Infusion d'Oranger (although I would like also that the perfumer would have lowered the tone in this one too), but it kinda annoys me in this one.
The woody cedar blended in earthy iris is magnificent, really delicious. The metallic aceton smell in the opening is great, but too brisk.
Further information:
Lentisk or mastic tree, is a Mediterranean evergreen shrub with a acrid resinous scent. A very precious one. It is also said to be the balm of Genesis. Here it is combined with other resins, such as benzoin and frankincense, and the syrupy vetiver. Bringing to the iris notes, an incredible earthy - woody - mysterious bed.
Bitterness mixed in powder; feminine delicacy mixed with a masculine touch... Ithe result is a fragrance that irradiates broadly.
The first time I tried I hated it, but not convinced, I came back for more many times... and I ended up liking it. But still, wishing someone would work on it, and lower the soapy tone.
Prayers heard, Margiela's Untitled is just what I asked for. Less soap!"

What can I add here? 
Miuccia Prada is know for her excesses, here you will find a good example of it.
A cheap synthetic iris, with a whole load of soap. 
She allows herself to make mistakes in fashion - her very own expertise...

Like wearing no bra with a transparent blouse, when sisters are almost marking a touch down, combined with lemon fringe skirt when you are not thin or young...but hey! It is Prada wear!
So why not allowing herself to make again a huge mistake in the fragrance department?

From all the Pradas I tried, Prada Candy is by far the most intelligent of all the fragrances launched by the brand. 

As per Chandler's project - although I find this a very disappointing start, I fully support the idea of this project. I think it is brilliant!
He might not like what I wrote, but I am loyal to my taste as I am to friendship.
I would recognize this perfume miles away, labeled or not for the simplest reason of all:
It is the most disappointing iris of all times, and I am an Iris freak. To the point of drying my very own roots at home. 
But I understood why he chose it. It made some sense when he explained to the public about this perfume. 
What can I say? We have different opinions.

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