Thursday, March 22, 2012

Trends in fragrances - Kerosene Fragrances showcase

Continuing to study Li Edelkoort trend forecasts and fragrance designers that succeeded to translate them to the perfumery world, I present today our second showcase:

Photo credit: KEROSENE

Last December I was one of the bloggers presenting in first hand groundbreaking news: the birth of a new brand "KEROSENE FRAGRANCES", created by  young fragrance reviewer John Arthur (aka Kerosene Trewthe) - click on KEROSENE FRAGRANCES for the article/interview/fragrance review. Hi first launch R'OUD ELEMENTS, a seductive, incensy & woody EDP caught my attention and filled my heart with joy - what I loved the most is that: one - John is a fragrance reviewer like many of us in the fragrance community, with no classic perfumery training, but with a natural skill; two - he develops the fragrance bottles design by himself; three - he is a cool guy with a shy and gentle way, with a modesty that it is hard to find among perfumers. Most of them have huge egosToday he is going to be the center of my attentions again, because IMO he represents the quintessence of the modern olfactive designer, so let's find out why...

"The more virtual life became, the more tactile we wished to become".
Li Edelkoort

According to forecaster and trendsetter Li Edelkoort, "the globalization of the world as one market brought shopping boredom and uniformity". Today, big chains, such as chain stores, chain food, chain couture, chain coffee houses replaced alternative, unique boutiques. The idea of finding the same products in Paris, Tokyo, Rio, Berlin made us feel equals, connected. That would represents the notion of modern marketing. But is it really the future?

I recall that some people made fun of Le Labo when they launched fragrances that could only be bought in specific towns. Maybe Le Labo is not the greatest niche brand there is, but I think that Eddie & Fabrice knew what they were doing: they were ahead of everybody, launching products that would fight this massive boredom. The concept of making fragrance shopping global was already dead (and this is one more characteristic  of the global marketing - it moves fast). The exclusive, the local, was to be yet forecasted as the new trend of shopping behavior, and eventually it arrived. Bravo Fabrice! I also wished people could still buy Havainas only in Brazil!!

As Li continues to explain in her essay, "to answer to this growing global resistance to constant renewal and limitless expansion, humanity and integrity are requested for the years to come. It is time to empower goods with a new dimension; their own character, an invisible energy locked into the design process".

So here we have a young man that decided to be virtual and share his taste for fragrances in YOUTUBE, making fragrance review videos. Fragrance preferences morphed into virtuality. OK, he is not the only one doing it, and probably not also the first one who did it, but John jumped many steps forward when he transformed the virtual dream into reality. Not just any reality, but a handmade one. The more virtual he became, the more tactile and real he wished to be. He wanted make his own fragrances.

As the guru of trends predicts "The growing influence of an all-encompassing digital fantasy world has triggered an enormous quest for the manual and the tactile, with our fingers deciding through feeling long before our eyes start judging form and volume, and with manually-powered production coming back to the fore".

John not only decided to fulfill a dream that he had, but he started a venture that delivers what consumers are looking for: to touch, to smell, to feel. And he did it in a very clever way. Since he had many followers (globally and virtually), why not to reach out and be even closer to them?

"I believe that we will be able to make the object, concept, or service come alive to be our partner, pet or friend, and to relate to us on a direct and day-to-day level. Only when design will be empowered with emotion will we be able to create a new generation of things that will promote and sell themselves; they will have acquired an aura able to seduce even the most hardened consumers on their own terms. Only then will design have acquired soul." (Li Edelkoort)


Photo credit: KEROSENE

We now have a whiff of Kerosene in our homes, in a direct day-to-day level. We will have drops of his heart and soul (because he puts his heart & soul into these fragrances he creates) bottled just for us - Li says and I quote her - John fragrances will sell because you will find soul in it, you find emotions in liquid form. Check his page in facebook. You will find the the description of the brand as "notes: guts, passion, storms, love, resonance, experiences". This is olfactive design empowered with emotions! The fragrances do have an aura able to seduce us because he uses raw materials that have been seducing HIM all these years.

A bit of his love & passion: Gordana, his girlfriend, and fragrances!

"Great sharing the love of scent with someone special. MiN NY is such a great place. The atmosphere is unlike a place you'll ever experience. Top-freaking-notch". (extracted from John's facebook wall)

"Craft holds this promise: the turn of this century has witnessed a return to the arts and crafts movement in a step-by-step repetition of the last turning of the centuries. Haunted by similar fears and interested by a similar vision, designers and artists have once more taken on the handmade and the hand-finished with absolute fervor". (Li Edelkoort)

Right now I picture many of you saying "So? What about all the niche brands out there? Aren't they boutique fragrances? Aren't they handcrafted too?" Well, not as much as KEROSENE  FRAGRANCES. John has produced every single bottle with his own hands. He does all the painting for all the bottles with automotive paint.

In his own words:

"Although sniffing anything I can get my snout on is quite enjoyable, I began to get bored with sampling scents and I felt it was time to see if I could combine the right notes and create something. My goal; raw, unique, but approachable. With the scents, I wanted the bottle design to match. So I put my painting talents to work, and little did I know, my factory production background would come in good use. Each bottle will be unique, always painted with high quality automotive paint and clearcoat. The result is if a shiny, classic metallic Ford collided with perfume and songs by The Cure resonate out of tiny speakers from the clunky 8-track player". (extracted from MIN NEW YORK website)


If you prefer to listen to his words, check the video in youtube:







The handcrafted design of his fragrance bottles


R'OUD ELEMENTS EDP - both bottle and cap have a clear black coating.


COPPER SKIES EDP - the bottle has green automotive paint, with a small black bird on the right bottom corner, and an imprinted copper label. The cap has a rustic copper wiring rolled on a rustic fabric.


CREATURE EDP - the bottle is the same as Copper Skies, but with an encrusted green cap - as he explained, he wanted a reference to a mossy green monster.

All Photo credits: KEROSENE


"With a consumer ready to embrace the rare, the unraveled and the irregular in this quest for soul in a product, the arts and crafts movement is back at the forefront of fashion and design. The ritualistic qualities inherent to the making of the craft object or the symbolic quality in the concept of a human service will gradually become more important; in a quest for experience, consumers will want to embrace a spiritual dimension and select merchandise to appease this inner need. Some craft items will become new design collectibles within a matter of decades, and already we see the prices of some textiles, objects and artworks escalating to greater and never-before imagined heights…
Therefore the products of the future will be unique as well as universal. Using regional roots, local colour and universal references related to earth, animals, gardening and home. Living an unplugged yet wired lifestyle, considering rural romantic sources of inspiration, craft and design will merge to inspire a new more self-conscious and mature consumer to be. A consumer that becomes the curator of his or her own life". L.E.

If you go back to my interview with John, you will understand that he is exactly doing what Li says. He is using his regional roots from Michigan and its cold weather as a starting point for his creations. He managed to make a urban concept that does not distance itself from the nature of his surroundings. He is offering not only perfumes, but a lifestyle: his!









Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Trends in fragrances - KOKORICO EDT by JPG showcase

In 2009 this blogger had the opportunity to attend to one of the lectures of the trend guru Li Edelkoort. Needless to say that her presentation was not only unforgettable, but thought me a new way of understanding the world around me, and since that day I continue to follow her predictions. I try to understand how the fragrance industry manages to follow and incorporate these trends in their fragrance developments. In 2010 I posted an article about a trend that caught my attention: birds (click HERE if you wish to read it).
Li had already made a parallel between human and chickens in her magazine Bloom (issue number 19).

Photos' credit: Li Edelkoort

I saw all the pictures representing a trend of farming, farming products and animals...roosters...

In her own words:

" autumn/winter
2011-2012
Now that we have recovered from the worst and are experiencing a new fluidity of movement, the economy and therefore culture will take us to a higher plane for a new and even better perspective. In a positive and optimistic mood, fashion and design will take flight and give us wings on the road to new colors, more texture and exalting creativity.
The world of birds is therefore our source of inspiration, with their interesting behavior patterns previewing the society of man. Living in flocks they inspire us to congregate and share, building nests and inviting us to rekindle the love and care we want to give our family and friends; transgressing borders they install in us a new sense of freedom from convention and control; gathering food they initiate the idea of local produce and seasonal harvest.
The collecting of twigs and debris to weave birds’ nests will inspire us to rekindle a keen interest in artistic and crafted weaving, with designer yarns spun from opposing and complementary matter like mohair with silk ribbons and leather and lurex.
The rituals of courting and mating by the male specimens drive us towards a more erotic experience of the night and a more exotic take on rituals, using color, dance and sound as essential attributes".

But how can we translate that trend to a perfume? Farm birds (game) such as chickens are not exactly fragrant, unless cooked or grilled!!

photo credit: JPG 

It takes one very smart man such as Jean Paul Gaultier to understand  & translate a trend when thinking of launching a masculine fragrance.
After the successful LE MALE, JPG is already creating a huge buzz in the fragrance community with his cock fragrance. LOL. Ok, I wrote that on purpose, but cock, or cockerel,  and rooster are the names of the male chicken ;-)
Now, Jean Paul Gaultier knows Li Edelkoort because he is a fashion designer. He knows what the guru says sells. I read in another fragrance blog about JPG's KOKORICO, and that he is known for his easy sense of risk taking... I am sorry, but in the fashion industry there is no such a thing. Risks are not taken, it is all predicted by people like Li Edelkoort!!! The fragrance of a famous fashion designer follows the same rules as his collections. There are no risks, only research.

So let's analyze KOKORICO:

The name of the fragrance is the French onomatopoeia for the cry of a rooster, using the letter K instead of C. Cocoricó in Portuguese; Cock-a-doodle-do in English. Why cock? IMO because cock also refers to the virile male member (penis). Jean Paul Gaultier is the enfant terrrible of French Fashion industry, likes to shock (but always in a creative funny way). Some mentioned that he has pushed the flirting act to a more extreme path...hummmm... in a TOM FORD way of doing things? I don't think so. JPG is much more intelligent than TF. He knows how to deliver a message without becoming vulgar or explicit. He implies the use of the cock symbol. He will never actually show cock or what it represents.

Roosters are very virile and they are usually in charge of many chicks, the hens (roosters are polygamous and they proclaim their territory by crowing). They are intelligent and proud. Contrary to myths, they don't learn how to fight with humans, they do it instinctively.

photo credit: JPG

So JPG chose the rooster to represent what he is now considering the modern masculine behavior that he wishes to sell: a virile, sexy man. He will present you gorgeous model Jon Kortajarena wearing black leather and feathers. He will deliver to you a fragrance that has an olfactive crowing. A flamboyant feathery dramatic fragrance. 

The flacon: the front side has the shape of a human head, from the back side you will find JPG signature shape of a male torso. The colors are dramatic - black and red (like the rooster's colors).
In this video you will watch the fragrance bottle production, and understand a bit more about the JPG style of doing things:



The advertising campaign - the film: You will see the rooster played by Jon K in a sort of Elvis- Flamenco dance, doing what Li describes as "The rituals of courting and mating by the male specimens drive us towards a more erotic experience of the night and a more exotic take on rituals, using color, dance and sound as essential attributes", with 02 lady hens & aka drummers, dressed in mini skirts, loosing a few feathers (in the battle for love, a field of feathers - translated from a Spanish proverb - "a batalla de amor, campo de plumas")



Now, what about the juice?
Does it really matter what comes inside this cock head? IMO it does not matter at all. The idea was planted in our minds and it is what we have been desiring to have - Li went out there checking that for JPG. We want cock ladies and gentlemen.


A bit of patchouli, iris, vetiver, cocoa, cedar and fig leafs...explosive, gourmet, tribal, aphrodisiac...



KOKORICO - the liquid cock crowing on your skin...

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

International Women's Day 2012 Special - PART II

J'ADORE BY DIOR

J'ADORE L'ABSOLU BY DIOR - All J'Adore perfumes are very feminine, but L'Absolu brings the Jasmine-Rose-Ylang absolute trio to the highest level of quality. It is sensual, classy, velvety and most of all, a "curvy" perfume.  If an image worth more than a 1000 words, a whiff of L'Absolu will simply make you speechless! 


Charlize Theron


The golden aura of Charlize is presented in every little drop of J'Adore fragrances, but in L'Absolu it is absolutely divine. Click HERE for a complete review in Portuguese. You can google translate it to English :-)

SUMMER BY KENZO EDP

SUMMER BY KENZO EDP- Although it is called "summer", IMO this fragrance brings the spring spirit to the wearer. It is very almond-y & flowery. Somehow makes me think of a girlie look. You know...flower prints, vaporous dresses, laces, ballerina shoes...Winona Rider timeless baby face...


Winona Ryder


Anyways, Summer by Kenzo always makes me feel very feminine and super happy. I am all smiles wearing it. Crucial for times when women can get cranky...you know... a substitute for chocolates or a true rescue for PMS.

PETITE CHÉRIE EDP

PETITE CHÉRIE EDP BY ANNICK GOUTAL - continuing to mention this girlie style, this one is a fruity-flowery fragrance that was created by Annick to her daughter Camille to celebrate her 18th birthday. The main note in this fragrance is the most feminine of all fruits: peach. We all pursue a peachy skin, peach-like facial bone structure...peachy lips... The scent is delicate and the rose brings a chic touch to it.
Click HERE for a complete review.  


Meg Ryan


Meg Ryan is pure peach. She was the American darling for years. her angelical looks, her amazing smile and fabulous hair were her trademark. IMO she always had the hot combination of a delicate look but a very strong body. 

Photo credit: Isabelle Ribot
for + Q Perfume Blog

So dear female readers, whether you have the diva-mysterious style, or the girlie look, we all know that we are the strong sex in reality. We are the only ones capable of holding another being for 9 months, to give birth to a child, to work 2 shifts in 2 different places at the same time (working moms) always performing multitasked activities. 

And not to forgetting to mention: we are the real reason why perfumery exists! 

You don't deserve just one day, SO HERE IN MY BLOG YOU ARE CELEBRATED EVERYDAY!!

Friday, March 2, 2012

International Women's Day 2012 Special - PART I



Idoru Dévoilée
Photo credit: Isabelle Ribot for + Q Perfume Blog*


As we are approaching March 8th, the date dedicated to women all over the globe, this blogger decided to put together a list of exquisite perfumes that stand out for bringing out femininity, exhaling luxury and style. 
Women today no longer stays at home nurturing children and doing house chores only. We are no longer dependable on a good marriage, aka rich husband. Today we enjoy the possibility of financial independence. Does it sound funny to you that I am mentioning this? Well, there were times where women were seen as a second class citizens, with less rights than men. There were times where women had to obey their brothers and husbands. There were times that we were seen as the fragile sex. Not long ago I must say. I recall one Criminal Law teacher, during my years studying Law, who said to all the classroom in a very loud voice something concerning my grades "I don't know why you try so hard if we all know very you will marry a rich guy and be a housewife, why don't you take culinary classes instead!". Or a former boss in a Law office in my first day working there "I sincerely hope you have a nanny lined up because I can't stand moms not coming to work because their kids are sick!". 
But back to our list, the fragrances I decided to pick are for the modern women who are not fragile or like the tomboy look. So, despite there are many fragrances that I adore and wear, they won't be listed because I seek here perfumes that can really enhance our feminine essence. You will find luminous, fresh, alluring, seductive, velvety perfumes that IMO are simply worth trying.

Photo credit: PUREDISTANCE

PUREDISTANCE I - a fresh green floral with subtly fruity overtones and a warm musky-ambery base that brings the aura of the most elegant of all women. I would even dare to call it the Grace Kelly perfume. Chic, timeless, sleek and pure in essence, this perfume designed by perfumer Annie Buzantian is the quintessence of the modern feminine women. 

GWYNETH PALTROW

It contains Grace Kelly's royalty, Natalie Portman magnetic intelligent style, and a large dose of Gwyneth Paltrow glowing beauty. What I mean to say is that this fragrance brings the classic Hollywood glamour, but it does not smell old fashioned. It is my first choice for glamourous impacts, and it works every time!

IDYLLE EDT

IDYLLE EDT BY GUERLAIN - Idylle is a flowery-exuberant perfume that contains the most modern concept of women: sensual and romantic. This perfume contains illuminated tenderness. It is precious and luxurious and very classy. As strange as it may sound, I think this is the elixir for blondes. It spreads out the luminosity of blonde women.

NAOMI WATTS

Although not endorsing this fragrance, Idylle is the very essence of Naomi Watts gentleness and blonde beauty. 

NARCISO RODRIGUES FOR HER EDP - This fragrance blends an amazing duo of rose and musk, bringing an alluring sensual effect to its wearer. It is a fact that men simply fall on their knees because of this perfume. It is soft, silky and creamy at the same time, and most of all, gorgeously seductive without being aggressive or imposing. Voluptuous without being cheap. Simply a must have for all women.

UN MATIN D'ORAGE EDP

UN MATIN D'ORAGE EDP BY ANNICK GOUTAL - a springy and shimmering perfume created by Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal, exhaling the natural beauty of gardenias, enhancing vivacity, but endorsing tranquility. This perfume reveals the delicate side of women, without any reference to fragility. On the contrary, it is a powerful statement of presence, but in a very refreshing natural way. 

KATE BECKINSALE

Pure Mila Kunis, Kate Beckinsale and Rachel Bielson refreshing sexy style.

ORMONDE JAYNE EDP

TIARE EDP BY ORMONDE JAYNE - Click on TIARE for a complete detailed review of this fragrance! Linda's composition is a velvety exclusive luxurious perfume that is not for any ordinary woman. It is tailored for  mysterious, seductive, powerful women. 

MONICA BELLUCCI

It contains the strong, almost demanding presence and beauty of divas like Eva Green, Megan Fox, Monica Bellucci and Penelope Cruz. 

To be continued...




*Isabelle Ribot is a French artist friends with + Q Perfume Blog. Her beautiful work presented here cannot be reposted without previous consent of this blog and the artist.

Thursday, March 1, 2012

Esxence UPDATED BRAND LIST


Esxence – The Scent of Excellence 2012

4a edizione, 29 Marzo – 1 Aprile 2012
Milano, Palazzo La Permanente
New update for the brands list!

ABATON TOP BUSINESS NICHE - ABSOLUMENT ABSINTHE - ACCA KAPPA - ACQUA REALE - AEDES DE VENUSTAS – AGONIST







ALTERNA PROFESSIONAL HAIRCARE - AMANDA LEPORE - ANDREA MAACK PARFUMS - ANDRÉE PUTMAN - ANNEMARIE BÖRLIND







ANTONIO VISCONTI – APOTCARE - APRIL AROMATICS - AQUA DI PONZA - ATELIER COLOGNE - AUTOUR DU PARFUM – BAHOMA






BEAUTY BY CLINICA IVO PITANGUY – BECCA - BIEHL PARFUMKUNSTWERKE - BLOOD CONCEPT - BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS






BOND NO.9 - BONHEUR POUR LA MAISON - BOTTEGA DEL PROFUMO - BOUGIES RENOMA - BRUNO ACAMPORA PROFUMI – BYREDO






CALÈ FRAGRANZE D'AUTORE - CARLA FRACCI - CARNER BARCELONA - CARTHUSIA, I PROFUMI DI CAPRI - CASTLE FORBES






CERCHI NELL'ACQUA - CLIVE CHRISTIAN - COSTUME NATIONAL – CREED - CZECH & SPEAKE – DORIN - DR. GRITTI - EAU DE KIKI






ESCENTRIC MOLECULES - ETAT LIBRE D'ORANGE - FLEUR DE CAFE' – FLORIS – FRAGONARD – FRAPIN - FY FAUCOGNEY - GAMILA SECRET






GIANNA ROSE ATELIER – HEELEY - HISTORIAE PERFUME OF HISTORY – HOUBIGANT - HUGH PARSONS - HUMIECKI & GRAEF






ILLUMINUM PERFUME – INEKE - JACOMO PARIS - JANE IREDALE - JARDINS D'ÉCRIVAINS – JEAN PATOU - JULIETTE HAS A GUN






KEIKO MECHERI - LA COLLINA TOSCANA – LBF - LES ARGANIERS - LES PARFUMS DE ROSINE - LES VOILES DÉPLIÉES – LINARI






LM PARFUMS -  MAÎTRE  PARFUMEUR ET GANTIER - MARIELLA MARTINATO - MEN'S HERITAGE - MEO FUSCIUNI - MILLER HARRIS






MOLINARD PARFUMS - MOLTON BROWN – MONTALE - MONTGOMERY TAYLOR FRAGRANCES – MTJ - MY INNER ISLAND – NASOMATTO






NEOM LUXURY ORGANICS - NEZ À NEZ - NOBILE 1942 - ODILE LECOIN – ODIN - OFFICINE DEL PROFUMO - OLFACTIVE STUDIO






OMNIA -ORIGINAL TOILETRIES - PANAMA 1924 - PARFUMS D'ORSAY PARIS - PARFUMS DE MARLY - PARFUMS DE NICOLAÏ






PARFUMS M. MICALLEF - PARFUMS NICOLAS DANILA - PERRIS MONTE CARLO - PETER THOMAS ROTH - POPUP PARIS






PRINCESSE MARINA DE BOURBON - PROFUMI DEL FORTE - PROFUMI DI PANTELLERIA - PRUDENCE PARIS - RANCÉ 1795






RECIPE FOR MEN - ROBERT PIGUET - ROSE & CO. MANCHESTER - ROYAL CROWN – RUBIS - SEPAI SKINCARE TECHNOLOGY
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