Sunday, August 16, 2015

RUBINI Fundamental
Photo credit: + Q PERFUME BLOG

Launch: 2015
Country : Italy (Verona)
Perfumer: Cristiano Canali/ Olfactive Director: Ermano Picco/ Package Designer: Francesca Gotti/ Brand Owner: Andrea Rubini

Olfactive Notes: Bergamot, Tangerine, Hesperidic Flowers, Soave Grapes, Maquis, Florentine Iris, Beeswax, Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Vetiver Java, Velvet Accord, Leather

Description by the brand: "Verona, 1937. The brightness of colognes and brillantines Pietro Rubini provided to barbershops of the town is the first welcome getting into the small perfume shop downtown. A face powder says a lady and suddenly the air is filled in the fine powder and alluring smells. The heart of the scene costumes and lights exalts the dense smell of greasepaint he often gives as a gift to opera singers at the Arena to promote himself. The most daring smells though come at the evening mixing smoke and mischievous talks to the perfumes and coquetries Pietro sells in the wore houses after work. So I imagined these aromas layer and shine in the golden light of September that ripens Soave grapes to render a special man, his courage and passion for beauty as basic values now distilled in fundamental."
Description by + Q Perfume Blog: waxy-leathery, bubbly , relaxing chic!

Market price/store: USD145 at Luckyscent.

RUBINI Fundamental
Photo credit: RUBINI

In a blogger's life sometimes you face difficult situations. Once you are very active in the perfume community you start building relationships and sometimes long lasting friendships with perfumers and brand owners. Truth is that every time I am sent a fragrance to review, or simply as a gift, there is a moment of breathless fear when I open the envelop or box. What if...? What if I will find the fragrance a total fiasco and the person sending is a friend of mine? Yes, there is always that moment of pure fear and suspense. Sometimes followed by a huge smile; sometimes followed by a profound sadness and worry. When my dearest friend and confidant and blogger ( Ermano Picco  said he had been developing a fragrance together with Cristiano Canali for an Italian brand and that he wanted my address to send me samples, my heart simply stopped! Anxiety installed at maximum grade, I waited impatiently for those samples to arrive. I remember like it was yesterday the day the samples finally arrived. I opened the envelope and said to myself "you don't have to worry, after all Ermano has a magnificent nose and taste. He would never be involved in a fiasco!". I was right. Rubini's fundamental is simply A-M-A-Z-I-N-G!
If you loved Voluté EDT and EDP by Diptyque or Absolue EDP by Mona di Orio you will certainly love fundamental. They kinda have the same "aura".

It is no secret to me that Ermano loves irises Fiorentine and a beautiful solar Hisperidic note, after all he is 100% Italian and so it is the brand. The surprise really came for the fact that the perfume is around a grape note. Researching I got enough info to understand the idea:

"The Soave Blend refers to the combination of Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave (or Verdicchio) that make up Soave DOC wines, arguably one of Italy's most famous white wines. This crisp and fruity white wine, made mostly in the Venetian hills near Verona, is now enjoyed around the world, offering a simple and refreshing wine experience.
Garganega forms the bulk of Soave wines. In dry whites it provides structure, with its steely mineral character and fruit components of citrus, peach and apricot, and in sweet Recioto di Soave wines, it adds richer tropical fruits and honey notes. The Soave DOC laws stipulate that at least 70 percent of the blend must be Garganega..." (edited from wine

The grape note enhanced the irises' minerality. Beewax amplified the honeyed facet of the grape. Crispy and fruity, chic and elegant, the fragrance opens with a luminous hisperidic bouquet that later will develop into a more masculine experience.
The sensual masculine base took me to a trip to the Italian wineries holding hands with an Italian man whose casual elegance is the perfect mix of classic chic and effortless whimsy. 

Rubini Fundamental express style and grace, with a studied carelessness and a hidden sophisticated attention to details, that is the very essence of the Italian way of doing all things. 

Bravo Ermano!
Many thanks to you, Canali and Rubini for bringing a modern breath to classic Italian style!
Baci mille!

Sunday, August 2, 2015


The lounge minutes before starting

This blogger has a long term relationship with CDCP - A center for diffusion of perfume knowledge in São Paulo, Brazil. Through this partnership I have been invited to be one of the jurors of the perfume award Atualidade Cosmética and I have been making brainstorming sessions with fragrance houses and marketing strategy projects.

This year they invited me to give a lecture on Niche Perfumery as part of the studies of perfume in a year round course they offer to professionals of the industry of perfumery and cosmetics.

It was a 3 hours lecture where I told them the history of Niche Perfumery; the concept of niche; the classifications of niche brands an niche perfumery as it is today and its future. We explored many brands and many different concepts in a whiff & think session.

It was very interesting to share ideas with marketing managers and perfumers and how professionals of the cosmetic industry and packing developers could use some of the ideas of niche perfumery in their businesses.

The brands presented were:

Annick Goutal, Jo Malone, Antonio Alessandria, Heeley, Yosh, Mona di Orio, Keiko Mecheri, Olivier Durbano, Maison Kurkdjian, Jovoy Paris, Victoria Minya, Editions de Parfums Frederique Malle, État Libre d’Orange, CB I Hate Perfume, S-Perfume, Blood Concept, A Lab on Fire, Juliette Has a Gun, Nasomatto, Histoires de Parfum, biehl parfumkunstwerke, Fueguia 1833, Olfactive Studio, Clive Christian, Creed, Xerjoff, Puredistance, Ormonde Jayne, Rancé , Creed, Penhaligons’, Fragonard, Maitre Parfumeur e Gantier,  Lubin, Santa Maria Novella, Farmacia SS. Annunziata dal 156, Les Parfums de Rosine, Le Labo, Byredo, Ego Facto, Bond Nº9, Mandy Aftel, Rich Hippie, Pacifica, Tsi-La, Rebel Intuitive Perfumerie, Strange Invisible Perfumes, Honoré des Prés, Neela Vermiere Creation, Kerosene, The Vagabond Prince, Aus Liebe zum Duft, Aedes de Venustas, Min NY, Comme de Garçons, Aesop, Costes, Ladurée, Les exclusifs, Van Cleef & Arpels Colection Extraordinaire, Tom Ford Private Blend, Estée Lauder Private Collection, Cartier Lês Heures de Parfum, Dior La Collection Privée.

Shops mentioned: 

Aedes de Venustas, Min NY, Campomarzio 70, Nose, Crème de La Crème, Hip-Nose; and websites luckyscent and  Aus Liebe zum Duft.

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