Saturday, November 26, 2011

Bewitched or BECLOUDED by OUD fragrances

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Agarwood, Agar, Aloeswood, Aoud, Oudh or just OUD oil are all words to define the same thing - a precious oil that although used by cultures of the Middle and far East for centuries, that seems to be the newest fever among perfumers. 
In nature, sometimes an irritation process caused in animals and plants can result into beautiful things for us humans. As shelled mollusks create beautiful iridescent beads (called pearls) in order to defend their systems agains a grain of sand, the Aquilaria trees infected with fungus create a resinous fragrant substance to protect its wood. As the infection process progresses, the tree produces more and more resin and becomes darker and more fragrant. This resin later extracted, can be used in perfumery.

ASSAM BLACK WOOD from Tripura/2008
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There are many species of Aquilaria trees but the most beautiful Oud oils come from Assam, Borneo, Cambodia and Papua. The Indian Oud (Assam) has an earthy, musky, animal characteristics and it is extracted from the Aquilaria Tree. Borneo Oud has more fruity and honeyed notes, with flowery accents, and it is known for its light and airy appeal. Borneo Kinam is said to be the best Oud there is in the market today. Cambodiam Oud is very potent, very sharp with fecal and caramel characteristics, and Papua Oud is very exotic and rare, with leafy green notes, more floral and more tropical than the others.

Many perfumers are incorporating oud notes (natural or synthetic) in their niche fragrance developments, and many brands are even launching Oud themed perfumes.
But how to detect if it is a natural Oud note? Synthetic or diluted Oud has a leathery scent. It is simple, uncomplicated and rather boring. Genuine Ouds can present a combination of notes, such the ones mentioned above. One of the tests to check for quality is the sinking method. Due to the fact that oud oil is really expensive, it is fair to say that you will only find natural oud oils in niche perfumes.

Fact is that Oud is a bewitching scent, and many of us love to be beclouded in a huge dark cloud of oud fragrance, so I made here a list of the latest launches available:

1.Royal Oud EDP by Creed.
2. OUD EDP by Mona di Orio. 
3. Dark Oud and Moon Oud, both EDP by Montale. 
4. Bond Nº9 - New York Oud.
5. Precious Oud EDP by Van Cleef & Arpels.
5. Oud Immortel and Oud Mysterious, both EDP by Byredo.
6. Royal Oud by Armani EDP.
7. Secret Oud EDp by Caron.
8. Scarlet Oud and Rose Oud , both EDp by Illuminum.
9. By Kilian: Pure Oud, Rose Oud and Incense Oud, all EDP.

I found an amazing website from a fellow facebook friend - Ensar Oud. There you will find many Oud oils (organic, vintage or samples) for sale and many interesting info on this precious perfumery raw material. 


Tara C said...

I love oud... I think my favorite is the Kilian Pure Oud so far.

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

Mine is Mona' far...

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