Tuesday, December 7, 2010

PÊCHE NOIR EDP - Fragrance Review for the Holidays

The best was saved for last!
X-mas recommended fragrance!

For a natural bohemian classy seductive lady.

Niche perfumer Shelley Waddington, know as the 'Carmel Perfumer' received the classic perfumery training in Grasse - France, and since than she has been developing her skills in Carmel (USA), where she has established her own studio. Her previous collection 'Carmel by the Sea' is an ode to her love for this region, and her personal journeys presented by 04 fragrances. Her newest collection 'Odssey' brings 03 olfactive themes: Makeda - in the honor of the Queen of Sheba and her love for King Solomon; Havâne pour Homme - inspired by the Tango; and Pêche Noir - inspired by erogenous zones of a woman.  
All her fragrances are very interesting, but I decided to start reviewing Pêche Noir EDP due to the fact that I was never very found of peaches (besides the peaches in Coco Mademoiselle and Petit Chérie that I do love). Yes, peach is not my favorite fragrance, but this perfume dances around the peach note and it is simply FANTASTIC!

Fragrance:PÊCHE NOIR 
Launch: 2010
Perfumer: Shelley Waddington
Origin: USA
Type:Niche BIO-ethical
Olfactive family: Chypre - fruity
Olfactive Notes: Bergamot, Galbanum, Hyacinth, Gardenia, Peach, Rose, Jasmine, Orris, Muguet, Lily, Vetiver, Smokey Leather, Oakmoss, Musk, Sandalwood, Amber.
Description by the Brand: "The balance of light and dark, passion and intimacy, attainable and forbidden."
Description by + Q Perfume Blog: DARK, JUICY, SOPHISTICATED, BOHEMIAN
Silage: Medium
Fixation: Medium
★★★★★ - A long sensual Bohemian night. 
★★★★ - A Bohemian night that could have last longer.
★★★ - A Bohemian night with little fun.
★★ - Is this what you call Bohemian?
★ - I want to forget this night!

Samples provided by perfumer upon my request.
Could pair with: 1740 EDP by Histoires de Parfums for him, to get a Bohemian couple experience!

You can find Shelley Waddington fragrances at her website by clicking HERE.

As Shelly explained to me, via diaries, e-mails, facebook messages, this fragrance is about erogenous areas of the female body. It is about the neck, that is a very sensual part to be revealed by the Japanese Geisha and about  the split peach, symbol of the female genitalia in the Chinese culture. 

For most foreigners, Geishas are experts in the erotic art. In fact, those women are called Yujus, not Geishas. Geishas were a symbol of the early history of Japanese entertainment. They were experts in the arts of poetry, dance, music and conversation. The hanamachis, or Geishas' district, were places where Japanese men would come to be entertained. If a Geisha decided to dispense sexual favors, that was her own choice, not her duty as a Geisha. As japanese women barely left their homes and their children, men attended the hanamachis to seek for fun. They usually held mistresses that were formal Geishas. So, Geishas did engage into sexual activities, but that was a much more complex process, not prostitution.

Girls with potential would have to attend to Geisha's school to develop her skills, including learning how to dress and make up. 
The back of the neck had to be painted with a white color, showing a perfect V shape unpainted, which somehow hinted at a female's private parts. Due to the fact that Geishas had to live by her own expenses and were forbidden to marry, they had to find a Danna, or sponsor. Her Danna would help her to open her own tea house at some point later in her life. So, we can say that the Geishas caught their Dannas by the neck (LOL).
And isn't it a marvelous idea to be inspired to create a fragrance?

Click HERE to see a video of a Maiko painting her neck - traditional style. 

But as I told Shelly, each of us have our own bag of memoirs, our own technicolor visions of a fragrance, and Pêche Noir to me has more of the bohemian aura/side of the Geishas. To review this fragrance I will relate to the fact that Geishas lived a 'bohemian' life, entertaining men, rather than the simple sensuality of their necks.
Bohemianism, as Wiki cleverly describes, is the practice of the unconventional life style, often in the company of like minded people, involving musical, artistic and literary pursuits  with few permanent ties. The American College Dictionary defines Bohemian as 'a person with artistic or intellectual tendencies, who lives and acts with no regards to conventional rules of behavior.'

Vicent Van Gogh 
Terrace of a Café in Montmatre - 1886

Smelling this perfume for the first time on my skin, I captured this dark, edgy, nocturnal facet of Chypre fragrances. I think of parisians gathering discussing Paul Sartre in Saint Germain Café. I think of jazzy rendezvous in smokey bars. The taverns, the cabarets, dark smokey bars and absinth drinking ... Poverty mixed with snobery. Chic mixed with hippie.

The opening is very powerful. Peach is fleshy, acid and dark. It is also sparkling and feminine. The perfume has a Cuir de Russie accord containing a very deep and dark tonality, confirming this nocturne aura. Shelley chose sultry hypnotic notes of rose and gardenia, combined with delicate muguets and lilly of the Valley. She played with antonyms. Light opposed to darkness; delicacy and fragility, opposed to powerful solidity and tenacious notes. Chic although hippie bo-ho!
I love Chypre fragrances! The dirty animal base of oak moss, vetiver, leather, combined with the sensual creamy notes of sandalwood, amber and musk is definitely my style!

I cannot think of a better combination than Maurizio Percoraro 2011 Spring collection and Pêche Noir EDP:

Photo credits: Elle magazine

For more Boho chic looks check on Sienna Miller, Kate Moss, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen styles.



Anonymous said...

An awesome post of an awesome and highly talented perfumer and woman!

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

Yes she is. I can't wait to post my review about Poéte de Carmel!!!
I was lucky to receive her samples before X-mas!!

Anonymous said...

Beauty. A beautiful fragrance wrapped in a beautiful review. So satisfying. Will I be able to handle wearing the perfume?!?!?!

Jimmy said...

Brilliant presentation of blog with nice pictures. Keep it up dear.

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

Dabney - I think you should try and see if it will bring you the bohemian side of yours or the Geisha in you! LOL

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

Thanks Jimmy, you are nice :-)

Anonymous said...

Shelley is an artist in the true sense of the word: she creates with originality and uniqueness. I have been fortunate enough to have worn Peche Noir and it lives up to the fabulous review given here. For me it evoked the beautiful still life paintings of fruit of Cezanne and also the sensuality and colors of a Matisse. Bravo to both perfumer and reviewer. I look forward to further articles on Shelley's wonderful creations.

Marlene said...

That was Marlene in the last post. I must have clicked the wrong the "button"!

Buy Perfumes Online said...

Very informative and detailed review coming from a very reliable source! another A++ post again from QPB. Kudos!

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

I am fighting myself either to review Makeda or Poéte du de Carmel next!

Buy perfume online said...

Lovely review, thoughtful and touching on spiritual and timeless threads.It was meant to be a limited edition, due to the cost and rarity of the aromatics, but so many crave it, I decided to keep it in stock.

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