Monday, April 19, 2010

Untitled by Margiela & Infusion D'Iris by Prada - Brothers in Scent

In 2007 Daniela Andrier (IFF) created the second fragrance for Maison Prada, Infusion D'Iris. A fragrance that was described as a voyage to Italy and clean sheets.
A woody - oriental fragrance with notes of galbanum, mandarin orange, orange blossom, lentisk, iris, cedar, vetiver, benzoin and frankincense.
Woody, green, was supposed to be fresh, but it has the same soapy strike Infusion D'Oranger has.
In a nutshell, this fragrance smells like this: if Gulliver would take a long shower and overused soap, Lilliputians would have the same impact in their little noses as I do with Infusion D'Iris by Prada. It might have worked for Infusion d'Oranger (although I would like also that the perfumer would have lowered the tone in this one too), but it kinda annoys me in this one.
The woody cedar blended in earthy iris is magnificent, really delicious. The metallic aceton smell in the opening is great, but too brisk.
Further information:
Lentisk or mastic tree, is a Mediterranean evergreen shrub with a acrid resinous scent. A very precious one. It is also said to be the balm of Genesis. Here it is combined with other resins, such as benzoin and frankincense, and the syrupy vetiver. Bringing to the iris notes, an incredible earthy - woody - mysterious bed.
Bitterness mixed in powder; feminine delicacy mixed with a masculine touch... Ithe result is a fragrance that irradiates broadly.
The first time I tried I hated it, but not convinced, I came back for more many times... and I ended up liking it. But still, wishing someone would work on it, and lower the soapy tone.
Prayers heard, Margiela's Untitled is just what I asked for. Less soap!
Untitled by Margiela EDP
Launch: 2010
Perfumer: Daniela Andrier (why I am not surprised?)
Olfactive family: Floral woody musk
Olfactive notes: Galbanum essence, Boxwood green, bitter orange Absolute, lentisk, jasmine, galbanum resinoid, musk, cedar, frankincense.
Description by the brand: Extreme simplicity with tremendous sophistication
Description by + Q Perfume Blog: My dreams came true! GREEN, ASHTRAY, ENERGETIC
Rating: ✪✪✪
✪✪✪✪✪ - Beautiful exclusive creation.
✪✪✪✪ - Beautiful, but I have seen this before.
✪✪✪ - Fresh, green but not my thing. I don't see myself wearing this fragrance a lot.
✪✪ - cheap grass and soap.
✪ - why to make twice the same mistake?
The general idea is how to make a new Prada, for a new client, and yet make it smell differently than the original.
The first whiff of this fragrance is very fresh and green. The smell of grass and galbanum is intense and it has a ticking peppery effect.
Green are mixed with woody notes of Boxwood.
Boxwood an evergreen small tree or shrub, is commonly used to make chess boards and the white pins. Violins and guitars of high quality and value are also made of boxwood.
I know this smell pretty well because not only my husband was a chess champion when he was a teenager, so the board is always opened in my home, but he is also a Flamenco guitar player in his free time. He owns one of the finest Spanish guitars money can buy. The smell of the Boxwood is really amazing!! But back to Margiela...
On my skin, after all the green effect has slightly toned down, I found a mix of a leathery - suede note with something that resembles chap sticks made of natural cacao. Some slightly gourmet, but very subtle. It is creamy and greasy. It also reminds me a bit of the scent of molasses grass.
Than it comes another note that I really can't tell what it is. A fatty waxy smell. Lentisk? The mastic gum? I can't really tell because I have to be honest, I have never ever smelled mastic before, even thou I lived in the Middle East. But I will look forward it. But I do smell something fatty and sticky and frankly, not good, to my taste. The smell of lard, of untaken showers... but this is my taste...
The fatty note comes with a cigarette ash note - which sounds weird, but somehow it is creative. I don't hide my hatred for any kind of smoking habits and I hate the smell of cigarettes, but here blended in all the other notes, somehow it works nicely - don't ask, I can't explain!!
Although Iris is not listed as a note in this perfume, it does smell very Prada alike! I smell the earthy Iris here.
Jasmine brings a flowery touch but it is rather pale. The dry down is musky - creamy.
Slightly soapy, slightly earthy - leathery, green, creamy... it is indeed a better Prada.
For beautiful pictures of the fragrance, click HERE.
Sample provided by Henrique Brito

1 comment:

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

Dear Rick, I loved your comments! brilliant!!
True, they have the same aura that is why I called tem bothers in scent.
I have reviewed Miller Harris' Fleurs de Bois, check for it in the months of january and february.
I love that scent.

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