Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Chanel Nº5 Eau Premiere EDP - review

Chanel Nº5 Eau Premiere EDP - Review
Perfumer: Jacques Polge
Notes: Ylang Ylang, aldehydes, neroli, jasmine, rose, vetiver, vanilla
Olfactive family: Floral - Aldehyde
Description by the brand: "An invitation to discover Nº5 as it was for the first time"
Description by + Q Perfume Blog: POWDERY, HEAVENLY, FEMININE
✪✪✪✪✪ - love at first sight
✪✪✪✪ - beautiful as first time
✪✪✪ - five times for the first time is enough
✪✪ - once and for all
✪ - once and never more
In 1921 russian Jewish perfumer (and Coco's lover) Ernest beaux created for Chanel its first fragrance. There are many stories involving the fragrance, but I am not bringing them here because it would be boring, since everyone else has done it already.
CHANEL Nº5 - 1921
Chanel Nº5 is in fact the most famous and most sold perfume above all till today.
The faces in the Chanel advertising posters have changed, the concentrations and the flacons have changed, but not its fame and the magic around it.
And how cleverly they propose a new flanker! Eau Premiere instead of Eau Fraîche, Chanel Nº5 L'Eau or Chanel Nº5 tendre. It is a flanker without having the aura of a flanker. It is an invitation for the granddaughters of Chanel's first clients who became by now ladies, to have a chance to be as chic as their grandmothers and moms were.
In the 20's Chanel was a statement. A rebellious woman who wanted to be modern and independent. Later it was a symbol of luxury and good taste. And today it is as old as furs, hats and gloves. How to keep on going for decades?
By promising a younger Coco. A contemporary fragrance inspired by her character. Coco as she would be if she was young now.
And Chanel brought to us Coco mademoiselle in 2001.
Coco Mademoiselle is all that and much more. My favorite perfume. I also love the EDT. When Polge thought that Eau Premiere is for the ladies who would say "Chanel Nº5 is not for me", I think he meant Mademoiselle. Sparkling freshness, femininity blooming in bouquets of jasmine and roses and a masculine touch. Gabrielle's tomboy personality with a chic aura - just like me!!! I never played with dolls, I hated pink when everyone was wearing it, I liked to play just like boys did, but I never forgot I was a girl. Feminine but not fragile. I could wear a dress or a military uniform (as Didier says), but I was/am 100% lady.
So they understood the possibilities, opening the door to the real idea. The drill lead to a new product: Make Chanel Nº5 again, with a new concept.
In 2008 Chanel finally launched the brilliant marketing idea - the same Chanel Nº5 without being the original Nº5. How you do that? Polge explains: making it lighter, more effervescent, keeping the creaminess and the quality of the original.
The Ylang Ylang notes are less diffuse, the jasmine is one tone down but they are there, blooming, enchanting, heavenly embracing and reminding us why Chanel was so beautiful in the first place. Make it less powdery, more transparent.
It feels like the first Chanel was created for Europeans only, and this version has to have a cleaner aura, so it will also seduce the New World. It is global, it is more Holywood. No wonder Chanel has Audrey Tatou campaigning for Nº5 and Nicole Kidman for Eau Premiere - it is not a coincidence!
The thing is, it really worked for me! Since my grandmother wore Chanel Nº5 (more accurately - bathed herself in Chanel), to my point of view, wearing it was not retro or vintage, like we say today. It was OLD. It would feel like I took something old from her closet, put on myself and tried to be her. So Chanel stayed in my childhood memories (good ones because my grandmother was nice) and that is all.
Wearing Eau Premier is a treat. I am actually wearing Chanel Nº5 without having to match it with the cashmere twin sets and the funky gray-to-violet hair, and I don't care what people say!


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