Saturday, November 13, 2010

Financial Crisis - Consumers behavior - PART I - fragrances launches for men

The collapse of the Housing Bubble (2005 - 2006) was the start of what was called, the biggest global financial crisis since the Great Depression of the 30's. A liquidity shortfall in the US Banking system, resulted in the collapse of large financial institutions. The crisis developed in a fast pace and spread into a world wide economical shock. People lost their jobs, they houses and their wealth. 

Researches found that the fear for the future would have a great impact in consumer's behavior post crisis. Peter Cooper this year offered insights regarding emotional and mental consumers behavior towards the Global Financial Crisis, and the whole of marketing post crisis. According to him, consumers want to go beyond the crisis to a new reality.  In his research he found out that consumers are moved for more sophisticated emotions, a new morality and a new intelligence.[Cooper, J 2010, ‘Money can’t buy me love’, Market Leader, Issue 47, p30-33 (On-line Ebschost)]. Other trends have stated that the consumer post crisis is looking for simplicity. They are questioning their beliefs and attitudes. There is a growth of the sense of responsibility towards conscious consumption. The fact is, advertising now has a great window opportunity to recreate this new reality, to reinvent the new consumer's needs. And they are doing so!
Knowing that the downsize of societies' way of life causes stress, depression and a feeling of lack of satisfaction. The provider is no longer able to provide (knocked on the nuts and ego), wives that had left their jobs to raise kids, or simply because the husband was doing so well, are back to work to bring the dough  home. 

We are a society ruled by the power of money. Our lifestyle is base on consumerism. We purchase goods and consuming material in excess of our basic needs. In our society the upper class tastes, lifestyles and preferences set the standard for all consumers, therefore, the less privileged seek the lifestyle of the rich and powerful. They strive to imitate the rich, the celebrities and the icons. People identify themselves with the products and services they consume.
In a nutshell, what we lack is the object of our desires. What we had gave us confidence. What we don't have anymore brought us uncertainty, fear and lack of self-esteem.
You no longer live in that fancy upper side of New York, you no longer attend to all social events, you no longer find yourself surrounded by women or friends. The money is gone! The world is no longer in your hands.

How to fill the needs of these consumers? How are they thinking? What are the objects of their desire?
A good example of a twist to fulfill the needs of emerging realities is the new trend in beverages. Although energy drinks are still selling well, the new trend now is  anti stress drinks, stress relief beverages, drinks positioning around calming and relaxing. Consumers are looking for beverages to help enhance and uplift the mood. We need to calm down!!
So how does the Beauty market profit from this new reality? How does the market fight the lack of greens? By offering what you don't have but is desperate to conquer!!
According to Mintel in the beginning of this month, the new factor that is influencing women's decision in buying fragrances is MOOD. 54% of female fragrance buyer's decision is based on how she feels wearing the perfume.
So, you add one to another and you have the answer. We want to fill powerful again. We want to feel in control of our lives. We want to feel rich again.
The mass production industry of perfume in 2008 started to offer men power and self-confidence.

photo credit:

Advertising seeking to increase and to persuade men to buy fragrances focused on power, money, recognition, success. Using crowd manipulation, brands used techniques to influence the desires. (Crowd manipulation is the ability to get what you want through attraction). If you want your social influence back, if you want your manhood back, if you want to regain your power - buy this/that fragrance!
Many fragrances brought strong messages by even bringing to the shape of the flacon elements associated to power (a gold bar by Pacco Rabanne) and to strength (metal bars for excercising by Biotherm and dumbel (by Davidoff).

Check here some of the launches of the last 2 years:

Force EDT by Biotherm (2010) - "The strength to achieve the extraordinary", "Live stronger".
Champion EDT by Davidoff (2010) - "The strength of Champions", "The fragrance for men who know what they want: to stay right at the top".
The One Gentleman EDT by D&G (2010) - "For refined gentlemen who are in command of every situation".
Bulgari Man EDT by Bulagari (2010) - "The scent for a sophisticated man, who is both strong-willed and creative".
True Force EDT by Avon (2010) - "Experience the nature's true force".
L'Eau au Masculin EDT by Lolita Lempicka (2010) - "water - the symbol of strength and purity is the source of inspiration".
Honor for men EDT by Express (2009) - "Dedicate to a bold, confident, edgy, raw man".
Only The Brave EDT by Diesel (2009) - "Brave is about seizing opportunities and making a difference", "Only The Brave boasts the determination and the strength to overcome adversity and make a mark".
Power DT by 50 cent (2009) - "Power is a way of life".
Attitude EDT Extreme by Armani (2009) - "Introducing masculine power with elegance".
IKON EDT by Zirh (2008) - "A distinguish fragrance for the confident and masculine man".
1 Million EDT by Pacco Rabane (2008) - "Gold represents power, wealth, luxury, durability".
I am the King EDT by Sean John (2008) - "to empower the modern man to take on the soul of a king and conquer his biggest dreams".
The most iconic video of this trend is the one by Pacco Rabane for the fragrance One Million EDT - click HERE to watch. Pacco offers you a bag of money, a sport car, a woman at the snap of your fingers!

Article to be continued soon, with fragrances that offers the regain of power to seduce.
Following the trend of seeking for simplicity, we will bring fragrances that offered a simple, relaxing, cool, easy going world.

Meanwhile, have fun with Liza Minelli and Joel Gray, in their amazing performance at Cabaret, with the song " Money Makes the world go around". Click HERE for the video provided by youtube.

For the lyrics, if you wish to follow it and have more fun:
Money makes the world go around
...the world go around
...the world go around.
Money makes the world go around
It makes the world go 'round.
A mark, a yen, a buck or a pound
...a buck or a pound
...a buck or a pound.
Is all that makes the world go around
That clinking, clanking sound...
Can make the world go 'round
Money money money money
Money money money money
Money money money...
If you happen to rich
And you feel like a night's entertainment
You can pay for a gay escapade.
If you happen to be rich and alone
And you need a companion
You can ring (ting-a-ling) for the maid.
If you happen to be rich
And you find you are left by your lover,
And you moan and you groan quite a lot
You can take it on the chin,
Call a cab and begin to recover
On your 14-karat yacht! WHAT!?
Money makes the world go around
...the world go around
...the world go around.
Money makes the world go aroung
Of that we both are sure...
*rasberry sound* on being poor!
Money money money money
Money money money money
Money money money...
When you haven't any coal in the stove
And you freeze in the winter
And you curse to the wind at your fate.
When you haven't any shoes on your feet,
Your coat's thin as paper,
And you look 30 pounds underweight
When you go to get a word of advice
From the fat little pastor,
He will tell you to love evermore.
But when hunger comes to rap,
rat-a-tat rat-a-tat at the window
*knock knock* (at the window)
Who's there? (hunger) oh, hunger!!
See how love flies out the door...
For, money makes the world go around
...the world go around
...the world go around.
Money makes the world go 'round
The clinking, clanking sound of...
Money money money money
Money money money money...
Get a little, get a little
Money money money money...
Mark, a yen, a buck or a pound,
That clinking, clanking, clunking sound,
Is all that makes the world go 'round,
It makes the world go 'round! 


Henrique said...

I confess that male fragrances launches have been lately more of words, concept, advertisings, than real juices. We have a crisis in the fragrance world, but it's not one of money - the industry has recovered quite well. It's a crisis of taste and talent, with pointless creations that even care to be techinically good. With this other crisis, the past seems more and more interesting and worth of my money. I cannot care in general for the nonsense launches that keeps poping year after year.

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

can I be very frank? The industry is selling exactly what the public wishes for. That is why they have a huge marketing & research department.
If we do not buy, if we come forward, than maybe, fragrances will begin to improve.
Check Octavians blog and his letter to perfumers. It is pretty much a manifesto that should had gone public on the streets of Paris.

Henrique said...

I have my doubts if it's what realy what the public wants, or if the public is not so aware of his real needs and is more easy to be fooled by celebrities launches, faux-sexy advertisements and the ideia of uniqueness in a crowd of people that wears the same fragrance as you. I do think that the industry has to be careful, because it's possible that someday the public changes, start to perceive that it has been fooled all this years and reduce his spending with fragrances.
I also think that's quite revolting that you ignore a part of the population that has money, a exquisite taste and don't really care about so many launches and advertisment. In times of financial crises, i see that you have to be flexible to draw money from both publics. And it's not what it seems to be happening, unfortunately.

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

Dearest Rick- massive production fragrances are not for the select group you mentioned.
of course there are people with a great sense of style and good taste, such as yourself. But like les exclusifs, les privées, les limitées!
You don't need to care about so many launches as a consumer, but as a blogger one can publish his or her satisfactions and disappointments.
Beijos darling.

M said...

An excellent piece, Simone; as always very thought-provoking. Particularly striking: Your list of 10-12 men's fragrances makes the point so well that "power", "force", "champion" etc. are all states of being the marketing people -- and so many men themselves -- feel worth striving for in life and in fragrance. Too bad so many men have such limited horizons and play the marketers' game perfectly. I'm not saying I've never been influenced by good marketing, good packaging, etc., but I'm happy I've never cared about what "a guy should wear", and concentrated on what I should wear.
Looking forward to more here!

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

Dear Michael,
You are so right. Even I cannot say I was never a victim of marketing. I am positive sure I am.
One example is relating to Andy Tauer fragrances. there are such a buzz about his perfumes. So many people advertising that his fragrances are amazing.
The truth is: only 02 of his fragrances are real masterpieces. Vetiver Dance and Lonestar Memories, which i reviewed here and gave many many stars.
Although he is a great perfumer, all the rest of his fragrances are boring. I once gave a lot of high lights to him, influenced by media.
As I know you by now, you have a very defined idea about who you are and what you like. I think you will never have trouble to look for fragrances that are really expressing your amazing personality.
Thank you once again for your opinion dear, XX

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