Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Love by Kilian - Pretty perfumes review 02

Breve em português
Dedicate to I.F the sweetest German lady I know!
Launch: 2007
Perfumer: Calice Becker
Inspiration: Marshmallow
Description by the brand: A pure sensual treat
Description by + Q Perfume Blog: SWEET, PRETTY, STICKY, NARGILA TREAT
Olfactive notes: Neroli, bergamot, pink pepper, coriander. Absolutes of vanille, ciste labdanum, jasmine, iris and orange flower & water. Rose, rose concrete, honeysuckle, caramelized sugar, civet and white musk.
Sillage: good - medium
Fixation: good
Rating: ✪✪✪✪ - where:
✪✪✪✪✪ - Nathalie W.? Audrey H.?
✪✪✪✪ - Penelope Pitstop?
✪✪✪ - Mary Poppins burning marsh?
✪✪ - Maybe if you smiled more... hummm...
✪ - wearing pink does not mean that you're pretty!
From the collection Les Ingénues, Love EDP By Kilian is a controversial fragrance. Some called it youthful, childish, overpriced, extremely sweet, while others just shouted at me: Did you smoke nargila??
Indeed it is sweet (check my sweet tooth chart for fragrances by clicking HERE) and it has a touch of naivité, and a pink-ish marshmallow kind of prettiness, and also smells like nargila molasses, all at once. One certainly feel pretty and edible (which it is kinda kinky LOL) wearing it.
What is also controversial about this fragrance is the fact that the brand published the formula of the creation. I have never seen this before.
Fresh opening of bergamot & neroli? It stars sweet and it will be sticky witty till the very end. It will have 2 seconds of citrus effect, and it will jump right into the neroli, pink pepper and coriander trio. A delicious flowery, orange-spicy note. Feminine and delicate, with a lot of fun.
The pepper is very subtle and you will find it between layers of neroli, a Middle Eastern note that I love so much and also used to enhance flavor and aroma in marshmallows. (Orange flower water, neroli and caramelized sugar is what makes this perfume smeels like marshmallows).
Coriander is pale but it is there, giving a slightly soapy effect. As if you were actually eating soap (don't laugh, if you were a child once, you know the taste of soap!! We all tried at least once...).
By Kilian fragrances are considered expensive, but we have has to consider the use of many absolutes - something you will find only in niche brands. And because they are expensive...brands have the excuse to charge for more.
Honeysuckle brings a jasmine, honey-ish touch to the main accord - one more sweet tooth note to make it more sticky than already is. And the choice of using Sambac Absolute for jasmine notes is also wanting the sirupy sweetness of the flower. Rose and iris are under-liners in this giant bouquet.
Sugars melting with flowers and sticky labdanum resins and warm vanillas reminds of molasses for nargila.
One can fly right away to an alley of Akko shuk (Israel), arabs playing cards and smoking nargila with a sip of coffee and cardamom or to Dado beach in Haifa, and smell the fragrant tobacco being smoked by young Israelis.
If don't know what is nargila I will explain - Nargila or hookah is an instrument to smoke tobacco. You smoke the tobacco through a water pipe. It is a Middle Eastern fever and a must have treat in arab cafés. As beautiful as it is - nargilas are pieces of art; and as fragrant as it is - it is still tobacco and it can give you cancer just like smoking cigarettes, cigars, pipes etc... (my advice is, don't try it, as exotic as it my look to you).
Akko shuk
Maximum if we still want to relate to nargila - we can imagine a new episode of The Perils of Penelope Pitstop, with her being kidnapped by the Bully brothers dressed in kafiahs, being tied up near a giant electric wood saw while The Hooded Claw, dressed like an arab, is smoking nargila. Fantastic nostalgia. Also mentioned by others, when speaking of this perfume - a nostalgic perfume without being old fashioned.
Spray Love EDP By Kilian on yourself and you will become Penelope Pitstop, with her pretty pinky childish-sexy look. This perfume is as sweet, pretty and annoying as she is. Yes, so sweet, so pretty, so naive, so girlie, so bling bling, and soooo annoying. And just like her cartoons, you get annoyed but you keep coming for more.
You can find Kilian fragrances at Essenza Nobile.


M said...

Simone -- Yet another first-rate review. You never do anything half-heartedly, do you? Well, that separates the many good blogs from the brilliant ones, and obviously yours belongs to the latter category, I'm happy to say.
About the scent: Indeed -- very unusual to have a company publish its own formula. But as I read somewhere (probably Chandler Burr), these formulas can be figured out anyway by using the right equipment, so what's the point in all the hush-hush, right?
Yes, and I love your description of this scent, and your reference to "feeling edible", a feeling I always aspire to! :-) Even if this particular scent wouldn't be anything for me, I've tried a few Kilian frags that are really very good, e.g. "Straight to Heaven" and in particular "Cruel Intentions"; now talk about feeling edible...
Have a wonderful weekend, sweety.

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

Dear Michael,

No need to say your work is an inspiration to my life, right? ;-)

major XXXX

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