Friday, February 25, 2011

Beyond Love EDP By Kilian


Brand: By KIlian
Origin: France
Launch: 2007
Olfactive Director: Kilian Hennessy
Perfumer: Calice Becker
Gender: Feminine
Range: EDP
Olfactive family: Floral - Tuberose
Olfactive Notes: Coconut accord, Egyptian Jasmine Absolute, Tuberose Absolue, Tuberose Concrete, Green Tuberose accord, Tuberose petals accord, Ambergris accord, Tonkin Musk reconstructed.
Description by the Brand: " An incandescent aroma, with narcotic charms".
Description by + Q Perfume Blog: SWEET, TUBEROZILLA, FEMININE, PINK, washed laundry.
Silage: Great!
Fixation: Also great.
When to wear: Perfect for cold winter days, specially at night.
Could pair with: Vamp á NY
Rating: ✿✿✿
✿✿✿✿✿ - Above love
✿✿✿ - Beyond love
✿✿✿ - close to love
✿✿ - reminds me of love
✿ - what is there to love?

Where: Find all Kilian's fragrances at Essenza Nobile's website  - the sweet provider of this sample! And at the brand's website.
Sizes available: 30ml, 50ml refillable spray, 100ml & 280g Candle.
Price range: 45€ to 350€

Photo credit: Forrest & Kim Starr

Calice Becker chose a very comfortable path when designing this fragrance. Coconut and tuberoses - a pretty obvious combo that works in most of the times (Vamp á NY) but sometimes it doesn't (Cococabana). Called by Luca Turin a tuberose tuberose perfume and rated by the expert as a 4 star fragrance, I tend to agree that Beyond Love EDP By Kilian a Tuberozilla perfume. Sweet, mouthwatering and very sensual, Beyond Love is beyond any idea of a white floral, if you define beyond as "superior to".
Tuberoses are night blooming flowers believed to be native to Mexico and from the agave family (succulent and found in dry hot zones such as deserts). The Aztecs named it Bone Flower, the Indians call it Queen of the Night. Known as mythical by some, used as garlands by many, tuberoses are fragrant waxy white (pinkish) flowers with a hypnotic scent.

Photo credit:

To any Brazilian like me tuberoses and coconuts bring to my olfactive memories references to doing laundry. If you are not Brazilian you need further explanation: besides all the best technological products to do laundry, our people is used to use to the old (very old LOL) coconut soap. Coconut oils is has a bleaching action on fabrics (so it is good for white clothes and to remove stains) and it also works well as a fabric softener. Coconut soap always follows a good quality fabric softener (with a tuberose accent), and that results in an spectacular bloom when you open the washing machine door.
Far from being cruel or disrespectful to Kilian or Calice Becker, Beyond Love EDP top notes does smell to me like recently washed clothes. It is comforting in that aspect. It gives you a sense of something you know and you enjoy - to have well washed, well taken care clothes in the closet!
So Beyond Love EDP top notes is an invitation to do laundry, but it is also part of the brand's four chapters of Kilian's love themed perfumed series with Prelude to Love (an invitation), Love (don't be shy), Beyond Love (prohibited) and Love and Tears (surrender). 

Photo credit:

It does have sensual jasmine notes with an animal skin touch of ambergris and musk.
It is a bit naive ( a sweetness that it is almost adolescent),  but it comes with a naughtiness hidden there, somewhere between the top notes and the middle notes. A sexy lover waiting to savagely do laundry (pound and rub your clothes) in the middle of the night? 

Beyond Love EDP By Kilian is a pink naughty perfume. It is a "sex on the washing machine" sort of fragrance, or it could be a Naughty Doris Day perfume - the perfect house wife that one day decided to be a cabaret dancer!

More thoughts on tuberose perfumes:

When writing about tuberose perfumes I always wonder why some of them are classified as tuberose perfumes, but in fact they smell like gardenias; and why some gardenia fragrances  are in fact tuberose notes transformed? (like Annick Goutal's Gardenia Passion).

I can think of tuberose disasters like Poison by Dior, and the most elegant creation of Robert Piguet - Fracas.

Most recent tuberose fragrances launched:

I am happy that Histoires de Parfums has launched its Tuberose Trilogy with 03 fragrances - Tubéreuse 1 (Capricieuse - with a creative combination of saffron, iris, Daim and cacao) Tubéreuse 2 (Virginale - a gourmand scent with cherry, patchouli and vanilla) and Tubéreuse 3 (Animale - a unissex tuberose! With néroli, kumquat, prunes, tabac blond and immortelle). And if you ask me, they are worth evry penny and every drop!!!

Nuit de Tubereuse by L'Artisan Parfumeur is less fruity and more spicy-green with notes of cardamom, cloves, pink and black pepper, proving that a tuberose perfume does not need to be a tropical reference.

And a good advice about laundry: Never wash your dirty laundry in public!

Have fun with Bitter Sweet  with Dirty Laundry - youtube videos

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