Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Brothers in Scent - Midnight in Paris/Black Bulgari/Bois d'Argent/Exotic


Black Bulgari EDT (♥♥♥♥♥) - 1998Notes of bergamot, black tea, jasmine, cedar wood, sandal, leather, amber, musk, vanilla.

Bois D'Argent Cologne (♥♥♥♥♥) by Dior - 2004: Notes of benzoin, incense, leather, iris from Tuscany, myhrr, honey and vanilla.

Exotic EDP by Bodicea The Victorius (♥♥♥♥) - 2008: Notes of lavender, bergamot, linalyl acetate, African costus, White lily, rose, frankincense, ambergris and musk.

Midnight in Paris EDP by Van Cleef & Arpels(♥♥♥♥♥) - 2010: Notes of lemon, bergamot, rosemary, green tea, lily-of-the-valey, styrax, black tea, woody notes, tonka, benzoin and leather.

In 1998 Annick Ménardo (IFF) created a fragrance that would give fragrances a new look: the urban concept. The perfume had a burned note of rubber combined with a powdery-flowery accord and a woody wrap up.The burned nuance came from toasted black tea. It is very discrete, almost transparent which brings the idea that one has to come closer to enjoy this luxury. (For a detailed review, click HERE). One of my favorite perfumes, it is a concept fragrance that is wearable. 
In 2004 the perfumer created for Dior a similar concept: Bois D'Argent.  Also a woody transparent fragrance, but with suede undertones. Less flowery, more amber- y, this fragrance has something that Black Bulgari does not have: IRIS. 
Still in my opinion, very hip and urban (and here the urban concept comes from the cement-gray note of Iris). Very delicate, and like Black Bulgari, also a "come closer & smell me" fragrance, it has an almond-y touch that is very rich. While Black Bulgari is drier and more powdery, Bois D'Argent is creamier and velvetier.

Four years later, niche brand Boadicea The Victorious launches Exotic, a fragrance that has the aura of Black Bulgari, but with a woody - incense note that is the core of the perfume.   Top notes of lavender and bergamot are very distance from Black Bulgari, but somehow this fragrance does remind me of it. It feels like if Black Bulgari was spiced up and received a more mysterious touch. Not my favorite from the list, due to the fact that I am not particularly fond of incense. Also you don't need to come close to appreciate this fragrance. The diffusion is stronger. Less urban, more Middle Eastern, but it is a nice perfume too.

Last and today my best (probably after wearing a few times I will decide that nothing beats Black Bulgari), comes the newest launch of Van Cleef and Arpels in 2010: Midnight in Paris, with a urban concept too. A night in a French city - Paris, at midnight. 
The night concept is the traditional one, brought by sensual notes. The top notes are more citric acid than Bulgari's due to the lemony touch, also freshier with rosemary and green tea. The flowery bouquet is way more intense, therefore more feminine than Black Bulgari. While Balck Blgari is drier, more powdery and less vibrant, Midnight in Paris has more light and more sheer. Both have the smoked tea accent combined to wood and vanilic tones. Both have the dry pencil note that I love very much.

So, to makes things easier for you when choosing which one fits you best:

The most feminine (although sold as a masculine fragrance): Midnight in Paris EDP
The woodier: Exotic EDP
The Most powdery: Black Bulgari EDT
The most ambery: Bois D'Argent Cologne
The most flowery: Midnight in Paris EDP
The fresher and most aromatic: Midnight in Paris EDP
Most exclusive: Black Bulgari EDT
The spicier: Exotic EDP


In a scale of woodiness: Exotic, Black Bulgari, Bois D'Argent, Midnight in Paris
In a scale of powderness: Black Bulgari, Bois D'Argent, Midnight in Paris, Exotic
In a scale of flower intensity: Midnight in Paris, Black Bulgari, Bois D'Argent, Exotic.

In my scale of preference: 
Black Bulgari, Bois D'Argent, Midnight in Paris, Exotic.

For another article with sisters in Scent: HERE
For another article with brother's in Scent:HERE

For the most beautiful video by Dire Straits: Brothers in Arms - CLICK HERE


Unknown said...

Great comparisons. I love Bulgari Black too.

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

Thank you!

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