The Holiday Season is around the corner!

Despite all the macroeconomic pressure of the global economy recession, not only Christmas shopping started earlier this year, but according to a survey from Citigroup, shoppers in the USA will actually spend 2 to 4% more than they did last year.

Although combat shopping (LOL) hasn't started yet, at least not here in Brazil, the malls are already full. The bells are already jiggling, the X-mas carols are already everywhere, and people are already counting days to leave for the summer holidays. Where are you going this year? Do you have plans for new years Eve? We are still in the first half of November, but Brazilians are already packing their bags.

What is the big rush? Shops are pushing consumers to start to buy early to guarantee that they will succeed to sell all their stock, exactly because we are in a recession. The earlier you start, the longest the opportunity to sell what you have.

I also decided to start posting my Holidays specials earlier this year. I think there will be some need to strategizing x-mas shopping in order not to avoid this crazy X-mas frenzy and compulsiveness for shopping that seems to spreads like some epidemic disease as the holidays are approaching.

So here it is my dear readers, let the fun begin when the Jingle bell starts to rock!

KODO - The art of Japanese incense

KODO
Photo credit: Ikeda Koson

Since I have already discussed by most beloved fragrance notes (iris, patchouli, amber and leather), I am now inclined to overcome my limitations and to expand my horizons, by unfolding the secrets of notes that I have been neglecting for years due to one particular reason - I am not fond of them. Incense fragrances were never my choice of purchase, but I confess that some perfumes that I love do have incense in their accords, and sometimes they are the small touch that makes all the difference; but buying a perfume where incense is the main inspiration, added in large doses is just something I could never bare.

I think the best way to overcome my dislikes is to learn more about them. I feel that once I plunge into something that is not familiar, with an opened mind, things might take another direction. I also believe that life is less stressful, more vibrant and far more positive when we give things a second chance. When we try to learn the origin of things and we look at the world with less critical lens.

With this philosophy in mind, I will start a journey into KODO - the ancient Japanese incense ceremony. 
The history of KODO goes back to the Muromachi period (1336 - 1573) even prior to the Tea Ceremony. Before it became a ceremony, KODO was a social activity, a game by which players learn to "listen" to the fragrances. They are also contests to try to identify varieties of aromas of aloeswood, or RIKKOKU.
KODO is also one of the 03 major classical arts along with sado ( Tea Ceremony) and kado (Ikebana - flower arrangement).

  AWASEKO

Soradaki is the Japanese word for "burning for pleasure" when incense was burned over charcoal buried in ash. Kneaded incense, called Awaseko, or resinous woods such as sandalwood or aloeswood were heated instead. KODO is a variation of Soradaki, where a plate with mica is placed on top of the ash above a buried charcoal, releasing no smoke because the woods are heat at a low temperature, but giving off their fragrance in a very subtle way.
I found a list of the varieties of Rikkoku (agarwood) for KODO games. They consist in passing the incense around. Players need to "listen" to the fragrance, to appreciate its beauty and than try to guess the materials of the incense, describing the fragrances and classifying their qualities.

It may seem to be all about the sense of smell, but the secret of kodo is in "listening." The participants don't "smell" (the Japanese verb 'kagu') the incense or fragrant wood, but rather "listen" (kiku) to it, opening up not so much their nasal passages as their heart and spirit. 

Rikkoku means "The six countries of agarwood"  and since it is pretty much in fashion these days, I think it is interesting to list them:


Kyara - a gentle smell with a touch of bitterness. The fragrance is described as an aristocrat with elegance and gracefulness.
Rakoku - sharp and pungent smell like sandalwood, reminding an warrior.
Manaka - light, enticing and it changes like the mood of a woman.
Manaban - sweet and peasant.
Sumotara - it is sour but it can be mistaken by Kyara - it is a servant dressed like an aristocrat.
Sasora - cold and sour, can also be mistaken by Kyara and it reminds of a monk.


The qualities to classify the agarwood are:
Sweet (resembles the smell of honey or concentrated sugar), sour (resembles the smell of plums or acid fruits), hot (resembles the smell of hot pepper when heated), salty (lingering smell of the water from the ocean or seaweed being dried on the fire), and bitter (resembles the smell of bitter herbal medicines when heated).

Incense trail with gunpowder

photo credit: incensemaking.com

Today in Japan there are only two school (Oiye ryu and Shino -ryu) teaching the art of KODO, which used to be mastered in 30 years  - yes darlings, being a Japanese master of anything takes always ages! Japanese are obsessed with perfectionism!

I found a 12 minutes documentary by Janus Avivison where you will be able to watch an entire ceremony of KODO. It also provides interesting historical backgrounds.

So let's watch it to continue this journey:

TO BE CONTINUED...

Pacific Perfumes - Natural Solid Perfumes - Brand & fragrances review

Last Sunday (OCT.30) at Perfume Talks (my fragrance discussion group in facebook) we were discussing about fragrances that somehow bring the notion of holidays, of relaxation  and even the notion of exotic lands. We spoke about fragrances having the magic power to transport you in a second to the dolce far niente of vacancies, or delicious idleness in English. At one point of this discussion, I realized that the notion of EXOTIC is different to each of us, depending where we are located in the world. For us Brazilians, who live in a very tropic land, exotic could be the icy lands of Finland, the ancient Chinese temples, the spicy foods and incensed temples of India, the crowded and loud shouks of Morocco and Istanbul. Exotic yes, but not the typical dolce far niente kind of vacancies. So where to go?

I kept this thought in my mind. What could be possibly exotic for us Brazilians, but still bring the notion of relaxation, of sunny weathers, of vacations? Thailand? Tahiti? Mauritius? Too obvious isn't it? Then I got a very nice package this week and all became very clear to me: New Zealand. Why not? Amazing Nature, indigenous people, weird sign language, close to Australia...that sounds pretty exotic no?

Brazilians know very little about New Zealand. We know it is an island (or two?) so far that we need to cross the globe to get there. We also know that they have exquisite natural resources such as glaciers, volcanos, lakes, parks and sandy beaches. We know that this country is the synonym of adventure with canoeing and bungy jumping, and that holidays in new Zealand involve a lot of wine tasting and walking barefoot in the middle of an urban city.

But the distance between Brazil and New Zealand is approximately 120,000km. Yes my friends, Aoteaora (how natives call their land, which means land with long white clouds) is really really far. 

Well, for those of us who could not make it this weekend, I propose we open my package to discover fragrances inspired by the beauty of Aotearoa and the South Pacific. A magical fragrant imaginary trip to New Zealand, starting when I open a beautifully crafted wood pot with the solid perfumes designed by Pacific Perfumes, mixing their local botanic essences of flowers, fruits, resins and woods.   


I propose a fragrant journey to New Zealand's  starting...now!

Photo credit: Pacific Perfumes

Pacific Perfumes is a brand created by Francesca Brice and Kate JasonSmith, translating the uniqueness and vibrant vibe of New Zealand, into exquisite 100% natural botanic solid perfumes and soaps. The brand offers 02 collections of solids: The Artisan and The original Ranges.

FOREST OF FERNS - New Zealand has at least 200 types of ferns. Found in their forests forming the undergrowth beneath a dense canopy of evergreen trees. They are also found growing on tree trunks and branches along stream banks. The leaves of ferns are called fronds, and when they are young they are tightly coiled into a spiral. This shape is called Koru in Maori language and it is very popular motif in New Zealand's design.

Unfurling the majestic green freshness, this perfume comes with notes of lime, bergamot, basil, with an earthy touch of vetiver and a subtle flowery bouquet. It is herbal, tropical, zesty, slightly salty and very delicate perfume. It reminds me a bit of the scent of Tijuca Forest in Rio - with a jurassic touch to it, and it reminds me also a bit of Erik Kormann's July or 07. 
It travels through the forests of New Zealand and it settles down in a warm sand beach, relaxing barefooted and looking at the Pacific. It is exactly what I call " a fragrance of summer holidays".

Forest of Ferns is a delicious refreshing fragrance, that can be experienced all day long and a year round. It can also be shared by both genders at all ages.

I confess I was not so much into solids till I tried their perfumes. The base is creamy, and it feels very good to pass the finger and than spread it on the skin beneath the ear. It is a sensual ritual of perfuming I must say and I started to enjoy.

HULA LEI - A garland of jasmines and pandanus flowers so sublime, so erotic and so feminine that you can only think of making love in New Zealand's breathtaking landscapes. Petals of Rose Geranium bring a romantic touch to the fragrance, while vetiver again brings an earthy, slightly salty touch of tropical beaches.

Pandanus are used for handcrafted mats or jewelry boxes. The leafs are also used to bring flavor to rice, ice creams and curry dishes.

This is the most intense floral fragrance of the line, loosing only to LOVE THE MANGO - a very tropical fruity perfume.
Hula Lei is the fragrance that will bring flavor to our journey, it will bring exotic sensuality that does not have the notion of bronzed women from Bahia. 
You will think of tattooed New Zealanders...you will think of bottles and bottles of wine shared...love making in New Zealand kept in a wooden pot...


You can purchase Pacific Perfume at ESTELLANA, a very nice and reliable website :-)

TO BE CONTINUED...

The Visual, the Sound & the Scent - A VSS© fragrance review of M/MINK EDP by Byredo

URBAN ABSTRACT (2009) is a journey across the urban space. Architectural, abstract, and in some extent minimalist and also human, Urban Abstract shows how Nature also plays its hole in the understanding of the urban concept. Created and directed by multidisciplinary design Finnish - Japanese agency Musuta LTD, the digital art piece was commissioned by TV Nelonen - Channel 4 Finland, and won a Golden Lion in Cannes.

I came across with this video last year browsing VIMEO website. The black & white images somehow stayed in my mind for a long long time.

Last week I went for the 10th time to the book store to flirt with a book that I am weighting if to buy or not (it is rather expensive). It is a book about japanese artist Tokujin Yoshioka, one of my favorite urban designers of all times. His installation, projects and products are mostly mixing industrial materials interacting with Natural sources, such as water.

Today, smelling Byredo's M/Mink EDP for the first time Urban Abstract & Tokujin came back to my mind as fast as the tiny drops of the fragrance fell from the air, down sloping  on my skin. I though of cold materials such as glass, metal, concrete... seas of black ink on white snowy paths... breezy tiny molecules of Adoxal getting lost in gray fumes of incense, in Urban Abstract frames. Aldehydic surreal rains freezing, and turning into the snow flakes of Tokujin's installation for KARTELL. 

Photo credit: Tokujin Yoshioka

Photo credit: Tokujin Yoshioka

Urban Abstract is my definition of M/MINK EDP by BYREDO.

A fragrance with a minimalistic design, with notes of Adoxal, incense, patchouli leafs, cloves, honey and amber. An interaction of Nature inspired elements and urban movement.

The surprisingly interesting smell of ink - for us lawyers with ink pens fetiches, is like dying and being sent to heaven! It is a conceptual fragrance, but a perfectly wearable one. Which is hard to find these days.

One can ask why I din't include in my last article of fabrics - FUR since it is M/Mink. I think it is because it fits more to the urban concept than to the furry one.

The fragrance has a delicacy, a sensual touch of amber -y notes combined with honey.

Cloves are perceived only close to dry down and it is really gentle - so you won't have the scary eugenol dentist trauma experience.

Incense is explored in a very different way that we are used to. It is not mystical nor mysterious, but rather foggy and giving the idea of cold winter day to the fragrance.

M/Mink is not a perfume - it is a story told in liquid form. It is an urban experience. It travels to distant cold snowy lands, it travels to cold midnights in cosmopolitan cities such as Tokyo, NYC, Berlin and São Paulo. It travels to lawyers offices and courthouses and the libraries of Harvard. 

Photo credit: Tokujin Yoshioka

I think of myself, sitting on one of TY chairs...gazing the window...watching the rain falling on the pavement.

It is a perfume worth trying!

You will find BYREDO by clicking on the name at my dearest shop Essenza Nobile.

OBS:
All Visual credits are Musuta's LTD.
All photos and links and copyrights, trademarks and patents of Tokujin Yoshiota's works belong to the artist, and although I didn't have a previous authorization to publish - this is a declaration of love for his work.

Mister Marvelous EDP by Byredo - fragrance review

Photo credit: Christian Houtenbos

Swedish House Byredo has recently launched another masculine fragrance - Mister Marvelous. Artistic Director and owner Ben Gorman chose Dutch hairdresser Christian Houtenbos to be the face of his newest project. according to the NYT, Ben wanted to tell the story of a person that he has been admiring for a long time, and whose talent could be seen on the head of many famous people from the fashion world, such as Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Versace and Calvin Klein, to the music industry like Madonna and Grace Jones and Debbie Harry.

The funny thing about the hole deal is that the fragrance has the style of a classic cologne with a modern twist, but it was inspired by a coiffing star who created the punk half shaved - long top hairstyle or Grace Jones' flat top.

Well ladies and gentlemen, Mr. Houtenbos is today a man in his 60's  and no longer the rebel he was during the 70's/80's! One more thing about him - he certainly has adopted the classic lifestyle: he is married to the same woman since he was 19!!!

So it seems contradictable, it seems unexplainable, but in fact it does make sense. At least to me it does.

MISTER MARVELOUS EDP BY BYREDO

Photo credit: Byredo

So, what is Mister Marvelous? 

No doubt that it has a classic cologne style with notes of mandarine, neroli, green lavender, bamboo, black amber and white cedarwood, but the concentration is EDP, which is a hard thing to find in masculine fragrances, but not in this Swedish house. 

No doubt that it follows a green gardens, slightly flowery fragrance trend of the moment with refreshing notes of bamboo combined with neroli bloomings, but it also has a delicate tarty facet from the combination of neroli, amber and cedarwood.
But how to define it? How to describe it in a way that, someone who is not smelling the fragrance, could get the picture?
Well ...picture another Ben. Ben Barnes playing Dorian Gray.

Ben Barnes

Dorian Gray

This English actor is the very modern definition of Mister Marvelous! Nominated one of the best dressed British men by GQ Magazine, the actor is also a rock n' roller. He has been even compared to fashionista/music icon Brien Ferry when it comes to styling.

So here it is my readers: Mister Marvelous EDP is "a kind of a Dorian Gray" - a man so beautiful and so impeccably dressed, that you will excuse all his flaws. His perfectly shaved face and the perfect tie with a diamond or ruby pin will hide his mundane thoughts.

He is Ben Barnes. With a white t-shirt, a black scarf, and a body to die for! He is masculine, but somehow he has delicate lines that is also a bit feminine. He is head spinning. A fresh look that brings tarty desires to the mind!! He my Mister Marvelous!


You can find Byredo Mister Marvelous EDP in 02 sizes - 100ml ($220) and 50ml (145). You can also find this fragrance at Essenza Nobile's website.