Monday, July 16, 2012

Perfumes & Shoes

Feet are many times linked to a source of bad sweaty stinky smells, caused by bacterias that find in our shoes, a perfect place to live. They build "summer villas" in our snickers, or "winter cottages" in our leather boots. 
Feet are also objects of obsession, for fetishists and fashionistas. I dare you to show me a metropolitan woman who doesn't LOVE shoes! If this person ever existed, she probably has never seen/felt authentic leather shoes. 
We all know that fashion has a close relationship to fragrances. But shoes? As strangely that may sound shoe stylists and shoe brands are launching perfumes.  I say strangely because it is really hard to detach from shoes, the idea of sweaty smells (when we are speaking of smells and odors, of course).
But let's think of the glamour of shoes, Shoe design bringing this accessory to a state of "art to wear", and let's explore this trend of "perfume by shoe designer" that has been showing up the last couple of years.

“See a shoe and Pick it up and all day long you'll have Good Luck.” — Andy Warhol

In 2008 Bond Nº9 launched a fragrance called Andy Warhol Lexington Avenue. It was the third perfume of the Andy Warhol collection, a chypre-floral perfume named after the location where Andy had his first apartment, with a limited edition bottle with a vintage shoe illustration by the artist. The bottle was also decorated with 04 silver shoes pendants. The fragrance composition brought notes of cardamom, cypress, fennel, iris, creme brulée, peonies, patchouli and sandalwood.

Two years later, in 2011, famous shoe designer Jimmy Choo debuted his first fragrance. The perfume, also a modern floral chypre, was named after the brand and offered a combination of caramel toffee and tiger orchid. The fragrance brought femininity and sensuality, just like the exquisite high heels of the brand.

At that time, co-founder and chief creative officer of the brand Tamara Mellon explained that it seemed to her the next natural step of the brand, since fragrance is also a very important accessory in a woman's wardrobe. As Murano glass was used in some chandelier's in the first store of the brand, Tamara wanted the fragrance bottle to have this as a reference. The packing came with a pink python leather illustration -  a very popular leather in luxurious shoe design.

In 2010 shoe guru Robert Vivier launched a collection of 05 fragrances. 
Inés de Fressange, the ambassador of the Vivier fragrances, explained that the brand decided to create perfumes with style and personality; and she also declared that they used high quality precious materials, just like in their couture collections. L'Iris, Le Neroli, L'Ambre, Le Santal and La Rose are all said to be heady but not excessive. Some commented that they are not exactly inspiring perfumes. Developed by nose Ramy Mekdachi (Israeli?) it is a collection of single notes, that was also an on going trend also in the same year. So, as the mantra "luxury is to choose not to choose", proclaimed by the brand...I think we choose not to choose these perfumes at all...

Vicent Camuto, the lord of shoes and accessories has also embraced the fragrance market when he launched his self-titled fragrance Vicent Camuto EDP.

This first fragrance by Vince Camuto is said to be a contemporary, sexy and sophisticated perfume. The top notes are enriched with notes of rum absolute and osmanthus nectar. The heart is opulent and floral, composed with Bulgarian rose and night blossoming jasmine, enhanced with leather notes. The base incorporates vanilla, absolute,  patchouli, hot Brazilian amber and leathery musk (?). The flacon has a Baroque appeal...and according to the brand, "it is VC's  first affordable & accessible luxury"...sounds like his shoes were very expensive...but in fact they are not really a big deal...

Love Fury by Nina West, made in collaboration with inter Parfums ( a company developing many of the shoe brand's fragrances), also took the fetishist obsession for shoes, and transformed  a fruity-floral fragrance into a charming iconic stiletto fetish.

The heel actually pierce the perfume, slipping into the juice. Very sexual, very feminine, and very commercial.

Francophiles worth her sel is familiar with Repetto, whose chic ballerina slips are favored by Parisians worldwide. Now, the 64-year-old dance company is preparing its first fragrance. What to expect from a brand known best for its chic flats? Philippe Benacin, chairman and CEO of Interparfums SA, says the partnership between his fragrance company and Repetto will draw on the world of dance, promising a "poetic, glamorous and ultra-feminine" line of scents. (edited from Bellasugar - Australia).

In 2011, Aldo, the Canadian shoes & accessories brand launched a collection of fragrances, said to be defined by colors: yellow, red, blue with white bottles, and red and yellow with black bottles. Check the video for more info.

Back in perfume history, in the 70's Charles Jourdan created his first fragrance. The collection today has in total 8 fragrances. The last launch was in 2004 - Charles Jourdan The Parfum, an oriental woody fragrance, with gourmet notes of mango, peaches and almonds, with a pink futuristic bottle.

Of course we can't finish this article by mentioning Nike, Reebok, Adidas, and all these sports brands making athletic shoes that has launched their line of cheaper fragrances. 

Or our beloved Melissa, whose fragrance I had the pleasure to evaluate when it was about to be launched.

Unfortunately, the fragrance is not the same scent of the shoes, and it smelled like a cheap fruity bubblegum-y perfume (which is not cheap by the way; it is rather expensive). But it was a trend setter here in terra brazilis.

Fact is, shoes are fashion accessories, and fashion brands are looking for/expecting the 6 digits revenues from perfume sales kick in, so they can expand their names worldwide. You may not have USD6,395 to buy Louboutin Daffodiles, but you will be able to afford a fragrance signed by the shoe designer  - if he decides to launch one.

If you ask me, what I prefer...a pair of Chanel boots or a fragrance from the exclusive perfume collection Les Exclusifs... you know the answer already...and I am a shoe lover just like you!

1 comment:

Giancarlo said...

felice inizio settimana a te...ciao

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