Thursday, August 4, 2011

Chanel Nº19 Poudré - fragrance review

It is not a secret that I love powdery fragrances and that iris is my favorite note. That said, is it possible not to love the newest Chanel launch?
Chanel Nº19 Poudré is a flanker of the original fragrance launched by the brand in the 70's. The modern version is a part of Les Exclusifs de Chanel Jersey with notes of neroli, galbanum, jasmine, iris, white musk, vetiver and tonka beans. It is supposed to be another green-ish like many recent launches in the market, and in fact it is green for the first 05 seconds. A combination of green notes of galbanum with a mineral, gray, wet cement note that reminds me of Untitled by Margiela
The iris notes are fantastic, brilliant, amazing. Chanel's at its prime quality standards.
That said, the development of the fragrance made me wonder... first of all I have seen this before in Bois des Îles and in Chanel Nº5 Eau Premiere. It is like the Maison is taking fraction of their perfumes and developing new others with a slight difference, a new detail, a new dose, or emphasis in  one particular note. 
To be honest, if I have to choose between Chanel 19 Poudré and Premiere - I stick with Premiere. Secondly, in my opinion what is the real annoying facet of this fragrance is the creaminess of it. I hated it in Narciso Essence for women, I hated it here. This white musk creamy cleanness is just not for me.
Than I remembered that Ninfeo Mio by Annick Goutal was also a fragrance that annoyed me very much. I recall calling it a vanilla pudding that rolled of freshly cut grass. Chanel Nº19 Poudré is not a vanilla pudding, but a grey pudding that rolled on grass, and than rolled on avon facial cream.
I found out when wearing in Margiela that I don't like this green-ish bitter green thing of that made me dislike the fragrance at one point. Same thing found in Prada's Infusion d'Iris
I guess the problem with all these fragrances mentioned is in fact the green note, combined with creamy or pudding like scents. I just don't like it! But Chanel made my nose spin to the other side even more, by combining these two and adding the creamy white musk. That my friends made me run to the bathroom and wash the arm.
So what is not to like, I ask again...hum...almost everything, besides the iris. The lack of powdery accent promised in the name...
And I thought Chance Eau Tendre and Bleu were the only mistakes Chanel ever did...


Liam Moore said...

My first thought smelling Poudre was Untitled too. It's so oddly similar, but I couldn't put my finger on the similarity as well as you could - it's the bitter green note!

Thanks for clearing that up for me :)

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

Truth is, Margiela's does not contain avon face cream!

Carrie Meredith said...

I expected to love Poudre, and it's not bad by any means, I just feel nothing for it. Now that I've read your vivid (and accurate, in my opinion) review, I've got visions of grey pudding dancing in my head, and I'll never touch that sample vial again. Pretty sure of that.

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

One expects that after more than 4 decades they would come out with something incredible, but they did not and it is disappointing.
me too Carrie...I have this grey pudding vision and it won't go away!
Thank you for sharing your opinion, Simone

Henrique said...

I don't see Untittled here, but i see it linked with Hermes Hiris. I have to disagree on this with you, it's one where every detail seems carefully tuned to form a soft powdery aroma. I think it's quite unfair to compare it with Bleu and Eau Tendre as an mistake. But i do prefer Eau Premiere too.

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

Ok darling, we don't have to agree 100% of the time!

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