Monday, June 13, 2011

Vive La Gourmandise! Gourmet Perfumes!

In 1992 Thierry Mugler launched Angel, the iconic perfume that was created to evoke the tenderness of the momories of a childhood. The notes were sweet as a childhood memory must be. Caramels, chocolate, vanilla, honey, coumarine, associated with dewberries, red berries, bergamot, helional, hedione and patchouli opened a new olfactive family in perfumery - the oriental gourmets. The success can only be explained by the fact that we all have a sweet teeth and an uncontrolable urge now and than...
Truth is, we don´t need a fragrance to bring back our child memories, all it takes is to open a family album and take a look at the pictures, but Angel brought a warm sensation to fragrances that was broad and new. Mature ladies felt young wearing Angel. It had a emotional "botox" effect on them, and teenagers related to the fragrance as they relate to straberry scented gloss.
Since the early ages men used the nose as a tool for survival as  they smelled things to check for safety. Also looking into the history of perfumery, we acknowledge that the first colognes were composed by oils extracted from oranges, lemons, bergamots, citrons, aromatic herbs, and spices that were also found in the kitchen or in the perfumer's backyard. It is a fact that flavor (taste) and aroma (smells) are always complementing each other.
As gourmet fragrances became a must have in every woman's wardrobe, the fragrance houses began to produce more and more raw material to satisfy our "taste buds", such as pop corn, cotton candy, caramelized apples, marzipans, marmalades, etc...

This year Serge Lutens presents JEUX DE PEAU EDP, a daring gourmet note of toasts and butter. If you are surprised, I am not. As my new facebook friend and blogger, La gardenia nello ochiello, reminded me the other day that French cuisine is about 3 things: butter, butter and butter. We laughed about it, but in fact, Lutens gave French people what they love the most - buttery notes - an olfactive gourmandise that does not increase cholesterol levels!
Notes of this perfume are: roasted bread, licorice, immortelle, spices, apricot, sandalwood, amber, woody notes, incense, osmanthus.
A rich creamy buttery mouth watering fragrance that evokes brunches, French boulangeries and warm skin. 
You will find this fragrance at Essenza Nobile by clicking on the name of the fragrance above displayed.

Shalimar is a classic perfume launched in 1925 and it is a success until today. This timeless fragrance became a reference to oriental fragrances. By being the first fragrance composed by vanillin ethyl, the artificial molecule that smells like vanilla, I chose to add here also as a gourmet fragrance. Benzoin, Peru Balsam and opoponax reinforced the vanilla scent of the fragrance. There is a modern version of this perfume, Shalimar Parfum Initial, with the same spirit of the original, with vanilla, rose, iris, tonak beans, but fresher, with notes of bergamot (Less syrupy than the original).
Notes of this fragrance are: bergamot, mandarine, cedar, lemon, patchouli, jasmine, rose, orris, vanilla, benzoin, Peru Balsam and leather.
You will find this sensual gourmet fragrance at

A sweet pinkish macaroon-y fragrance with raspberry, grapefruit, pear and plum, combined with delicate flower blooms and the candy like smell of violets. Very youthful, to the public who enjoys the strawberry scent and taste of lip gloss and The Gossip Girls (and the same preppy public of Chanel's Chance Eau Tendre).
Notes of this fragrance are: Grapefruit, raspberry, pear, plum, violets, apple bloom, jasmine, lychee (?), atlas cedar, clean white musk.
A promised happy pill. The same happiness you get by having Laudurée Macarrons!
You can fin this fragrance at your local perfume shop or MARC JACOBS.

It is so sweet that it is almost unbearable, and yet a very successful gourmet fragrance.
Lemons, limes, apple caramels, vanilla
Caramelized temptation, sticky fruity perfume. for very young ladies or more mature suffering from a nasty PMS. It is the sister of Angel - they both walked hand-in-hand to the nearest amusement park.
It contains a milky base that is quite strange.
Notes for this fragrance: Calabrese lemon, lime, red toffee apple, vanilla infusion, moonflower, peony petal, apple tree wood, cotton musk.
You will find this perfume at Nina Ricci website or the nearest perfume shop.

Paris Premières Roses by YSL is a spring version of the original Paris, launched this year. A rosy syrupy perfume. Another modernization of a classic, for ladies with an urge to sin in the kitchen.
Notes for this fragrance are: Peonies, Little Dog rose, freesia, orange flowers, muguet, musk, sandalwood.
This is a limited YSL spring Edition, so check YSL website for availability.

It is endorsed now by the newest America's sweetheart and oscar winner, Miss Nathalie Portman. The fragrance is classic, sweet, fruity, sensual, gourmet and pink. For anyone who loves caramelized popcorn, this is definitely the treat!
The notes for this fragrance are: Mandarin, strawberry leafs, violet, jasmine, caramel popcorn, wild strawberry sorbet, musk and patchouli.
If Natalie has a Frenchie sensual look by being naked and wearing a ribbon, maybe this is what Dior is promising - another gourmet, girlie, pretty fragrance... I think I liked the advertising with the balloons better...
Find this fragrance at your nearest perfume store or at DIOR's website.

I do like gourmet fragrances, but I think they have to be very sophisticated, or else it is just one more get-cavity-perfume.

My ideal gourmet fragrance are mostly fruity chypres, like Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel.
I also enjoy A*Men Pure Coffee by Thierry Mugler - with coffee, chocolate and plum notes. Also Bond Nº9 So New York with Mirabelle, expresso and chocolate notes.
Iris Ganache by Guerlain - the most beautiful combination of notes of iris and gourmet notes chocolate and vanilla.
Tarty fragrances such as Poopoopidoo by Ego Facto and Scale aux Marquise by Dior,  or almond-y fragrances such as Scale a Portofino by Dior.

What is your favorite sweet treat? 


Henrique said...

I have the impression that you I'll love the gourmand Aroma of Pure Havane :) I'll bring you a sample next time we see each other.
I love so much gourmand fragrances that it's hard to pick a few ones. But, since we have to choose ones, i'd pick one that matches the gourmand part with a ambered floral and makes it more complex - Miroir des Envies from Thierry Mugler.
Also, my dear friend, have you already tried Pistachio Ganache from Payards and Lann Ael from Lostmarch? The first has a creamy, pistachio chocolate aroma and the second one has a milky cerealic aroma - both delicious!

+ Q Perfume Blog said...

You are making me hungry!!! Pistacchio is such a nice nut isn't it? Pure Havane made me is true. I loved your review...funny thing is....I commented in more than one review and they it possible?

Henrique said...

Are you sure? I remember that i approved the comments and commented after you. I'll have to check and see what happened...

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