Thursday, July 29, 2010

Nuda by Nasomatto - fragrance review

NUDA BY NASOMATTO
Nuda Perfume Extract by Nasomatto - review
Launch: 2010
Perfumer: Alessandro Gualtieri
Gender: Feminine
Olfactive family: Floral
Olfactive notes: Jasmines
Description by others sites: "Nuda is the latest creation in Alessandro Gualtieri's project Nasomatto. The fragrance invites you to undergo the unexpected tranquility of giving up oneself without concern for boundary, and to sense the hazy intuition of a depth that undoes distance. It’s a result of a quest to find a vanishing point in nature, the translucence of our senses, nude desire. It is Alessandro Gualtieri's intention through the project Nasomatto to share his personal passion for perfumes and enhance your awareness of the impact of your olfactory senses. It's what Alessandro does, thinking up raw materials, situations and accords that he would like to have available as perfumes."
Description by + Q Perfume Blog: DOLL SMELL, FEMINE, SURPRISING
Silage: good
Fixation: good
Rating: ✿✿✿✿
Where:
✿✿✿✿✿ - I would undress to get one if necessary!
✿✿✿✿ - A DOLL RABLE!
✿✿✿ - yes, plastic...but naked??
✿✿ - I don't play with dolls anymore!
✿ - plastic doll from sex shop, go get naked by yourself!
You will find all Nasomatto fragrances at Essenza Nobile (click on Nasomatto to get to the site).
JASMINE
There are more than 200 species of Jasmine worldwide. Did you know that?? WOW! God gave us a lot of gifts huh? (Jasmine means "a gift from God").
Jasminum Sambac comes mostly from the Philippines, India and Sri Lanka and it is important in wedding ceremonies, used as an adornment (corsages and crowns), as a welcoming gift (garlands) and drank as tea. They are strongly scented flowers, with an indolic, animalistic hypnotic effect.
Jasmine grandiflorum, or Spanish Jasmine, is also widely used in many perfume compositions. It is less hypnotic, more subtle, but sweeter-frutier, and known to have calming and aphrodisiac properties.
Jasmine in perfumery can be used in the form of oil, concrete and absolutes. Sometimes they are very dense, very sweet and very narcotic; sometimes they are greener. Loved by perfumers and not by their pockets, Jasmine is one of the most expensive note in perfumery.
Nuda by Nasomatto is a very strong jasmine perfume.
It starts with a whiff of a note of Jasmine that reminds me summer nights in a friend's farm, in Brazil. Sitting after dinner outside at the porch, looking to the emptiness of the horizons, the stars blinking on the sky (promising another sunny day in the next morning)... and those beautiful and narcotic fragrance of the jasmines growing insanely, and spreading all over the place...made many summer nights, scented pictures to be forever remembered! They also have planted the climbing species - polyanthum, that would go from the porch to our bedroom windows. Simply heavenly.
So I closed my eyes, and my skin was smelling just like one of those happy nights from my childhood. Also back to my childhood, I found in Nuda, the doll hair note!
Introduced by my dearest friend Henrique, the doll hair, or simply doll note, is what it is: the smell of a plastic doll. (I hope he hasn't trademarked already this name, beacause I wish to use it a lot...).
Once the jasmine + pollen note spreads on the skin, it develops to a path that it is simply every little girl's dream - Doll land! That sweet, warm, delicious smell, hidden in my far far away (not that far...I am not so old...) came so bright, so surprisingly glorious to my senses that I could not stop smiling.
And since perfumes are a living thing, always developing and in movement, I could not avoid to relate to the most famous doll face ever: Shirley Temple. Actually she did licensed her face to the doll industry according to WIKI.
Nuda is a Shirley Temple perfume!
SHIRLEY TEMPLE
And to my delight, I found an older Temple, blooming in pink beauty, just like Nuda!
And also to my reader's surprise - my nickname in College was "barbie doll". So can you think of a better perfume for this editor? I even have Temple's golden hair-locks!
Nuda is very feminine, and not for children, don't get me wrong here. It is a seductive perfume. What I meant to say is that it has the playfull aura of dolls, it has that pink-ish aura ...but it is a perfume for powerful ladies. The ones that will make you tap dance after one single kiss!
To watch Shirley Temple dancing & singing, click HERE
To Essenza Nobile staff - have a dolly kiss for sending me this pinky treat!

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Chance Eau Tendre EDT de Chanel - Avaliação

CHANCE EAU TENDRE EDT BY CHANEL

Chance Eau Tendre EDT Chanel - Avaliação

Lançamento: 2010

Perfumista: JACQUES POLGE

Público: Feminino

Família Olfativa: Floral Frutal

Notas Olfativas: Grapefruit, marmelo, jasmim absoluto, íris, jacinto, almíscar branco, cedro e notas ambaradas.

Descrição da marca: "Um floral frutal constelação, ecoando a fragrância do grapefruit e do marmelo, intervindo num jasmim absoluto e aquecido por uma nota feminina de almíscar branco."

Inspiração: Uma jovem com um talento para felicidade, que encara a vida com otimismo.

Descrição + Q Perfume Blog: Iluminado, Frutal, Gossip Gils

Silagem: Boa

Fixação: Média

Avaliação: ✪✪✪

A primeira fragrância Chance EDP de Chanel foi criada em 2003, pelo perfumista in-house Jacques Polge, para resgatar o aspecto místico da personalidade de Coco Chanel. O frasco foi inspirado num objeto astrológico, representando uma constelação, que ao invés de planetas, conectava notas olfativas.

O PRIMEIRO CHANCE BY CHANEL

Um detalhe que poucos sabem – o frasco tem exatamente o tamanho da palma da mão de Coco. Já o perfume, era um Chipre floral com notas de jasmim, âmbar, patchouli e toques de pimenta rosa. Dizia-se na época que Chanel queria apresentar uma fragrância para que as mulheres se sentissem jovens.

UM CHANCE MAIS FRESCO

Em 2007 a marca lançou uma versão mais fresca, Chance Eau Fraîche. Energia, vitalidade e fantasia foram adicionadas, com notas mais vibrantes e luminosas. Cidra e jacinto aquoso entraram na composição, e a felicidade neste perfume foi apresentadas em pequenas bolhas. O frasco continuou o mesmo, porém o perfume recebeu uma tonalidade verde.

MARMELO

O último lançamento da franquia Chance, o Chance Eau Tendre (versão suave, como o nome indica em francês), traz um apelo mais jovial. Notas de marmelo (uma versão de pêra com nuances de maçã) e grapefruit substituíram o limão e a pimenta rosa do primeiro, e a cidra do segundo. Uma abertura frutal verdinha, muito alegre e saltitante. Chanel voltou aos tempos da adolescência. Tudo é lindo, tudo é novidade, e a energia vibra no ar! Me faz lembrar as campanhas da concorrente Dior, com o Miss Dior Chérie L’Eau (2009) e Miss Dior Chérie L’Eau EDT (2010), franquias de Miss Dior Chérie (2005).

O jeitinho Preppy de GOSSIP GIRLS

Chance Eau Tendre traz mais transparência e naivité. O bouquê floral voltou para a composição antiga de jasmim, íris e jacinto, mas dessa vez com um toque mais luxuoso dos absolutos. Como o nome sugere, a suavidade deveria estar presente na fragrância, porém no perfume não foi encontrada. Na verdade a terceira versão é um perfume destinado as mocinhas abastadas, que já procuram uma fragrância cara para combinar com produções chiques e mais adultas. O perfume retrata bem a geração Gossip Girls: Meninas com jeitinho prep school, cartão de crédito de várias bandeiras na carteira, conta no banco recheada, e bolsinhas Chanel a tira-colo. Para as mulheres maduras que sonham com a adolescência perdida, não deixa de ser uma opção divertida! O frasco continua com o mesmo formato, porém com tonalidade cor-de-rosa, bem preppy.

Para o making off da campanha publicitária, clique AQUI.

Para uma cena de Gossip Girls, clique AQUI.

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Out for sailing....

+ Q Perfume went sailing. be back soon...
+ Q Perfume foi velejar, volto logo...
T

Friday, July 16, 2010

Ormonde Jayne signature scents - Ormonde Man

To my beloved husband!



ORMONDE MAN EDP BY ORMONDE JAYNE
Range: Eau de parfum, essential bath oil, bath & shower cream, body lotion and candle.
Launch: 2004
Perfumer: Linda Pilkington
Gender: Masculine
Olfactive family: Oriental-woody
Olfactive Notes: Juniper berry, bergamot, pink pepper, cardamom, coriander seeds, Oudh, black hemlock, vetiver, cedar, sandalwood and musk.
Inspiration: A wish to make a signature perfume that would be a woody perfume. Linda Pilkington found hemlock, a precious luxurious wood. The trial of Socrates and his suicide drinking a poison hemlock based drink.

Rating ✪✪✪✪✪♥
Where:
✪✪✪✪✪ - I will kill MYSELF if I don't have it!
✪✪✪✪ - The smell of Greek Gods.
✪✪✪ - Sophist, but inconclusive.
✪✪ - a sentence of death.
✪ - poison me not!
(Please check Wiki for Socrates' judgement and suicide, if you are not understanding the rating system!)
Description by the brand: The most sophisticated fragrance of the brand, despite its unconventional ingredients. Complex and full of character, sultry and mystical, the fragrance exudes soft woody notes, but it is the infusion of Oudh oil, the world’s most prized essence since time immemorial, that sets it apart, elevating the scent to one of true distinction.
Description by + Q Perfume Blog: LUXURIOUS, VELVETY, WARM, SMOOTH, WOODY.
Silage: Great and polite.
Fixation: Amazing/Over 24 hours.
You will find Ormonde Jayne fragrances at: OJ website.
photo credit: Nathan Branch**
The opening of this fragrance is absolutely gorgeous! Pink pepper is always a delightful touch of Ormonde Jayne creations. Linda really knows how to bring out all the beauty of this note and unveil facets that are a joy to my senses. Slightly fruity, slightly sweety and dusty, with pinch of woodiness. As I wrote in one of my previous reviews:

photo credit: thenibble.com
"Pink peppercorn comes from a Brazilian plant calledschinus terenbinthifolius or from the Peruvian Treeschinus molle. Although sold as pepper because it has a pepper-like taste, it is not a real pepper (piper). In perfumery it is rather floral with fruity notes. The fragrance of pink pepper is very delicate. Some perfumes can have a real special aura due to pink peppers, such as Ta'if by Ormonde Jayne, which has a brilliant pink pepper opening (combined with saffron and dates) and Champaca, also Ormond Jayne's, with a luxurious accord of pink peppers, neroli and bamboo."
Here in Ormonde Man was combined with a fresh-fruity touch of bergamot, and the spicy tickling note of cardamom and juniper, mixed with the soapiness of coriander.
Cardamom is a very interesting note. It has a minty freshness, with less icy sensations. In natura cardamom has the a scent that reminds me of ginger mixed with back pepper and a hint of mint. Also, coriander seeds in natura, fresh from the garden has a soapy smell when you crush it.
The combination of all notes in Ormonde Jayne is the olfactive translation of a flirty smile! You see that gorgeous Ormonde Man and you can hold yourself, so you give him a huge flirty smile. ;-)
The heart of the perfume is composed by a combination of woody notes of Black Hemlock and Oud. Oud - An exotic middle eastern note, most commonly called AGARWOOD, (Oud is the name in arabic) has been explored by many niche brands.
The oil extracted from the trees are very important to Islamic and Buddhist religions and it was an important component to create incense used by Japanese traditional ceremonies.
The raw material is obtained when the wood of the tree is infected by parasite fungi or mold. To protect itself, the tree produces the resin. The process is slow, therefore this perfume component is expensive. The quality of an Oud oil depends on the quality of the Agarwood from which it is extracted. The oldest and most resinated agarwood will yield the rarest and most precious Oud oil. The aging process enhances the fragrant aura of the Oud resin and intensifies its aromatic value.
And how does it smell? Expensive!! It is a sultry touch for any perfume, but here in Ormonde Jayne it s just a confirmation of what we all know: Ormonde Jayne is a luxurious brand, using costly raw materials of high quality in the perfumer's creations. Linda's vision of a man, in my opinion, is someone gentle as her top notes, with deep feelings, translated by the deep woody resinous earthy Hemlock and Oud. The man has both feet on the ground! Vetiver and sandalwood are rooty-earthy. The fragrance is woody and velvety. It penetrates the skin and involves the soul. It warms the heart and brings a sense of comforting.
Linda's Omonde Man is gentle, classy, with both feet on the ground, so he also brings to his ladies a sense of secureness. He will hold his lady, embrace her, and make her feel special and provided, thus Oud grounds inner being. It also has a mysterious facet in the note, just like hemlock. Our gentleman will hold and support, will love and be present, but you will have to mature the relationship to read him better. He is not obvious, he is not a cliché of a gentleman. Ormonde man is my favorite masculine perfume of the brand and it does reflect my preference in men.
The base of Ormonde Jayne is something to long for. Once the heart is fully developed, you keep wondering what will come next to delight your senses. Dry down is smooth. A caress on the skin. It lasts for a long time, so you will fully enjoy every aspect slowly. Again, our gentleman is not obvious, it will take time to get to know him. Slowly you will develop a deep, long lasting relationship. Ormonde Jayne is not a summer fling, our a tempestuous passion. It is pure love.
My Ormonde Man is Hugh Jackman in a gray 3 pieces suit!
To read a delightful review of Ormonde Man by Nathan Branch, please click HERE.
For the best interview with Linda, by Nathan Branch click HERE.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

14th of July - Vive la France! Part Three

To my beloved O.S. - Happy B-day!
and finally... Les parfums!!
Chanel
Guerlain
Dior
Histoires de Parfums
Parfumerie Generale
Ego Facto
État Libre D'Orage
Le Labo
Hermès
Annick Goutal
L'Artisan Parfumeur
Diptyque
Comme des Garçons
and one of the perfumed temples of France...
But today, the greatest smell will be the explosive notes of firecrackers in the air!!

14th of July - Vive la France! Part Two

Continuing our journey into French culture...
Les Macarons!
Although predominantly a French confection, there has been much debate about its origins.
A macaron is a sweet confectionery. Its name is derived from an Italian word "maccarone" or "maccherone". This word is itself derived from ammaccare, meaning crush or beat, used here in reference to the almond paste which is the principle ingredient. It is meringue - based: made from a mixture of egg whites, almond flour, and both granulated and confectionery sugar. (from WIKI). To read more about these delicious pastries, click HERE.
And Laudurée masterpieces from fragrances...
Les Velos!
You will never have a complete French experience if you won't hide a bicycle in Paris!
Although invented by the Germans, in the early 1860s, Frenchmen Pierre Michaux and Pierre Lallement took bicycle design in a new direction by adding a mechanical crank drive with pedals on an enlarged front wheel (the velocipede). The French creation, made of iron and wood, developed into the "penny-farthing" (historically known as an "ordinary bicycle"), a retronym, since there were then no other kind. It featured a tubular steel frame on which were mounted wire-spoked wheels with solid rubber tires. These bicycles were difficult to ride due to their very high seat and poor weight distribuition. (from WIKI). If you wish to know more about this French maladie, click HERE.
I also have to mention the famous Tour de France - the annual bicycle race throughout France, bringing riders from all over the world. France is the leading country in Stage wins.
Les cafés!
Parisian cafés are the center of social gatherings and a place to explore the French culinary culture. They are places for rendezvous, for relaxing, for social networking, for political discussions and indeed a place for tourists wanting to feel a little bit "French".
The café de la Paix is one of the most famous and most antique, opened in 1862.
La Tour Eiffel!
The Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel in French; nickname La dame de fer, or the iron woman) is an 1889 iron lattice tower located on the Champ de Mars in Paris, that has become both a global icon of France, and one of the most recognizable structures in the world. The Eiffel Tower, which is the tallest building in Paris, is the single most visited paid monument in the world; millions of people ascend it every year. Named after its designer, engineer Gustave Eiffel, the tower was built as the entrance arch for the world fair in 1889. (from WIKI). To read about one of the most amazing iron structures of the world, click HERE.
to be continued...
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