Wednesday, March 26, 2014

SEX, FOOD & PERFUMES - PART I

This article will be divided into 2 parts. In the first part I will explore the food metaphors metaphors for sex. In part II you will find out how the tactile experience of using food in sex turned into an olfactive experience to be whiffed on the skin. I hope you enjoy!


Genesis 3:6:7



ו  וַתֵּרֶא הָאִשָּׁה כִּי טוֹב הָעֵץ לְמַאֲכָל וְכִי תַאֲוָה-הוּא לָעֵינַיִם, וְנֶחְמָד הָעֵץ לְהַשְׂכִּיל, וַתִּקַּח מִפִּרְיוֹ, וַתֹּאכַל; וַתִּתֵּן גַּם-לְאִישָׁהּ עִמָּהּ, וַיֹּאכַל.6 And when the woman saw that the tree was good for food, and that it was a delight to the eyes, and that the tree was to be desired to make one wise, she took of the fruit thereof, and did eat; and she gave also unto her husband with her, and he did eat.
ז  וַתִּפָּקַחְנָה, עֵינֵי שְׁנֵיהֶם, וַיֵּדְעוּ, כִּי עֵירֻמִּם הֵם; וַיִּתְפְּרוּ עֲלֵה תְאֵנָה, וַיַּעֲשׂוּ לָהֶם חֲגֹרֹת.7 And the eyes of them both were opened, and they knew that they were naked; and they sewed fig-leaves together, and made themselves girdles.


Since the early beginning of humankind we will find many symbolic connections between food and sex. In the book of Genesis in the Old Testament the serpent tricks Eve to eat the forbidden fruit and to offer it to Adam. By eating the forbidden fruit they discovered they were naked (meaning that they realized they had different sexes and they were attracted to each other in a sexual way) and because they disobeyed God's will they are punished by being expelled from the Garden of Eden. 

If the forbidden fruit was a pomegranate, a citron or a fig, we will never know. But we know for a fact that the forbidden fruit was a metaphor for pleasure and sex; and eating was a metaphor for sexual intercourse. The Old testament uses fruits as metaphors to approach this delicate subject as many ancient texts did in the past.



The historically and universally use of fruits as a metaphor for sex and erotica is linked to the intrinsic sexuality of the fruit itself. According to Ronald Veenker from the Western Kentucky University Fruit is the reproductive part of the plant – its sexual organs. Fruit is… very colorful and shaped so that it is readily differentiated from foliage. It is attractive to the eye, and tempts one to approach and touch it. Fruit exudes an appealing fragrance, especially strong and irresistible when it is very ripe. Fruit makes an ideal metaphor for sex because the two have quite similar sensual attributes. The sex organs are irregular in shape in comparison to other body parts. They increase in size and change color during sexual arousal, making them more attractive. The odors of the vaginal and seminal fluids also serve to attract and arouse. And the juiciness of both fruit and pudenda is obvious".

In ancient and modern Literature we will also find substitutions or expressions related to food when in fact the authors were speaking of sexual desire, passion and women's vaginal fluids. The list is long: "hunger for" using a verb related to food in substitution for wanting or lusting someone sexually; lover's desires to "eat" their beloved or the expression "devouring" with the eyes; men tasting women's sweet "honey"... just to mention a few.

We also have modern sexual connotations for food that are less sophisticated such as saying a woman pops her "cherry" to mean she lost her virginity or men relating to breasts as melons.



Some foods are directly linked to men's fantasy:
Processed meats such as hot dogs, sausages and winners are considered rather sexual for having phallic shapes; cucumbers, bananas, asparagus, zuchinnis, etc... are also clearly identifiable as male sex symbolism and men just love watching a woman put them into the mouth. Watch Gerard Butler coaching Katerine Heigl how to seduce her date by putting slowly a penis shaped food in her mouth in movie The Naked Truth.

Whipped cream.  Creams in general are constantly used in movies and in advertising as sexual associations with masculine sperm... and since we are mentioning whipping cream, I would like to tell you something very curious I recently learned about cake and sex. Turns out that wedding cakes are a symbol of the feminine sex organ and the act of cutting the cake is a metaphor for defloration. The act of cutting the cake by the bride and groom celebrates the act of making love that can and will be consummated only after marriage. Easy now to explain why we all have an urge to eat moistly creamy cakes!

Creative director of BBDO Paris, Valérie Levy- Harrar shows the sensuality of food in a series of videos called Chromatic Porn Food. She excites us without using a single human model. She plays with our fantasies. Showing how gourmand treats are sensually tasty.


In ROUGE we experience the combination of coffee ( a beverage commonly associated by consumers as masculine and virile) with raspberries - the feminine fruit. Raspberry is known to be related to women's fertility. It also symbolizes fragility and kindness. Lustful ingredients, such as chocolate, melt to create sensual creams. Boiling sugar and the intensity of the color red explore passion and desire.





In ROSE, although more sophisticated than ROUGE, we will find more explicit sexual connotation of intercourse when coffee cream is placed in a phallic pastry cone to be carefully inserted inside the pastry. There is penetration in food my friends!
Here the same masculine ingredient - coffee - will "seduce" and engage in "sexual intercourse" with a very delicate and feminine figure - Petit Chou - the pink French pastry. It is a visual feast of liquids and creams dripping, fire burning and pastries "growing and exploding". ROSE clearly illustrates that food preparing can be very sensual and that food ingredients can be very erotic and arousing.






So far we have seen food as a visual substitute for the forbidden pleasure either implied, imagined, or fantasized. But what about playing with food? Having a tactile sexual experience with them? To use taste and touch to seduce? 

Playing with food is universally forbidden for kids. Parents never liked it and even punished us for doing so. But as grown-ups we are allowed to play with food and use it as a tool of sexual excitement. Some people call it sitophilia.

In 1986 Kim Basinger lived a submissive, sadomaso toxic relationship with Mickey Rourke in Nine and A Half Weeks. The steamy scenes had a level of explicitness that is remembered till today. The sex scene in front of the refrigerator was probably reproduced in many other kitchens all over the world.

Mickey seduces Kim with her taste buds. With her eyes closed he inserts in her fleshy sensual mouth all kids of foods that have sexual connotations or shapes, such as dripping cherries, strawberries, jalapenos peppers and Jello. There are also scenes of liquids coming from her mouth such as wine, cough syrup and milk. The milk scene by the way is very erotic because Kim's close up licking it out of her face implies a blow job with coming-in-the-mouth fantasy. And the final touch is the honey. Mickey pours honey into on her tongue saying that he is going to put it right on the spot. He spreads honey on her knees and inner legs and finally after seducing and dominating her with food, they have sex.





The success of the movie is intrinsically related to the fact that AIDS was the great villain of the 80's and at that time people were either scarred of having sex or trying to get used to the fact that they could only have it if using condoms. So in order to spice up the act and make it more pleasurable, food played an important role in seduction. 
In the 90's manufactures launched condoms with taste in order to reinvent condoms and encourage the population to use them while having oral sex.


Comedian Carrie Snow once said that if God was a woman sperm would taste like chocolate. Well, it doesn't and if it did we wouldn't probably be here;-). But if you like chocolate or BACON (YES, BACON!) flavored penises your man can use a flavored condom. As shocking as it may sound to you J&D company invented the bacon flavored rubber.

Soon lubes, massage creams, stimulating oils, sexual enhancers and all sort of flavored balms and gels were successfully launched in the market for extra oral pleasure. The vast array of slippery flavored products are countless. Some of these tantalizing creams are advertised as EDIBLE creams.

But how to explain this sexual relationship that we have with food? Is it biological?
My guess is that it is evolutionary. As all carnivore animals, we are all hunting - mating beings. That said, he who brings the food gets to mate with the female. Food and sex were and still are the main factors of human survival in this planet, therefore the ability to supply food establishes an economic partnership between a male and a female in which men demonstrate how well they are able to provide and take care of themselves and their future offspring.

To be continued soon...

In PART II I will continue to explore the relationship between food and sex and understand how and why gourmet fragrances are so successful. I am also going to bring the unusual scents available in the market today with funny, shocking and "tasty" smells.

Meanwhile I would like to invite you to reflect a bit about the subject!

Thursday, March 6, 2014

JOUR D'HERMÉS EDP REVIEW

I has been a while since my last post and the reason is that it has been very difficult for me to enjoy a fragrance in such a way that I feel a desire to share my thoughts about it publicly. There are so many perfume blogs out there... So many launches each season... Unfortunately time is something that most of us don't have in this same proportion. I don't. I am not a perfume BLOG-GUIDE "look for fragrances to buy" kind of blog. I don't run after the newest launches. So today for me to sit and invest time to review a perfume it must be really about something that touched me in a special way.

JOUR D'HERMÉS EDP

JOUR D'HERMÉS EDP did not catch my attention when it was launched back in 2012. Fact is that none of the latest launches of the brand were interesting to me at all, so I did not feel particularly enthusiastically curious about this one too until I read an interview with Jean Claude Ellena and the fragrance. I found the story surrounding it quite interesting.  He got me curious, but even so, not curious enough. At least not until I got to NYC. 
It was a very cold day and I was literally freezing to death. Macy's seemed a open door to a tour to hell but what the heck, they had heaters! Wondering around the first floor without any particular interest I passed by the Hermés counter and the perfume was there displayed.  I approached the counter without many expectations, but once I held that beautiful flacon with my hands I fell in love with it.

When you hold a very heavy perfume bottle the first thing that comes to mind is that  that you are holding a luxurious piece of art (concept developed by Pochet du Courval). 

A kaleidoscope contain tiny pieces of colorful glass in various shapes and as we look in one end, light penetrates in the opposite side creating a colorful pattern that changes every time we move the kaleidoscope. 
JOUR D'HERMÉS EDP is an olfactive kaleidoscope.  In this fragrance composition molecules combine and recombine to create a expression of femininity, beauty and light. The fragrance is also a combination of opposites. The heaviness of the glass against the lightness of the fragrance. Simplicity as a concept, developed by a very complexed technique of combining common components to avoid overleaping and redundancies. Naturalness and abstraction. A bouquet of flowers that you don't recognize separately as a composition of single flowers; instead, a multiflower effect. Outdoors and indoor flowers. Voluptuousness and bucolically.  Effortlessness and elegancy.

JOUR D'HERMÉS EDP is a beautiful Americanization of Hermés Frenchy perfumes. It is crisp, clean, airy flowery and somehow it reminds me of QUARTZ POUR FEMME EDP BY MOLINEAUX. I found the same clarity and loveliness that Chandler Burr finds in Quartz. The same citrusy flowery beauty.

This year the brand is launching Jour d'Hermés Absolu - a more voluptuous and more sensual version. Transparency here gain depth. Notes of jasmine Sambac, honey and apricot flowers were added to the original composition. Although Ellena did not want to list the ingredients of the original version he has already revealed the notes such as jasmine, gardenia, sweet peas, patchouli, musk and sandalwood. 

I must add to this trilogy the Perfume concentration of Jour d'Hermés launched in 2013 - IMO is breath taking - not because of its beauty. It is so strong, diffusing in atomic proportions that literally makes on breathless. I did not like it at all.


P.S.: Although JCE says Jour d'Hermés is not the feminine version of Terre d'Hermés smelling both at the same time you will find many common notes.They pair well.

Thursday, November 7, 2013

Infusion de Fleur d"Oranger EDP da Prada - tendências


Mais uma avaliação para garantir sua originalidade e direitos de propriedade intelectual.

Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger  EDP (PRADA)
Créditos fotográficos: Marie Claire ITALIA

Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger  EDP (PRADA) 
Nota: IIII
Ano: 2009

Cremosidade radiante

Notas: mandarina, Absoluto de flores de laranjeira, absoluto de tuberosa, jasmim, néroli, serenolide.

Encontro de sucesso da marca Prada com a premiadíssima perfumista Daniela Andrier para criação do segundo perfume da coleção Prada Ephemeral Infusion.
Desta vez Daniela Andrier apostou na versatilidade e na nobreza das matérias primas, brincando com contrastes para criar um perfume delicado, elegante e harmonioso. As características cintilantes e refrescantes da flor de laranjeira e do néroli, tão exploradas na perfumaria italiana, são trabalhadas aqui de forma mais complexa, evoluindo para deixar emergir seus subtons penetrantes, sedutores e intensos; e que praticamente se fundem nas notas de coração, compostas por um buquê requintado de flores brancas. O resultado desta justaposição produziu um efeito radiante, como um dia ensolarado de verão.
O uso de notas absolutas conferem um  toque luxuoso ao perfume, e a combinação de notas de jasmim do tipo sambac (mais adocicadas e com toques de mel) com o serenolide (ou musk branco) resultam numa textura cremosa e aveludada.

<VANTAGEM: Apesar de ser efêmera em sua essência (por ser uma edição limitada), sua fixação é muito boa. Lançada como fragrância de verão, é versátil e pode ser tranquilamente usada no inverno, pois levanta o astral em dias chuvosos e cinzas.
=DESVANTAGEM: se você é do tipo que busca desenvolver uma relação estável e monogâmica com seu perfume, definitivamente Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger não é para você. Por ser uma edição lançada para o verão, logo será descontinuada.

Procurando a cremosidade em outros frascos:
Essence EDP (Narciso Roriguez) - 2009

TAGS: Prada, Floral Fresco
I - Te esqueci depois da primeira borrifada
II - Hum...Falta um algo mais
III - Namoro mas não caso
IIII - Amor a primeira vista
IIIII - Jamais te deixarei!

UN MATIN D'ORAGE EDT de Annick Goutal - Tendências


Este é mais um artigo/avaliação de fragrância que tinha sido publicado no site Cristiana Arcangeli. Apesar de não ser um perfume lançado neste ano, ele se encontra dentro das últimas tendências de perfumaria para 2013/14. Portanto vale a pena ler ou reler e reencontrar sua beleza!

Un Matin d’Orange  EDT (Annick Goutal)

Estilo: Fresco, fluído, sensual delicado.
Lançamento:2009

Notas olfativas: magnólia, jasmim Sambac, jasmim Misori, limão siciliano, Champaca da Indonésia, gengibre e Shiso* e provávelmente sândalo.

Annick Goutal lançou em 1989 Gardenia Passion, um perfume inspirado na sua viagem para o Japão, e a fragrância das gardênias florescendo naquele país. Um perfume floral intenso, com notas de gardênia, jasmim, tuberosa, flor de laranjeira e baunilha.
Vinte anos mais tarde, Camille Goutal, a filha herdeira de Annick voltou de sua viagem pelo Japão e resolveu retomar o tema para criar novamente uma nova fragrância de gardênia, junto com a perfumista Isabelle Doyen, a perfumista in – house da marca.
Un Matin D’Orage significa uma manhã após a tempestade. Camille imaginou um jardim japonês depois da chuva. Musgo, bambus, cerejeiras, uma névoa vinda da terra molhada cobrindo as plantas, e gotas de água sobre as pétalas de gardênias iluminadas, foram os elementos de inspiração para criação de um perfume simplesmente encantador.
Nesta segunda interpretação da gardênia, Doyen conseguiu compor com perfeição a fragrância natural da flor. As notas de saída de limão siciliano são frescas e limpas, causando uma sensação de bem estar e harmonia. Aqui, combinadas  com os toques ligeiramente mentolados e doces do shiso e levemente apimentados do gengibre, trazem uma áurea japonesa ao perfume. O buquê de flores brancas que desabrocha em seguida não tem uma consistência cremosa, que geralmente é encontrada em outros perfumes. Em Un Matin D’Orage boa parte da doçura foi retirada, e a falta da característica leitosa das flores combinadas com o frescor vibrante das notas de cabeça, criam a transparência e traduzem a característica natural desejada. É como se um sopro ou uma névoa floral pousasse sobre a pele. Passeando por este jardim de sombras e raios de luz, Camille e Isabelle Doyen trouxeram para o frasco, a vivacidade de uma flor exalando sua beleza natural, revelando uma sensualidade delicada. Foram em busca da tranqüilidade da filosofia oriental, encontrada após uma tormenta.

<VANTAGEM: Excelente fixação e perfeição estrutural.
=DESVANTAGEM: Preço relativamente alto.

(*) Shiso é uma planta nativa do Himalaia e da Ásia oriental, da classe da magnólia. Também conhecida como Perilla. Suas folhas enfeitam pratos japoneses e suas sementes são 

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Trend Radar - Global Fragrance Market - PART I

THE SHIFT IN THE MARKET

According to Carlin International, a French communication company,  we are to see a shift in the luxury market. The main reason is that Generation Y has different cultural expectations regarding to luxury.
In my next posts I will bring the latest trends and try to show here what is already happening in the luxury market of fragrances.

You all know I am not a fan of Gabrielle Chanel as a person**, but the brand is definitely one step ahead of all other fragrance brands.




What is Chanel currently doing:

The newest advertising campaign for Chanel Nº5 brings back the most iconic moment of fragrance advertising of all times.
Marilyn Monroe five decades ago stated that she went to bed wearing nothing more than some drops of Chanel Nº5. At that time the story of the most seductive fragrance was published by the London Daily Mail when a reporter made the following observation "Marilyn Monroe never had trouble attracting men. Now it appears that her colorful love life may have been down to a simple choice - her perfume." 
Truth is that Marilyn Monroe was never paid to endorse Chanel Nº5 and she never appeared in any advertising ad for the brand. 
So why now? 
Many will jump and say that after Brad Pitt there is nobody more appealing than Monroe! 
The new campaign suggests that the brand recently got hands on the record of MM's being interviewed by Georges Belmont, the former editor-in-chief of Marie Claire Magazine, during the shootings of the film Let's Make Love many decades ago.

The recorded tape reveals a conversation that goes like this: "You know, they ask me questions. Just an example: 'What do you wear to bed ? A pajama top ? The bottoms of the pajamas? A nightgown? So I said, "Chanel No.5", because it's the truth… And yet, I don't want to say "nude'. But it's the truth!" 

MARILYN MONROE & CHANEL Nº5



...humm...they only put their hands on this now? I find this hard to believe. 

What really made Chanel bring MM back to the scenario?  
Let's understand why Chanel marketing machine is sharper than ever!

I think the marketing managers of Chanel brand recently LOOKED FOR the records in their old archives to search something to use in the new advertising for this incoming Christmas (when most financial market radars are watching closely which brand is going to sell the most in this particular season).

Why? Because they are aware of what is trendy now!

According to Carlin, the concept of time regarding luxury brands has shifted to incorporate iconic value and the importance of time in their advertising and product developments. As generation Y is in an intersection trying to balance their style of living fast with their soul searching. In this case we are about to see a revival of myths and legends. 
As the experts of Carlin explains "Time matters to this generation!" 
We have also learned that NOSTALGIA is in full gear as a trend  - read here).

Chanel happens to have lost grounds to other brands lately and it is desperate to regain that title. The launch of a Coco fragrance flanker, Coco Noir, was a step into nostalgia.
Also, Brad Pitt was a previous choice for Chanel Nº5 advertising after a research that pointed him as the most desired man of the last decades. They paid him 7 mi and he was there selling Chanel in that crazy monologue, that later became a joke in the internet. Chanel once had the most iconic personality/celebrity of all times endorsing the most sold fragrance of the world. Marilyn is globally known. Everybody thinks that her statement of going to sleep naked only wearing Chanel was THE SEXIEST thing ever said by a celeb...plus icons and legends are now trendy, so using her is Chanel's ultimate marketing strategy to sell A LOT this Christmas!

But what is an iconic product or iconic brand? How we define that?
In marketing an iconic brand is one that is recognizable all over the world and it is not shaken by economical or political convulsions. They have a cultural and emotional significance. They are rooted in our culture and consciousness.
According to H B Holt, a Harvard Business School professor, an iconic brand is the one that go way beyond the products benefits and features. Iconic brands appeal to a certain set of values and attitudes and are life style driven.
All iconic brands seem to fulfill 3 requirements:
Create an identity myth; involve multiple story tellers; and weave powerful brand stories.
Icon means image and in the modern culture icon means a symbol. 
So Marilyn Monroe was and still is a sex symbol. She represented an image of a certain type of woman - The one who was desired by all men. She was considered a GODESS.
If you want to know why she became an icon it is very easy to explain. First of all she died young and carrying with her the mysterious truth of her death. Till today there is a pending question whether she committed suicide or was killed. As she died young, we only have the image of a beautiful sexy young lady. We don't know how she would have aged. Not only that, she married or had love affairs with other iconic celebs such as Joe DiMaggio, Marlon Brandon and JFK. And the cherry on top: she had the bombshell mix of naiveté and sex appeal. The dumb sexy blonde.

What Chanel is bringing is an icon of culture and Chanel is not selling Chanel Nº5! It is selling an attitude! Chanel is selling a myth.

But Chanel is not the only brand tuned in the trend. Paco Rabanne is also a brand on the rise. This very successful and iconic brand of the 70's and it is now launching "Invictus", a fresh-woody sporty fragrance for men, which is not only bringing a shirtless sexy Australian rugby player, but also mythical "Greek Gods". 

NICK YOUNGQUEST NAKED

Here the marketing team is mixing the image of a six pack successful young man (fit, rich, sexy, beautiful) with a sort of epic saga and an allegory for victory and references to Hercules, a demi-god and the son of Greek Zeus . And why Nick Youngquest? Besides being gorgeous, he has no problem to photograph naked for gay magazines. The answer is YES if you are asking about photos with front nudity... but you know...my blog is about fragrances...not porn...so I can't really publish them here...but I think you will enjoy googling them...Paco Rabanne, the iconic brand, is bringing the image of a virile champion full of testosterone and with an attitude of this Generation Y which is being opened when sex is concerned and being cool regarding the same-sex relationship issues. Nick has no problem whatsoever with his sexuality and his profession. He came out of the closet and he is respected by his teammates in the locker room. 


 


"Paco Rabanne is turning a sensational new page for men’s fragrances. With Invictus, Paco Rabanne is exploring a new dream – the fantasy of victory – a new hero – the champion – and a new scent territory – the sensual freshness for men. The perfume is named after the demi-god of Invictus – a contemporary hero, the ultimate masculine ideal, a magnificent specimen of manhood. His virility is raw, almost animalistic. He is what men aspire to and women desire. Beyond his physique, it is his triumph that makes him desirable. This victory not only gives him wings; it is an aphrodisiac. He also has a sense of humour, making his smile his ultimate weapon". Extracted from Business Today.

OBS.: The Pew Research Center poll has recently shown:

The new survey finds 70% of millenials in favor of same-sex marriage, which is far higher than the support among older generations. And since millennials make up a larger share of the adult population today, the overall trend has also changed, with a 49% majority supporting gay marriage, as opposed to 33% of the population in 2003. In 2003, millennials made up just 9% of the adult population. Today, 27% of adults are in the millennial generation.

Additional interesting reading: Selling the dead, by The Telegraph. Read about posthumous advertising royalties and commercial transactions involving delebs.

FLORIS RECEIPT OF PURCHASE BY MARILYN MONROE
Photo credit: Floris brand

Additional interesting info: Chanel Nº5 was not MM's only choice for frangrances. Truth is that the bombshell also had a secret love affair with FLORIS. In 1959 she ordered 6 bottles of a perfume called Floris Rose Geranium under the name of her secretary, Miss Dorothy Blass. Fragrances were delivered to her hotel room while she was filming Some Like It Hot. It is also known today her passion for rose geranium, cedarwood, citronella notes.

** My personal opinion about Miss Gabrielle Chanel was that she was a social climber and a prostitute. She was a Nazi collaborator and a promiscuous antisemitic woman. IMO she should have been arrested, tried and convicted for attempt of murder of her Jewish partners, The Werthemeir family, with intent of stealing their shares of the company she owned in partnership with them by using her influence with Nazis and try to send them to concentration camp. As everybody knows from all biographies ever written about her and proved to be true, she tried to send them to a concentration camp to be exterminated - read as "attempt to murder or assist to murder". She IMO would also have to face trial as a spy and nazi collaborator during the occupied France. In that case it would have been a pleasure to see Miss Chanel have her hair shaved, her clothes taken off and be left out for public humiliation like the French did to ALL FRENCH WHORES who slept with nazis at that time, which it did not happen because she was also at that time helped by one of her many sexual clients - Mr. Churchill. So, as much as I like Chanel's fragrances I despise the woman who created this brand. I only wear the perfumes knowing that because a Jewish family was also a part of the Chanel Beauty Brand.

Stay tuned for more trends as I will continue to bring them here to you!
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