Leather & Perfumery - Ancient Times - Part ONE

Modern European perfumery has its roots in the scenting of leather, which itself has a long tradition. + Q Perfume Blog invites her readers to feel the softness and the warmth of leathers. We will start our journey in the ancient times even before Christ to understand the origin of leathery notes in perfumery. We will continue to the stinky tanneries and the fine art of scenting gloves. We will see how leather and perfumes were always connected through history. We will end up our journey selecting beautiful leathery perfumes. So throw yourself on a leather chair or sofa and relax while reading me!

History of Leather

Leather has played an important role in the development of civilization. From prehistoric times men have used the skins of animals to satisfy their basic needs. They have used it to make clothing, footwear, belts, containers for liquids, boats, armor, shelter, carpets and even decorative attire. The principle protective armor of the Roman soldier was a heavy leather shirt. Although leather sometimes was used for protection against poor weather, its primary use was in footwear and belts. Animal skins were worn over the helmet with bearskins being popular among legionaries and feline among with Praetorians. Ancient Roman taxidermists would retain the entire body and the head, with the front legs tied to fasten over the armor. The animal's head would fit over the soldier's helmet, and mostly was worn by the Roman aquilifer, who carried the symbol of Rome into battle.The Romans rarely used goatskin for their leather, preferring pig or sheepskin, although the ideal would be the preferred leather was that most readily available – cattle skin. The thickest and most durable leather was used for shoe soles.

Romans at battle

Pieces of leather dating from 1300 B.C. have been found in Egypt. Egyptian women used leather ornaments that were as praised as jewelry. Primitive societies in Europe, Asia and North America all developed the technique of turning skins into leather goods. The Greeks were using leather garments in the age of the Homeric heroes (about 1200 B.C.), and the use of leather later spread throughout the Roman Empire.

Illustration copyright - fashion-era.com

Tanned animal hide made the earliest shoes in China. They are ancestors of leather boots. In the ancient script engraved on bone and tortoise shell it depicts a whole animal hide was trimmed and stretched out. This would indicate that, at the time written Chinese was being formulated; socks and shoes were both related to leather. In ancient times there was no distinction between shoes and socks. The ancients would protect their feet by cutting out pieces of animal hide, wrapping them around their feet, and securing them with leather thongs. The earliest pair of leather shoes in existence in China is a 4,000-year-old pair of boots made from sheep hide, worn by a mummified female corpse discovered in the ruins of the ancient kingdom of Loulan, in the deserts of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. The lower and upper parts were sewn together using thick hide threads.

The Indians of North America also had developed great skills in leatherwork before the coming of the white men. By accident or by trial and error, man discovered methods of preserving and softening leather treating animal skins with such things as smoke, grease and bark extracts.

Hebrews' Leather Solae - found in the Dead Sea desert -fist century BC

The art of tanning leather using the bark of trees probably originated among the Hebrews. In primitive societies, the art was a closely guarded secret passed down from father to son.

Romans, Greeks and Hebrews applied perfumed oils on belts, leather sandals and ornaments, either to perfume themselves or to better preserve the leather goods. Rosemary, marjoram, spikenard, jasmine, roses, anises, spices, lilies, orris, frankincense, myrrh, galbanum, cedar etc...mixed with vegetable oil bases such as olive and almond oil where the common perfumes of that time.

Voyage d' Hermès - Fragrance review and trends perspectives

VOYAGE D'HERMÈS EDT

photo credit and art: Hermès

Voyage d'Hermès EDT - review

Launch: 2010

Perfumer: Jean Claude Ellena (The one and only!)

Bottle design: Philippe Mouquet

Gender: Unisex

Olfactive family: Woody floral musk.

Olfactive Notes: lemony notes, cardamom, tea, floral and green notes, hedione, lavender, ginger, ambrette, woody notes, musk.

Description by the Brand:"The story of Hermès is a voyage. Voyage d'Hermès is lively and reassuring, new and familiar. Radiant and soft, it is a woody fresh, musky scent. A fragrance to share for both men and women."

Description by + Q Perfume Blog: A Misty foggy journey into the woods looking for the Holy Grail. MISTY, FLOWERY, CLEAN, TRANSPARENT, DELICATE.

Silage: Medium

Fixation: Medium

Rating:✬✬✬✬

Where:

✬✬✬✬✬ - Holy Grail is less holy than this creation!

✬✬✬✬ - a king's perfume!

✬✬✬ - it escapes like mist evaporating.

✬✬ - my senses are foggy on this one.

✬ - so transparent you can barely notice it exists!

You can find this fragrance at HERMÈS website.

2010 is the year of green-y, clean, transparent/fluid perfumes. Untitled by Margiela, Eau de Campagne by Sisley, Ninfeo by Annick Goutal, L'Eau by Serge Lutens, Eau de Fleur de Capucine by Chloé, A Scent by Issey Miyake, Eternity Men Aqua by Calvin Klein, L'Eau au Masculin by Lolita Lempicka...and the list goes on and on. We have been seeing a lot of green notes, labdadum, galbanum, fresh cut grass, verbenas, cardamoms, crushed leaves, mints, green teas, pale jasmine, transparent musks, water-y notes, citrusy, pale anises and delicate wood-y finishings. VERT, FRAÎCHE, TENDRE, AQUA has been very common words while naming perfumes this year. Predicted by famous trend setter and published here, Li Edelkoort brought the water element to fashion and architecture. Water was the main concern at the end of 2009.

When I first tried Margiela's Untitled I found it very interesting. The super green note of galbanum combined with boxwood, toned down by cacau tenderness was really special. It bothered me thou the final fatty - cigarette ashtray combination.

As I recall, I compared it to Prada's Infusion d'Iris, also green-y and woody, but too soapy for my taste.

Than I found Voyage d'Hermès: Pure Perfection.

If I could rename olfactive families and reorganize them, I would diplay these three fragrances on the same shelf, from Prada to Hermès, in a scale of delicacy (from less delicate and stronger, to softer and more delicate).

I will not compare Ellena's previous Voyages as my fellows perfume blogers did. It would be just one more repetition of what has been said about this fragrance. Or either if it is disappointing or not to Ellena's fans. I am a fan, never disappointed!

What I would mention is that Hermès did follow a trend like any big massive production company. So what? Niche Perfumes such as Margiela and Serge Lutens also did! The difference is that Ellena has mastered this idea of transparency-green combination much better than anyone else.

GINGER

Voyage d'Hermès EDT has a fresh opening of citrusy-lemmony notes, combined with spicy-peppery notes of ginger and cardamom. You are not trimming the grass of your garden on a Sunday morning, you are not in a sauna or sucking air while skiing.

You are in a dream on top of a mountain, at early hours before sunrise...A foggy, misty humid dream of searching for something that it is not clear.

The little droplets suspended on the air, bringing a fresh bluish aura to your dream came bottled in a fragrance.

The freshness of ginger suggests it is a daydream, and not an obscure voyage into darkness, (another trend pointing out - but to be commented soon, in another article).

Notes of ambrette seed comes along, but it vanishes into the foggy clouds. The fragrance of ambrette reminds me of wet pavements drying out on a hot day - the smell of cement with a mineral hint. Also a hint that this could be a urban dream. Someone could also get lost in a mist foggy trail in a dream, trapped by buildings.

AROMATIC LAVENDER

Lavander notes brings the aromatic, fresh, clean roundup, and announce that flowers will be blooming. Like a reflection and a refraction of the tinny water drops, the flowery notes of this perfume do not come directly, exploding outwards the skin. It mirrors Ellena's sensitivity. It is implicit and intimate. Combined with tea (a combo that I love and it is found in many fragrances) the flowers receive an aura of nobleness knighthood.

MUSK

photo credit: profumo.it

Transparent musks with a slightly creamy-powedery under layered is wrapped into dry woody notes. I have seen this before in his work for L'Artisan Parfumeur, Bois de Farine. A very delicate version already experimented in the past of a pencil note, slightly powdery and slightly flowery.

What I love about musk is the fact that it can be very sexy, animal and glandular. Or very transparent clean. Animal source bringing the notion of cleanness is not new, but always amazes me! It is just the final touch for the misty delicacy of the fragrance.

Voyage d'Hermès EDT is a jewel. To me, it is as simple and as perfect and as chic as the Trinity Cartier ring. Three different metals rings, three different colors (pink, yellow and white gold) representing three concepts: love, friendship and fidelity.

As in Cartier's, Voyage d'Hermès EDT brings 03 concepts perfectly intertwined: transparency, delicacy and nobility.

Comparing Ellena's creation to Serge Luten's L'Eau, Voyage d'Hermès EDT represents the concept of water with more reality. L'Eau has aldehydes, magnolias, mint, clary sage, ozonic notes, musks and citrusy notes. The flower bouquet is too strong to be related to water. It has some transparency but not enough. At some point it reminds me of a combination presented by L'Ocitanne with jasmine and green tea. While Ellena's creations are round and perfectly finished, as Trinity rings; most Luten's always lack the polish that every jewel gets before displayed for sale. But this is another issue...

To enter to foggy journeys to the land of mystical Grails, kings, witchcraft and quests:

Excalibur - Click HERE

Monty Python The Holy Grail - 3 questions - click HERE

Menthe Fraîche - Fragrance review

MENTHE FRAÎCHE EDP BY HEELY

Perfume: Menthe Fraîche EDP

Launch: ?

Perfumer: David Maruitte

Gender: Unisex

Olfactive family: Citrus-green

Olfactive Notes: Spearmint, peppermint, bergamot, green tea, freesia, white cedar.

Inspiration: Patrick Bateman in American Psycho.

Description by the brand: Contemporary, ultra-fresh, natural scent. Crushed mint leaves, interwoven with a hint of Sicilian bergamot, green tea and white cedar. A perfectly light, easy to wear fragrance. An olfactory interlude.

Description by + Q Perfume: BLISTEX, SEXY SKIER, TOOTH PASTE, CHIC.

Silage: Good

Fixation: Too long to be true.

Rating: ✪✪✪✪✪✪

Where:

✪✪✪✪✪ - BEAUTIFUL AS A PERFECT WHITE TEETH SMILE!

✪✪✪✪ - SEXY AS TONY BETSCHART!

✪✪✪ - NICE COOLING EFFECT.

✪✪ - AS CHEAP AS TOOTH PASTE.

✪ - DUMP IT INTO THE SNOW.

Where to find the fragrance: Heely's web site - click HERE

WRIGLEY'S SPEARMINT GUM

photo credit: candyaddict.com

The chewing gum was invented by the Greeks - the ancient version of gum was a chewing resin, called mastiche and extracted from the mastic tree. Early American settler made chewing gum out of spruce sap and bee wax. The first commercial gum was sold in America in 1848, and in 1914, Wrigley Doublemint brand was created. William Wrigley, Jr. and Henry Fleer were responsible for adding the popular mint and fruit extracts to a chicle chewing gum.

Since I was ten years old, contrary to my little friends, chewing Bubbaloo and Adam's tutti-frutti gum, I was addicted to Wringley's spearmint gum. Why? because of the smell and the peppery taste! As I grew older, I was chewing less and less gum, and as nowadays I suffer of TMJD (Temporomandibular joint disorder), so Wringley's is totaly out of the question.

BLISTEX MINT LIP BALM

Another product that I was addicted to is Blistex, that fantastic lip balm for soothing chapped and burned lips (from cold weather). For the same reason of Wringley's - that lip balm is loaded of menthol, my beloved menthol! I always ended up eating the balm from the lips, turning them from chapped to real cuts.

MINT LEAFS

The only safe way I found to enjoy this lovely plant, without dislocating my jaw or cutting my lips was to drink mint tea, or to add the flavor in salads, such as Tabbouleh.

Today I found a safe and amazing way to experience mint for one entire day: Heely's Menthe Fraîche EDP!

The first whiff is a joy of citrusy notes of Sicilian bergamots, combined with notes of two kinds of mint; spearmint and peppermint. Peppermint is mentha piperita, with strong levels of menthol, usually used to add flavor in chewing gums, toothpastes, shampoos and creams. This kind of mint gives a very cooling effect to the skin, felt immediately at the first whiff of this perfume. As the name suggests, this note is the most peppery of all the other mints.

Spearmint, or mentha spicata, or Nana Mint of Morocco (the only we savor everyday in Israel!), reminds of the peppermint, but it is more pungent and sweeter. It has 0.5% less menthol than the peppermint, and it contains pinenes and carvone.

The combination of both with the bergamots, brings a freshness only felt when you suck up air into the mouth, after brushing the teeth with mint flavored toothpastes. Icy cold, with a sweetness under layered.

But one could think it is rather strange to smell like toothpaste. Don't get me wrong, or anybody else reviewing this fragrance. Heely's Menthe Fraîche is far from having the scent of tooth pastes! It has the cooling, refreshing effect of it.

BLOOMING GREEN TEA

Heart notes is also a pleasant surprise. Notes of green tea combined with freesia explode just like those blooming green teas, when hot water is poured into the cup. Delicate, herbal, very aromatic, this accord is an endulgement to my senses. The soft nutty note implied is very elegant.The finishing is a white cedar note - very dry and also delicate.

In general the fragrance is fresh-green with a flowery and woody touch. I have recommended in the past as a nice summer fragrance (click HERE to read), and I continue to do so, but as I am reviewing it today, I cannot think of a better description than a SEXY SKIER'S FRAGRANCE! Perfect for any time of the year, it will be a blast in a snowy holidays, doing winter sports such as ski or snowboarding, lodges made of wood, hot coco or wine and someone to kiss.

TONI BETSCHART

The brand should invite Toni "the Body" Betschart to pose for the advertising of this fragrance. Just imagine Toni spraying the perfume, spreading Blistex on his lips, showing a perfect white teeth smile... dreamy! The perfect kiss in the lodge...

Info on Toni in case you are not into ski celebs: He has appeared bare-chested in behalf of Swiss tourism. He is a sexy ski instructor with a body to lust and for many to envy.

Candle selection - amazing fragrances!

+ Q Perfume Blog has selected for you wonderful scented candles. The fragrances are a treat to the senses and they bring a very special atmosphere for your home or office.

Le Labo's Santal 26 - 100% soya base

Le Labo scent candle collection offers 07 fragrances: Anis 24, Calone 17, Cedre 11, Figue 15, Petit Grain 21, Pin 12 and Santal 26.

Santal 26 is an elegant aristocratic fragrance. Leathery, rich and smoky with a modern glass - like a lab vial.

Amourelle Figue Patchouli Amourelle Paris candles are made in Grasse - France, following the principles of aromatherapy and the tradition of French perfumery. With 12% of perfume, those candles are soft and sophisticated. The collection has 05 different scents: Figue Patchouli, Orchidée Noire, Tubéreuse Noire, Lilas Rose, Bergamote and Gardénia. Figue Patchouli is a rich scented candle inspired by sunny notes of the Mediterranean summer. A mix of patchouli leaves, black fig, yellow mimosas, redcurrant, black currant and green leaves.

Chococaïne

The Hype Noses offers a collection called Urban candles with :Rose Antique, Grande Bourbon, L’Arbre Guide, Fig Arrow, Banana Kiss, Cheminée, Blanc Désir, Thé et Kimono, Pain de Vienne, Violette Opéra, Narcissisme, Masque Africain, Pyramide de Jasmin, Haricot Magique, Chococaïne, Cerise Chérie, Epices en Stock, Mon Bel Oranger and Art Maniac.

They also have what they call a wooden wick, that is an scented flat bar. Once you light it, it spreads scent without emanation of smoke, and emits the noise of a crackling of a fireplace too, creating a very distinguish atmosphere.

The brand has an elegant wax made of soya and palm, which is creamy and dense with a subtle fragrance. It is a luxurious fragrant way for closing envelopes and decorating gifts and papers. Chococaïneis a scented candle with the fragrance of pure bitter cocoa for purists. It is a work on the beauty of the bean and its qualities. Boiling black chocolate. A dark, tender, powerful shamanic journey.

Hervé Gambs - Black Cashmere XXL Limited Edition

Hervé Gambs has a collection of 07 scented candles: Lait de Palme, Fleur D'Eau, Souffle de bambou, Yuzu Tonic, el d'Osmanthus and Aqua Ginger. The most chic of them is his limited edition - Black Cashmere XXL. Slightly woody with a touch of skin like scent.

Elixir by Penhaligon's

The line of fragranced candles offered by Penhaligon's has 15 scents. Created by Olivia Giacobeti in 2008, Pelinhaligons' candle Elixir has notes of: Eucalyptus, Cardamom, Orange Blossom Absolute, White Cedar, Red Turkish Rose Absolute, Egyptian Jasmine Absolute, Cinnamon Leaves, Mace, Rosewood, Benzoin, Tonka beans, Vanilla, Incense, Red Sandalwood and Guaicum Wood. Elixir opens with eucalyptus and the harmonising hot spices of cardamom, cinnamon and mace. The heart notes massage the senses with the dark magic of Turkish rose and jasmine and a twist of orange. Heat and smoke rise from the base and incense and woods mingle with the earthy resins and spices. A touch of vanilla and the hypnotic Tonka bean complete the atmospheric dry-down. Opulent and daring, mysterious and complex, Elixir echoes Hammam Bouquet, created by William Penhaligon in 1872.