A Tribute to great women/Um tributo a grandes mulheres

After a long list of successful creations such as Kouros by YSL, Dolce Vita by Dior, Cool Water by Davidoff among many others, Pierre Bourdon teamed up in 2007 with Chemist Annie Vannier (Dior, Givenchy, L'Oreal, Guerlain, LVHM, Segram group) to create a brand called Roméa D'Ameor. Together they developed a collection of seven fragrances to bring the essence of seven great female personalities of history. Also, each fragrance is a tribute to a different personality.

Depois de uma longa lista de criações de sucesso, como por Kouros YSL, Dolce Vita de Dior, Davidoff Cool Water, entre muitos outros, Pierre Bourdon e a química Annie Vannier (Dior, Givenchy, L'Oreal, Guerlain, LVHM, Segram grupo) criaram juntos uma marca chamada Romea D'Ameor. Juntos, eles desenvolveram uma coleção de sete fragrâncias para trazer a essência de sete grandes personalidades femininas da história. Cada perfume também presta uma homenagem a um tipo de personalidade diferente.

The Great Empresses of Japan

Notes of: Melon, Ylang-ylang, Iris, Vetiver, Teck, Sandalwood, Vanilla

Suiko (reigned: 593-628), the daughter of the Emperor, is entering her second year as the first woman to rule Japan. As she gazes out on magnificent garden on the palace grounds, she is besotted with the tender white floral notes (peony, lily, ylang-ylang, heliotrope) scenting the wind. Another breeze brings the soft and powdery notes of iris and violet...

Notas de melão, ylang ylang, íris, vetiver, mógno, sândalo e vanila.

Suiko (reinado: 593-628), a filha do Imperador, está entrando em seu segundo ano como a primeira mulher a mandar no Japão. Enquanto ela olha para o lado de fora, para o magnífico jardim do palácio, ela está obcecada com a doces notas florais brancas (peônia, lírio, ylang-ylang, heliotrópio) sentindo a essência do vento. Outra brisa suave traz notas atalcadas de íris e violeta ...

Les Espionnes du Tsar

Notes of: Lemon Ice, Grapefruit, Magnolia, Jasmin, Rose, Sandalwood, Patchouli

St Pétersburg 1720. Tsar Peter the Great has recently been informed that Louis XV’s reputation as patron of the arts has spread beyond the borders of France. Numerous artists compete to win sought-after commissions to decorate the rooms of the French palaces. He decides, therefore, to send his favourite spy Anna to France.

Notas de limão gelado, toranja, magnólia, jasmim, rosa, sândalo e patchouli.

São Petesburgo 1720. O Czar Pedro o Grande foi recentemente informado de que a reputação do rei Luis XV como patrono das artes já se espalhou pelas fronteiras da França. Vários artistas competem para conseguir comissões para decorar od palácios franceses. Ele decide então mandar sua espiã favorita - Anna - para a França.

The Mistresses of Louis XIV

Notes of: Crumpled Leaves, Lily Of The Valley, Jasmin, Rose, Iris, Underwood

The scent story of The Mistresses of Louis XIV begins in 1668 in the grand park of the Palace of Versailles. The King desires a woman who possesses both the earthy and wild majesty of the garden (lily, rose, and green notes) and the opulent splendor of the castle (wood, amber, cloves and galbanum)...

Notas de: Folhas, Lírio do Vale, jasmin, rosa, íris e madeiras.

A história perfumada das amantes de Louis XIV começa em 1668 no parque grande do Palácio de Versalhes. Os desejos do rei por uma mulher que possui tanto a majestade selvagem da terra e do jardim (lírio, rosa e notas verdes) eo esplendor opulento do castelo (madeira, âmbar, cravo e gálbano)...

The Sovereigns of Egypt

Notes of: Passion Fruit, Melon, Jasmin, Rose, Peru Balsam, Narcissus, Vanilla, Coconut

The year is 1346 and Egypt’s XVIII Dynasty is thriving. Nefertiti rules by the side of her Pharoah and husband Amenhotep IV (Akhenaten)... More than the breadbasket of Egypt, the Nile nourishes fragrant flowers and fruit, some that can be found nowhere else. Nefertiti recognizes the magical scent on the wind and immediate commissions a perfume that encompasses all its beauty to serve as an ambassador across borders... like a Middle Eastern desert served with rose water.

Notas de: maracujá, melão, jasmin, rosa, bálsamo do Peru, narciso, baunilha e côco. O ano é 1346 e a XVIII Dinastia do Egito está prosperando. Reinado de Nefertiti ao lado de seu marido e Faraó Amenófis IV (Akhenaton) ... Mais do que o celeiro do Egito, o Nilo traz flores perfumadas e frutas, que não podem ser encontrados em nenhum outro lugar. Nefertiti reconhece o perfume mágico do vento e imediatamente financia o desenvolvimento de um perfume que engloba toda a sua beleza, para servir como um embaixador através das fronteiras ... como um deserto do Oriente Médio servido de água de rosas.

The Great Inca Priestesses

Notes of: Mandarin, Clementine, Jasmine, Mango, dark Chocolate, Musk, Sandalwood, Vetiver

Machu Picchu, May of 1462. The harvest is complete and the King calls a celebration day to be led by a priestess. While the shaman priests usually officiate at the grand ceremony, the King points out that the year will be ruled by the Moon, the feminine half of the masculine Sun. But who to choose? Who can create the bond between the Inca gods and his kingdom? He decides to select a priestess by her very fragrance...

Notas de: Mandarina, clementina, jasmim, manga, chocolate escuro, musk, sândalo e vetiver.

Machu Picchu, maio de 1462. A colheita é completa e o rei chama o povo para um dia de celebração a ser liderado por uma sacerdotisa. Enquanto sacerdotes xamans lideram uma cerimônia grandiosa, o Rei assinala que o ano será regido pela Lua - a metade feminina do Sol (metade masculina). Mas quem escolher? Quem pode criar o elo entre os deuses Incas e seu reino? Ele decide selecionar uma sacerdotisa por causa de sua fragrância ...

The Princesses of Venice

Notes of:cBlack Currant, Orange , Raspburry, Joy Tree, Blackcurrant Bud, Jasmin, Sandalwood

Venice, 1721... The jumble of fresh fruits (orange, melon and pineapple) from the open market fill the air as composer Antonio Vivaldi walks the streets, seeking the choir of angels he’s heard in his wanderings but can never see...

Notas de: Groselha, laranja, framboesa, árvore de Joy, botões de groselha, jasmim e sândalo. Veneza, 1721 ... A mistura de frutas frescas (laranja, melão e abacaxi) do mercado de rua enche o ar quando o compositor Antonio Vivaldi anda pelas ruas, buscando o coro de anjos que ouviu em suas andanças mas nunca pode ver ...

The Taj Mahal’s Eternal Love

Notes of: Grapefruit, Blue Lotus, Sea Spray, Rose, Jasmin, Musk

The year is 1610 and Emperor Shah Jahan is in love with his wife, his kingdom and the gardens of his residence, in that order. The lush beauty of the garden rivals Eden with its fruits (grapefruit, bergamot, melon) and flowers (lily of the valley, rose and jasmine)...even the water that flows from the garden itself is legendary and scented with the wild beauty of nature (lotus) and the soothing clean of water notes..." Additional notes include black currant, green notes, sea water, iris, vetiver, raspberry, peach, vanilla and musk.

Fantastic women, remarkable histories, unforgettable personalities, amazing fragrances.

Which one would you consider to express your personality?

Notas de: Toranja, lótus azul, spray marinho, rosa, jasmin e musk. O ano é 1610 e o imperador Shah Jahan está apaixonado por sua esposa, seu reino e os jardins de sua residência (nessa ordem). A exuberante beleza do jardim é rival do Eden, com suas frutas (toranja, bergamota, melão) e flores (lírio do vale, rosa e jasmim) ... até mesmo as águas que fluem a partir do jardim em si são lendárias e perfumadas com a beleza selvagem da natureza (lótus) e as notas suaves de notas água limpa ... "incluem groselha preta, notas verdes, água do mar, íris, vetiver, framboesa, pêssego, baunilha e almíscar.

Mulheres fantásticas, histórias marcantes, personalidades inesquecíveis, fragrâncias incríveis.

Qual você escolheria para exemplificar seu jeito de ser?

Photo credits/créditos fotográficos: the brand/Marca.

Left paradise, back to the city/Deixando o paraíso e voltando para casa

Voltando para casa.../Coming back home...

Photo credit/crédito fotográfico: + Q Perfume Blog

Trazendo sonhos amadeirados/bringing woody dreams with me.

Photo credit/crédito fotográfico: + Q Perfume Blog

Summer break/Férias de verão

Now seems that it is for real!! I am out of here!

See all of you soon!!!!!!

Agora é pra valer!!! Fui!!! Vejo vocês dentro em breve!

Imagem do mês/Image of the month - Polyff

Photo credits/crédito fotográfico - Photo®Nobi from What we know is secret, the amazing blog by Nobi

Polyiff is a polymer encapsulation developed by Fragrance House IFF to be added to plastic products or to use directly to deliver scent. It is made of complex mixtures of fragrance ingredients, dispersed in a resin blend compatible with the fragrance and its final application. It can also be use to release flavor, enhancing an aromatic experience through the infusion of flavor in the packaging. The slow release of the flavor is an unique experience for the senses.

+ Q Perfume sees many applications for this product: clothing, shoes, paint, furniture, games, grooming tools etc..

Polyiff é um método de encapsularização em polímeros desenvolvido pela casa de fragrância IFF para ser adicionado em produtos plásticos, ou diretamente para liberar fragrância. Projetado com uma mistura complexa ingredientes dispersos em uma resina compatível com a fragrância e o objetivo de sua aplicação. Pode ser utilizado também para liberar aromas, tornando a experiência aromática mais intensa e mais completa. Muito utilizado em embalagens.

+ Q Perfume consegue vislumbrar muitas opções de uso para este produto que vão além de sacos de lixo aromatizados! Tinta de parede, objetos de decoração, objetos para banheiro, jogos, tapetes etc...

Olfactive future Part I

Photo credit: Le Laboratoire

+ Q Perfume Blog never wished to be a simple fragrance reviewer, or just give stars/notes to perfumes. For that we have 1000s of other sites, blog and perfume critics. Here we need to go beyond and explore other many applications for fragrances. Here, we need to go beyond the flacon, we open bottles and minds.

Taste and Smell:

Harvard Professor David Edwards, from Le Laboratoire, teamed up with culinary designer Marc Bretillot, chef Thierry Marx and the FoodLab staff to develop a new project called Le Whaf.

Combining science, cuisine and fragrances, Le Whaf is a futuristic approach to gastronomy.

In a trendy water jug made of glass, with the shape of a globe you can experience an olfactory gustatory experience - 3 juicy recipes developed my chef Thierry Marx, called B52, Tomato Air and Martini Classic poured into the jug to form a cloud. The whaffed particles are so tiny that they will remain in suspension for a while. B52 is a combination of star anise, ginger and citruses. Tomato Air is a tomato soup and Martini classic is an encapsulated Martini with less alcohol. Inhale food, smell food instead of actually eating and swallowing.

This project was developed from the idea of Le Whif - the inhaled chocolate flavor and fragrance. It also reminds me the Harry Parr and Sam Bompa's walk-in Gin and tonic cocktail I mentioned once (click here to check it again).

Sound and Smell:

Christophe Laudamiel teamed up with composers Nico Muhly and Valgeir Sigurdssom, designer Thierry Mugler and Stewart Matthews to create an opera with sounds and smells, called Green Aria. Presented in the Guggenheim Museum, the chairs were equipped with scent microphones releasing scents. The opera presented 23 scents and told the story of the struggle of nature and industry.

Aerosphere, a company owned by the perfumer and co-founder Stewart Matthew brought the scent technology. The scents created by Laudamiel played a main part in the opera. They told the story!

The idea of mixing music and scents was first explore by perfumer Yuri Gutsatz.

After working for many prestigious French companies, Yuri Gutsatz founded his own brand in 1975 called Le Jardin Retrouvé. Earlier, in 1952 he was invited by Maurice Lehmann, the director of the Opéra de paris at that time, to perfume the opera house for a sequence of Rameau's piece "Les Indes galantes", an opera-ballet of the 18th Century. In the second act, called Ballet des Fleurs they released a fragrance called L"apparition de la Rose, developed by the perfumer. The theater was filled with the perfume of roses while the ballerina appeared on stage wearing a rose costume.

The perfumer looked for inspiration by watching the dancers at the backstage for several months.

Without technologies such as a scent microphone, the perfume was diffuses by the air circulation system from 1936. The perfume had to reach the auditorium at a given moment, so without computers to calculate, the system was trial and error during many performances, till a musical marker was settled to advice when to trigger the system and coordinate the olfactory perception with the visuals.

The perfume created by Yuri is sold till today by the brand in a collection of 3 rose fragrances and it is called Rose Opéra.

Vision and Smell

Also developed by Laudamiel and Thierry Mugler was the project of designing 15 scents coinciding with te key scenes of the movie The Perfume, an adaptation of the novel by Patrick Süskind. The idea was to illustrate scenes in the book by using scents.

The plot, known by most of us, is a macabre serial of murders by a young man called Jean Baptiste Grennouille, performed in France in the 18th century. With an extraordinary sense of smell, the young man who has no smell of his own tries to by create a perfume with the scent of 25 virgins. In order to achieve his goal he kills the virgins to extract the scent of their skin and hairs.

The book amazed me when I read it because it was so full of fragrant details and descriptions that I recall telling people that I could actually smell the words. Till the present day I described it as the best book I ever read, and I gave it as a gift to many friends, even before I started to be involved with perfumes.

It also moved Laudamiel while he was in perfumery school. What started as a personal project by the perfumer's interpretation of the book, developed into a major event when the movie was released. Together with Thierry Mugler they developed the fragrances that were sold as a coffret, and also special movie session with the release of the fragrances were performed.

Words became images, images became scents. Fantastic!

Kyoteau Bottled Memories is a book written by Della Chuang, a designer who is involved with fragrances. I interviewed her recently and you can read the article by clicking here. What is incredible about this book is that it brings her experiences and insights in the beautiful Japanese city. Tradition and modernity was filtered by the author and traduced in a fragrance. Design and fragrances bonded in a way that you can have a full experience. Rituals, culture and the scents of a city, booked and bottled. Despite the fact that she is a remarkable young lady and a friend, this masterpiece must be in the homes of all fragrance lovers! I order mine already!

Photo credit: Nobi

100% Love is a fragrance designed by perfumer Sophia Grosjman, a pulpy erotic, rich, velvety perfume with cacao, rose, incense and green notes created with collaboration of architect and sculptor Nobi Shioya. It was encapsulated by IFF technology called Poliff (you can read about it here in the blog!), and spread to form a pink heart, in an installation of a show called Plastic garden in Nobi's gallery in 2003. It was a center piece to express love.

Photo credit: Iconosm

Artist Laurent Elie Badessi and Laudamiel created a project called Iconosm where for the first time photography and scents were brought together in an exhibition. Images, sounds, colors and scent were united and specifically designed for each installation in an indissociable way, including one installation that was developed as a part of a study with NASA.

Touch and Smell

We all all familiar with the scratch and sniff found in magazines, in perfume advertising and children's book. But do you know how it works? The idea behind scratch and sniff stickers is the use of microencapsulation technology where scents are encapsulated in gelatin or plastic spheres that are incredibly small. When the sticker is scratched, the spheres are ruptured releasing the scent.

Amanda Lepore has launched her dolls with her own fragrance. Read about her dolls and other scented toys by to enter to my blog Trends & Blends clicking here.

The idea here is to be able to have a full experience of a personal object. The doll was produced with "Realskin" material and scented to bring "life" to the toy.

All those projects are really full expressions of art and amazing examples of how we can explore the senses, specially the sense of smell, the most neglected.

But besides connecting the senses, + Q Perfume Blog also likes to explore the use of fragrances in special projects and ideas.

We will continue to explore the subject in the next articles!