Showing posts with label Italian. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italian. Show all posts

Sunday, August 16, 2015

RUBINI Fundamental
Photo credit: + Q PERFUME BLOG

Launch: 2015
Country : Italy (Verona)
Perfumer: Cristiano Canali/ Olfactive Director: Ermano Picco/ Package Designer: Francesca Gotti/ Brand Owner: Andrea Rubini

Olfactive Notes: Bergamot, Tangerine, Hesperidic Flowers, Soave Grapes, Maquis, Florentine Iris, Beeswax, Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Vetiver Java, Velvet Accord, Leather

Description by the brand: "Verona, 1937. The brightness of colognes and brillantines Pietro Rubini provided to barbershops of the town is the first welcome getting into the small perfume shop downtown. A face powder says a lady and suddenly the air is filled in the fine powder and alluring smells. The heart of the scene costumes and lights exalts the dense smell of greasepaint he often gives as a gift to opera singers at the Arena to promote himself. The most daring smells though come at the evening mixing smoke and mischievous talks to the perfumes and coquetries Pietro sells in the wore houses after work. So I imagined these aromas layer and shine in the golden light of September that ripens Soave grapes to render a special man, his courage and passion for beauty as basic values now distilled in fundamental."
Description by + Q Perfume Blog: waxy-leathery, bubbly , relaxing chic!

Market price/store: USD145 at Luckyscent.


RUBINI Fundamental
Photo credit: RUBINI


In a blogger's life sometimes you face difficult situations. Once you are very active in the perfume community you start building relationships and sometimes long lasting friendships with perfumers and brand owners. Truth is that every time I am sent a fragrance to review, or simply as a gift, there is a moment of breathless fear when I open the envelop or box. What if...? What if I will find the fragrance a total fiasco and the person sending is a friend of mine? Yes, there is always that moment of pure fear and suspense. Sometimes followed by a huge smile; sometimes followed by a profound sadness and worry. When my dearest friend and confidant and blogger (http://lagardenianellocchiello.blogspot.it/) Ermano Picco  said he had been developing a fragrance together with Cristiano Canali for an Italian brand and that he wanted my address to send me samples, my heart simply stopped! Anxiety installed at maximum grade, I waited impatiently for those samples to arrive. I remember like it was yesterday the day the samples finally arrived. I opened the envelope and said to myself "you don't have to worry, after all Ermano has a magnificent nose and taste. He would never be involved in a fiasco!". I was right. Rubini's fundamental is simply A-M-A-Z-I-N-G!
If you loved Voluté EDT and EDP by Diptyque or Absolue EDP by Mona di Orio you will certainly love fundamental. They kinda have the same "aura".

It is no secret to me that Ermano loves irises Fiorentine and a beautiful solar Hisperidic note, after all he is 100% Italian and so it is the brand. The surprise really came for the fact that the perfume is around a grape note. Researching I got enough info to understand the idea:

"The Soave Blend refers to the combination of Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave (or Verdicchio) that make up Soave DOC wines, arguably one of Italy's most famous white wines. This crisp and fruity white wine, made mostly in the Venetian hills near Verona, is now enjoyed around the world, offering a simple and refreshing wine experience.
Garganega forms the bulk of Soave wines. In dry whites it provides structure, with its steely mineral character and fruit components of citrus, peach and apricot, and in sweet Recioto di Soave wines, it adds richer tropical fruits and honey notes. The Soave DOC laws stipulate that at least 70 percent of the blend must be Garganega..." (edited from wine searcher.com)



The grape note enhanced the irises' minerality. Beewax amplified the honeyed facet of the grape. Crispy and fruity, chic and elegant, the fragrance opens with a luminous hisperidic bouquet that later will develop into a more masculine experience.
The sensual masculine base took me to a trip to the Italian wineries holding hands with an Italian man whose casual elegance is the perfect mix of classic chic and effortless whimsy. 

Rubini Fundamental express style and grace, with a studied carelessness and a hidden sophisticated attention to details, that is the very essence of the Italian way of doing all things. 

Bravo Ermano!
Many thanks to you, Canali and Rubini for bringing a modern breath to classic Italian style!
Baci mille!





Wednesday, April 23, 2014

ANTONIO ALESSADRIA PARFUMS - A NEW Italian Niche Brand!

ANTONIO ALESSANDRIA PARFUMS SAMPLES

This week I had the joy of receiving the samples of 3 fragrances created by Antonio Alessandria. Mio carissimo Ermano was a super gentleman to make the introduction.
So here you will get to know a bit more about the perfumer and owner of the brand and his fragrances before its commercial launch!

A little bit about the perfumer:

Antonio Alessandria is Italian, born in Catania - Sicily. Although his love for fragrances comes from childhood he pursued a carrier in Electronic Engineering and started to work in the semiconductor industry (probably where he met Ermano, no?) for many years. The passion for fragrances could not be forgotten, so in 2005 he opened a niche fragrances shop in Catania after he finished his professional training in perfumery. Soon Bourdoir 36 became famous in the region and Antonio's expertise recognized in all Italy and abroad.

The collection:

In 2008 Antonio Alessandria began to create the collection Hommage à La Lune with 3 EAU de PARFUMS (Nacre Blanche, Nuit Rouge and Noir Obscure). Its debut was in this last Exsence - Milano 2014, to be launched for consumers this incoming month.

The collection tells a story divided into 3 fragrances, or 3 olfactory tomes of a poem dedicated to the moon, because Antonio feels that the moon is the natural expression of his idea of perfumery: Mystery, sensuality and seduction.

Note: The fragrances has in common not only the initial letter N in their name, but also the scent of a leather note combined in different ways in each fragrance. You will also find patchouli and musk notes in all his fragrances.

ANTONIO ALESSANDRIA PARFUMS



NACRE BLANCHE EDP - 50ml
DESCRIPTION BY THE BRAND: "The light of the moon, white as a pearl, enters the window and through a mirror illuminates the skin of a young woman, white and transparent as alabaster. The intense fragrance of the night blooming tuberose, drifting from the garden, mergers with the scent of a private chamber."

Olfactory family: Floral
Description: green, amber-oriental, leather
Olfactive notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, tangerine, petitgrain, coriander, tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, osmanthus, benzoin, vanilla, soft leather, patchouli, sandalwood, musk.

+ Q PERFUME BLOG IMPRESSIONS: It is a tuberose exuberance! It is very luxurious, very chic and it contains an animal background. It both sexy - carnal. As Antonio A. mentions in his own description...you will want to meet this young woman in her private chambers! 
Here you won't find the plastic doll hair note that I mention when describing tuberose fragrances. Here tuberose also has nothing to do with doll's hair or laundry! (if you are my follower you know what I mean!). If not - go to: HERE or HERE or HERE.

Top notes bring a citrus blast that makes me think of summer right away! The transition to the heart is quite fast and the bridge is the coriander. Slightly soapy, slightly green. Very gentle on the skin. The heart contains a chic and kinky luxurious bouquet. 
The image that comes to my mind is the perfect tanned skin and voluptuous body of Luisa Ranieri. Her full lips, intense eyes and class... yes darlings...Italian women are hot and classy...and so you will be wearing NACRE BLANCHE EDP.

LUISA RANIERI

LUISA RANIERI

If you are not familiar with Italian actresses you will see what I mean with Jennifer A. in Just Go for It video:




NUIT ROUGE EDP - 50ml
DESCRIPTION BY THE BRAND: A silvery moon illuminates the frosty night. The volcano looms volatile in the dark. The red glow of a sudden eruption inspires both fear and attraction."

Olfactory family: woody
Description: green, leather, soft-spicy
Olfactive notes: Bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, black currant buds, rhubarb, geranium, iris, saffron, black pepper, nutmeg, coffee,  vanilla, leather, patchouli, tonka bean, incense, sandalwood, musk.

+ Q PERFUME BLOG IMPRESSIONS:
This perfume is by far one of the best unisex fragrances I have ever tried - Black Bulgari by Annick Ménardo has the same quality for that matter. It is also one of the best perfumes I have ever encountered - for its personality, structure and combination of notes.
Nuit Rouge is the perfume of Russian Nobility Dvoryanstvo.
It is a royal deep red elixir with a gentle iris-y cloud. A haze, better describing it.
Saffron, coffee, patchouli  and vanilla creates an virile accord that brings a bit of lust to this beautiful perfume and that is why I also think of Excalibur and Medieval Kings. I think of sensual Igrayne dancing for the Knights of the Round Table.
I have been wearing this fragrance for 3 days now and each day I find another aspect to love. Another facet to explore. Another pleasure to enjoy.
If you relate to Russian Dvoryanstvo, you will find both austerity and attraction (Alessandria mentions fear...In this case I would say is not exactly a fear, but a respect for the power). 
Nobility - either Russian or English brings both sensations - we are drawn to their power. 




NOIR OBSCUR EDP - 50ml

DESCRIPTION BY THE BRAND: In the dark still night of a new moon, the memory of the light makes its way through the maze of the soul to lead the way along unknown paths. Soft as a cloud, sensual as velvet, sweet as sin."

Olfactory family: Floral
Description: amber-oriental
Olfactive notes: Orange, tangerine, davana, rum absolute, spicy notes, Bulgarian rose,  jasmine, iris, osmanthus, leather, patchouli, cedarwood, incense, amber, musk.


+ Q PERFUME BLOG IMPRESSIONS:
How can I explain what I feel smelling this fragrance? It is a combination of an old English austere library and a cozy hug? Or being the daughter of Jeremy Irons and receiving a loving hug from him? Wearing a fluffy cozy blanket or robe in a sauna? Crazy. Hard to explain!



If you saw the movie THe Book Thief you will remember the scene of Liesel in the mayor's library in his home reading books. Her beauty and the joy she encountered inside that library is maybe what I relate to with NOIR OBSCUR.

The thing is - the movie is too sad and too touchy and Alessandria perfume does not contain any sadness at all. So let's just pretend Liesel was not in Nazi Germany. Lets just see this amazing 10 yrs old creature discovering the beauty of words in a cozy library!

NOIR OBSCUR EDP has a serenity and a gentleness that makes me want to meet Antonio Alessadria. In fact, all 3 fragrances contain a large dose of gentleness.

Thank you Ermano for introducing me to Antonio and Grazie Tanto Antonio for being such a wonderful perfumer and a gentleman!
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