Sunday, March 15, 2015


Photo Credit: + Q Perfume Blog

Christopher Brosius is one of these amazing artists that moves you in such a way that you don't know if you get inspired by him to explore the world of scents everywhere you go, or lock yourself in his studio and proclaim eternal faith to him and to him only.
His fragrances are not just perfumes you buy and wear. They are experiences. They are smellscapes contained in vials that he carefully designed for his clients. His clients. I have to say that his fragrances are not for everybody. A CB client needs to be as creative as he is, as curious as he is, smart as he is, and most of all needs to love Nature.
If you don't give a special importance to your dreams, your inspirations, your way of expressing emotions and how you relate to the world around you, CB is not for you.
Expect to cry, to smile, to wonder, to be happy or even angry when smelling his vials. 

I had a project to review his fragrances since I met Patrick at Elements in 2013. Patrick worked at CB I Hate Perfume in Williamsburg - Brooklyn and he was generous enough to provide me 38 samples of his collections. I haven't been in touch with him since so I don't know if he is still working for the brand. I hope he is!

Visiting the shop that year I purchased AT THE BEACH 1966 which I have already reviewed here.

I will start with the CB Reinvention Series which is a collection of seven fragrances, which I have all the samples.

"The History of Perfume is old as Mankind itself. Over the millennia, the quest for perfume has expanded civilizations, changed cultures and brought the discovery of new worlds. But like the study of any History, exploring the history of perfume can only be done from our modern point of view. It must be reinvented in order to be understood. The world changes and we change along with it. We cannot truly comprehend how previous generations thought or felt let alone realize just how new and provocative certain perfumes must have been when first introduced to the world. They too must be reinvented in the light of today. All the perfumes in this collection explore some aspect of the History of Perfume. Some are recreated as closely as possible to what they may have been. Others are unique combinations of fragrance materials both traditional & modern – these bring “up to date” a classic concept of traditional perfumery". (extracted from CB I HATE PERFUME website)

In #201 CB93 Christopher Brosius wanted to reinvent the Eau de Cologne.
For this designed fragrance he used a combination of natural essential oils of Galbanum, Bourbon Geranium, Holy Basil, Siberian Fir, Scotch Pine, Moroccan Cedar, Candlewood, Sandalwood and Frankincense.   
Yes, it does smell natural, so if you are not into Natural Perfumery this fragrance is not for you. Slightly green, slightly flowery and slightly woody... it is a delicate smell. 

Also a natural perfume, CB's patchouli fragrance is a blend of 5 different patchouli sources and black pepper, with a woody base. Said to be warm, subtle and ever changing...Let's just say that it is not the best patchouli perfume among many others in the market which I have reviewed here in 2011, in an article called Patchouli Fragrances.
Tom Ford launched in 2014 his Patchouli Absolu fragrance as an ode to the iconic raw material, reinventing it and giving it a vanguardist approach. Sounds nice, but CB has done that already in 2005. I think that for those who study perfumery it will be interesting to compare the differences of perceptions of what means a contemporary patchouli almost 10 years later. 

I listed this fragrance back in 2012 in an article about Violets Fragrances and it is one of the most amazing violet perfumes I have ever encountered.Designed with notes of Elemi, Violet leafs absolute, Rosewood, Mahogany and Russian leather. Since Violet Absolute is no longer available for its extremely expensive price, CB had to recreate it. It is probably the smell of Heaven, when you are involved in a cloud of love and kindness. It is the smell of a bunch of little children with sparkling eyes surrounding a huge birthday cake. It is the smell of NOTHING MATTERS BUT MY VERY OWN HAPPINESS! 
How to start describing this precious elixir? 

It is one of the gentlest perfumes I have ever tried. It contains such a positive aura that you feel like taking a bath of it EVERY morning before starting the day. It is perfectly crafted and I would be this man's slave if he promised me a constant supply of this perfume. Yes, that is what is wicket about his perfume. Once you wear the smell of heaven, kindness, love and sparkling children's eyes you get to be so irresistible that lack sex would never be an issue anymore. Any person with a nose will want to smell your skin for hours, so careful with the seductive power of this perfume.
Once the kindness fades away you will be involved in a very sensual leather note that urges you to kiss and be touched.

If I was to describe this fragrance in a short way I would say it is a Victoria Secret's Angel Top Model. heavenly and sexy as hell!

Victoria Secret's Wing Model Candice Swanepoel

#204 TEA ROSE 
Simple and extremely beautiful, this fragrance combines real Moroccan Rose Absolute with Indian black tea.
The result is I was never a rose perfume fan but I must admit that there are 2 fragrances that I call redemption: CB I HATE PERFUME ROSE TEA and The Different Company ROSE POIVREÉ. I love both for the same reason: they are real roses. While in TDC rose comes with pink peppercorns and coriander, here you will find the perfect blend of black tea and rose. It is feminine, classy, extremely gentle and REAL. I loved this fragrance so much and I identified with CB in terms of loving or not loving rose perfumes. I know exactly what he meant.

To be continued... 

The Fragrances: 

#201/CB93/FALL 2005
#215/CBMUSK/SUMMER 2004 

You can order this collection in his website by clicking HERE

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