Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Idylle by Guerlain - The Multi man effect

Do you remember Hanna Barbera's animated series The Impossibles? Fluid, Coil and Multi man? Well, Multi Man for those who were not children in the 60's-70's, was a character that could create infinitive replicas of himself, which were often destroyed by bizarre villains, leaving only the original behind. When he was not enforcing the law he played in a band. His favorite saying: You got them all except the original"!
Well, I am kinda wondering if Idylle by Guerlain is not becoming their multi man fragrance, multiplying itself into hundreds of flankers in such a period of time...

The original Idylle EDP by Guerlain was the first perfume developed by French perfumer Thierry Wasser for Guerlain, and launched in with 2009 as a chypre-floral fragrance, surrounded by a rose - musk theme. As perfumer described at that time "a bouquet, fresh, and sensual, symbol of love".
The flower accord was composed by roses, peonies, muguets, lilacs, freesias and jasmines. The Bulgarian roses were combine with raspberries and lichees for a fruity touch. The chypre touch was a reenterpretation of Guerlinade with white musks and patchouli.

In 2010 Guerlain launched its EDT version - Idylle EDT. The EDT version came greener, more effervescent and more delicate. Idylle received a luminous touch. An re orchestration of the original where the chypre accord was untouched and the flower bouquet was intensified. Orange flowers were added and freesia notes were intensified.

Idylle Duet EDP was a limited edition launched this year, as a duet to Idylle symphony, "getting patchouli and rose to sing different tunes". Bulgarian rose and Indonesian patchouli were the main theme of this EDP fragrance and it was inspired by Berlioz melodies. Blackberries were added to give the fragrance a darker touch to go well with the velvety trail of patchouli. The perfume also received a dose of rosewood and got a subtle woodsy touch.

Also in 2011 Idylle Eau Sublime, the 2nd flanker came with a intensified flowery-fruity accord with peach notes added. Amber was also introduced to bring an woody amber-y touch to the fragrance.

Lusting for more? Idylle Extrait is launched after 120 years of the last extract by Guerlain. An overdose of exceptional raw materials such as Rose Absolute ad ambrette.

Not to mention the 2009 Limited edition for x-mas, with Baccarat crystal flacon & 18 carat gold stopper, developed by Ora Ito.

05 versions + luxury limited edition in 3 years... hummm...there are pros and cons. Positive: You have a vast array of Idylle version to choose which one you like the most.
Negative: It feels that it is no longer a special fragrance signed by Guerlain. It feels that they are replicating so fast that it is hard to follow all these launches.  

I confess that Idylle EDT works for me beautifully. Better than any of the other versions. So unlikely Multi Man, I hope these flankers will not be reduced to the original!


Henrique said...

Although Idylle Extrait is being launched only right now, i know from a very reliable font that it's was being prepared since the last year. And it seems to be an interesting interpretation, so i'll have to try first.
And if you notice, Guerlain is doing the same strategy they have made with Insolence: One EDP, One EDT, two flankers and one parfum. They have something with the number 5, don't know exactly why, but they are keeping all the lines with this number. See Habit Rouge, now you have one edt, one edp, one extrait and two flankers, the sport and now the eau. The parisiennes also follow this number: you have 5 feminines and 5 masculines. The Elixir Charnel Line also has 5 fragrances right now.
I used to complain about flankers in the past, but i have saw that the problem with a flanker is when it dilutes the identity, a thing that you see clearly with Givenchy flankers, specially the Very Irresistible ones.
A good flanker is able to bring another interesting idea to the original one.
And if you stop to think, the flankering is not so recent. Cartier was doing this at the 80's with some of their fragrances. They have a curious strategy, cause their flankers become obscure fragrances instead of being used to promotion purposes. See So pretty. You have at least three more flankers than the one at production right now. But it's hard to find things about it.
The fact is that you cannot deny too that this phenomenon is very profitable, but at the same time it dilutes money that could be use in research and creation of new things. But i guess that this is what public wants, so we will still see them happening for a long time. Altough, if all flankers had the qualities of Guerlain frags, the fragrant world would be a better place :)

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