Perfume & Rain drops - fragrances for rainy days

Seems like it has been raining forever... 
I left Brazil for a month and enjoyed winter in the Middle East. I found snow blizzards, scary wind storms and rainy days over there...floods to be more specific. I could not complain about it because when you are in a country where people name rain showers because it simply never rains, a flood is a sort of a divine blessing. But once back home I expected at least 2 more weeks of summer. Sun never showed up, and I am beginning to feel moody. So it is time to take the survival kit off the closet (raincoats, rubber boots, umbrella) and check the fragrances that can whiff the blues away!

But first, let's set the mood:

and now back to perfumes, listed in a randomly order:

1. Unknown Pleasures by Kerosene EDP- When you are feeling a bit down, a warm hug, a sexy kiss, a cup of a special blend of tea, a hot chocolate and a gourmet fragrance will do the trick. You should try all of them :-))))

Syrupy sweetness of honey, combined with zesty notes of citruses, classy notes of earl grey tea, cozy vanilla, tonka. To wrap up with a gourmet delight, notes of waffle cone. The idea here is to wear a fragrance that not only has an uplifting start, but also a cozy gourmet aura. 

2. Les Nombres D'Or - Vanille EDP by Mona di Orio - Vanille is know for its comforting effect on everyone, so I picked one that is really luxurious.

Notes of petit grain, bitter orange, cloves and rum will warm your heart from the beginning. Amber, tonka, vanille, tolu, leather and musk will lead you to hours of pure coziness. Vetiver, sandalwood, guaiac wood and ylang ylang are notes that Mona added in this composition that made me smile each time I wore this fragrance.

1. Jonquille de Nuit by Tom Ford EDP - When I first tried this fragrance in New York it was also a rainy day and I remember feeling happier afterwards. Months later I got to smell it again in Israel, also during a cold rainy day and it made be happier again. It is super flowery, super chic and outrageously expensive - but worth trying...

Notes are: cyclamen, mimose, angelica, violet leafs, bitter orange blossom, narcissus, orris and amber.

3. Bamboo Harmony EDP by Kilian - here you won't find coziness. On the contrary, freshness is the beat. Bergamot, neroli and bigarade will bring un uplifting effect, while bamboo, white tea leafs will complete the refreshing - chic accord. Notes of fig leafs, oakmoss and spices will enrich this amazing perfume. Needless to say Calice Becker style!

4. L'Ambre des Merveilles EDP by Hermès - This fragrance embodies mystery, sensuality and warmth. A bit of stronger emotions seems to whiff away the grouchy state of mind. Besides, it contains a golden caramelized syrupy aura...

Notes of amber, labdanum, vanilla and patchouli.

5. Coco Chanel EDP by Chanel - Chanel fragrances have a luxurious aura, and it seems that you can't wear pajamas and Coco...so it is time to move the butt off the couch, put some nice clothes and make up and wear this glorious perfume  - and DO SOMETHING with your life!

Notes are: coriander, pomegranate blossom, mandarin orange, peach, jasmine, bulgarian rose, mimose, cloves, orange blossom, clover, rose, labdanum, amber, sandalwood, tonka, opoponax, civet and vanilla.

Besides - I met this amazing guy during my flight back to Brazil, and he said he loves Coco Chanel...that put a smile on my face too...

6. Figuier EDP by Heeley - One of the most delicious fig fragrances I know. Fresh, green-y and pulpy.  It is also very solar, very summer-y. I can almost smell shells and sand hidden under the fig note. It has a sexy drydown..skin like feel...You will close your eyes, smell your skin and think BEACH BEACH BEACH. If you like Heeley - you can also try Menthe Fraiche, which has a very cooling icy effect that wakes up anyone who is a bit drowsy from depression...

Notes here are:figs, rhubarb, white tea, cedar, dry grass.

7. Eau de 34 by Diptyque - Anyone knowing this brand is already smilling. Their fragrances are amazingly well build. The reason why I chose this fragrance is the fact that most of the notes composing this one do have a relaxing, calming, uplifting effect on people.

Notes are bitter orange, lemon, verbena, lavender, grapefruit, juniper berries, nutmeg, birch leafs, cinnamon, geranium, tuberose, cedar, incense, patchouli, labdanum and moss.

8. Safran Nobile EDP by Technique Indiscrete - Everything about Indian culture is colorful and happy. You imagine colorful saris, fragrant spices, amazing combination of fruits and piquancy in their savory dishes... The music, the visual, the smells...India makes me smile. Here Louison created a fragrance inspired by an Hindu wedding.

Citrusy fresh uplifting notes of lemon and oranges are combined with spices such as anise, cardamom and  saffron. Jasmine (always related to the Hindu culture) is softened with notes of benzoin, patchouli and vanilla.

9. Dahlia Noir EDP by Givenchy - a powdery dusty floral perfume. Simply because it smells of J&J baby powder...so it feels dry...it feels cute...nothing more than that! Main stream perfume are like that...but in this case, it will do the trick. I promise you.

10. Thierry Les Parfums de Cuir - Angel - read a full review here. Also gourmet, also leathery...a complete treat for someone who needs to feel loved and happy...

So this is it darlings. If you are also locked at home because it is raining. If you are a bit down for any reason, or no reason at all, if you need a hug today...I blow you a fragrant kiss with any of this 10 scents I chose specially for you, because they made me feel better!

For Perfume Lists for rainy days already published: 2010 & 2011

Esxence 2013

Ever since Esxence has been devoted in enhancing all the excellences from the Artistic Perfumery world and in offering a special opportunity to new talents.

In 2013, from March 21st to 24th at the Palazzo della Permanente, it's back with great news: on the occasion of its fifth birthday, it proposes a contest open to young perfumers, with the aim of finding the fragrance which best represents all the aspects that characterize the event and, in general, this sector.

An international competition to celebrate an important goal of the annual appointment with Bespoke Perfumery which in 2013 celebrates 5 years of dedication to offering to its public the best selection of international brands which represent an enthusiastic and passionate world.

The Scent of Esxence – 5 years of Excellence will be the name of the fragrance selected by 3 juries – Noses, Critics and Public – among those entering the contest from all over the world and inspired by the 5 pointed star: history, magic, music, art... Held in a perfume!

The Esxence team is not the only one believing and trusting in the talent of young perfumeurs. Our contest, with the aim of finding the fragrance for Esxence, The Scent of Esxence – 5 years of Excellence, moved the interest of many important people of the Artistic Perfumery world, who have welcomed with enthusiasm our request to select for us the applying fragrances. We can therefore reveal the names of the 5 members of the Jury of Noses, that will examine the proposals of our young participants, to decide the 10 semifinalists who will enter the second phase, the evaluation of the Jury of Critics.

Enrico Buccella, Mark Buxton, Patricia de Nicolaï, Maria Grazia Fornasier, Cécile Zarokian.

To read more:

http://www.esxence.com/en/contest/

To find more info about the brands participating this year:

http://www.esxence.com/en/edizione2013/brand.php

To download the application form for exhibitors:

http://www.esxence.com/en/espositori/scarica-la-domanda-di-partecipazione.php

From Esxence Press

Volutes Collection by Diptyque - Best of 2012

In one of my posts in a series of articles about my last trip to NYC (in Portuguese), I mentioned my visit to the Diptyque store at 377, Bleecker Street. This shop is everything a perfumista can wish for. Besides all the magnificent perfumes and candles, the  attendant is extremely nice and helpful, and the decor is breathtaking. 

I spent more than an hour there, and left the shop with Volutes.

Volutes is the newest launch of the brand (launched last October), and the collection offers both EDP and EDT versions. I also got a solid perfume, but frankly I am not sure now if they sell it or it was just a small gift they give to good clients like me :-)

The concept of the fragrance is rather unusual - a tobacco-honeyed perfume that would develop beautifully on both genders, and perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin constructed an elegant and modern perfume with a bold note of tobacco combined with waxy honeyed notes, spices, iris, immortelle, myhrr, opoponax, storax and benzoin. He is known for his expertise and love for oriental perfumes, and Diptyque has never had one before in its collections. So this is also unusual. It may sound odd when reading about it, but it is really a magnificent perfume.

Volutes EDP  - Perfume sample

Photo Credit: + Q Perfume Blog

The duality of genders in this perfume concept was resolved with iris added for the ladies, evoking femininity, and  a woody leathery- suede facet to express masculinity. This woody accent was elaborated with synthetic creamy notes of sandalwood, cedar and violets. The spicy tons were given with notes pink/black pepper and saffron. It contains energy, piquancy and elegance, and added a vibrant and rich touch to the perfume.

The EDP contains more irises and styrax and it is a more of a flowery sweet perfume. The tobacco was muffled by layers of loud silky powdery iris and gourmet notes.
I think the EDP version is more suitable for women, while the EDT will conquer men easily. Which is also logic as we are used to find these concentrations in the market divided by gender exactly this way

VOLUTES EDT by DIPTYQUE 

Photo credits: + Q Perfume Blog

I sincerely loved the EDT version much more. It developed more beautifully on my skin. Although I am crazy about irises, in this case, I think the EDT is much more unique, while the EDP is average. That happens because in the EDT version the tobacco and saffron really stands out as a whiff of mysterious  fumes of exotic lands. It is more masculine and yet, still very beautiful on women. I was in doubt what to buy, if my beloved Iris Ganache by Guerlain or Volutes, and in the end I decided that Volutes is different, less gourmet, more interesting.

The dry down of the EDP version of Volutes is somehow boring. It lacks surprises. I also take it men will prefer the EDT version because it is more aggressive; while the EDP is more round, more purrr-y.
In the EDP concentration, the tobacco takes a while to come to surface and when it does, it is quite shy. Also 
vanilla takes over at some point, reminding that in this business nowadays, originality is hard to find.

VOLUTES by DIPTYQUE - Solid Perfume 4g

Photo credits: + Q Perfume Blog

The solid perfume is even softer and less spicy than the EDP. It has a waxy iris that feels like a wrap of a silky ribbon, and it feels more naive than the other versions. 

Perfumed booklet

Diptyque gift I got!

Photo credits: + Q Perfume Blog

I will not extend myself here about the inspirations and history behind the concept because other blogs received the same press material I did, and have already published it.
This is just one more opinion about this amazing creation, that in my point of view, it is the best fragrance launched in 2012, till this date.
What can I say, I left the store with postcards, a perfumed booklet that when you turn the pages it makes them move and the air smell nice...I loved this perfume and it took me  more than a month to publish the review because I was having a secret love affair with it. Now I am ready to share...

Um passeio olfativo - Parte III - SOHO/NOLITA

Seguindo nossa caminhada perfumada pela Big Apple chegamos na nossa próxima parada: o bairro do Soho. 

Assim como o MPD, o bairro do Soho é considerado uma das localizações mais fashionistas de Nova York, lotado de galerias, bares, restaurantes, hotéis-boutique e muitas, muitas lojas. O bairro tem um charme único, e eu não me importaria em ter voltado muitas vezes mais se eu pudesse se tempo não fosse tão curto.

Se você gosta de uma moda bohemian chic, uma das paradas interessantes é a loja da Nanette Lepore na Broome Street. Aproveitando, você pode experimentar o perfume da marca. 

Já West Broadway, 345 você poderá entrar no mundo da Anthropologie. Além de muitas roupas, acessórios e coisas para casa, você vai encontrar várias marcas que constantemente aparecem aqui no blog, como INEKE, NASOMATTO, A LAB ON FIRE, entre muitas outras.

Babka Polaca de D&D

Também na Broadway vale a pena reservar bastante tempo pra uma experiência olfato-gustativa na Dean & DeLuca. Ao longo de sua história, Dean & DeLuca ganhou uma reputação como um ícone de cultura de Nova iorquina e estilo de vida. Reverenciado como um centro para a descoberta de novas tendências culinárias e tradições culinárias pouco conhecidas, Dean & Deluca é um local onde você vai se deliciar com queijos, anti-pastos, pães, doces, bebidas, sobremesas e um mundo olfativo que é de deixar qualquer um louco. O Santa Luzia em SP quando virar gente grande, será um D&DL!

Crédito fotográfico: AESOP

AESOP - Nolita
Créditos fotográficos : + Q Perfume Blog

Quando você estiver pronto(a) para deixar este templo gastronômico, vá andando em direção a Elizabeth Street. Nela você encontrará várias marcas interessantes, verdadeiros laboratórios olfativos, como a AESOP, uma marca australiana de produto de beleza que fica no número 232. Você também encontrará fragrâncias, mas o que mais chama atenção é o design da loja que lembra um laboratório de química. Daqueles que a gente frequentava no colegial. Seguindo na mesma rua, no número 233 você encontrará a famosa loja no estilo laborátorio, a LE LABO, da dupla francesa Fabrice e Edouard. Eles foram meus primeiros entrevistados internacionais aqui no blog, e os primeiros a me mandar perfumes para avaliar.

Le Labo - Nolita

Créditos fotográficos : + Q Perfume Blog

A loja é simplesmente MARAVILHOSA! Fiquei encantada. Tem tudo que eu gosto!! As cores, as texturas, os móveis...principalmente porque eu amo a combinação de cinza do concreto com o marrom do couro! A loja é a minha cara! 

Le Labo - NoLita

Créditos fotográficos : + Q Perfume Blog

Os produtos estão arrumados de uma forma artística e impecável. 
Para os meninos indico sentir o perfume de rosas com pimenta, o Rose 31. É um dos únicos perfumes de rosas para homens que realmente funciona na pele masculina.
No finalzinho da loja tem um cantinho  mito aconchegante, no estilo escritório antigo. Achei a fusão de conceitos aparentemente opostos, laboratório moderno e escritório vintage, fantástica!

ATELIER COLOGNE - NoLita

Créditos fotográficos : + Q Perfume Blog

Andando mais para frente você encontrará no número 247 a loja da ATELIER COLOGNE, uma marca artesã cujos criadores de decendência italiana, Sylvie Ganter e Christopher Cervasel desenvolvem águas de colônia com a tradição das colônias clássicas, em concentrações diferenciadas, como as absolutas. Adorei esta loja pois nela você pode ver todo um processo de fabricação de embalagens personalizadas em couro.

Crédito fotográfico - The New York Shaving Company

Se você gosta de coisas antigas, de tradição, e qualidade de serviço, o número 202B de Elizabeth Street é ponto obrigatório. Voltar no tempo é simplesmente uma questão de abrir a porta dessa barbearia-loja chamada The New York Shaving Company.
Eu e o meu marido passamos pela loja e vimos um barbeiro fazendo um corte de cabelo num cliente sentado numa dessas cadeiras de couro antigas. Eu simplesmente não pude me conter e abri a porta, perguntando logo de cara se a presença feminina era bem vinda (algumas barbearias clássicas preferem que somente clientes homens frequentem o estabelecimento  - o que é facilmente compreendido - nós temos nossa exclusividade nos cabelereiros!).
Enfim, Fabrizzio (o barbeiro italiano) estava cortando o cabelo enquanto nós fomos atendidos pelo irmão do John Scala, o dono da loja, que gentilmente nos serviu um whiskinho enquanto contava a história das barbearias clássicas, perguntou nossa opinião sobre Babe Ruth e o baseball, contou detalhes sobre como Fabrizzio começou a carreira de barbeiro (eu pessoalmente achei que ele era neto de algum mafioso que fugiu da Sicília - ele mal olhou na minha cara...). Enfim, passamos uma hora lá dentro e foi uma das melhores experiências nova iorquinas da viagem. Se você tiver uma grana extra (não é nada caro), vale a pena fazer a barba e cortar o cabelo lá (atenção: somente se você gosta de cortes clássicos). Eles possuem 3 fragrâncias diferenciadas que chamam de Gentleman's Cologne. Comprei o Elizabeth Street para o meu pai, com notas de manjericão, alecrim, verbena, junípero, coentro, canela, angélica, musgo, patchouli e vetiver. Ele gostou muito. É clássico, fresco e de boa qualidade. O creme para o rosto também é bem bacana, com uma fragrância que dura tanto quanto a da colônia.
Já na Prince Street 123, visite a marca de sabonetes e cosméticos israelense Sabon. Uma mistura de Lush com produtos de aromaterapia definem a marca. Eu gostei muito dos produtos com fragrância de violeta.
Na Lafayette Street, 285 você irá encontrar uma loja da Santa Mara Novella gigante. Eu pessoalmente prefiro a nossa no Jardins (São Paulo), que é pequena e clássica. A loja no Soho é bem moderna e possui toda a linha dos produtos SMN, mas me pareceu que pecam muito no atendimento.
Na Bond Street número 9 você encontrará a famosa marca nova iorquina que leva o nome do endereço - Bond Nº9. Confesso que quando passei por lá a loja já estava fechada, mas eu já tinha entrado nos outros endereços nessa viagem.
Enfim, ainda no bairro você encotrará lojas da Body Shop, L'Occitane, Korres, Bath & Body Works e muitas outras. O Bar Bossa com a magia contagiante do sorriso brasileiro, o famoso restaurante Balthazar, marcas famosas como Chanel, Prada, Helmut Lang, etc, etc, etc... se você é um fashionista, perfumólotra, ligadíssimo em lifestyle e muito bom gosto, separe dois dias para visitar o Soho.

Obs: fica expressamente proíbida a reprodução e uso de todas as fotos creditadas para + Q Perfume Blog em outros sites. Por favor respeite a obra de outras pessoas.

A teaser to make you go MAD!

Continuing to post about Chandler Burr's opening, here are some exclusive pictures in loco. CB sent to me today via e-mail and we will have more to publish in the near future.

So thank you Chandler for sharing this special moment with me; and thanks to the photographer Ric Kallaher for the great images, courtesy of the Museum of Arts and Design.

I know you guys want some more...but hey! This is the first week of the exhibit...let's not spoil the surprise for the NEW YORKERS!