Thursday, September 30, 2010

Leather & Perfumery - PART THREE

OBS: If you wish to read the previous chapters - click HERE for ancient times, and HERE for The Middle Ages & Renaissance.

So, continuing...

With the improvement of the sanitary conditions and the development of the cities, the use of gloves to disguise the stench coming from the streets, and from its citizens (remembering that Church had forbidden bathing) became less and less fashionable.
As the Crusaders returned from the Islamic world, the belief that bathing could lead to diseases, to sin and to hell, also began to fade away. But the stinky clouds were still disturbing the noses of Europeans.

In the XVIII Century, the profession of master glover was separated from the production of perfumes. The art of perfumery received more status due to French King Louis XV.

The first leather perfume

In 1780 an English perfumer by the name of James Henry Creed created one of the first documented (in history) leather perfumes, developed for King George III. The other one was Cuir de Russie, created in 1875 by Aimé Guerlain, inspired by the leather of Russian boots (that were rubbed in birch to be preserved and shinning). Many Cuirs de Russie followed these ones: perfumer L.T. Piver launched his, Chanel had hers in 1924, Cuir de Russie by Vonna was launched in the 50's, Cuir de Russie was also developed by Robert Bienaimé (1935), by Un Jardin Retrouvé, etc..etc...etc... everybody wanted to have his piece of Russian leather boots!

Leather notes contains richness, fullness and an animal quality. Whether natural - from birch tar, castoreum, styrax, cedar atlas; or from synthetic compounds with names such as - Suederal (IFF), Castoreum Givco 169 or Iso Butyl Quinoline - 2 (both by Givaudan), they can have flowery accents, smoked facets, honeyed auras, powdery delicacy, round heavy oily touches, etc...whatever combination you can think of, leather perfumes are one of the oldest notes in perfumery still pleasing so many.

Many other sites and blogs have given their list of classical leather fragrances, many articles are defining the most beautiful ones from the past (early XX century), such as Tabac Blond, Bandit, etc... I see no point in being just one more. I will bring you a different list of leather perfumes. Perfumes that I think explored leather in an exquisite way, perfumes that brought new combinations this beloved note.
As leather is very versatile, it can be explored in many ways, for unisex, masculine and  also feminine fragrances. 
The list has a random order, so do not take it as one is better than the other because it came first. They are different concepts, therefore will please many tastes and genders. ...But from these 05, if I had to choose one, NOIR PATCHOULI would be my choice.


1.English brand - MILLER HARRIS  with their FLEURS DE SEL EDP:
A woody, earthy, salty leathery fragrance, with red thyme, coriander, angelica, rosemary, sage, iris, narcissus, rose, ambrette, bark, vetiver, moss and leather.
Perfumer Lyn Harris launched this fragrance in 2007 with a combination of herbs de provence, soy bean, silent tobacco strokes and a rich combination of vetiver, moss and leather. The leather here is loud, very masculine in contrast of the flowery-aromatic delicate accords. It is cozy and smoked, in contrast of the cold wetness of salty breezes.
The contrasts are a delicious concept, and I loved  the combination of the crispiness and salinity of the salt flowers with the animal soft masculine  note of leather.
One more thing to add about this fragrance, it is in constant movement. There is no particular order to follow, they will hide under others and than come back in a surprising way.

You will find all Miller Harris fragrances at Essenza Nobile. com/ and you can read a full review of this perfume written by me back in February, by clicking HERE.


A sensual, earthy, sweaty, leathery perfume that brings the memories of cowboys. A loner riding their horses in the savage forests and field of the old american days, with notes of geranium, carrot seed, clary sage, birchtar, cistus, jasmine cedar wood, myrrh, tonka, vetiver and sandalwood.
The great idea of this perfume is that you real feel you were dragged to a chapter of Bonanza or to Broke Back Mountain. You will be able to experience the ride into the forests, you will camp near the fire and you will sweat under the hot sun of the prairies. It is a genius perfume, intense, very masculine, with a jolie gay touch.

You will find Andy Tauer's fragrance in his website by clicking HERE/You can read my complete review, written back in FEB 2009 by clicking HERE.


This french brand has the merit of gathering together the most beautiful and amazing fragrances in one collection. All their fragrances are delightful and worth every € spent.
Noir Patchouli is a patchouli-leather combo that  has capture my heart. Every time I wear this perfume I keep sniffing my wrist as a mad dog looking for a hidden bone. To describe it better - I get into this narcissist ego trip where I fall in love for myself (LOLOLOLOL!!!).
A chypre, woody, unisex fragrance with notes of Patchouli, coriander, cardamom, black pepper, juniper berry, a flower bouquet, musk, vetiver, moss, leather and vanille.It is very Parisian, very bohemian and very nocturne. It is also very dandy, very powdery and sexy. Could be dark and heavy and rather introspective, but instead it is delicate, light but still bohemian. Patchouli and leather goes so well together like cheese and wine, croissant and tea, pears and brie, can't get enough of these two.
One final obs: Ida Delam's Nº6 for her and Noir Patchouli, for him and glass of champagne for both, will lead to an explosive chaude evening. You won't even notice that the Eiffel tower is not there!

You will find all the collection at their website by clicking HERE./I haven't written a full review yet, but I promise I will!


4. French brand LE LABO with PATCHOULI 24 EDP:
Same delicious combo here, of patchouli + leather, but the smell of manilla envelopes is a very exquisite touch!
Created by perfumer Annick Menardo, it has notes of patchouli, birch, styrax and vanilla.
Smokey, leathery and curiously round, this fragrance is hard to wear and also hard to leave. Once you have sprayed this perfume on your skin, you will get highly addicted.
Shocking as it might be, the animal tone is a loud MOOO, but so sexy, so comforting, so fulfilling that no wonder Luca Turin loved this fragrance. Me too!! 

Patchouli 24 from Le labo is like crazy sex in a cold afternoon, with Josh Harnett's detective character in "Black Dahlia", between piles of files and manilla envelopes.

You can find all Le Labo fragrances in their website and this one, by clicking HERE.


Perfumer Pierre Guillaume has mastered a delicate suede perfume with delicious alcoholic notes of rum. 
With notes of saffron, cardamom, iris, daim, rum, amber and musk, this perfume is sensual, velvety, soft and very warm. The spicy combination of saffron and cardamom is really unique and it is really an unisex fragrance. The combination iris-leather is really amazing. I love it so much, that I usually mix Patchouli 24 with Iris 39 of le labo - once I showed that to a French perfumer and he not only agreed with me, but I even saw sparkles in his cold little eyes.

Daimiris feels like touching real skin. It is elegant, it is chic, but it brings urges to be a little bit of a cannibal (LOL). It is creamy and rather edible ( a gourmand touch that I find very pleasant). What started with a smooth suede, became more intensified and more edible. The transition from one to the other is mastered by the perfumer, and all I can say is BRAVO!
You can find Daimis and Laboratorio Olfattivo at their website by clicking HERE.

to be continued with:

Idole by Lubin
Cuir Pleine Fleur by heely
Cuir by Mona di orio
and 1740 by Histoires de Parfums.

Stick around, grab a leather chair, 
Take a sip of a glass of rum, tea or cacao
Smoke a cigar etc..., etc... 
they all go well with leather!!

and wait for our next animal encounter!

For a Russian Cossack dance click HERE

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Problemas técnicos!!!/technical problems!!!

Queridos amigos & leitores,

este blog não fez parceria com nenhuma marca de óculos!
Simplesmente, desde que o BLOGGER resolveu fazer uma melhora no seu editor de texto, as coisas estão ficando meio esquisitas. Já tentei por várias vezes aumentar o tamanho da letra dos últimos artigos publicados e nada...

Se alguém puder ajudar...SOCORRO!!

e por favor me expliquem pq existe este espaço imenso entre o título e a foto do Wonderwood? Outra coisa que não consigo corrigir!!!

Dear friends & readers,

this blog did not sing any venture with a brand of glasses! Nor did I sign a partnership with an eye doctor!

It is very simple: since Blogger updated to a new editor option things are getting pretty weird here.
I tried many times put the letter size back to normal without any success...

If anyone could help, I would be very very pleased.

Thank you!!

and please explain to me what is this gap between the title and the photo of Wonderwood??

And why the pictures have to be medium size otherwise the frame is cut in half???

Monday, September 27, 2010

The new IFF BLOG

Dear readers, IFF has launched a blog about Culinary and fragrances in January. The name of this blog is CulinEssence. In case you haven't seen it yet, please click HERE
The chefs are called CilunEssence Ambassadors and posts are published by Chefs Florian, Kevin, David, Jenny, Michael, Ingreth, and Sarah.

They are doing an amazing job! + Q Perfume Blog has been writing about food, beverages  and fragrances and how the sense of taste and smell are connected, so I am enchanted with this project!

Wonderwood by Comme des Garçons - fragrance review

Wonderwood EDP by Comme des Garçons - review

Launch: 2010
Perfumer: Antoine Lie

Gender: unisex - + Q Perfume Blog thinks it is Masculine by nature.

Olfactive family: Woody- spicy

Olfactive Notes: Madagascar Pepper, Bergamot, Nutmeg, Somalian Incense, Cashmeran, Cristalon, Pashminol, Guaiac Wood, Cedar, Caraway, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Carvi grains, Javanol, Oud, Vetiver.

Description by the Brand: "An evocation of exuberance. A positive overdose of woods, woody notes and synthetic wood constructions (Wood gone mad)".


Silage: Good

Fixation: Good


✬✬✬✬✬ - impecable woodenness!
✬✬✬✬ - heavenly good.
✬✬✬ - good for lumberjacks that I would not date at all.
✬✬ - burn that wood now!
✬ - use the chainsaw to cut my head off, so I don't have to smell this!

You can find Comme Des Garçons fragrances at Essenza Nobile web site by clicking on the brand's name.

Created by avant garde Japanese fashion designer Rei KawaKubo, Comme des Garçons has an exquisite approach to its fragrances. Most of their perfumes present unusual fragrances in their compositions, such as sand dunes, nail polish, burn rubber, Acajou, Karo Karoundé, Magma accord, etc... If you love woody perfumes, also fancy-trendy-hard to find brands, Comme des Garçons is for you. (Also, they have a vast array of wood scents)
Wonderwood EDP is exactly what the name suggest: a wonderful woody fragrance! A thick wood trunk with wet , earthy roots. The opening is very dry and spicy, with delicious notes of Madagascar black pepper, combined with a pinch of the sweetness of nutmeg, and a slight freshness of bergamot.

Two elements bring fun to this perfume: the note of Somalian frankincense, which adds a burned scent to the woods, and the combination of natural and synthetic fragrances Javanol, Pashminol and Cristalon - 03 compounds created and trademarked by Givaudan, Javanol has a creamy sandalwood note, with a rosy twist. Pashminol adds the same notes as Javanol, with a balmy treat. And Cristalon adds a rosy, plum-apple accent to the fragrance. The flowery-fruit connotation here is subliminally. It brings a extra sheer effect to the fragrance.

Somali frankincense is usually composed by a number of natural plants, extracts, oils and resins. Burned for religious purposes, the Somali incense (luubaan) is made of golden frankincense and myrrh, and it has an aromatic, balsamic fragrance. (you will find this note also in IDOLE by Lubin - by the way, a much better fragrance than this one).

Rooty, burnt, fruity-floral, but in essence extremely woody, Wonderwood EDP is the sexy lumberjack fragrance. As natural and synthetics are the opposite, so is fire and lumberjacks to wood forests! And that is exactly what makes this fragrance interesting! In fact, from the development to dry down nothing new came along. Pretty known and found in many other fragrances, the notes of vetiver and cedar tend to overtake the entire base.

You will find patchouli, Oud and other delicious scents in the composition, adding a sensual touch to this perfume, but do not expect extreme luxuriousness.

If you ever had fantasies about getting lost in the woods and finding a sexy sweaty muscular lumberjack out of nowhere...well, probably would never happen in real life! (unless you live in Canada...than maybe....). But once you spray Wonderwood on your skin, you will definitely encounter Mr. Wonderwood, the lumberjack. 

+Q Perfume Blog has brought here in the past sexy cowboys, spies, skiers, mariachis, jet setters, etc...but sexy lumberjacks? This is the ultimate fantasy!
...And checkered lumberjack coats and patterns is always on fashion! (If Ryan Goslin can...why can't you, right?)

So + Q Perfume Blog once more combines exclusively the look with the fragrance:

But careful. Choose what to wear. We are looking forward the urban chic lumberjack, not a hillbilly look.

Go jog in the lost woods near your home. Maybe you will find that gorgeous man cutting wood shirtless. If not, spray Eau des Forêts Wonderwood EDP by Comme des Garçons on you and daydream!

And just to have some fun today, since it is still Monday afternoon...

Monty Python's lumberjack song - click HERE

Friday, September 24, 2010

Espaço Perfume História + Arte - Parte II

O dia 23 de setembro marca o ínicio da primavera no Brasil. As árvores estão carregadas de flores, o cheiro de pólen se espalha pelo ar, os pássaros constroem seus ninhos... Da janela do meu  quarto escuto os assobios. O canto é tão alto que não me deixa dormir de manhã cedo. Irrrita um pouco no fim de semana, mas geralmente é bem mais gostoso acordar com o canto deles do que o velho e barulhento despertador!

Crédito fotográfico - + Q Perfume Blog

Aqui em São Paulo presenciamos a chuva dourada dos Ipês amarelos. Símbolo do nosso estado, a árvore apresenta perfumadas pencas de flores amarelas-ouro. 

O Espaço
Crédito fotográfico - + Q Perfume Blog

E nesse clima perfumado o Grupo O Boticário presenteou os paulistas com o Espaço Perfume História e Arte. 
O Museu do Perfume, que ficava em Curitiba, arrumou a bagagem (pelo visto deixando várias malas no Sul...) e veio para São Paulo. O espaço ficou bem reduzido (210m2 - antes contava com mais de 300m2), mas pelo menos entramos para o rol das capitais que investem na cultura da perfumaria.
A crítica aqui não é para as empresas e colaboradores do projeto, mas para o Governo Federal. Mas nada surpreende num país cujo Governo não reconhece e não respeita o Patrimônio e muito menos a Memória Nacional...mas deixando o Governo de lado e voltando para o que cheira bem...

Em parceria com a faculdade de moda Santa Marcelina, e as empresas multinacionais Givaudan e Wheaton, o Espaço contou com um investimento de 1,5 milhões de reais. Dividido em 07 núcleos no andar térreo e mais 03 no mezanino, com aproximadamente 20 vitrines,  o percurso começa na antiguidade e termina nos dias de hoje. Uma viagem sensorial-olfativa que conta com um acervo de 500 peças.

Crédito fotográfico - + Q Perfume Blog

Dois objetos estão em destaque na minha opinião: um frasco de Água de Colônia (Kölnisch Wasser) do perfumista Marie Farina (a primeira água de colônia da história da humanidade) e a coleção de fragrâncias de Thierry Mugler, Le Parfum Coffrete, com 15 fragrâncias desenvolvidas pelos Les Christophers,  inspiradas no filme Perfume - História de um Assassino (adaptado do livro Perfume de Patrick Süskind). Que eu já tive o prazer de por as minhas mãos, mas muitos não tiveram.

Crédito fotográfico - + Q Perfume Blog

Ainda no andar térreo é possível conhecer de perto um órgão olfativo de um perfumista, fazer pesquisa  através de um mapa tátil apresentado numa tela, visualizar em vídeo várias campanhas publicitárias das mais diversas marcas da perfumaria nacional e internacional, e conhecer um equipamento interativo chamado Scentys. Disponibilizado  pela Givaudan, Scentys resgata a memória olfativa, estimulando o visitante a exalar fragrâncias que são dispersadas quando acionadas por um botão.

Crédito fotográfico - + Q Perfume Blog

Um vídeo interativo ensina uma aula básica de perfumaria e composição das notas olfativas de um perfume. Já no mezanino, o espaço Wheaton apresenta a história e a tecnologia empregada no desenvolvimento e produção dos frascos de perfume. Sim, porque um perfume é composto pela sua fragrância, frasco e embalagem! Um aplicativo multimídia permite aos visitantes dar asas a sua imaginação e a brincar de criar seu próprio vidro de perfume virtual. Maravilhosa contribuição da Wheaton, que sai na frente das outras empresas, contribuindo com a cultura nacional da perfumaria. Amei!!! Estão de parabéns!
No evento de abertura do espaço, o grupo O Boticário e a Givaudan mais uma vez arrasaram como era de se esperar. Afinal, quando duas empresas que possuem a maior expressão do setor se juntam para desenvolver um projeto, só podíamos esperar um resultado mágico.

O chef David Hertz da Gastromotiva
Crédito fotográfico - + Q Perfume Blog

O coquetél surpresa trouxe duas novidades: criatividade e sustentabilidade. O chef de cozinha David Hertz da empresa Gastromotiva apresentou comidinhas frias e leves, que caíram muito bem numa tarde tão quente e seca como a de ontem.

Crédito fotográfico - + Q Perfume Blog

Especialista em especiarias, os aperitivos foram criados especiamente para o evento, com o objetivo de instigar o olfato e o paladar. Porposta conquistada, estava uma delícia! David Hertz, que aposta na capacitação de pessoas de baixa renda, procura através da gastronomia, ofecer uma oportunidade de ensinar uma profissão. Ganhador do prêmio Empreendedor Social em 2009  o chef vem somar mais uma iniciativa de sustentabilidade social também proposta pelo grupo O Boticário, com o projeto Crescer, para jovens aprendizes. O Grupo pensou nos mínimos detalhes!
Caprichou também na lembrancinha do evento. Todos os convidados receberam um perfuminho em frasco de porcelana lindinho, com uma fragrância com a carinha da empresa.

Crédito fotográfico - + Q Perfume Blog

A mentora deste projeto, Renata Ashcar, tem mais um motivo para comemorar: o seu livro Brasilessência (inspirador deste projeto), este ano completa 10 anos de lançamento. A autora do livro e especialista em perfumes assina também o Guia dos Perfumes, publicado pela L'Officiel e o livro Banhos, história e rituais. Independentemente dela ser minha amiga e mentora,  mais uma vez fico admirada e comovida pela sua competência profissional, sensibilidade e paixão inesgotável pela perfumaria. Parabéns minha querida, você mais do que qualquer patrocinador, merece uma placa de ouro com o seu nome gravado em brilhantes! 


Sugestão de roteiro para o fim de semana:

Primeira parada: Estação Natureza - Espaço Olfato
Esta é a proposta do Espaço do Olfato, criado pelo Boticário em parceria com a Estação Ciência da USP e patrocínio da IFF (International Flavours and Fragrances).
Instalado na área “Corpo Humano” da Estação Ciência – USP em São Paulo, o local, totalmente interativo, desvenda um dos mais ricos e complexos sentidos do ser humano.

Segunda parada: Espaço Perfume Arte + História 
Endereço: Rua Dr. Emílio Ribas, 110 – bairro Perdizes – São Paulo – SP
Horários de visitação:
Terça a sábado – das 10:00 às 18:00 horas
Quintas-feiras: das 10:00 às 20:00 horas
Domingos: das 12:00 às 18:00 horas
(Última entrada em todos os dias – 40 minutos antes do fechamento)
Mais informações: (11) 2361-7728

 + Q Perfume Blog deseja ao grupo O Boticário muito sucesso neste projeto, que deverá ser uma semente plantada no nosso jardim chamado Preservação da Cultura Nacional. Espero que o Espaço do perfume ganhe no futuro status novamente de Museu, e um acervo nacional mais rico.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Espaço Perfume + Arte

crédito fotográfico : + Q Perfume Blog
Lembrança do evento - um perfume com a carinha do Boticário

Faculdade Santa Marcelina e Grupo Boticário
inauguram Espaço Perfume em São Paulo

A Faculdade Santa Marcelina (FASM), uma das mais renomadas instituições de ensino superior em Moda no Brasil, inaugura nesta quinta-feira, 23/09, às 14h30, em parceria com O Boticário, o Espaço Perfume Arte + História, na cidade de São Paulo. Dedicada à história da perfumaria nacional e internacional, a mostra tem como objetivo registrar 5 mil anos da história do perfume, sua relação com a moda e, ainda, curiosidades sobre sua produção.
O Espaço Perfume é gratuito e aberto ao público de todas as idades. Visão e audição são estimulados por um acervo rico em imagens, cores, sons, fragrâncias e muita informação, começando em 3.000 a .C. Ao todo, mais de 500 peças históricas, entre objetos originais e réplicas, ilustram e ajudam a entender a composição de um perfume, conhecer suas matérias-primas e ver os frascos que acondicionam o produto final – que também instigam a memória, e provocam verdadeiras viagens no tempo. O acervo foi composto com a colaboração de mais de 100 marcas do segmento de perfumaria nacional e internacional.

Fiquem por aqui e confiram nos mínimos detalhes como foi a festa de inauguração! + Q Perfume Blog teve o prazer de ser o único blog e mídia sobre fragrâncias a estar presente no evento para prestigiar a querida Renata Ashcar. Tirei várias fotos, aguardem!!

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

MADly in rose & Pillow Talk

To SP who I never met in person but pillow talked with many times.
There were times when a man and a woman met in real life. A time where facebooks, virtual sex and J dating did not exist. A time when movies had romance, a touch of comedy and naivité, instead of steaming 100% exposed sexual intercourse. I can't say I miss those times, because I was not even born in the 50's, but I do love to watch old movies at TCM.
Pillow talk is one of my favorite romantic comedies of all times. The first movie starring the lovely pair Rock Hudson & Doris Day was about two neighbors that had nothing in commom but a shared a party line. Jan (played by Doris) was an interior decorator who starts to get angry by the amount of time her neighbor Brad Allen (played by Rock Hudson) spent over the phone chatting with women. Specially because he was a composer, who sang a supposedly love song just written for them, to ALL of them, just changing each time the name of the new victim of his charms. As they develop a huge fight due to this line sharing, they meet at a nightclub, and Brad pretends he is a Texan guy called Rex. They continue to talk/fight over the phone as neighbors, and Brad suggests that Jan is jealous of his popularity. She brags about Rex to her neighbor and all the fun begins.
Pillow talk is a delicious comedy that brings the romantic times when a man and a woman would speak for hours, and flirt for days before jumping to bed.
As I sprayed Rose Absolue Parfumée by Annick Goutal on my wrist this morning, the first thought that came up to my mind was "this is a perfume that smells like a romantic comedy from the 50's!" WOW! This perfume is from the times when Rock Hudson was every women's fantasy and still in the closet holding a pink pillow!" LOL
Rose Absolue was created in 1984 by Annick Goutal in a composition of 06 different roses.
This soliflower perfume was relaunched as Rose Absolue Parfumée, in the brand's new collection Rose so chic!, composed by 03 fragrances: Rose Absolue Parfumée, Quel Amour Eau Parfumée and Rose Splendide Eau Parfumée.
The new "remake" is a lighter version of the original, composed by Moroccan, Bulgarian, Turkish, May, Egyptian and Damascenean roses.
I am not particularly crazy about Rose fragrances with very little exceptions, but this perfume is so vintage, so oldie but goodie, that I thought it was worth reviewing.
I read the description offered by Osmoz as a "timeless" fragrance. Well...really?
The perfume brings a lot of the pinkish aura of the feminine world. It does make one wonder why we don't pillow talk anymore. When was the last time a man brought you roses... or why men does not dress neat anymore.The start is not my favorite, but as the fragrance settles it does become a beautiful bouquet.Tea rose is my favorite note among all others. if vintage is a way of calling something OLD without being rude...well, this fragrance is vintage for sure.
Vintage but fun!
You can find Annick Goutal fragrances at Essenza Nobile that kindly sent me this sample.
To catch a glimpse at pillow talk, click HERE.

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Leather & Perfumery - Middle Ages & Renaissance - Part TWO

Katherine Heigl in gloves

As the use of leather comes from Ancient times, so does gloves. It is know that gloves and mittens made of animal furs were worn by cavemen to protect them from the cold. Egyptian women used gloves to protect the beauty of their hands. At that time, a common beauty treatment was to rub the hand with honey and fragrant oils, and cover them with a thin glove made of silk. The Romans put on the gloves while eating. These gloves were made from linen and silk. It was safe to take hot meat because the Romans did not use forks in those times. Such kind of gloves was called «Digitalia» and they were also used for cooking.
During the Middle Ages glove were means of protection to work and used by peasants while working with thorny or spiny grass. From the 12th century they received a prestigious status and became an accessory of first rate, decorated with gems, embroideries and pearls. They began to be worn by the church and by royalty. What started as a mean of protection to the hand, in the 13th century became a fashion ornament worn by people of taste and elegance.
Catherine de Medici -
As history tells, Catherine de Medici, born Italian and ruled France from 1547 to 1559, and had very little political influence as a queen, but a lot of influence on her court as a queen of taste and love for arts, architecture and perfumes. She even had her own private perfumer, who would follow with her anywhere the her court travel to. As she would wear poison rings to protect herself against her enemies, some historians say she introduced the fashion of scented gloves to mask the smell of these poisons. Others say she just disliked the smell of the leather of the gloves.
Masters gantiers et parfumeurs -

As civilization developed in Europe, during the Middle Ages, tanners and leather workers united in the trade guilds, as did the craftsmen in other fields. Royal charters or licenses were issued, permitting people to practice leather tanning. In the nineteenth century, vegetable tanning was supplemented by chrome tanning. This process uses chemicals, and today accounts for about 80% to 90% of all tanning done, except for the leather used in the soles of shoes and tooling leathers.
Cultivation of flowers for their perfume essence, which had begun in the 14th century, grew into a major industry in the south of France. During the Renaissance period, perfumes were used primarily by the wealthy to mask body odors, resulting from infrequent bathing. In 1656, perfumery received official recognition from the French, with the establishment of the Guild of Glove and Perfume Makers. Partly due to this patronage, the western perfumery industry was created. France quickly became the European center of perfume and cosmetics.
Patrick Süskind's novel Perfume, the story of a murderer, although sordid, provides an excellent panorama of the leather tanning commerce and perfume production for the aristocracy. Set in the 18th century in France, the book relates the story of Jean Baptiste Grenouille, a person born without any bodily odors or scents, but with incredible skills and incomparable sense of smell. At the age of eight he was sold and became an apprentice of a tanner. One day he finds a young girl with a marvelous scent, contrary to the stinky smells he was used to, found in the tanner. As he murders her by accident, he realizes that one cannot keep that wonderful scent. So he begins a sordid journey to try to capture the scent of women and to preserve it. he learns the perfumery craft with Baldini, a great perfumier, and from there he travels to Grasse to learn the technique of enfleurage, that he believed it would lead him to his quest.
For the movie trailer, click HERE.
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