Tuesday, November 11, 2014

FIORE DI BELLAGIO EDP BY SHELLEY WADDINGTON


What can I say about Shelley Waddington? She is a great perfumer. 
But I've already said that. 
That she creates masterpieces...I've already said that too. 
I love her fragrances! 
Are you going to keep repeating that? 
YES, till she stops creating them I probably will.

So what's new with Shelley Waddington? 
She created a perfume inspired by Zelda Fitzgerald. 
Well, that is not news; Zelda EDP was launched in 2013. 
This is another one!

Fiore di Bellagio EDP is the newest fragrance created by Shelley Waddington that seems to be in a retro journey these days. With Zelda she took us back to the roaring 20's. With Chocolate Trio to the court of Marie Antoinette & Josephine and Paris and London of the turn of the century. 

Needless to say she is very good at that. Pêche Noir EDP, a creation from this perfumer launched in 2010 takes me to the French Bohemian Era with dark smokey cafés and jazzy rendezvous like any other perfume. One thing is inspiration; another is time travel. Shelley Waddington perfumes are sometimes travel machines that will take you to an incredible journey somewhere in the past.

Fiore di Bellagio EDP will continue the journey to the Roaring 20's that started with Zelda EDP. This time she will bring you a luxurious and exuberant fragrance represented by an ARTDECO perfume. True that I have seen one before made by Vero Kern called Rubj EDP, but Fiore di Bellagio EDP brought something that IMO is hard to find: 

A REMARKABLE RETRO YLANG YLANG FRAGRANCE!

FIORE DI BELLAGIO EDP
photo credit; En Voyage Perfumes

Notes of FdB provided by En Voyage Perfumes are: top - Italian lemon and Citrus, green leaves and ylang ylang; middle - spicy carnation, gardenia and jasmine absolutes, Bulgarian Rose otto, muguet, violet, Bois de rose; base - dark vanilla, antique sandalwood, iris Fiorentine (orris absolute), costos oil, vintage resins, civet and musks.

Said to be inspired by Caron's Bellodgia (launched in 1927) and combining a high percentage of pure extraits, Shelley offers Ylang Ylang combined with spicy carnations, gardenias, jasmines, violets, roses and orris, bringing exuberance to a majestic status. 
Its warmth is presented with a strong fresh-green citrusy providing a vivid contrast with the curvilineal art deco bouquet that will follow. The opulent bouquet is somehow exotic-tropical and retro granny. Fantastic! There is also a vintage violet-iris-muguet combination that is powdery and pretty. As the middle notes develop you will perceive an extremely positive joyful alluring vibration. As flap dancer on your skin.



Drydown is mellow and sweet with resins and a sensual touch of musk and civet.

A versatile fragrance that despite its opulence is suitable for all seasons. I know what you are thinking... too bold for summer...well, Ylang tree comes from exotic lands with wet hot weather so... you will really enjoy its beauty wearing it on a hot day! 

Fiore di Bellagio EDP is part of The Masterpiece Collectio found at EN VOYAGE PERFUMES website. Sold for USD75 - 0.6oz/EDP concentration or USD95 - 0.25oz/Parfum Extrait concentration.


OBS: There are two other interesting perfumes with spicy ylang combination that I enjoy: Lys Carmin EDP by Van Cleef that brings to us a clove-ylang-lillies experience and Lys Fume EDP by Tom Ford, combining ylang, lillies and nutmeg

* Video provided by aaron1912 - youtube.

Monday, September 8, 2014

MOON DUST EDP BY MiN, MOON LANDING CONSPIRACY AND SPY MOVIES

Thinking that the United States has never sent men to the Moon seems absurd. To some specialists in the field, former astronauts, journalists, and a small percentage of people around the globe it is a supported, highly demonstrated and confirmed fact. Truth or not, these polemic theories are out there being debated over two decades and they have a name: MOON LANDING CONSPIRACY THEORIES. 

According to these theories NASA has hoaxed substantially the audio, video and photo shootings of the landing on the Moon by Apollo Missions, using the Nevada Area 51 to shoot the images. In fact, if you watch the video I posted you will see that it is fair to say that it is indeed a very polemic and complex subject that raises a lot of questions.

Credit: SG TROOP via youtube/FOX 

Another conflicting detail about the Moon landing is the smell of Moondust. In the Apollo Chronicles - The Mysterious Smell of The Moondust -  astronaut Gene Cernan from the mission Apollo 17 attests that the Moon surface is soft as snow, fine as flour, rough and abrasive as sandpaper, provokes hay fever and that smells like burnt gunpowder.

If Moondust was so abrasive as they scooped back then, how come it did not ruin the suits but it made some damage on the boots? How come it smells like gunpowder if it is made of silicon dioxide glass, magnesium, iron, calcium, olivine and pyroxene and modern gunpowder is a mixture of nitrocellulose and nitroglycerin? 
Curiously, back to Earth, the "samples" taken did not have the smell of gunpowder at all! According to NASA the samples taken were placed in vacuum containers that somehow got unsealed and in contact with oxygen and that actually they can't really attest how much these samples were altered by this kind of exposure. 
A question raises here: is it possible that highly trained personnel in a mission that costs millions of dollars be that careless about handling, preserving and bringing samples back to Earth to study? If so, NASA should review its protocols...just saying...but back to scents:

Describing the smell of the Moon ISS astronaut Don Petit states in the NASA website: "Picture yourself in a desert on Earth, what do you smell? Nothing, until it rains. The air is suddenly filled with sweet, peaty odors."


Eugene Cernan covered by Moondust - "Lunar surface" in December of 1972.
Credit: NASA



How do you find the smell of Moondust outside the Moon? In Nevada desert after the rain? Or in the new collection of fragrances developed by Chad Murawczyk and Mindy Yang from MiN New York

MOON DUST EDP is one of the 11 scents of the collection or "chapters of visceral moments/volume I" (as the couple is calling them) and inspired by the very description of astronaut Gene Cernan. 

Notes of flint* stone, ozone, tobacco, benzoin and black musk were cleverly mixed to give an overall mineral effect in this wicked perfume! *Yes, you remembered The Flintsones! So did I!!

What MOON DUST EDP has in common with the Moon itself is not the smell of its dust, but the very Moon Landing Conspiracy Theories, in a sense that all is questionable, all is arguable AND CREATIVE. I explain: Mindy and Chad had their share of travels; they come from mixed backgrounds and cultures; they have their very personal way of seeing the world and to express their feelings and creativity in scents. They want you to open your heart and mind and have your very special way to relate to these fragrances. They tell a story at the very first whiff, but you can use your imagination and rewrite your own chapter! Actually they encourage you to do.


Moon Dust EDP by MiN New York - Scent Stories Vol. I
Photo credit: Min website


+ Q PERFUME BLOG IMPRESSIONS

MOON DUST EDP is bold, powerful, extremely sensual perfume with a profuse performance. You need to have an outstanding personality to support this one, otherwise you will be swallowed by it. So if you like intensity and well designed fragrances this fragrance is for you. 



MOON DUST EDP is a black shinning Arabian stallion running free in the wild and need to be domesticated. It will sprint into your nostrils and be carefully smoothed on your skin. Once that happens, it is beautifully developed.
It also has a serious animalic facet to it that it is at the same time both mineral & salty sweet & sensual. The opening has a very unconventional mineral -  wet & hot pavement-ish kind of scent, as if it rain just evaporated on a very hot pavement. I love it because it reminds me of my childhood at the beach, when after a long hot day, the rain falls, bringing up the mineral scent of the sand, pavement and the sea altogether.
It contains layers and layers of darkness with a beetroot undertone mixed with the smell of dry dirt that is very interesting. Here at the heart you will be enchanted by a strong cedar scent a bit rubbery and very unique.
The drydown is very sexy due to the black musk notes. Slightly powdery, sophisticated and also slightly sweeten by a note of benzoin.
If you tried Black Bulgari, Fire Intense by Sonoma, Lonestar Memories by Andy Tauer and even Encre Noir by Lalique or M/Mink By Byredo(all reviewed herein the past) you are ready for the MOON DUST EDP experience. In fact it would be a very interesting and complementing couple's scent experience to wear MOON DUST EDP (for him) paring with Black Bulgari (for her)!
Truth is smelling the perfume I was taken to a Bond movie scene at the beach - in Quantum of Solace - in which James Bond play by DanielCraig (my favorite Bond) comes out of the water and is seduced by actress Caterina Murino on a horse.



MOON DUST EDP of Scent Stories Vol by MiN New York takes you to a journey. If to the Moon, to a Bond movie,  or any other place, it is up to you to smell and discover. I did not write my own story. My memory took me to a journey involving secret agents that started a long time ago with Black Bulgari. My evoked journey was to a beach in the Bahamas where Craig shows his well built torso and Murino shows the sensuality of her body and the curves of a stallion. The script was already written.

But let's come back to the city because most of us lead an urban life. Being more practical what I can say about the fragrance is that I feel that is more suitable for the masculine gender; for colder days and to be better explored at night (due to its mysterious and seductive aura).


You can order a sample or purchase a full bottle at MiN New York Atelier at 117 Crosby Street, Soho, NYC  or online at: minnewyork.com

You can also visit the brand during PITTI FRAGRANZE 2014 from 12 to 14th this month - Booth #9

My next review of the Scent Stories is going to be Magic Circus EDP because it has also a common element with Moon Dust EDP - but that I will reveal in the future. Stick around to be surprised!



Thursday, August 28, 2014

My very own MASCULINE BLEND by Ane Walsh

OFIR BY ANE WALSH
Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog/Ane Walsh

I love the idea of a couple sharing perfumes. I also love pairing fragrances. For example, when I wear Narciso Rodriguez for Her I want my husband to wear Encre Noir by Lalique - read the article when Mr. Noir meets Lady Rodriguez (obs: it has sexual content); when I wear Un Jour D'Hermés I want him to wear Terre D'Hermés...
So the idea of presenting him with an Iris themed fragrance was also a dream come true for me. The starting point of this fragrance was to develop a masculine version of my LA SIGNORA but with a masculine side. A bad boy in leather jacket.  I told Ane walsh I wanted a leathery side of my fragrance - she offered suede and I loved the idea of a soft leathery note. I also told her that I love pink pepper notes and that in fact I am in a phase that I want to smell pink pepper all the time. 


Fading Gigolo
Photo credit: NYT

PERFUME REVIEW

Name: OFIR
Launch Year: 2014
Customized Edition
Perfumer: Ane Walsh
Gender: Masculine
Family: Floral - Leathery
Rating: ♡♡♡♡♡
The olfactive notes are most of the olfactives notes of LA SIGNORA:
Bee wax absolute, peach leafs, rosewood, cognac, Iris Fiorentine absolute, orris tincture, iris mimosa absolut, violet, polen, calamus, zdravetz(*), Marrocan Rose, ambrette, white musk, tolu balm, benjoim, cacao, bitter almonds, ambergris tincture, earth blend adding hindu Musk, styrax, linden blossom and of course pink pepper.

IMPORTANT: I forgot to add an important detail in my last article about La Signora perfume review: TIME. Time is crucial for a fragrance to mature and since these both blends are "babies" at this point, I will have to come back later to update on my description of both fragrances. 

So, for now this is what I have about OFIR:

The opening is Boozy - dark with notes of cognac and honey, just like mine, although much less honeyed than La Signora, it contains an almost hidden rubbery touch to it that makes the entire difference to the overall concept. It reminds me of Oud perfumes but Ane swears she haven't added Oud notes. It does have that smoky musky resinous smell of Oud anyways...She says it is Hina from India - that mix of oils including valerian, henna(Gulhinna), turmeric, nutmeg, cardamom, jasmine, rose, oakmoss and many other notes (yes, Hina is quite complex to make!)

It is not a boyish perfume. You have to be a man with a huge M factor to wear it (or wish to have the M factor).
If you watched Fading Gigolo you will understand that one does not need to be good looking to have women on their feet. One needs to be a MAN with a the M factor. So in a nutshell OFIR is Fioravante (played by John Turturro) - a man who knows his way with the ladies.
The iris notes were tuned down, but still having a presence that makes me feel in heaven. It is smoking good and once the resinous accent fades away the leather comes forward and the fragrance becomes more sensual.




Fact is that this perfume is really more suitable for colder days for its depth and smokiness, which is giving me the urge to make a flanker already since we are heading to summer... I will still need a lot irises and pink peppers!

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

My very own custom blend by Ane Walsh

By now if you are still reading my blog and all the others out there and you have countless perfume bottles in your home (office, car, etc etc...) you are either a perfume addicted, a self-called "perfumista" or both, and you probably can situate yourself in one of the 5 phases of this perfumed relationship that are basically the following:

1. The Romance Stage: Oxytocine, Phenylethylamine and dopamine! You are dancing with many perfumes cheek to cheekYou are in LUUUV!
Falling in love is just like a drug addiction, but legal and so is the passion for perfumes that unfortunately although legal, very expensive at this stage. 
You want to smell everything on everyone! This is the phase where the interest of learning everything about perfume and perfumery is higher than taste. You will also tend to follow other people's taste for perfumes because they seem sometimes to know more about them than you.

2. The Love Hangover Stage: You are now 1000s of perfumes and samples away from where you started and just as in LOVE, you are no longer a perfume blind and you begin to smell the flaws. Yes, you begin to recognize perfumes and perfumers not only for they accomplishments and beauties but also for their flaws. Here is when you will encounter deception. You have a lot of perfumes in your wardrobe that now seems to be the case of asking yourself "what was I thinking?" kind of bottles. The good thing is that your nose is more accurate, more educatated. You no longer accept the opinion of other experts as the most accurate ones. All is arguable. You have developed your very own refined taste for perfumes.

3. The Stability Stage: For better or worst you will stick to what you define as a good perfume. By now you have already divided perfumes into 2 cathegories: loved as a concept but I won't wear/ love it and I will wear it because it is also wonderful on me! But of course you are still thrilled by new ideas, new brands...

4. The Commitment Stage: You select the best 5/10 perfumes of all times and these are the ones that you are really going to wear (some people have broader lists such as the 20 best).You will wear one of these perfumes till the very last drop before buying a new bottle (unless you found a real good financial opportunity).

Some people may stay or complete only these four stages of a perfume love affair. Some will be caught up in a loop where stages will start and end until the enlighten wisdom will come.

I took my love for perfumes to the next level where I found myself wanting to have something very specific. It is the fifth stage or Co-Creation Stage: At this point you know exactly what works for you and what is out there. You know which perfumers you admire, which creations you MUST have and now you want to go deeper into your love for perfumery  - which means to have YOUR VERY OWN BLEND! Some will be happy just to have a customized fragrance; some will try to launch their own perfume brands. (but there is a problem with that - read my posts called "The Trouble with the Curve - Part I/Part II). Yeap...Perfumery needs training and that means years of experience and that is exactly why I believe in what it is called Co-Creation. I am a lucky person who happens to know a very skilled perfumer called Ane Walsh who does not fear a challenge and has the heart of an angel! A Co-Creation means you need a partner to sin!

We started to talk about my very own perfume and needless to say IRIS is the olfactive note I love the most, so my dream come true was a fragrance that would explore this flower in the most fantastic way. 
I love most aspects of this note - silvery, salty, buttery, but I asked her to leave the green-y notes out of my fragrance because they interest me less somehow (although I liked Iris 39 of Le Labo). 
Ane had an iris root that was 90 yrs old (wow!) and that was our starting point. I also told her about perfumes that I love such as the Guerlain perfume called Iris Ganache that was unfortunately discontinued. For those of you who can't remember, Iris Ganache had a composition of bergamot, cinnamon, white chocolate, cedarwood, iris, gray amber, vanilla white musk, patchouli and powdery notes. It was launched in 2007 for the L'Art et la Matiere Collection and created by Thierry Wasser.
My idea was not to recreate this fragrance, because not only we respect Thierry's work of art, but also because I wanted something to call MY VERY OWN BLEND. I did wanted a chocolate-iris combination thou, but not the same as in Guerlain's creation. I wanted something that flirts with the Haute cuisine, but it does not smell like pastry nor a box of chocolates. 


Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog
LA SIGNORA BY ANE WALSH/SIMONE SHITRIT

The result is a gourmet iris perfume that she named LA SIGNORA as the Piazza La Signora in Firenze, Italy. Firenze or Florence in English in Italy is the region concentrating the most beautiful varieties of iris flowers. It is also the home of the Società Italiana Dell'Iris giving the International prize for the best iris cultivators. According to Ane this Piazza is an effervescent point of Florentine culture since its very beginning.

LA SIGNORA REVIEW:

Launch year: 2014
Customized edition
Perfumer: Ane Walsh
Rate: Sky is the limit!
Family: Floral-gourmand
Some of the notes of my perfume are:

Top: Bee wax absolute, peach leafs, rosewood, cognac.

Heart: Iris Fiorentine absolute, orris tincture, iris mimosa absolut, violet, polen, calamus, zdravetz(*), Marrocan Rose.

Base: ambrette, white musk, tolu balm, benjoim, cacao, bitter almonds, ambergris tincture, earth blend.

At the very first whiff you fell the sweetness and the warmth of a golden syrupy-green peachy note accord. It contains a rich waxy, slightly smoked caramelized smell that blends well with the cognac, giving it a more mature aura (taking distance from juvenile obvious scents such as Marc Jacobs and others with honey themes). It slightly reminds me the opening of L'Abeille EDP by Guerlain - a chlorophyl-ish announcement of Spring season, puffed with pollen, but here peach leafs and cognac were added - so it does not smell like a luxurious product you get to spread on your face like L'Abeille. It is a honeyed note with herbaceous undertones and a depth that is both beautiful and welcoming.
The transition to the heart is smooth and continuous. Iris announces itself a bit salty and mineral and slowly blends even more with the honey becoming more feminine, more buttery then earthy. From there it will starts to bring purple-ish layers of violet notes, becoming slightly powdery. If you were trying to say the word ZDRAVETZ don't be frustrated. If you don't know Hungarian it seems almost impossible! All you need to know is that it is a geranium with woody tones.
The best is yet to come! Once you were presented to a whole lotta irises comes my iris-gourmet accord! Ambrette seeds with tolu, benjoim and cacao are simply a lick on the skin.  It goes to a Iris Ganache aura but much more luxurious and less sweet. In the composition of Iris Ganache Thierry used white chocolate - too sweet and too waxy-vanilla for my taste... here you will find a more sophisticated chocolat-y touch. 
Bitter almonds bridges with ambergris and the earthy accord are the final touch and once the dream is over (some hours later) you have the urge to start this journey all over again!! Yes It is for me a dream come true to me to see a perfume where the many facets of iris are presented, one layering another. 

To Ane the perfume was inspired by a Piazza; to me it brings one picture only to my mind: Van Gogh Irises.

I recall a very cold and rainy day in NYC during one Fall when my husband and I spent almost one entire day in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. I sat down in front of Van Gogh's masterpieces and literally cried. Although I have the impression that these are copies because they have no protection whatsoever from people's touch and cameras... But anyways, original or not, it makes you cry because it is simply beautiful and genius.

La Signora is exactly what VG Irises is: harmonious, soft (gentle), sophisticated and amazingly unique.

The painting description by the Met:
"In May 1890, just before his release from the asylum at Saint-Rémy, Van Gogh painted four bouquets of spring flowers: two of roses, and two of irises, in contrasting formats and color schemes. Owing to his use of a fugitive red pigment, the "harmonious and soft" effect that he had sought in the Museum’s painting of Irises has been altered by the fading of the once pink background to almost white. Another still life from this series, Roses (1993.400.5), is on view in the adjacent gallery. Both were owned by the artist’s mother, who kept them until her death in 1907" (extracted from their website).


Van Gogh's Irises (1890) - Metropolitan Museum of Art Collection - NYC
Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog


If one image can explain more than a 1000 words, that is LA SIGNORA:


IRISES BY SIMONE SHITRIT
Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog


I took this picture with irises that I picked in my garden inspired by the painting, and today it represents a fragrance. My version of irises contained in a vial. It is the image of my very own blend!

Thank you so much Ane Walsh for making my dream come true! You are really a blessed soul! I love you!

Please stick around for the masculine complementary fragrance that Ane has also created for my husband so we can both share an iris moment together!

Dedicated to HF (the article, not the perfume) who seems to be caught in a loop between burying, denial, bargaining, betraying, masking and many others that will take far far away from stages number 3 and 4 in a love relationship...

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

MiN NEW YORK - Um passeio olfativo por Nova Iorque III - SOHO

Nova Iorque vista de cima durante o evento Elements
crédito fotográfico: + Q Perfume Blog

Para quem acompanha o blog vai lembrar da minha viagem para Nova Iorque em 2012 - Passeio olfativo - parte I e passeio olfativo parte IIA verdade é que em NYC me sinto em casa e desde então já voltei para essa cidade maravilhosa algumas (muitas) vezes mais. Um dos meus lugares favoritos fora o High Line e o Village é o SOHO - pelos seu charme arquitetônico e as muitas lojas de perfumes.
O bairro é fashionista e já foi no passado mais charmoso da Ilha, porém atualmente muito frequentado por turistas. No verão é um pouco irritante ter que lutar por um lugarzinho na calçada (mas é melhor do que no inverno, época que muitas lojas não abrem as portas antes das duas da tarde).
Bom, seja qual for a estação do ano, prepare a carteira porque é lá que você realmente vai passar o cartão muuuuitas vezes! Lojas como a Molton Brown, Aesop, Osswald, Sabon, Le Labo, SMN, Bond Nº9, Fresh, Atelier Cologne estão espalhadas pelas ruas entre as marcas famosas Chanel, John Varvatos, Moncler, etc... e pontos gourmets como o famoso Balthazar e L'Ecole


bolos  L'Ecole
crédito fotográfico: + Q Perfume Blog

Se você está ainda aqui...(kkk) :

Parada obrigatória para todos amantes da perfumaria de nicho entre a Prince e Houston - mais precisamente na Crosby Street no número 117 é a loja/estúdio MiN NEW YORK.

MiN NEW YORK
crédito fotográfico: + Q Perfume Blog

Um  toque de elegância no meio desse bairro efervescente MiN NEW YORK é mais do que uma loja; é um ponto de encontro de blogueiros, donos de marcas, ávidos compradores de perfume, cientistas ligados ao estudo do olfato e curiosos (inclusive, dentro da loja existe um local especial para esses encontros). 


MiN NEW YORK
crédito fotográfico: + Q Perfume Blog

Sofás de couro e um bar olfativo são ocupados por frequentadores assíduos e visitantes ocasionais durante a semana ou em eventos promovidos por Mindy a curadora da loja.  Acolhedor e hipster como o dono e fundador Chad Murawczyk, o tb chamado estúdio possui além de perfumes, produtos para asseio pessoal (grooming em Inglês), velas e outros objetos de decoração e um serviço de marketing olfativo e de concierge olfativo*. Marcas como Mona di Orio, Puredistance, Heely, Keiko Mecheri, Jovoy e muitas outras de altíssima qualidade ou difíceis de encontrar estão expostas de uma forma lindíssima, em móveis chiquérrimos entre outros objetos de decoração.
Como era de se esperar Chad e Mindy ampliaram sua coleção de perfumes de nicho com o desenvolvimento de uma própria chamada de MiN NEW YORK SCENT STORIES, composta por 11 fragrâncias EDP diferenciadas, criadas e inspiradas a partir de memórias e conceitos olfativos da dupla. São elas Dune Road, Long Board, Dahab, Moon Dust, Momento, Barrel, Old School Bench, Magic Circus, Onsen, Shaman, e The Botanist.


MiN NEW YORK SCENT STORIES SAMPLES
crédito fotográfico: + Q Perfume Blog

Dando uma pequena prévia das avaliações que virão em breve: MAGIC CIRCUS EDP é uma fragrância gourmet com notas de nozes cristalizadas, algodão doce, caramelo, bergamota, pimenta rosa, ládano, gerânio, patchouli e lascas de madeira. Aqui não espere por uma fragrância do tipo Angel de TM ou Jeux de Peau de Serge Lutens. Este fica mais para o tipo de perfume que passeia por notas gustativas sem colocar o pé literalmente na cozinha - como Bois de Farine da L'Artisan. 


Fique antenado (a) para ler as resenhas dos perfumes da coleção!BJOSSSS

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