Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Cozumel by Laboratorio Olfattivo - review

COZUMEL EDP BY LABORATORIO OLFATTIVO
Concentration: Eau de Parfum
Brand: Laboratorio Olfattivo
Country of Origin: Italy
Perfumer: Marie Duchêne
Gender: more Masculine, but I found it interesting for women too!
The Inspiration: Gathering reflections from a past journey, the nose has infused the olfactory pyramid with some Mexican sun, wafts of aromatic herbs mixed with the intimate smell of men’s skin and the wild smells of a distant island.
Description by the brand: "This aromatic, passionate fragrance oscillates constantly between warmth and coolness. Wild, narcissistic and masculine, it melds notes of fresh tobacco, Indian hemp and velvety wood, offering a light touch on the skin that becomes more distinctive once it has pervaded the senses. It is a truly new way of capturing male sensuality in a perfume."
Description by + Q Perfume Blog: RICH, WARM, JET SET YACHT, TOBACCO-HONEYED, GOLDEN.
Olfactive Notes: Bergamot, Vietnamese Basil, Aromatic Notes, Clary Sage, Indian Hemp, Blonde Tobacco, Amber, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Incense, Tonka bean.
Sillage: Medium to close range
Fixation: Great
RATING: ♔♔♔♔
WHERE:
♔♔♔♔♔ - Pelorus with Abramovich, smoking Gurkha Cigars
♔♔♔♔ - Le Grand Bleau with Shvidler
♔♔♔ - The Maltese Falcon sailing boat
♔♔ - a plastic boat in the tub
♔ - I got sea sick!
Where you can find the fragrance: Laboratorio Olfattivo, Aus Liebe zum Duft, Galilu.
If you loved this fragrance, you will also love Back to Black by Kilian.
If Back to Black By Kilian was a Sherlock Holmes fragrance, Cozumel by Laboratorio Olfattivo is the tycoon yacht lover perfume.
Back to Black starts with bergamot, raspberry, blue chamomile, coriander seed and cardamom; Cozumel starts with a very fresh aromatic accord of bergamot, basil and aromatic notes. Instant reference to sandy beaches and seashells, with an underline tone of minerals. While By Kilian's fragrance invites you to winter delights, Cozumel takes you where the European jet set goes on their holidays: to a yacht. The fragrance is a pure vision of fancy bikinis, elegant Italian suits & shoes, and luxurious coasts of the Adriatic or Mediterranean sea. Saint Tropez, Mauritius, Larvotto, Budva...
The aromatic, medicinal touch of the fragrance is extended by notes of clary sage and hemp.
Clary sage was commonly used by Romans in their orgies. Added to wine it induced alucinations. Hemp is a variation of cannabis. Combined, both notes give a "relax, you are on vacation" note. Herbaceous, green y and yet slightly spicy and anisated, this accord is very "summery".
Here at + Q Perfume Blog, we don't take drugs or get drunk, but we induce our senses to feel light headed and relaxed with noble perfume notes!!
The warmth of this perfume comes with notes of white tobacco & amber - a rich velvety honey contrasting the freshness of the start. Here, the fragrance tends to be much more masculine due to the tobacco note.
The most expensive cigar in the world
While Back to Black By Kilian presents the tobacco combined with amber, almond and vanilla in the base accord, Cozumel brings the tobacco and the amber to the heart.
I will nick name this heart accord as "The Gurkha notes". Wondering why? Because Gurkha is the most expensive cigar in the world. Not only because it will reflect the luxury of this accord, but also the smoothness.
It feels like the jet set had enough fun during the day with water sports, sunbathing, champagne and paparazzi. The sunset is already coloring the sky with tones of orange and red, and our tycoon will sit down to appreciate it with his best companion - the Gurkha.
temperature dropped down and our JS' are looking for warm clothing. Beautiful suits, silky dresses and expensive jewelry will come along with the velvety notes.
Cozumel EDP differs a lot from Back to Black. One is dense, gourmet, spicy and great for winter. The other is softer, velvetier and sunnier. Could be an option for summer and winter, depending on the atmosphere you wish to create.
Both have a smoky touch. In Cozumel we have incense. In BB we have Oliban, combined with cedar and vetiver. Sweetness for both in the end. BB with almond and vanilla - a pastry touch. Cozumel with Sandalwood and tonka beans, less gourmet, more gentle.
At large the fragrance feels soft and tender on my skin.
To the perfumer the inspiration is a trip to the Mexican beaches of Cozumel. To + Q Perfume Blog is a cruise to Montenegro with Le Grand Bleu! No cocktails with tiny umbrellas, no mariachis playing guitars, no tacos and no fajitos or mojitos. Champagne, Beluga caviar, Italian couture, classic music and velvety fragrances.

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Celebrando com Giovanna Kupfer/Celebrating with Giovanna Kupfer

+ Q Perfume Blog está celebrando em Julho, o seu segundo aniversário. Foram dois anos de muitos artigos perfumados, fotos exclusivas, entrevistas com pessoas muito interessantes e muitos convites para participar de matérias, eventos e festas off -blog (fora do blog).
Nada disso teria acontecido se não fosse o carinho dos meus leitores, as parcerias incríveis com os RPs das marcas, e o apoio das pessoas que acreditam no meu trabalho. E para que todos vocês que partilharam deste meu universo, conheçam um pouco mais sobre + Q Perfume Blog, hoje eu apresentarei a musa da minha inspiração. A mulher maravilhosa, batalhadora, linda e genial que me inspirou a entrar no mundo das fragrâncias. Uma pessoa que perfumou a minha vida desde que eu me entendo por gente, e que perfumou o Brasil inteiro durante muitas décadas.
Vocês irão conhecer a trajetória daquela que realmente pode ser chamada a Imperatriz dos Sentidos - Giovanna Kupfer.
GIOVANNA KUPFER
UM SINÔNIMO DE BOM GOSTO
O COMEÇO
Nossa matéria começa na Europa.
Filha de Nathaniel Falber e Helen Weinfeld, dois judeus fugidos da segunda guerra mundial, Giovanna nasceu em Roma, Itália. A família recebeu passaportes americanos devido ao reconhecimento aos atos heróicos de Nathaniel durante a Segunda Guerra Mundial.
Aos doze anos de idade, Giovanna perdeu a sua mãe que acabou falecendo de câncer, e mudou-se com seu pai e seu irmão para o Brasil, para juntar-se a outros membros de sua família que haviam emigrado para o País. E foi assim que o Brasil recebeu uma menina judia, que viria a se tornar uma poderosa empresária, respeitada e amada por todos aqueles que a conhecem.
Formada em artes plásticas pela Faap, Giovanna dava aulas de artes para crianças (sua verdadeira paixão) quando se apaixonou pelo empresário Luiz Kupfer.
Desta união, além das três filhas lindíssimas (Helen, Karen e Mariana) surgiu a semente de um futuro brilhante: Giovanna Baby.
Em 1972 Giovanna criava roupas para suas filhas pequenas. Seu senso de estética e seu extremo bom gosto começou chamar a atenção de outras mamães. A verdade é que naquela década, o Brasil não possuia moda infantil como nos dias de hoje. E Giovanna logo percebeu que existia uma oportunidade de desenvolver o seu talento, ou seja, dar para as crianças aquilo que elas queriam - conforto e estilo.
Sua primeira loja no bairro dos Jardins em São Paulo, não tinha nome na porta, mas tinha uma fachada inteiramente pintada de rosa. Uma loja conceitual, com decoração lúdica e roupas de design exclusivos e diferenciados. Bichos, brinquedos e bonecas enfeitavam a loja e faziam a nossa alegria. Lá, quem reinava éramos nós, as crianças.
NASCE UM CONCEITO OLFATIVO
Hoje em dia está na moda aromatizar estabelecimentos comercias, hotéis, shoppings e lojas. Marketing Olfativo é uma das tendências mais modernas de estratégia de venda. Mas será que isso realmente foi inventado pelos americanos e europeus e estamos copiando?
Vocês ficarão surpresos ao saber que na verdade, que Giovanna Kupfer, a muitas décadas atrás criou seu logo olfativo e aromatizou seus produtos e sua loja. Uma invenção que foi criada e desenvolvida somente pela mente brilhante e visão avançada de Giovanna.
Para ela, aquele mundo encantado e lúdico que ela iria oferecer as crianças e seus pais deveria ser perfumado. Partiu então para a sede da Firmenich na Suiça com a mala repleta de idéias. Fazer um perfume totalmente natural que pudesse ser usado por todas crianças e que refletisse seu amor por elas.
Giovanna encontrou muitas dificuldades em ser recebida para expor suas idéias, foi até ignorada. Mas sua perseverança e insistência (algumas das qualidades mais fortes de sua personalidade) acabou por conquistar os executivos suiços. Nascia então a colônia Giovanna Baby. Engarrafada em vidros de remédio e tampa de porcelana rosa, com rótulos colados a mão um a um. O perfume que iria encantar por muitas gerações, tinha originalmente, notas de alecrim, lavanda, lavandim, rosa, gerânio, sândalo, musk e baunilha.
Frasco estilizado
GIOVANNA BABY EDC
A sua genialidade e visão empresarial não parou por ai.
Sem muito capital para fazer publicidade e divulgar a marca, Giovanna abriu suas portas nas vésperas do Natal. Naquela madrugada, ela e um funcionário derramaram com conchas para sopa, litros de perfume Giovanna Baby pelas calçadas do bairro. A fragrância foi espalhada da porta para baixo, e quando o sol começou a brilhar, toda a região dos Jardins acordou inebriada com o perfume. Todo mundo queria saber de onde vinha aquele cheirinho tão especial. Alameda Franca era o endereço das gavetas, bonecas, sachês, roupas e ambiente perfumados. A partir daí, o sonho de toda criança era ter uma boneca pintada a mão e cheirosa da Giovanna Baby. O sonho de toda mãe era ter sachês perfumados nas gavetas do quarto do bebê. Todos nós queríamos e trouxemos para casa um pouco do amor e dos sonhos de Giovanna. Ela estava presente nas nossas vidas de modo permanente.
UMA DAS LOJAS ENCANTADAS DA MARCA
A marca cresceu e muitas lojas foram abertas (28 lojas e 700 franquias), porém a qualidade dos produtos e dos serviços jamais diminuiu. Giovanna e seu querido Luiz cuidavam de seus negócios como uma quarta filha. Cresceu tanto que chegou a ter endereço na Quinta Avenida em Nova York, num espaço maravilhoso dentro da exclusiva loja Bergdorf Goodman. A marca também era vendida nas Lojas Neiman Marcus, outro endereço chique da cidade.
O Perfume, que já era indicado por todos pediatras, fazia concorrência com a gigante Johnson & Johnson. Um produto que começou de um sonho e destinado aos bêbes e as crianças acabou se transformando numa febre nacional. Todo mundo dava de presente para a namorada um perfume Giovanna Baby. Adolescentes e adultos (inclusive o público masculino) adotaram o perfume.
Além de logo olfativo, marketing olfativo, tecidos 100% orgânicos e ações sociais voltadas aos seus funcionários, conceitos que ela já naquela época adotava (idéias que estão em pleno vapor 40 anos depois), Giovanna criou um outro conceito que poucos sabem ser de sua autoria. Você se acha moderninho por frequentar o Armani Café ou outras lojas que possuem espaços gourmet, como a Daslu? Nos anos 70/80, Giovanna criou a Giovanna Mother, uma loja para as mulheres grávidas e futuras clientes da Giovanna Baby. Dentro dela existia um espaço para tomar chás e chocolates quentes, com croissants de chocolate que eram um sonho. Doces e bolos eram servidos nas tardes chiques paulistanas. Um espaço gourmet dentro da loja onde as mulheres se encontravam para conversar, descansar um pouquinho e fazer compras, muitas compras.
Os anos passaram e Giovanna Baby já estava consagrada como a colônia brasileira de maior sucesso de vendas. O perfume recebeu uma nova embalagem, com design avançado que lembrava o formato de um corpinho de bebê (que chegou a ser copiado por várias marcas, anos depois). A linha foi ampliada oferecendo cremes, shampoos e outros produtos foram desenvolvidos. Tudo ia bem para a família Kupfer, o sonho tinha se tornado realidade.
O CAMINHO DAS PEDRAS
SPA JÁ
Giovanna Kupfer perdeu seu marido para o câncer, e logo após a sua morte a marca sofreu grandes transformações. Após inúmeras batalhas na justiça, Giovanna acabou perdendo o seu segundo grande amor - sua fábrica de sonhos.
Em busca de um novo caminho, embarcou de volta para os Estados Unidos onde começou um novo sonho. Lá conheceu James, seu segundo marido, mas a felicidade não veio sozinha. Giovanna também contraiu câncer e está atualmente vencendo bravamente, dia após dia, a sua própria batalha (que ela vai vencer, tenho certeza!).
Filhas crescidas e encaminhadas, netinhos nascendo, Giovanna passou a se dedicar a um projeto totalmente diferente: um Spa com tratamentos não invasivos, com produtos orgânicos e serviços de altíssima qualidade profissional, que oferecem benefícios verdadeiros e de longo prazo.
A experiência acumulada esses anos todos, aliada ao profissionalismo e ao amor ao próximo, tornou seu novo endereço famoso. Produtos inovadores, técnicas internacionais e brasileiras são oferecidas com sofisticação e carinho. Celebridades frequentam, mas segundo ela, todos são celebredidades em seu Spa, batizado de Spa Já.
O FUTURO PROMETE
Uma mulher que conheceu a dor e o sofrimento da guerra; a dedicação pelo trabalho; a riqueza alcançada e o luxo que ela proporciona; a decepção e a dor da perda de entes queridos e de tudo que construiu; a fraqueza da doença e a força interior de querer continuar viva, não vai parar por aqui. Como era esperado, Giovanna é movida por sonhos.
Aquela que eu chamo de Imperatriz dos Sentidos, por ter explorado a visão, o tato, o paladar e principalmente o olfato de uma forma tão completa e tão maravilhosa, como ninguém mais conseguirá fazer, está se dedicando a um novo projeto, que segundo ela, será o seu verdadeiro legado, seu presente ao mundo. Por enquanto o segredo está guardado, mas detalhes serão revelados quando ela me der o sinal verde. Prometo.
Uma coisa posso dizer: é um dos sonhos mais fantástico que ela já teve!
Obs.: Os produtos Giovanna Baby vendidos atualmente foram modificados e não possuem sua fragrância original. E na minha opinião pessoal, não possuem o estilo, a qualidade e o valor histórico dos originais.
Giovanna, minha querida Giovanna,
Se eu aprendi um pouco do que você me ensinou, se eu recebi um pouco desta sua energia e vontade de realizar coisas, se eu consegui absorver um pouco da sua riqueza interior e intelectual minha amiga, já ganhei um presente de valor infinito.
Se o no mundo existe mais Giovannas, ele com certeza seria cor de rosa.
É com muito carinho e respeito que eu dedico esse meu espaço perfumado e o meu trabalho a você. Eles são, antes de qualquer coisa, inspirados em você e no seu senso de estética, profissionalismo e amor pelas fragrâncias.
Continue perfumando nossas vidas, como somente você sabe fazer.
Batalhas judiciais são perdidas... mas a nossas memórias não!
Com amor, Simone Shitrit.

English Version:

+ Q Perfume Blog is celebrating this July 17th its second anniversary. It has been two years of many scented articles, exclusive photos, interviews with very interesting people, and many invitations to participate as consultant for beauty magazines, many fragrant events & parties off-blog. None of this would have happened if not for the kindness of my readers, the partnerships with the RPs of incredible brands, and support of people who believed in my work. I wish to thank all of you! I also wish to share a little bit more about + Q Perfume Blog. So today I will present you the muse of my inspiration: a wonderful, hardworking, beautiful and brilliant woman who has inspired me to enter the world of fragrances. The person who perfumed my life since my early childhood, and the woman who perfumed our entire country – Brazil - for many decades.

You will ready the incredible life story of the only person who can be really called the Empress of the Senses - Giovanna Kupfer.

THE EARLY DAYS

Our story begans in Europe, after Second World War. When the Jewish couple Nathaniel Falber and Helen Weinfel left Poland to marry in Bucarest. Later, their daughter Giovanna was born in Rome, Italy. The entire family received U.S. passports due to the recognition of the heroics of Nathaniel during the war (he had helped many refugees, including Giovanna’s mother), therefore Giovanna, her brother and parents moved to the USA. At the age of twelve years old, she lost her mother who died of cancer. The family moved to Brazil to join the other members of her family, who had emigrated to São Paulo City. And this is how Brazil has received a Jewish girl, who was to become a powerful businesswoman, respected and beloved by all who ever known her.

Graduated in fine arts in one of the best Universities of the country, Giovanna was teaching art classes for children (her true passion) when she fell in love with Luiz Kupfer, a Jewish brazilian businessman. In addition to three beautiful daughters (Helen, Karen and Marian) born from this beautiful marriage, the seed of a bright future was planted:the brand Giovanna Baby. In 1972 Giovanna was creating clothes for her young daughters. Her sense of aesthetics and her good taste began to draw attention from other moms. The truth is that Brazil did not have developed fashion concepts for children, like we find today. Giovanna soon realized that this was an opportunity to explore and develop her most beautiful talent - to give children what they wanted with comfort and style. Her first store in one of the fanciest neighborhoods of São Paulo (Jardins - where you find today all the most luxurious and expensive international brands, such as Versace, Gucci, Armani, Louis Vuitton and many others) had no name on the door. It was a pink mystery spot soon to be discovered by all of us. It was a concept store, decorated with a playful decor and exclusive & unique clothing design. Animals, toys and dolls adorned the shop and made our joy. There, in her kingdom, the children ruled. We ruled!

THE BIRTH OF AN OLFACTIVE CONCEPT

Olfactory Marketing is one of the most modern trends of sales strategies. Today many commercial establishments, hotels, malls and shops are using fragrances to attract more clients. But was it really invented by Americans and Europeans and we Brazilians are copying? You will be surprised to learn that in fact, Giovanna Kupfer created her olfactive logo, and has scented her products and store many decades ago. An invention that was created and developed solely by the brilliant mind and futuristic vision of The Empress. To her, that playful enchanted world she had created for the children and their parents had be fragrant. In order to create a 100% natural perfume that could be worn by all children, and that would express her love for them, she traveled to the headquarters of Firmenich in Switzerland, with the suitcase full of ideas. She was not received with opened arms. In fact she was ignored. But her perseverance and insistence (some of the strongest qualities of her personality) ended up winning heart of the cold Swiss executives. It was born Giovanna Baby – the most amazing lavender for babies & kids ever created. Bottled in glass vials for cough medicine, a cap made of pink porcelain, with labels pasted one by one by her own hands. The perfume that would become the delight of many generations, had notes of rosemary, lavender, lavandim, rose, geranium, sandalwood, musk and vanilla. Her genius and entrepreneurial vision does not end there. Without much capital to invest in advertising and publicity of the brand, Giovanna opened the doors of her shop on Christmas’ Eve. Very early in the morning in that same day, she and an employee poured liters of the fragrance Giovanna Baby on the sidewalks of the neighborhood with a soup-serving spoon. The fragrance was spread from her shop entrance down the street, and when the sun began to shine, the whole neighborhood was inebriated by the amazing perfume. Everyone wanted to know where that smell was coming from. Alameda Franca St. was the address of the scented cabinets, drawers, dolls, sachets, clothing - her fragrant kingdom. From that day on, the dream of every child was to have a handmade painted doll's smelling of Giovanna Baby’s lavender. Every mother's dream was to have scented sachets in the drawers of her baby's room. All we wanted and brought home was a little bit of the love and dreams of Giovanna Kupfer. From that day on she was also present in our lives permanently.

THE EXPANSION

The brand expanded, and many shops were open (28 stores and 700 franchise units), but the quality of products and services was never diminished. Giovanna and her beloved Luiz took care of business like a fourth daughter. The brand became so big that she went international by having a spot in one of the most valuable addresses of New York City – The Fifth Avenue, a boutique inside the exclusive Bergdorf Goodman. The brand was also sold at Neiman Marcus Stores, another chic address in town.

Giovanna Baby lavender was indicated by all pediatricians and succeeded to compete with the giant Johnson & Johnson. The product that started from a dream, and was intended to be only for babies and children, ended up becoming a national fever. Every girlfriend received a Giovanna Baby perfume from her beloved. Teenagers and adults (including the guys - for her own surprise) adopted the perfume.

Besides creating olfactory marketing, using 100% organic fabrics in her clothes and developing social projects to help the financial development of her employees - concepts she embraced at that time (ideas that are hip now, 40 years later), Giovanna created another concept that a few know that is originally her idea. Do you think you are hip and modern because you are seen in the Armani Café, or other stores offering gourmet spaces, such as Daslu (the fanciest store in São Paulo, recognized internationally as a center of Luxes and Haute Couture)? In the 70's/80's, Giovanna had also opened Giovanna Mother, a shop for pregnant women, the future moms & customers of Giovanna Baby. Inside, there was room to sip a cup of tea, drink a hot chocolate, with chocolate croissants that were simply dreamy! Sweets, pastries and cakes were served in the chic afternoons of São Paulo. A gourmet corner inside the store where women met to talk, rest a bit and make purchases, many purchases.

Many years passed and Giovanna Baby was already established as the most sold Brazilian lavender. The perfume received a new package, with a beautiful modern design that resembled the shape of a little baby body (which was copied by several brands, years later). The line expanded offering creams; shampoos and other body, bath & hair care products. All was going wonderfully well for the Kupfer family. All their dreams have become a reality.

MILESTONES

Giovanna Kupfer lost her husband to cancer, and soon after his death, the brand suffered major transformations. After numerous battles in the Brazilian Courthouses, Giovanna ended up losing her second great love - her factory of dreams.

In the search of a new life without her life partner and business, she traveled back to America where she would start a new dream. She met James, her second husband, but happiness did not come alone. Giovanna also contracted cancer and is currently winning bravely, day after day, her own battle (she'll win, sure!). With grown up daughters and beautiful grandchildren, Giovanna began to devote herself to an entirely different project: non-invasive spa treatments with organic products and services of the highest professional quality, offering true long-term benefits. The experience accumulated all these years, the professionalism, and the love she has to share with others, made her new address famous. Innovative products, international and Brazilian techniques are offered in her Spa (SPAJÁ) with sophistication and care. Celebrities are usually seen there, but as she says ”everyone is a celebrity in my spa”.

THE FUTURE PROMISES US MORE SURPISES TO COME

A woman who knows the pain and the suffering a war can bring; the wealth and luxury achieved only by the dedication for her work; the disappointment and the pain of losing her loved ones and everything they built together; and the weakness of a fatal disease, will never surrender. The inner strength to want to continue to live will only help her to do what she does best: make dreams come true.

The lady I call the Empress of the Senses, having explored the vision, touch, taste and smell, in such a brilliant wonderful way, like no one else will EVER do, is embracing a new project, which according to her "will be my true legacy, my gift to the world."

For now the secret is kept, but details will be revealed when she gives me the green light. I promise.

One thing I can say: it is one of the most fantastic dreams she ever had!

Note: Giovanna Baby Products sold today have been modified, and do not have their unique fragrance anymore. And in my personal opinion, do not have the style, quality and its historical value.

Giovanna, my dear friend Giovanna,

If I've learned just a little of what you taught me, if I got a bit of this energy and desire to accomplish things, if I could absorb some of your inner intellectual richness my darling friend, I've already got a gift of infinite value. If there were many more Giovannas in this world, it would surely be pinkier. It is with great affection and respect that I dedicate this fragrant space and my work to you. They are, above anything, inspired by you and your sense of aesthetics, professionalism and love for fragrances. Please continue perfuming our lives how only you know how.

Legal battles are lost ... but not our memories!

With love, Simone Shitrit.

Friday, June 18, 2010

Perfumes are not about sex????

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