tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-45063242619950218392024-03-14T12:35:23.282-07:00+ Q Perfume BlogSIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.comBlogger633125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-32070604774035169292017-07-09T16:44:00.000-07:002017-07-15T06:49:46.803-07:00Smellscapes of Japan - Part THREE<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Continuing to design the smellscape of Japan, today we are going to explore Japan's natural sources. if you missed the previous articles click on the link for <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2017/06/smellscapes-of-japan-part-one.html">JAPAN I</a>, <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2017/06/smellscapes-of-japan-part-two_24.html">JAPAN II</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">BAMBOO - TAKE</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Bamboo is deeply rooted in the Japanese culture due to its structure, roots and abandance and it has several meanings to the Japanese people such as flexibility, strengh, properity, purity and innocence.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">FINE BAMBOO HANDCRAFT - JAPAN</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">It is a perennial evergreen in the grass plant family and it can literally be found everywhere in Japan, and because it is strong, fast-growing and a readily available source it not only became a symbol in Japan, but also vastily used for handicraft, construction, Japanese cuisine, religious rituals and many other modern applications. <span style="color: #cfe2f3;">As you will find everywhere, the scent released from bamboo will also be capture by your nose all the time. It is one of the most natural smellscapes of Japan for sure!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">SAGANO BAMBOO FOREST - ARASHIYAMA, KYOTO</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: +Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The most magestic and peaceful way to appreciate bamboo in Japan is visiting the </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Sagano Bamboo Forest in Arashiyama, Kyoto.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Walking through one of the lagest bamboo groves of the world can be really an unique experience. You will be very lucky if you get there during a windy day like I did. You will hear and watch very long green swaying in the wind and creaking and its leafs rustling.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Just out of curiosity, remember the 100 Sites of Good Fragrance of the Ministry of Environment of Japan that I mention in my first article about Japan? Well, the same Ministry has also catalogued the 100 Soundscapes of Japan - where local population can appreciate "the wonders of the ear", and Sagano Bamboo Forest is one of them. Not listed in the 100 Kaori Landscape list thou...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">BRIDE TO BE IN SAGANO</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: +Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Sagano Bamboo Forest is also the darling location of the brides-to-be.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">You will see many couples having their pre-wedding photo shoot there, as bamboo is the symbol of purity and flexibility :-)))</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Walking through the long path you will also capture the greeny, fresh, grassy, straw-like scent spread by the wind. I take it it smells differently each season of the year. I came in the end of winter and beginning of spring, so it was cold and humid (it had rained earlier that day, but when we got there the sun was coming out). We capture a very heavy smell of wet straw, wet soil and a hint of leaf-y green scent.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">BAMBOO SCENSE PACKAGE - JAPAN</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: +Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">There is also a bamboo handcraft souvenir shop close to the entrance where you will not only find beautiful objects made of bamboo, but also a woody, incens-y smell that is really very relaxing! They sell bamboo-scented incence, which I purchased and I love it very much.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">PIERIS JAPONICA - SUZURAN - SPRING SNOW</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">"Suzu" means bell and "Ran" means orchid in Japanese. So, Suzuran are little orchid bells. </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">They are also the symbol for hapiness, unconscious beauty and purity and they smell DIVINE.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">These waxy, milky-translucid, almost transparent, little bells are heavenly scented!!!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">It is like finding French luxurious perfume in clusters hanging on a bush. As French muguet is greener, jasmine-like and sorta indolic scented, the Japanese Spring snow has less green quality, more flowery-honeyd accent. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">You will find them everywhere in Japan blooming during spring. I think gueishas wore them in their hair once. <span style="color: #cfe2f3;">They are unique to Japan, so it is most likely to be marked as a smellscape just as Sakura.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">SAKURA - CHERRY BLOSSOM</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">SAKURA - CHERRY BLOOM - TOKYO</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: +Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Cherry bloom season change every year and it depends mostly on the weather. The first bloom - kaika - starts in Japan usually at the end of March, but most blooms lasts till the end of April.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">SAKURA - CHERRY BLOOM - OSAKA</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">It is not a secret that my trip to Japan was all about the cherry bloom experience - hanami - or "flower viewing". I travelled all over Japan in the hunt for the most beautiful cherry tree blooms and frankly, it is really hard to choose which location I loved the most. I was mesmerized by the Himeji Castle site. The Castle is surrounded by 100s of cherry trees and the combination of the 1000s delicate flowers and the white splendor of the castle construction was really amazing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">SAKURA - CHERRY BLOOM - HiMEJI - HIMEJI CASTLE</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: +Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">One single tree in Kyoto really touched me for its beauty. Unfortunately it touched also the heart of 1000s of other Japanese that were almost killing each other to take the better shot.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">SAKURA - CHERRY BLOOM - KYOTO</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: +Q Perfume Blog</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">More blooms...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">SAKURA - CHERRY BLOOM - TOKYO KAIKA</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: +Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">SAKURA - CHERRY BLOOM - OSAKA</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">To tell the truth not all cherry trees are fragrant. Some have a almost unperceptible smell. The ones that do have a scent it smells more or less like freesias or crushed almonds.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">You will find cherry scent extract in many other places thou.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">At cherry blossom season many Japanese treats are made with cherry flowers, such as Sakuramochi - a cherry blossom rice cake; Sakura manju - a cherry blossom bean dough; Sakura yokan - cherry blossom jelly cake; Cherry Higashi- a dried cherry sweet among many others.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Frankly I didn't find Japanese desserts that good, but they are beautiful to look and to smell.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">SAKURA - CHERRY FLOWER SWEETS - SAKURA-AN - KYOTO</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: +Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">SAKURA - CHERRY CHEESE CAKE - HIROSHIMA</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: +Q Perfume Blog</span><br />
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<span style="color: #cfe2f3; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Although you will find cherry blooms only once a year in Japan, the scent of cherry trees and cherry treats must be marked in Japan's smellscape.</span></div>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-90629339382694474892017-06-24T08:55:00.001-07:002017-07-01T07:26:33.994-07:00Smellscapes of Japan - Part TWO<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Dedicated to Masahiro Kamiya, my dearest friend from Japan!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">One can find many ways of experiencing a new country. To me, intimate sensing is crucial to the experience. Through smells I found a way to deepen the experiences of my travels and perpetuate them in my mind.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Smells played a more important part of my experience in Japan than in other countries I have already visited due to the fact that Japanese people are very reserved and formal when compared to other civilizations. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Just as a curiosity: The average interpersonal distance (personal space) in Japan is 360 cm, while in Europe is 240 and in Spanish speaking countries like Cuba is 120cm.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Being a well behaved tourist, I used my self-control and I took my distance. I touched less than I am used to and I stared less than I am used to. But proper etiquette diminishes quite considerably the experience when you reduce tactile understanding of things. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Although smells are invisible and they come and go in the most ephemeral way, they make a substantial contribution for our understanding of the world around us. If you are really aware of its representations, you can also translate them into the cultural background of its surroundings.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">So, using the sense of smell played a significant part of my visit to the country of the rising sun.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">STEAMED COOKED RICE - </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Rice is the most important crop of Japan and it has been cultivated for more than 2000 years. </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Japanese white rice is not one of the pillars for the Japanese diet, but it is also so important and representative of their culture that once it was used as currency. Also, GOHAN, the word for cooked rice, became a synonym for meal (in a general way).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgajx_cd6gbLHnEhtjPuxsNE4u_J3HMM9Ws6z2WvKKLsvx3JiC0qYO6ct1BvqE9J094ix2AtOjFuapXpTNNTceKN74VWUgLnX5hWhV66gSB4emgsliRaV8i-oLEjoKvL-viKRaAbTH_-taI/s1600/IMG_6934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgajx_cd6gbLHnEhtjPuxsNE4u_J3HMM9Ws6z2WvKKLsvx3JiC0qYO6ct1BvqE9J094ix2AtOjFuapXpTNNTceKN74VWUgLnX5hWhV66gSB4emgsliRaV8i-oLEjoKvL-viKRaAbTH_-taI/s320/IMG_6934.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">ONIGIRI IN OYESTER BAR - KYOTO MARKET</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit - +Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">A bowl of steamed cooked rice is served in every Japanese home, restaurant or any other place serving food, but this is not the only way Japanese enjoy rice. The grain can be processed into different products such as Sake (rice wine), rice vinegar, rice flour or bran (nuka), and enjoyed in rice cakes (mochi), onigiris (equivalent to rice balls or "sandwiches"), domburis, sushis and many other Japanese dishes, including desserts and sweets.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJthoyc5ubIrAja8RDldHsuNzUi4v6HYcOwhsNKDVuJCcev6GO3aOGLM4ZD64mS9KurtXuAn7HZofb9m_CYf1jhp3QyeXDkzdVUICYkSG1FU7GBv9vG5x1r-yKErPLfi_pe2pFKWnLJHDe/s1600/IMG_7246.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJthoyc5ubIrAja8RDldHsuNzUi4v6HYcOwhsNKDVuJCcev6GO3aOGLM4ZD64mS9KurtXuAn7HZofb9m_CYf1jhp3QyeXDkzdVUICYkSG1FU7GBv9vG5x1r-yKErPLfi_pe2pFKWnLJHDe/s320/IMG_7246.png" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">SUSHI IN TOKYO</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit - +Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">White Japanese rice is short, sticky and softer in texture and once cooked they aquire a translucency and glossiness quality that no other rice does. Its appearence is so important to Japanese culinary that </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">in fact</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> a sushi master has to know his rice more than anything else - how to purchase, prepare and store it. Some even grow their own crops.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Flavor (taste and aroma) in the grain is the highest valued grain quality traits in rice. It is the key factor in determining its market price, although </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Japanese prefer less scented grains. For them appearance, texture, color and degree of gelatinization with cooking is much more important than fragrance.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">A Japanese white rice<i> </i>contains 200 volatile compounds therefore, as simple as a bowl of Japanese cooked rice looks to you, it is in fact a very complex mixture of odorous compounds that needs a very complex sensory evaluation to determine its aroma.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Rice aroma has been already described as starch-y, nutty, slightly flowery, popcorn-y, baked-bread scented, hay-like scented...Truth is that the aroma of rice is mainly cause by the presence of the 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6kB3felXD7AkyExXhmA-CfBHmZHttZEIDyUTkSyzSfqnJOqYeR-g9ukZM_BlWqLEXT5z18zhGExvonA3TWDTpyli2CP4dmXuHbpCXJI9j4VHo15rG2YBC-9Hc1sLMBfnUmBsaR3taasdS/s1600/IMG_6913.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6kB3felXD7AkyExXhmA-CfBHmZHttZEIDyUTkSyzSfqnJOqYeR-g9ukZM_BlWqLEXT5z18zhGExvonA3TWDTpyli2CP4dmXuHbpCXJI9j4VHo15rG2YBC-9Hc1sLMBfnUmBsaR3taasdS/s320/IMG_6913.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">RICE STORE - TOKYO MARKET</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; text-align: center;">Photo credit - +Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">As I mentioned before, you will find rice steamers in use absolutely EVERYWHERE in Japan. When that lid opens and the cloud of fragrant humid vapor is released and spread in the air you will know you are in Japan. There is nothing more delicate, more comforting and more peaceful than this aroma. A bowl of fresh cooked steamed rice in front of you is a deep plunge into the millenar traditional culture of Japan. </span><br />
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<span style="color: #cfe2f3; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The aroma of steamed cooked rice is definitely the trademark of Japanese olfactory culture.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">TATAMI - </span><br />
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Tatami mats are a traditional flooring unique to Japan. They are made of several rice straw core (doko) that are covered with compressed rush grass straws (Igusa - <i>juncus effusus</i>); filled with wood (fuchi) and laced with decorative cloths. </span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Straws are woven and cloth is used to cover the woven ends. </span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">They are green when new, maturing to a yellow tone with age.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">TATAMI ROOM - WASHITSU - NARA</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The 4000 to 7000 rushes in the tatami</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> mats is what brings to it an unique pleasent, refreshing and relaxing smell. Specially when it is brand new it releases a herbal, greeny, grass-y, slightly sweet smell that is very unique to Japan. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">To sleep in a futon on a tatami floor is the ultimate Japanese experience! I never slept better in my entire life!</span><br />
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<span style="color: #cfe2f3; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Tatami rooms smell of tradition, royalty, austerity and most of all, of peace.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Just as a bowl of rice, you will have the impression that tatami mats are simple. Well, not really. They are in fact a luxury that once was enjoyed only by royalty. In addition, tatamis are not cheap at all and its constrution and placement is really not a simple task. Like everything in Japan, it is a process following many rules, tradition and rituals.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoIooug0szWGq-qHE0rcfPxLa4dTYeisIOc-VcRPR9ifJGGMmkEsEUUeI_j103oxr4ADSstZ8WIr0elpBPp1j9vsFmu6Phyphenhyphenmsizt0KY_O3CwyAgj0jKy0l5P0SAc6RIWez5ly55heuL8I8/s1600/IMG_6666.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoIooug0szWGq-qHE0rcfPxLa4dTYeisIOc-VcRPR9ifJGGMmkEsEUUeI_j103oxr4ADSstZ8WIr0elpBPp1j9vsFmu6Phyphenhyphenmsizt0KY_O3CwyAgj0jKy0l5P0SAc6RIWez5ly55heuL8I8/s320/IMG_6666.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">FUTON BED AND TATAMI - NARA</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: +Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Although they are in decline in Japan (many homes are now using other types of flooring), as a tourist visiting many traditional houses, temples and tea rooms you will certainly agree with me that <span style="color: #cfe2f3;">the tatami smell can be considered a national olfactive identity of the Japanese smellscape.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;">COFFEE - </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;">I know you must be confused right now. Probably asking yourself "shouldn't she be mentioning green tea instead of coffee?" </span></span></span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">To answer to to this question I must say that first of all, +Q Perfume Blog is not famous and followed worldwide for bringing the obvious. Second, I will mention green tea at some point of course, but my main concern when mapping a city or country is to understand the complexity of its olfactive identity. When I mentioned the globalization of smells as a disturbing factor of the original smellscape of a country I could not leave Japan out of the picture. Indeed </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;">the aroma of coffee is present in Japan today corrupting its traditional scent-based spacial experience. </span></span><br />
<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Brewed coffee aroma became an everyday smell detected EVERYWHERE in Japan. It is altering the sensory perception of the country by replicating the culture of others.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">But is this really a new habit among the Japanese?</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JtOsDdwZXeHzbY9xMS_phsU7NaUsLcqzXAMJgN6NqLOtVmsfvqjlak5d2PRsRwQk4kMkgT3JbkeQch-e5SnvP3Yes2ZbUyoc6bYJdtZ_DeIg7Asqi1inDOa4nn53duxh7Y0-hV-LH1VP/s1600/IMG_6316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JtOsDdwZXeHzbY9xMS_phsU7NaUsLcqzXAMJgN6NqLOtVmsfvqjlak5d2PRsRwQk4kMkgT3JbkeQch-e5SnvP3Yes2ZbUyoc6bYJdtZ_DeIg7Asqi1inDOa4nn53duxh7Y0-hV-LH1VP/s320/IMG_6316.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">STARBUCKS AND KIMONOS AT </span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">KAPPABASHI, TOKYO</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: +Q Perfume Blog </span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I found some interesting data regarding the culture of coffee in Japan, published by the Japanese Coffee Association.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><br /></span></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">History<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 11.0pt;">A limited amount of
coffee was drunk by Dutch residents of Nagasaki at the end of the eighteenth
century. However, coffee was not generally sold until the last quarter of the
nineteenth century with the first bulk imports in 1877. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The first coffee shop
was opened in Tokyo in 1888 and the coffee drinking habit spread slowly with
imports peaking at 140,000 bags in 1937. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Global conflict of the World War </span><span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Ⅱ</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 11.0pt;">
prevented significant imports of coffee during 1940s and the requirements of
post-war reconstruction dampened consumption during 1950s. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt;">Coffee imports were
liberalized in 1961 and some 250,000 bags were imported in this year. Coffee
remained a minor drink compared with the traditional green tea and initially it
was drunk only among richer adult urban dwellers. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt;">Consumption of soluble coffee
widely spread and regular coffee was consumed at coffee shops, eventually
coffee has become increasingly popular over all the country. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt;">The introduction
of canned ready-to-drink coffee in both hot and cold forms in 1969 and the
expansion of vending machines helped to promote coffee consumption among younger
generations and consequently coffee consumption increased rapidly by the
synergistic effect. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt;">Japanese coffee
consumption has soared during last 40 years. <span style="color: #cfe2f3;">The country is now third in terms
of total consumption among importing countries.</span> The rapid increase of
consumption was realized mainly due to following reasons:<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt;">*A marked change in
society with some “Westernization” of consumption habits;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt;">* A marketing, with the
initial emphasis on soluble coffee then extended to roasted and ground coffee;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt;">* The initial growth of
attractive coffee shops (The number of coffee shops reached to 162,000 outlets
peaking in 1982);</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt;">*A process of product
innovation including the vigorous promotion and sales of canned ready-to-drink
coffee (now more than 5 million vending machines exist all over Japan and half
of which serve for sales of beverages, including coffee).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiROSJZOtsauSPw7JhMaRkGPxLFjHobUM9OJ5pX8yCEeZGWGOVa2bA4nNceZvCAH0sxIqjGutJnoEYwKDUpZ-cDM9DySpDBjl629PMefepKYFF3wAXRdblY-hvdvgWljJObuX1Oq5y9OnXa/s1600/IMG_7801.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiROSJZOtsauSPw7JhMaRkGPxLFjHobUM9OJ5pX8yCEeZGWGOVa2bA4nNceZvCAH0sxIqjGutJnoEYwKDUpZ-cDM9DySpDBjl629PMefepKYFF3wAXRdblY-hvdvgWljJObuX1Oq5y9OnXa/s320/IMG_7801.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">BREWING COFFEE AT NARITA</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: +Q Perfume Blog</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;">It is easy to understand why coffee has a significant presence in Japan. Knowing a little bit of chemistry of human vices I tell you: caffeine and nicotine walk hand in hand just as Romeo and Juliet. They simply LOVE each other! Japanese are heavy smokers, therefore they are also heavy coffee drinkers.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;">Another factor is the pressure to perform. Japanese have crazy working habits. They need this boost of energy not to crash. Which at one point they do and kill themselves by jumping into holes in the forest. Google it...It is creepy shit.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;">Anyways, back to scents...</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;">You will smell coffee in the air all day long coming from coffee vending machines - where you will find canned or bottled hot/cold coffee; from coffee shops like Starbucks or Japanese brands; from coffee shops selling beans or imported grinded coffee and many coffee tasting at the streets and shopping malls.</span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaMdb9lkqrx2XUUxwE2VnCiA8iXhFxkavfG1EzG2AF8japonqBiNieMQDf1Xv1vVDWxf2iSGaAAeWSUxG6ZeWJC5RkRUg0Q7K8IBEh4WL08rVD9uNjJl29-ATZphPIRzjazgELnOs-ot3b/s1600/IMG_7796.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaMdb9lkqrx2XUUxwE2VnCiA8iXhFxkavfG1EzG2AF8japonqBiNieMQDf1Xv1vVDWxf2iSGaAAeWSUxG6ZeWJC5RkRUg0Q7K8IBEh4WL08rVD9uNjJl29-ATZphPIRzjazgELnOs-ot3b/s320/IMG_7796.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;">COFFEE SHOP - KAON SHOPPING MALL AT NARITA</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;">Photo credit: +Q Perfume Blog</span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;">The coffee vending machines are simply everywhere. Hotels, bustops, shops and more shockingly - sometimes in the corner of every block in the streets of smaller towns. Sometimes these towns have absolutly nothing to offer. But you will find the coffee vending machines in the main road or in the back yard of a house!</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;">I brought a video of an exquisite type of coffee vending machine that shows customers how the coffee is brewed:</span></span></span><span style="color: #cfe2f3; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cfe2f3;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zfAZCddDZNo" width="560"></iframe>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Although coffee is not an original Japanese treat, you will find the Japanese touch in every experience they offer, so your coffee experience would not be different! It is nothing like elsewhere.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM6KZ0JfBYjpE7zC63IxREsObr7YPL0t0PvdyvtgsfMqIp-XOPCFTHlAtTLFzsBUJPub7NYPlP5wMWLmxsj3l5SAImYKxVJTWsnwdyZhWSIgM-hHt-YKF-L2zXj44i-gCi91uHgLFuc1w_/s1600/IMG_6129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM6KZ0JfBYjpE7zC63IxREsObr7YPL0t0PvdyvtgsfMqIp-XOPCFTHlAtTLFzsBUJPub7NYPlP5wMWLmxsj3l5SAImYKxVJTWsnwdyZhWSIgM-hHt-YKF-L2zXj44i-gCi91uHgLFuc1w_/s400/IMG_6129.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">MOCHA CAT CAFE BUILDING IN HARAJUKU, TOKYO</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: +Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">We found a very exquisite café in Harajuku: <a href="http://catmocha.jp/harajuku/">The Cat Cafe Mocha </a>which is a café for cat lovers. You must know that Japanese are so crazy about cats that they even sell the <a href="http://kotaku.com/make-everything-smell-like-cat-head-with-this-japanese-1747274711?utm_medium=sharefromsite&utm_source=Kotaku_facebook">scent of cat head</a>. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyurba83KhZgALBO2fN53y6PgKHf6r2v1en6OOYd2tCUwM-7qOa1ZuXjTupMiTrifCEk9WdEa8SHxQ4sq5Sdz16-sW7McVdIc0F8WIlYEGvbWA_4WtEbffS8Va3N2tth84cMNsa_hFmTof/s1600/12599184_572606412920190_804991370_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="478" data-original-width="640" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyurba83KhZgALBO2fN53y6PgKHf6r2v1en6OOYd2tCUwM-7qOa1ZuXjTupMiTrifCEk9WdEa8SHxQ4sq5Sdz16-sW7McVdIc0F8WIlYEGvbWA_4WtEbffS8Va3N2tth84cMNsa_hFmTof/s320/12599184_572606412920190_804991370_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">MOCHA - HARAJUKU</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photocredit: Hub Japan</span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">So, loving coffee and cats you won't be surprised that Mocha is a place where you get to sit to sip a cup of coffee surrounded by many many cats! We tried to get in to experience this feline coffee experience, but unfortunatly the line was so long that we had to give it up due to our tight schedule for that day.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Mocha offers cat feeding time when not only you sip your coffee but you can also feed the little balls of fur. Only in Japan, believe me!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">TO BE CONTINUED...</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Stay tunned for more Japanese scented experiences!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-63654415774008032792017-06-14T08:34:00.000-07:002017-06-15T06:51:30.911-07:00Smellscapes of Japan - Part ONE<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">In 2014 I published an essay of articles on urban smells dedicated to Victoria Hensaw - the Queen of Smellscapes (or olfactive maps).</span></span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">That article evolved one entire theory that we are loosing the sense of the smell of our "home" due to globalization. Once you have the same shops, the same bakeries, the same chain of brands everywhere, you have also a globalization of smells, which are little by little substituting and sometimes even erasing the local ones: </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><i>"In a world of globalization and virtual living we have developed a
lack of emotional connection to what is local. We are less aware of our
surroundings and we are not fully experiencing the "materiality" of
things. Being less contemplative and less emotionally connected to a local
environment although it may sound very modern and hip, it is also drifting us
away from our origins. We are loosing our identities as urban citizens. Where
we come from and who we are. We no longer recognize the smell of "home"
because we became urban nomads, modern gypsies."</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Really concerned about the lost of our scent heritage I did a journey in my own town São Paulo to try to collect some local smell identity.</span><span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Truth is that I have been collecting smells from every city I visit. Some I have shared here in my blog over the years. </span></span><br />
<span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Victoria Hensaw's life work played a crucial role in my smell walks and made me fully understand how important it is to identify and map these smells and also </span></span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">improve my knowledge of how to map and how to catalogue smells. </span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Unfortunately she has passed away in 2004. </span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">When I found out about her she was already sick, </span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">so I never got to do her smell walks that I dreamed so much of joining one day. But the inspiration did not die with her and I continue to do my olfactive journeys... </span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">Jumping to the present...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQLBw0LrpSHauodAd2SiVH9oYdPsySU1MPg_KYSg5UpU6EKMdgy6TQAW2yTajZFQP6FDAAHQgkCJTDqVTCtZ4IkX087yz_liQXpZk95hOWZeUXwM9SLHZuDmwlcwVxdUuDi4vnM0ZJ5jx0/s1600/IMG_6012.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQLBw0LrpSHauodAd2SiVH9oYdPsySU1MPg_KYSg5UpU6EKMdgy6TQAW2yTajZFQP6FDAAHQgkCJTDqVTCtZ4IkX087yz_liQXpZk95hOWZeUXwM9SLHZuDmwlcwVxdUuDi4vnM0ZJ5jx0/s320/IMG_6012.png" width="240" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">NARITA AIRPORT</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">I just came back from a trip to Japan and inspired by something that I also wrote in that article of 2014 about this country made me wish to write a piece on Japan:</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><i>"...Japan
is an exception in a way. Although eager to have food chains like any other
country according to the specialist, it is the country that has one of the most
advanced attitudes towards the olfactory sense and its relationship to place,
going as far as declaring “One Hundred Sites of Good Fragrance” across the
country. </i></span><i style="color: #f4cccc;">From
the sea mist of Kushiro to the Nanbu rice cracker of Morioka, not to mention
the distinct smell of glue that hangs in the air around the doll craftsmen’s
homes in Koriyama, all now have<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span>protected
status..."</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Curious about the concept of the 100 Sites of Good Fragrance? </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">It is a project developed by the Ministry of Environment of Japan, and in their own words:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><i>The Ministry of the Environment has introduced the olfactory measurement method to the odor control law to further solve the problem of odor caused by urban / life type pollution which is increasing in recent years, and is promoting the spread of it more In addition to that, we adopted a new way of thinking about the Kaori environment, "We will rediscover the good fragrance around us, conscious of the various smells around us through noticing Kaori, actively work on improving unpleasant smell Regional activities "that we would like to promote. Therefore, as part of supporting regional efforts to preserve and create good scent and its natural environment and culture - the Kaori environment - 100 points that are particularly excellent as a Kaori environment "100 Kaori Landscapes" We decided to implement the project. Regarding the candidate for 100 candidate sites, there were 600 entries from all over the country during the three months from May 25 th this year to the end of August, as candidates for "100 Kaori Landscapes." By entrant, there were 512 local governments and 88 individuals.(extracted from the Ministry's website)</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">I must admit that did not visit the 100 sites of Good Fragrance therefore I can't really write about them, but instead, I decided to share my own collected smell perceptions of Japan during this last Spring.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">KAORI - </span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">香り - SCENT</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">I know you can't wait for this journey to start, but before we step in this fragrant path there are some facts </span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">about Japan </span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">related to fragrance that I think it is worth mentioning here.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">To those of you who followed me in Japan in Facebook you know I mentioned the fact that Japanese culture in general is contraditory and ambivalent. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">Side walk in Shinjuku, Tokyo near perfume store</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">Photo credit: </span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">+ Q Perfume Blog</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">As an example, you will find non smoking signs on the streets. They have specific hidden corners where groups of smokers gather to share their vice, and yet people are allowed to smoke in restaurants while eating. SO, public open free space is not a place to produce smoke and bad smells, but blowing it on people's face while they eating it is not only allowed but almost a must. Actually they will find quite surprising that you don't mix Malboros with sushi. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">SMOKES AND SUSHI in HIROSHIMA</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Photo credit: </span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">+ Q Perfume Blog</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">The contradition and ambivalence are also applied to the perfume culture of Japan.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #cfe2f3; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">1. You will see 1000s of shops selling perfumes, but you will rarely find Japanese wearing them. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">Also ambivalent regarding perfumes: </span></div>
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<span style="color: #cfe2f3; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">2. Japanese don't wear perfume but in Japan you find a perfume sommaliers. </span><br />
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">To understand what a Japanese perfume sommalier does, </span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Kazutoshi Kato, one of the 14 perfume sommaliers of Japan certified by Bluebell Japan Ltd d</span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">escribes his job he explains:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><i>“It is my job to select a scent that matches the customer. It is also my duty to teach the customer how to wear and preserve perfume, and how to observe proper manners when wearing it. He adds: "</i></span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: normal;"><i>It is not just about knowing as many perfumes as possible, though that is necessary as well. You need to know the historical background of fragrance, how to describe each scent, how to display the perfume on the counter, and even the anatomy of the nose and how it works.”</i> (</span></span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">Kato has been selling Bluebell’s perfume imports at the Isetan department store in Tokyo’s Shinjuku district since 2001).</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">In 2003 Bluebell Japan introduced a perfume sommelier degree, a certificate awarded to Bluebell employees who meet certain qualifications. One of them being to pass the fragrance sales test conducted by the Japan Fragrance Association, and i</span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">n order to pass this test it is necessary to have a wide knowledge of the perfume industry and of fragrance in general.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">Yes fragrant friends, they have experts in fragrance, but will Japanese people wear the fragrances they are advising to purchase? Not really.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">HARAJUKU, TOKYO</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">Photo credit: </span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">+ Q Perfume Blog</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cfe2f3; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">3. Japanese people has almost no body odors.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Regarding this subject I have always heard things like "you smell of what you eat". If that was 100% accurate Japanese people would smell like fish, soy, ginger... wouldn't they? Well, they don't.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">Japanese people in the subway smell good after one long day of working. They don't have a pronounced body odor, nor does the subway stink. Ridding the subway you will notice the difference from a New York subway train right away!</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">Although Gwen Stefani has launched in 2005 a line of fragrances called Harajuku Lover, inspired by the Harajuku street fashionistas you can be in a crowd in the middle of the day in the fashion district of Harajuku, where you can't barely move, and all you will smell is delicate flowery shampoos, fresh washed clothes and crêpes (we will address to this aroma later on).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">Experts explain that</span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"> one reason why the Japanese fragrance market is still relatively small is simply due to what is claimed to be a racial characteristic of Japanese people: They have a lower tendency to develop body odor.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">“In Western countries, people originally used perfume to conceal their body odor,” says Akiko Ryu, the deputy general manager of the perfume and cosmetics division of Bluebell Japan. “Most Japanese people, however, hardly have any body odor. Therefore, perfume is not a necessity.”</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms", sans-serif;">That explains why Japanese subways and crowds are not smelly. (they don't bring food and beverages to the subway like new Yorkers do...)</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I confess that while traveling in the subway I wanted to come closer to the Japanese standing next to me and take better sniff, but since they have a cultural imposition of minding your own space - "don't touch me, don't even look at me if possible" rule, I did not dare to do so.</span></div>
<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><br /></span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">If you guys want to go deeper on this subject I found an interesting/fun video in youtube made by Rachel from the Rachel & June channel that actually explains in a fun and easy to understand the chemistry and genetics of Japanese people:</span><br />
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">So by now you are wondering... How come there are successful fragrances like L'Eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake, Flower by Kenzo or houses like Shiseido and Hanae Mori if Japanese don't wear fragrances? It is indeed a mystery to me. There are Japanese perfume brands, there are perfume shops in Japan...but I am yet to find a Japanese person wearing perfume. Maybe perfume wearers gather in hidden corners to share their passion like the smokers do. </span><br />
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">I read an article in a blog about living in Japan as a foreigner that Japanese people consider perfume an accessory only for very important people or for women that "work at night", but I had no confirmation on the matter. </span><br />
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">SHINTO SYMBOLS - OMIKUJI, EMA and KOMAINU </span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">TEMPLES OF TOKYO KYOTO AND NARA - JAPAN</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span style="color: #cfe2f3; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">4. You notice in Japan the absence of perfume in the air (personal scent), but the fragrances of household cleaning products, hygiene and laundry products are definitely there, almost like an entity.</span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"> </span><br />
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">Truth is while in Japan you notice that they have a near obsession to cleaning and hygiene. This cultural emphasis on cleanliness is thought to be originated from the influence Japanese religion Shinto. By the way, 80% of the Japanese population is devoted to Shinto religion which is translated to the Traditional Religion of Japan with 81,000 temples. Shinto suggests that there are more than 8 million deities (Kami or Shin) in the daily objects and as they hate impurities the followers of the religion and the world around them must be purified and cleaned constantly thought ritual of purification (Harai) with water baths.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">PURIFICATION FOUNTAIN</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">TOKYO SHRINE</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">According to one of the laws of Buddhism, another popular religion of Japan, it is forbidden to wear ornaments and perfumes. So one can assume that Japanese use very little or no fragrances at all due to some sort of religious belief.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">And to finish this chapter: </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">More smelly facts about Japanese culture extracted from the paper - "<span style="text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-GB">Japanese Fragrance
Descriptives and Gender Constructions: </span></span><span style="text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-GB">Preliminary Steps to a
Cross-Cultural Study" by<b> </b></span></span><span style="text-align: center;">Brian
Moeran, Copenhagen Business School:</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<!--EndFragment--></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">1. The Japanese make conscious use of smell in their everyday
lives. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">2. Japanese have been concerned
to get rid of smell, rather than add it in the way that Westerners do… There
was a period earlier when Japanese added things to stop smells – as in
lavatories, for example – but nowadays the idea is to produce things that do
not smell in the first place.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">3. Compact living styles in close
quarters encourage either milder forms of smell.</span></span><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; size: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">4. If Japan is marked by a smell
culture that is based more on ‘odourlessness’ than ‘odour’, we may wonder how
fragrance companies advertise their products in Japan and how Japanese
themselves react to modern – primarily Western – perfumes and the use thereof.
In the early 1990s, it was remarked that the Japanese fragrance market
constituted a mere 3 per cent of the total cosmetics market, as compared with
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">5. The Japanese vocabulary of
smell appears, initially at least, to be as undeveloped as smell vocabularies
in other languages, although it would seem to prefer to use ‘pure’ Japanese
rather than foreign loanwords in its main classifications. There appears to be
some continuity between contemporary Japanese and Heian Court aesthetics in
terms of elegance, gorgeousness, sensuality and attraction (cf. Gatten
1977:44-46). The use of ‘sexiness’ is the exception here and suggests a strong
Western influence, although the exact definition of ‘sexiness’ remains vague
and imprecise. It may be possible to pursue the analysis of fragrance
descriptives with reference to Adrienne Lehrer’s (1983) study of the vocabulary
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: normal;">Stay put because in the next chapter we will start our fragrant Journey!!</span><div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-15585140221311492252017-01-17T04:43:00.000-08:002017-01-17T04:54:22.370-08:00ENTREVISTA PARA REVISTA ATUALIDADE COSMÉTICA <div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Mais uma vez em parceria com a Revista atualidade Cosmética, participei de uma entrevista sobre o mercado da perfumaria de nicho.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">É muito gratificante poder dividir meus conhecimentos com pessoas da indústria de fragrâncias e ser reconhecida como fonte de informação idônea e atualizada sobre o assunto.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Obrigada Carol Rodrigues e Equipe da Atualidade Cosmética!</span><div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-90091949359595863882017-01-02T03:27:00.000-08:002017-01-02T04:00:53.179-08:00FRAGRANCES & HIPPIE TRAIL<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">"The desert is unpredictable, enigmatic. One minute you will be smelling dust. The next, the desert can smell just like the rain." (Gary Nabham - The Desert Smells Like the Rain)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Continuing the journey where you can see a never ending horizon and feel the breeze of freedom on the face I will share a secret with you. Although I am a super urban person, I have two passions - taking a road challenge and deserts. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Believe it or not my dream trip is to hit the road on a Hippie Trail. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">For those of you who are not familiar with the Hippie Trail or The Overland we need to go back in time. It was journeys that youngsters took during the 60's and early 70's, from Europe to India, Nepal and beyond, usually in an old Volkswagen vain, by train, by bus or hitchhiking. 7.000 miles in the lowest budget possible, meeting other adventurers and interacting with locals at each stop. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht199dpdxVr5TrCIpCKoxI7iTi4V-QupyL4PDkAIzlsQdOyQLgdB-BpDVd0sSvuATj8O6PcuMxqe0xUa55ENizy_5-sDrYJtmF_jjiouVZGpMzewpKTICc3p5jlDI1oFE0Vae0ReNN0p9w/s1600/swagman.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht199dpdxVr5TrCIpCKoxI7iTi4V-QupyL4PDkAIzlsQdOyQLgdB-BpDVd0sSvuATj8O6PcuMxqe0xUa55ENizy_5-sDrYJtmF_jjiouVZGpMzewpKTICc3p5jlDI1oFE0Vae0ReNN0p9w/s400/swagman.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Hippies trails were taken so young people could scape from conventional lifestyles, feel the freedom, be enlighten, "go native" (as in be naked and natural)</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> and smoke weed. A lot of weed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The classic hippie trail ended in 1979 when the Slamic Revolution in Iran and the invasion of Afghanistan by the Russians closed the overland route to western travellers.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Alternative tourism is my thing. Feeling the wind on my face and driving long hours to meet the horizon is also me. I would never take a trip on a cruise or with those annoying tourist guides. I like to mingle with locals, take my time, sip a cup of their coffee and listen to their stories. To know a country is to know the people, the culture.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">But I am no hippie. I like to shower and eat good food. I would never think of Afghanistan...</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I have taken trips to deserts in Israel thou. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">For your surprise I was always the one driving the car or the van. I drove along the Incense Trail, the Negev, the Judaean desert...so beautiful, but so f.hot. One have weird experiences such as mirages and other visions. The heat simply takes over your brain and you literally trip out from it... </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The hippie style dream trail to me would be cross the entire USA in an a van, specially and conquer its deserts. I dream of sitting nowhere in the desert, listening to good music and just do nothing besides watching the sundown.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I would simply love to take route 66; smell </span><a href="https://www.nps.gov/jotr/learn/nature/creosote.htm" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">creosotes</a><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> in the Mojave desert on route 247; smell the green watery scent of cactuses; the mushroom-y odor of Joshua trees blooming; the herbaceous scent of sage, the resinous woody christmas-y smell of pine; the earthy, mineral and dusty smell of sand and dirt... </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Well, my dream will not come true in the near future so I decided to </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">put up a list list of fragrances that best describe the smells of the desert and get us in the Hippie vintage adventurous mood. </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I will be an olfactory journey or a Scent journal of a Hippie Trail.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Needless to say that sandalwood and <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2011/09/patchouli-fragrances.html">patchouli </a>were the favs of hippies. It is said that hippies used patchuli to desguise the smell of marijuana and the BO and sour body odors because they didn't take showers. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Although I am not into hippie scents, patchouli is one of my most beloved scents after iris. Click on the link and you will have many fragrances reviews with all kids of patchouli based fragrances and a huge list of options!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">If you want a complete hippie experience, be my guest with <a href="https://www.malinandgoetz.com/perfumery/856571005070-cannabis-perfume-oil">MALIN + GOETZ CANNABIS PERFUME OIL</a> (Notes of fig, pepper, orange, lemon, sandalwood and patchouli).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">For a original hippie patchouli fragrance of the 70's experience with ingredients of the overland you should try <a href="https://www.reminiscenceparis.com/en-GB/eshop.aspx?l=4patchor100-f36&prod=322796&cat=320592">INOUBLIABLE ELIXIR PATCHOULI</a> BY REMINISCENSE. Launched in the seventies, it was reissued in 2007.(Notes of virginian cedar, patchouli from Java, Haitian vetiver, Australian sandalwood, frankincense, vanilla from Madagascar, tonka, tolu and light musk.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Now you got yourself into the hippie mood, let's hit the road!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Our journey starts with <a href="http://www.la-curie.com/product/larrea">LARREA EDP </a>by LA CURIE, a fragrance inspired by the southwest rainstorms, where dust encounters rain. Notes of Chaparral, musk, petrichor, ozone, leather). Open the window and feel a whiff of desert there right into our noses! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">As we travel deeper into the desertic landscape we stop the car and start to explore the trails with <a href="https://www.dsanddurga.com/collections/perfume/products/el-cosmico">EL COSMICO EDP</a> by D.S & DURGA (notes of desert shrubs, desert pepper, pinyon pine, creosote, oak, khella, dry accord and shrub wax) and <a href="https://desertperfumes.com/about-our-perfumes/">PURPLE SAGE</a> by Perfumes of the Desert.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://byredo.eu/mojave-ghost-eau-de-parfum-50-ml">MOJAVE GHOST</a> EDP BY BYREDO is an ode to the ghost flower of the Mojave desert - the <i>mohavea confertiflora.</i>(Notes of ambrette, sapodilla, violet, sandalwood, magnolia, ambergris and cedar). Although many fragrance reviewers are saying it is not really special, I had to list it because it tells a desertic story in the Mojave landscape!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">For cactus fragrances we have some options such as <a href="http://demeterfragrance.com/prickly-pear.html">PRICKLY PEAR</a> (Opuntia fragrance) and <a href="http://demeterfragrance.com/saguaro-cactus.html">SAGUARO CACTUS </a>(Saguaro fragrance) COLOGNES BY DEMETER.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Although <a href="http://www.envoyageperfumes.com/products/frida">FRIDA EDP</a> BY ENVOYAGE is a fragrance celebrates artist Frida Kahlo it contains a very greeny watery scent of cactus that made me think of deserts when I first tried the sample sent by the perfumer. (Notes of apricot, watermelon, peach, lemon, fruity and green notes, tuberose, hibiscus, cactus flower, champaca, ylang, gardenia, jasmine, woody notes, sugar, oakmoss, aldehydes, myrrh, olibanum, copal, tobacco, green pepper, amber and musk. I also want to point out that while making the trip to the the Negev in Israel Shelly Waddington was always on my mind. Specially <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2011/05/makeda-by-shelley-waddington-natural.html">MAKEDA EDP</a>, but mostly for historical reasons, but it is worth reading the review...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">and if we are already going a little bit aside <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2014/09/moon-dust-edp-by-min-moon-landing.html">MOON DUST EDP</a> by MIN NY is supposed to be inspired by the smell of the moon. If you read my review you will find out that there are conspiracies saying that actually it was a hoax shooted in the Nevada desert. So probably the smell of the moon is the same of the desert dirt... Worth reading, worth sampling.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Back to California, we will stop the van because it is getting dark and we are tired and hungry. It is time to sit around the fire, barbecue, tell spooky stories and wrap ourselves in a cozy Indian blanket that we bought when mingling with the locals. I can't think of a better olfative translation than Californian fragrance <a href="http://www.sonomascentstudio.com/ScentPages/firesideintense.shtml">FIRESIDE INTENSE EDP</a> BY SONOMA SCENT STUDIO ( click <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2011/07/fireside-intense-by-sonoma-scent-studio.html">HERE</a> for a complete review)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">More desert hippie trail experiences:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://www.michaelaram.com/nsite/iteminfo.aspx?hdid=160727&cid=98">Joshua Tree Candle</a> by Michael Aram</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://pfcandleco.com/products/no-22-mojave-soy-candle?variant=11156215621">Mojave Soy Candle </a>by P.F. Candle Co.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://whiskeyinkandlace.com/product/tucson-verdure-wood-wick-candle/">Tucson Verdure Soy Candle</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.onceinabloom.com/store.php">Desert Queen Fragrances</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://juniperridge.com/shop/">Juniper Ridge Products</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.desertdancer.com/Desert-Scents-c-31.html">Desert Dancer oils</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://www.etsy.com/pt/listing/470572012/petrichor-natural-perfume-mist-first?ref=market">Petrichor natural perfume</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I had to finish with a good laugh! Since hippies did not bath, I bring you the <a href="http://www.slate.com/articles/health_and_science/science/2009/03/the_bo_wheel.html">B.O. Wheel </a> !!</span></div>
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http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-7221610830016577172016-12-29T04:14:00.005-08:002016-12-31T05:36:23.721-08:00ACQUASALA EDP BY GABRIELLA CHIEFFO<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<i style="font-family: "trebuchet ms", sans-serif; text-align: justify;">"We have always held to the hope, the belief, the conviction that there is a better life, a better world beyond the horizon" - Franklin D. Roosevelt</i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Last week I took a quick trip down to the beach. I spent my day walking barefoot on the sand, smelling the sea breeze and siting at the deck to contemplate the horizon. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">It makes wonder to the soul. I felt happier with a sense of belonging.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">For someone like me who suffers from motion sickness, I have been hearing the same advice all my life "if you feel unsteady, look at the horizon". Well, It is true. When you sit in front of the ocean and you focus into the horizon, that sensation of </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">never-ending brings an idea of freedom, simplicity, unification and steadiness. </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I guess Nature does that to us in general.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The beach offers us even more. Being near the ocean and to profit from its salty marine breeze relaxes us in such a way that right after I sit behind the wheel to get back to the city, I am already missing my spot on that deck. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Unfortunately this is far from happening.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Back home I was wondering if this is the reason why I love salty marine fragrances so much. </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Fact is that besides the relaxing effect, they wrap us by the neck and slowly drags us to a romantic day at the beach or a joyful summer vacation memory. Who does not want to live that again right?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">They are also very sexy. Most salty marine fragrances feels like touching the skin with the nose and taking a long deep inhale. Bodies embraced, a long lasting kiss...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">During the years I have reviewed many marine fragrances and each of them has taken me to a different shore and a different story.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Today I am exploring a fragrance that I received sometime ago from Gabriella Chieffo and I am letting it sink into my skin to see where it takes me.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #9fc5e8;">Launch:</span> 2014</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #9fc5e8;">Country:</span> Italy</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #9fc5e8;">Concentration: </span>EDP</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #9fc5e8;">Gender: </span>Unisex</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #9fc5e8;">Perfumer:</span> Luca Maffei</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #9fc5e8;">Olfactive Notes:</span> Neroli, seaweed, elemi, caraway, black pepper, nutmeg, iris, incense, myrrh, patchouli, cashmeran, amber, oakmoss, musk.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>"With a dive, it leaves behind the safety of the dry land. Now it finds itself here, in salt water, a mirror of the enveloping sky. A state of rest and movement in breathing, captivated by the primordial element, Purifying, Sacred. Water and salt. Life and wisdom. The branches of its soul swell inhale knowledge. It remembers being a fish and then a reptile before becoming itself. To have known smells, tastes, lives. It knows it was vertebra below the vertebrae, rocked by its breath, calmed by its heartbeats. In the salt water, made of little tears and little seas. It perceived the same smell that is here now, the never ending smell of a breath that is the end of all smells. Spit that became flesh. Dived into dryness with a wave. Having carried out the ritual, that includes the power and magic of regeneration through generation, it swallows a syllable of breath and becomes life". (Gabriella Chieffo)</i></span></div>
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<span style="color: #9fc5e8; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">ACQUASALA EDP REVIEW</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">ACQUASALA EDP is different from all the other fragrances that I have reviewed because although it has a rather pronounced opening, with a less <i>"at the beach, but gazing the beach from the library window"</i> kind of aura, it mellows in a way most salty fragrances don't. I see myself in a fancy lodge at the beach during winter time. No bikinis, no colorful drinks and certainly no Beach Boys tunes. Just a fireplace, a cozy blanket, a sip of wine or hot cocoa and a large window to look at the waves crashing on the stones. The sea shore, a salty icy breeze...a walk hand in hand wearing a warm overcoat, gloves, rain boots and a woolen scarf. It is still relaxing and sexy, but also cozy, instead of refreshing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I didn't embrace the brand's invitation to dive right away. According to Jean Claude Ellena a fragrance needs to tell a story, and the story ACQUASALA EDP is telling me is a bit different of the one told by Gabriella. It happens. Creative people tend to create stories of their own based on memories of their own. But during dry down, after all the saltness was washed away just as a wave washes the sand and moves back down, a sensation of being under water submerged (can I say that at all?). This is what I liked about this fragrance - its versatility. It will bring you either a summer time aura or a gray-ish icy day at the beach. It depends on the mood you are in.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">If you watched the Terrence Malick experimental romantic drama To The Wonder (2012) you will never forget Ben Affleck and Olga Kurylenko love scenes. The entire movie is rhythmic and fluid, but the beach scenes are really beautiful and poetic. Bodies collide and separate, they approach and they part from one another just like sea waves on the sand. That is ACQUASALA EDP to me - Malick's Normandy love scene captured in a flacon.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: medium;">To feel romantic today:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">To read more about salty (beach-y) fragrances:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2010/02/fleurs-de-sel-by-miller-harris-salty.html">Fleurs de Sel</a> EDP by Miller Harris</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2009/04/acqua-di-sale-is-one-of-most-sensual.html">Acqua di Sale</a> EDP by Profumum Roma</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2010/11/sel-marine-edp-by-heely-marine-breeze.html">Sel Marine</a> EDP by Heeley</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2010/11/marine-breeze-sel-de-vetiver-by.html">Sel de Vetiver</a> EDP by The Different Company</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2010/01/rainy-days-can-have-drop-of.html">Côte D'Amour</a> EDP by L'Artisan Parfumeur</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://cbihateperfume.com/shop/perfumes-a-to-z/301">Mr. Hulot's Holiday</a> EDP by CB I Hate Perfume</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://cbihateperfume.com/shop/perfumes-a-to-z/701">Eternal Return</a> EDP by CB I Hate perfume</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2012/05/random-perfume-picks-day-one.html">Bois Naufragé</a> EDP by Parfumerie Generale</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2010/11/marine-breeze-part-iii-comparisons.html">Marine Breeze Comparisons </a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">ACQUASALA EDP can be found at <a href="http://www.gabriellachieffo.com/en/6066/ACQUASALA">GABRIELLA CHIEFFO WEBSITE</a>. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Also at <a href="http://www.luckyscent.com/product/70600/acquasala-by-gabriella-chieffo">LUCKYSCENT</a> if you are in the USA.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Images: +Q Perfume Blog/ Gabriella Chieffo/www.bfi.org.uk</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Sample: Given by Brand</span><div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-66066784753770217652016-12-23T05:49:00.004-08:002016-12-31T05:36:58.428-08:00SHEIDUNA EDP<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><span style="color: #38761d;">2016</span> <span style="color: red;">HOLIDAY</span> <span style="color: #38761d;">PICKS!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Six years ago I wrote about what I called the Mary Poppins/Nanny Mc Fee scents (Click </span><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2010/10/coromandel-by-chanel-nannies-and.html" style="font-family: "trebuchet ms", sans-serif;">here</a><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> to read it) meaning fragrances that bring comfort to the soul in cold, rainy, gray days or to weird phases in life when things are very uncertain.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I don't recall why I was feeling that way six years ago because I tend to have a positive selective memory (a wisdom that we acquire with age) that makes me keep only what was enjoyable and memorable in my life. The emotional trash is deleted, if not daily, at least on monthly basis. But what is amazing, if not magical, is the fact that I have been feeling exactly the same way these days and surprisingly I received from someone that I care a lot THE ULTIMATE COMFORTING FRAGRANCE! Unbelievable! I had a similar experience with <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2015/10/chrysolithe-11-by-olivier-durbano.html">Olivier Durbano</a> last year. An olfactive synchronicity, if I can call these events this way.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Anyways, here I was in some sort of graysh-ish kind of mood when this beautiful gift arrived at my door with a luxurious refillable perfume spray of the newest launch by Puredistance, created by Jan Ewoud and Parisian perfumer Cécile Zarokian.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">SHEIDUNA EXTRAIT (27%) as described by the brand is <i>"The perfect marriage between Oriental sensuality and Paris elegance.</i></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>The result is a rich and intense perfume inspired by the panoramic views and feel of golden sand dunes in the desert during sunset - soft, female curves changing from deep gold to warm, orangey red - embodying a promise of sensual comfort and silent seduction"</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: Ivan </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Solar</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Olfactive Notes: Lemon, tangerine, blackcurrant, aldehydes, Bulgarian rose essence, geranium, clove, vetiver, patchouli, amber woody, incense, benzoin, myrrh, tonic bean, vanilla pods and musks.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">SHEIDUNA Extrait to me is the perfect marriage of a warm comforting sensation and sensuality. </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">It feels like a complete therapy! Something like "let's work on your soul and once you are back on track, let's bring out all this amazing sex appeal you have!"</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">If you enjoyed <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2015/03/white-perfume-extrait-by-puredistance.html">WHITE Extrait</a> by the brand, you will fall in love for SHEIDUNA right away.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">While WHITE combined notes of Rose de Mai, orris, bergamot, vetyver, tonka beans, sandalwood and musks, SHEIDUNA brings the same rosy-creamy treats, but adds a touch of Arabia with incense, myrrh and vanilla.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Comparing SHEIDUNA with another desert inspired fragrance - <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2009/01/ormonde-jayne-taif-rose-and.html">TAI'F EDP</a> by Ormonde Jayne, they are both very luxurious, very sensual and very oriental, but Tai'f has a dusty, acid, spicy touch, while SHEIDUNA has a mellow, creamy "hug me" aura combined with a mystic deepness. Both are lovely, but SHEIDUNA really capture my heart.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">SHEIDUNA EXTRAIT is by far the best launch of the brand, and this is hard to evaluate because all Puredistance perfumes are beautifully crafted. But I don't recall closing my eyes and feeling heavenly for such a long long time. SHEIDUNA has that effect on us. It makes us feel adventurous, self assured and very feminine. I can declare without any doubt that it is my choice for a fragrance to wear during the Holidays. The scent will enhance the warm, cozy and joyful of Christmas. It is also the best choice for New Year's Eve because it is unique and very chic. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Puredistance Website - <a href="https://www.puredistance.com/e-store/puredistance-sheiduna-17/">SHEIDUNA PAGE</a></span><br />
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-72393341151829653912016-02-08T12:58:00.004-08:002016-02-08T13:12:29.336-08:00PLASIR D'AMOUR EDP by TECHNIQUE INDISCRÈTE<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUh8GDmue4JfQ4NIASjiWX8FZTS7ouU-Z7fC7kTHOQYyoyEqz02X10qLuLiVaJHppeAMLvlUR71zYTWpPRuB0DAYad5-AmodaBBsfVsVirbA-ZlyQyBmfOyWcsz66QDsUF0s2LmfpXOzJY/s1600/Veronica_Lake_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUh8GDmue4JfQ4NIASjiWX8FZTS7ouU-Z7fC7kTHOQYyoyEqz02X10qLuLiVaJHppeAMLvlUR71zYTWpPRuB0DAYad5-AmodaBBsfVsVirbA-ZlyQyBmfOyWcsz66QDsUF0s2LmfpXOzJY/s320/Veronica_Lake_.jpg" width="230" /></span></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Veronica Lake</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">PLASIR D'AMOUR EDP by <a href="http://www.techniqueindiscrete.com/plaisirdamour.html">Technique Indiscrete</a> (Belgian niche perfume brand) offers to reveal the Belle de Jour in you.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">With a chypre composition classic style you will plunge into bergamot, rose, jasmine, patchouli and a chypre accent. Kumquat, flour d'oranges, blue Lily of the valley, vetiver and muscs will play along to give you a complete diva experience. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">You will find seduction hidden in a room. You will find pleasure hidden in a secret love affair. You will find kinkiness hidden in desires and fetishes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Catherine Deneuve </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">But just like Severine (the character played by Catherine Deneuve in Carlos Bunuel's </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Belle du Jour) there is also a lady-like aura to the fragrance. </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">It is really up to you to decide if you are the wife, or the hooker!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Catherine Deneuve YSL</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I decided to wear this fragrance dressed very chic and far from sensual. I think wearing it with a red lipstick or a leather jacket is simply too obvious. It goes well. The challenge is to bring a very elegant persona to the fragrance because it is just as Louison, perfumer and owner of the brand describes:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>"She appears to be conservative...gives away to her naughty side that only a few get to discover..."</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Jackie O</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Jackie O, Grace Kelly, Audrey H., Tippy Hedren...they all could be wearing Plasir D'Amour </span>because somehow it contains the chic aura of the 60's. Truth is that PLASIR D'AMOUR EDP is a fragrance containing 100% of the iconic beauty of British model Jean Shrimpton! Classic, stylish...but a blast with her long lean legs and miniskirts!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Jean Shrimpton</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms", sans-serif;">Dedicated to J.S.</span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-76753541888030585772016-02-01T07:58:00.001-08:002016-02-01T08:04:38.524-08:00WINTER SMELLS<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms";">Embracing
the winter season is a positive way of experiencing what the season has to
offer. Instead of complaining about the short, greyish and snowy days, think about how chic winter is. You get to wear many accessories such as
gloves, hats, warm scarfs. You get to savor hearty soups, stews and
fondues...you have a good excuse to eat chocolates and high calorie
desserts... not to mention ice skating and all these amazing winter sports! The
landscape turns white, the air is crisp and clean and we get to hold our most beloved person in front a fire place...how romantic is that? </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms";"> So cheer up!</span><span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms";">In my past articles related to winter I offered fragrances that are more fashionable during cold weathers; fragrances that brought coziness and warmth; and uplifting perfumes to improve winter blues. I love these lists. But this year I wanted to add a different group of fragrances. The ones that either embrace or enhance the winter experience. I guess this time I don't want to offer you a scape route to false happiness. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms";">Fully embracing what Nature bring us brings real happiness and teach us how to adapt and grow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: Daniela Yaroslavsky* - Central Park NYC</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I also thought that it would be interesting to bring a bit of science for a change. After all, here you will find much more than just perfume reviews!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Have you ever wondered why winter smells different than summer?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">According to olfactory scientist Pamela Dalton from Monell Chemical Sense Center in Philadelphia it has to do with the speed of the movement of the </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">molecules that tend to be slower when temperatures drop. That is exactly why your perfume seems to have less diffusion during winter than on a hot summer day, therefore we also tend to use heavier compositions such as orientals.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">She also explains that we are less sensitive to smell and odors during the winter because our receptors inside our noses "seems to bury themselves deeper inside the nose" during this season. Neurologist Alan Dalton from Chicago explains that this is a protective response of our body against cold.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Being both neurologist and psychiatrist he adds<span style="color: #f4cccc;"> </span></span><i><span style="color: #e7c2c2; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 16.0pt;">"</span><span style="color: #e7c2c2; font-family: "trebuchet ms";">What you think a smell will be
impacts whether you like it and what you perceive it to be. So, if you go
outside in the winter and you are used to smelling snow or chestnuts in the
fire or whatever you happen to smell outside, that's what you will interpret
smells to be. Of course, the smells that are available to be smelled
differ as the seasons change. Summer brings flowers and dirt and barbecue
smoke. In the most wintery of places, there isn’t much outside on cold days
except snow, blustery wind and cars warming up. </span></i><i><span style="color: #e7c2c2; font-family: "trebuchet ms";">To
cope with the smell deprivation of winter, many people compensate by burning
more scented candles, cooking more aromatic stews and baking more cookies. That
creates a greater contrast between the indoor and outdoor environments.</span></i></div>
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<i><span style="color: #e7c2c2; font-family: "trebuchet ms";">"You
probably have an uptick of indoor scents in the winter," Dalton said.
"Homes are closed up, windows are closed. We concentrate the smells of
cooking and living."</span></i><span lang="PT-BR"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihkqUOEE3PtZo6c1bxHWE5L9OpPbO3AETjKbLaMxnjST6fPnk3LChm3f-ClAPTHQrLNWNeW7s9QE8fDhZZa6NmfFFzbrJYb9oGs3gRqDrBlQfINmb1uHzlHzxjFROshGtrK7GgXYhqI-tk/s1600/IMG_0216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihkqUOEE3PtZo6c1bxHWE5L9OpPbO3AETjKbLaMxnjST6fPnk3LChm3f-ClAPTHQrLNWNeW7s9QE8fDhZZa6NmfFFzbrJYb9oGs3gRqDrBlQfINmb1uHzlHzxjFROshGtrK7GgXYhqI-tk/s320/IMG_0216.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog/Hoboken - NJ</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #6fa8dc;">Snow by Demeter Fragrances - </span><span style="color: #f4cccc;">"</span></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms";"><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><i>Our Snow fragrance captures the scent of cold air and silent moments in the forest, after fresh snowfall.</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms";"><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><i>Snow comes from water vapour in the air. If the air is cold enough the water vapour crystallizes around a speck of ice or dust and falls to the earth as snow. If there is no speck for the water vapour to crystallize on, it will remain in the air as a cloud. <o:p></o:p></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms";"><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><i>After years of effort, we were able to capture the essence of snow in a chilling, cool, clean and fresh scent, with just a touch of dust (necessary to form flakes) and earth (upon which to rest). The Fragrance Foundation USA recognised this unique fragrance as the Best Fragrance in America in 2000, awarding Snow two FiFi Awards – the fragrance version of an Oscar".</i></span></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 16pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #6fa8dc;">Walking in the Air by CB I Hate Perfume - </span><span style="color: #f4cccc;">The scent of new fallen snow.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #6fa8dc;">Winter 1972 by CB I hate Perfume - </span><span style="color: #ead1dc;">T</span><span style="color: #f4cccc;">he smell of untouched new fallen snow, hand woollen mittens, covered with frost, a hint of frozen forest and sleeping earth. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGI9Kg1k4Nl3ARoy_49nqpFFv0g5VmfjznAzerpD8-9q6XcioFmVv_LT1At5AMSedPDNDFJwHpECuemA4VyBjff1srvZcONii1jux95FKHdSOlvudYB1aLliYbNdmI1ekE_H7Y1-_GgJ0A/s1600/IMG_0211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGI9Kg1k4Nl3ARoy_49nqpFFv0g5VmfjznAzerpD8-9q6XcioFmVv_LT1At5AMSedPDNDFJwHpECuemA4VyBjff1srvZcONii1jux95FKHdSOlvudYB1aLliYbNdmI1ekE_H7Y1-_GgJ0A/s320/IMG_0211.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; text-align: center;">Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog/Hudson River </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;">Fragrances capturing the the winter </span></span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;">atmosphere:</span><br />
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<span style="color: #6fa8dc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Lago Del Desert by Fueguia 1883</span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> - <i>"</i></span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; text-indent: -36pt;"><i>Perhaps the only fragrance ever
designed to recreate the scent of an immense body of ice. Named for a lake near
the border of Argentina and Chile, this beautiful area near Mount Fitz Roy
features forests, wildlife and a hanging glacier, which inspired this scent.
Lago del Desierto is a frozen aquatic, with sweet melon-like watery notes laced
with a bracing dose of ozone over clean musk and native Patagonian woods. While
this shares some attributes with other aquatic scents, there is something very
distinctive about the proportions of sweet, salt and ozone in this blend and
the unusual woods and musk create a sense of a specific forest. We can testify
that this smells frozen and wild and somewhat otherworldly. However, we have no
idea if it actually smells like a glacier, having never encountered one in real
life. We are happy to take the word of its creator that it does. A tribute to a
place far away from anywhere else". <b>Fragrance Notes:</b> </i></span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">musk, lenga wood and coihue wood.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #6fa8dc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Winter Woods by Sonoma Scents -</span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> "</span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>A cozy perfume featuring ambered woods with a touch of smoke, perfect for fall and winter. The long-lasting drydown of amber, woods, musk, and oakmoss is slightly sweet and gently smoky". </i><b>Fragrance Notes</b>: Guaiacwood, cedar, sandalwood, birch tar, cade, oakmoss absolute, castoreum, amber, labdanum absolute, vetiver, ambergris, musk.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #6fa8dc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Fire Intense by Sonoma Scents - </span><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">" </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">This smoky woods fragrance captures the oddly satisfying scent
of smoked woods carried by the crisp fall air or emanating from an evening
campfire. Fireside Intense opens with a fairly strong leather and smoke accord
that mellows into a drydown of beautiful smoky woods, soft leather, and a touch
of deep agarwoood. The fragrance has a very high percentage of natural oils and
resins that provide a soft but lasting natural, outdoorsy dry down. </span></i></span><i style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><b>Fragrance Notes</b>:</i><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> Guaiacwood,
nagarmotha
(Cyperus), Texas cedar,
Himalayan cedar,
Indian
sandalwood, agarwood,
birch tar and
cade, leather,
oakmoss absolute,
castoreum,
amber."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #6fa8dc;">König by YOSH - </span></span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>"This elegant masculine scent captures the dual nature of man -
gentleman and hunter, an alpine fragrance that evokes a king on a hunt, racing
through the Bavarian forest with aromatic bitters and crisp red apples in the
air. Beneath a layer of snow flowers, it opens into a white musc and deepens
into the scent of saddle leather and smoky firewood. KÖNIG, is the second fragrance in the “M” Series by San
Francisco perfumer, Yosh Han. “The “M” series is a departure from the ethereal
quality of her previous collections and explores fragrances that evoke our
deepest nature. KÖNIG embodies the archetypal King in the mature masculine
bringing the qualities of mythology into present time.” The modern man who
wears KÖNIG embraces his primal instincts while honoring the king within".</i> <b>Fragrance Notes:</b> bitters, sage, cypress, apple, smoky papyrus, snow
flowers, bois d'landes, vetiver, white musc, saddle leather, amber, firewood.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms";"><span style="color: #6fa8dc;">Albaho by Sulékó - </span></span><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms";">"</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms";">As if transported to a distant country beyond the mountains, where the sky is always pure, an icy freshness of mint and eucalyptus takes hold of you. The atmosphere is one of icy purity. </span></i></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms";"><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><i>Traversing the immensity of the forest, a woody scent takes you to the highest treetops. The spicy freshness of pine, the dry hardness of cedar and the smoky finish of guaiac wood open you to unexplored horizons. </i></span></span><i style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Majestic and powerful, you smell the distant scent of balsams, benzoin, tolu balm, labdanum. These warm and suave resins portend the presence of a life being created. And you know that, in the same way the snow covers the earth, cradle of life, the swan’s plumage is hiding a living thing. The swan is a being coming into life. It metamorphoses itself, hidden from all eyes, far away through forests and over mountains, in the most complete tranquillity. It is focusing on the essential – seeking harmony and inner peace".</i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; text-align: center;">Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog/Hoboken - NJ</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwiJ-wJdH7k8qY7cR-lBF9vzDjqWCBg2oKoCuZGDDrw6BKAWzHprPDtvilpuSDq16A3W7ACBceXqnPkGLncpEAhCk-wC_SSuN1OlBGKbueT1xchjw1Azvp-enouzpEBGXBWfu7Fw7wFeqb/s1600/IMG_1474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwiJ-wJdH7k8qY7cR-lBF9vzDjqWCBg2oKoCuZGDDrw6BKAWzHprPDtvilpuSDq16A3W7ACBceXqnPkGLncpEAhCk-wC_SSuN1OlBGKbueT1xchjw1Azvp-enouzpEBGXBWfu7Fw7wFeqb/s320/IMG_1474.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"> </span><span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog/Ramat HaGolan - Israel</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZZYwS3bA-C_3wNbY_HFB-w8dZLT9yLxNlS66AMKRyqufoVM5J91Y8cXDRSkV-vjbT5fcFsBc49vZXOr7Y9R4B8X20pJRyUOikEPXn1MU51uiEvpGwUgnP1JR_j-QcSIY3kcwL6yx2bDfr/s1600/10568989_1163026933716653_931714634827000091_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZZYwS3bA-C_3wNbY_HFB-w8dZLT9yLxNlS66AMKRyqufoVM5J91Y8cXDRSkV-vjbT5fcFsBc49vZXOr7Y9R4B8X20pJRyUOikEPXn1MU51uiEvpGwUgnP1JR_j-QcSIY3kcwL6yx2bDfr/s320/10568989_1163026933716653_931714634827000091_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Daniela Yaroslavsky* - Central Park NYC</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Past winter lists:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2009/07/winter-blues.html">Winter Blues</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2011/10/furry-leathery-cozy-warm-fragrances-for.html">Furry, leathery, cozy</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2013/01/perfume-rain-drops-fragrances-for-rainy.html">Rainy & Cold</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Trends:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2013/10/perfume-trends-fall-winter-2013-14-part.html">Fall & Winter Part I</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2013/10/perfume-trends-fall-winter-2013-14-part_24.html">Fall & Winter Part II</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2013/10/perfume-trends-fall-winter-part-iii.html">Fall & Winter Part IV</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2013/10/perfume-trends-fall-winter-2014-part-iv.html">Fall & Winter Part V</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">You can also search in the blog search engine WINTER and you will get many articles related to this season and many perfume options!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">*Daniela Yaroslavsky is a Brazilian amateur photographer who captures the most beautiful landscapes of NY and NJ and who was kind enough to lend me some of these spectacular moments of her life abroad.</span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-7452670729624299072016-01-19T13:25:00.002-08:002016-01-20T04:09:28.221-08:00FRAGRANCE LABEL TRENDS - PERFUME PACKING<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; text-align: justify;">VISUAL AUTHENTICITY TREND</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The visual authenticity trend has been in the market for a while now and it will continue to shine in 2016. As this trend has evolved, it has moved beyond small artisan brands and is becoming more mainstream itself. With the rise of niche perfumery consumers are fleeting away from mainstream products looking for more emotional and personal experiences with their fragrance (check my last article about <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2015/01/niche-enniched.html">NICHE</a>) That said, v</span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms";">isual authenticity is one response
to shifting perfume consumer values to desire more
real, quality and honest products. Products with uncomplicated appearance, yet
are crafted; maybe even vintage inspired. Fragrances that can create inadvertent human connection.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><i>The digital age is fostering a decline
in human connection which is most prevalent office Gen Z consumers.
Because of this, these shoppers are not responding to traditional
established corporate brands. They want more. They demand more. They
desire a real, trusted, human connection to the products and the brands
that they consume. This connection can be expressed in different ways,
from a connection to nature, to the written word, to the past, or
to simply to other people. This is beyond hipster. This style is a
rejection of technology. A pre- computer era style, if you will.(Andrew Gibbs).</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Some perfume brands have this in mind. To reconnect with perfume consumers. They do this by showcasing the craft, quality, and
skill in both the product and the packaging design. Some of this trend's characteristics are: handwritten, raw, freeform or sketchy typography/ hand rendered, simple illustrations/ may include vintage inspired references or typography/ natural color palettes.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><span style="color: #232323; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></span><span style="color: #232323; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;">I have selected a few examples for you:</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #f4cccc;"><span style="color: #232323; font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;">Le Labo manifesto defines that the idea that luxury relies on craftsmanship. In their website you will find the community craft which shows all craftsmen and craftswomen involved in the creation of a Le Labo fragrance. Le Labo labeling relies on customised labels with personal messages. All fragrances of the brand come with a Lab type of label with typewriter fonts, with the list of the ingredients, and all fragrances are mixed and labeled in front of the customers, so they can have a real and handcrafted experience. They are the pioneers of this type of uncomplicated and yet luxurious fragrance production.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Their mission is<i> "to create environments where people can rediscover the wonderful world of scents that is too often overlooked or forgotten in our modern multi-tasked world". </i>In terms of labeling Demeter provides a simple label with little phrases such as "pick me up" Cologne spray suggesting a "conversation" with the consumer.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Maison Margiela is bringing a different type of labeling where you will find the inspiration, a fragrance description and a suggestion of the style on the bottle itself. Like Le Labo you will see here the trend of using typewriter font and simplicity.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Leo & Harper are innovating with a simple label that talks to you. It asks you questions!</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Olfactive Studio chose labels that look like a cut piece of tape with handwritten typography. Very simple; very chic.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Swedish perfume house Agonist is now offering a new bottle and label design that brings just a list of the ingredients composing the fragrance and by that they are also bringing a clearer communication with consumers.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Authenticity and human touch is trending now due to social medias because they are allowing brands to be more accessible and more approachable and this type of connection is now extended to packing.The handcrafted look is brought by unique designs and handwritten fonts. The overwhelming amount of information that social media is offering is also overloading consumers in a way that they are longing for a simpler, clearer, easier and quicker way to communicate. Simple minimalistic designs are reflecting this need to quickly understand if the product fits their needs.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Like I have been saying for years "Less is always more!"</span></div>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-73100667722544278882015-12-10T06:40:00.000-08:002015-12-10T06:40:08.561-08:00FLEURS ET FLAMMES EDP BY ANTONIO ALESSADRIA - The best was saved for last II<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTeO49mxZNGfLRu7duZ-Mjgqq0ex2j-HEhl9sNso2RKxxhHn6FScQEjx6FeQl1R2uV6XqLWOWid8zEjjxl8irUN8pq0wx7CDnJUtXQjHGX43fHrv6DZ8aS8Xi2mO2XVW059ah0TehqhA0M/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+2.43.08+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTeO49mxZNGfLRu7duZ-Mjgqq0ex2j-HEhl9sNso2RKxxhHn6FScQEjx6FeQl1R2uV6XqLWOWid8zEjjxl8irUN8pq0wx7CDnJUtXQjHGX43fHrv6DZ8aS8Xi2mO2XVW059ah0TehqhA0M/s320/Screen+Shot+2015-12-05+at+2.43.08+PM.png" width="273" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Continuing to bring beauties for the Holidays today we will explore Italian fragrances!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Fleurs et Flammes EDP by</span> <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2014/04/antonio-alessadria-parfums-italian.html" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Antonio Alessandria</a><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> is the forth perfume launched by the brand and the most beautiful one; <span style="font-size: large;">if not the best of 2015 at all!</span></span></div>
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<b style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Olfactive notes of:</b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> Galbanum, bergamot, citrus, summer fruits, green and mineral notes, carnation, lily, rose, white flowers, soft woods, almond milk effect, musk.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b>Description by + Q Perfume Blog:</b> green, flowery, MILKY-almondy, warm, SMOKEY.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Antonio's nose signature is the combination of Italian citruses, beautiful heart notes and a warm heavier base. </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">All fragrances of his collection are luxurious, well blended and beautifully composed. Fleurs et Flammes EDP is not an exception. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">FLEURS ET FLAMMES EDP</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: Antonio Alessandria</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Here citruses were combined with galbanum and green notes, bringing to this fragrance the a </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">verdant opening that will be much loved if you like the contrast of green and mellow. </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">If you found <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2010/04/infusion-diris-by-prada-in-2007-daniela.html">Untitled by </a><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2010/04/infusion-diris-by-prada-in-2007-daniela.html" style="color: #0000ee;">Margiela</a> exquisite,<span style="color: #0000ee;"> </span>you will find this fragrance much more interesting because </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">you will find the combination of galbanum, citruses, musk, flowers and fire, but </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">you won't find the fatty and ashtray notes of Untitled EDP that is not so appealing to the senses.Also, </span><span style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms', sans-serif;">If you loved </span><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2009/01/ormonde-jayne-champaca-india-and.html" style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms', sans-serif;">Champaca by Ormonde Jayne</a><span style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms', sans-serif;"> you will also love Fleurs et Flammes EDP because although both have no common notes in their compositions, they present somehow the same flower-creamy/milky-smoke-y combo beautifully explored.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'trebuchet ms', sans-serif;">Fleurs et Flammes EDP has a sensuality that is not imposed. It is revealed in flower petals and a mineral-animalic combination of notes. The mellow gourmandise touch is presented by a softly blended milk and almond-y warmth and it brings the idea of youth. Youth translated to freshness; first time falling in love kind of aura. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: trebuchet ms, sans-serif;">Alessandria presents somehow a classic kind of perfume wrapped into a hip, contemporary fragrance. You won't be taken to a past distant era, but you will find the quality and the expertise that most modern launches are lacking these days.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: trebuchet ms, sans-serif;">Perfect for winter times, wearing Fleurs et Flammes EDP you will feel wrapped in both coziness and happiness.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: trebuchet ms, sans-serif;">You can find Fleurs et Flammes EDP at his <a href="http://www.antonioalessandria.it/">website</a>.</span><br />
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http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-26590150452093719892015-11-24T07:34:00.001-08:002015-11-24T07:53:39.419-08:00NANA-M PARFUMS - THE BEST WAS SAVED FOR LAST!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #38761d;">THE </span><span style="color: #cc0000;">BEST</span><span style="color: #38761d;"> WAS SAVED FOR LAST!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">This is the time of the year where I share some of the fragrances that I think are worth checking to wear during the Holidays season or to share with someone you really love!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Nana-M is a fresh new brand from France, so chances are that you are giving a real exclusive gift!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgthKomr_AKmIPP6J7a7L_0diBPNcnI5xIMib1aZvTqK4F7W-ze_RpdoOf74LR_Qij5hB4bFcVU5m54HzfkPk1GANVAm_g-kFYklQ23cuXarSol21-xfNWybCBjtGWoIfh-hTquNBZZR3vA/s1600/12036539_1024133417617005_8978266913325747442_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgthKomr_AKmIPP6J7a7L_0diBPNcnI5xIMib1aZvTqK4F7W-ze_RpdoOf74LR_Qij5hB4bFcVU5m54HzfkPk1GANVAm_g-kFYklQ23cuXarSol21-xfNWybCBjtGWoIfh-hTquNBZZR3vA/s400/12036539_1024133417617005_8978266913325747442_n.jpg" width="375" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Photo credit: Nana-M Parfums</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Nana-M Parfums is the newest niche perfumery brand coming from the world's most famous perfume capital Grasse, launching this year a collection of signature fragrances called Rêves or dreams. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The nose and owner Céline Ripert combined her expertise of decades in the perfumery industry, her identity and the savour faire grassois, creativity, sensibility and local raw materials, to offer to an exclusive clientele her olfactive dreams, presented in hand made luxurious round bottles developed by glass blowing artist Christophe Saba.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The brand is debuting 08 fragrances, all EDPs 20%, called Rêve Fou, Rêve Piquant, Rêve de Sensualité, Rêve Romantique, Rêve Royal, Rêve Erotique, Poudre de Rêve and Une Île, un Rêve.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">RÊVE FOU EDP - It is a oriental fruity perfume combining traditional classic perfumery with a modern touch with notes of Pink Pepper CO2, Fir balsam Absolute, Davana EO, Bitter orange EO, Rose de Mai Absolute, Raspberry EO, Cinnamon EO, Violet, Benjoim, Siam, Vanilla Absolute, Patchouli EO and Incense. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">RÊVE PIQUANT EDP - A woody-spicy-citrusy fragrance playing with the contrast of cold fresh and deep warm notes of Ginger CO2, Grapefruit EO, Lemon EO, Green Mandarine EO, Black Pepper CO2, Litsea Cubeba EO, Cedarwood Virginia EO, White flowers, Benjoin, Vanilla Absolute, Guaic wood EO and Tobacco Absolute.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">REVÊ DE SENSUALITÉ EDP - A chypre aromatic composition where sophistication and sensuality with simplicity is brought with notes of Lavender EO and Absolute, Tuberose Absolue, Patchouli EO, Sandalwood EO, Musks salicylates and Vanilla Absolute.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">RÊVE ROMANTIQUE EDP - A dreamy yellow flowery romantic fragrance bringing notes of Green mandarine EO, Cocoa, Fir balsam Absolute, Apricot, Mimosa Absolute, Jasmine Absolute, Broom Absolute, Cassis Absolute, Amber, Everlasting Absolute, powdery musks and Hay EO.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">RÊVE ROYAL EDP - An opulent, linear </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">woody-leathery perfume with</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> notes of Osmanthus Absolute, Orris Absolute, Davana EO, Cashmere and Guaiac woods EO, Mate Absolute, Honey, Soft leather, Benjoim, Vanilla Absolute and Cistus Absolute. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">RÊVE EROTIQUE EDP - Bringing an animalic sensuality the fragrance it combines notes of Davana EO, Rum Absolute, Cinnamon bark EO, Sandalwood, Violet, Guaiac wood EO, Vanilla Absolute, Tonka Absolute, Musk and animals amber.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">POUDRE DE RÊVE EDP - A powdery and ultra feminine floral composition with notes of Pink pepper CO2, Ginger CO2, Freesia, Cedar Atlas OE, Orris, Rose de Mai Absolute, Heliotrope, Cashmere wood, Ambrette, Vetiver OE, Vanilla and Sandal OE. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">UNE ÎLE, UN RÊVE EDP - An aromatique white floral bouquet bringing the aura of Cannes with notes of Rosemary Absolute, Eucalyptus EO, Cistus EO, Ylang Ylang, Tuberose Absolute, Moroccan Jasmine Absolute, Orange bloom Absolute, Vanilla Absolute, Patchouli EO, Benjoim, Beewax Absolute. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The Bottle</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The fragrances are presented in heavy glass hand made bottles by artisan Christophe Saba combined with a classy red atomizer. When less is more, you won't find incrusted stones or golden charms; just a very beautiful thick round glass bottle with a Murano style with tiny bubbles in the bottom. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The package</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">All fragrances come in a round black mate package with a beautiful velvety red ribbow.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Nana-M Parfums is offering in this debut collection perfumes that have in common some elements: most compositions have a strong presence. </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">That said the person wearing it needs to have a personality that goes along with it. I had no problem with that even thou sometimes I like to wear low profile </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">perfumes. I think it is for the fact that most of them are absolutely gorgeous. </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">IMO the brand is soon to become a cult brand among perfumistas all over the world.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">OBS.:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">63ml refills and body milk are also available for all fragrances.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">You can discover each fragrance by purchasing a discovery set of miniature bottles or free perfumed cards.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Nana-M can be purchased on line at <a href="http://www.nana-m.com/">http://www.nana-m.com</a> or in Grasse at their showroom located at 52, Chemin de la Tête de Lion, Grasse - France.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The brand is offering real nice ideas/packing for Christmas gifts! </span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-37719141018838511562015-11-03T12:36:00.002-08:002015-11-03T12:49:41.597-08:00CALVIN KLEIN'S FRAGRANCE MARKETING STRATEGIES OVER THE DECADES <div style="text-align: justify;">
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<i><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">"Calvin
Klein used to be raw. In the ’90s the brand was seductive, uncensored, and with
the help of a topless Kate Moss, the essence of cool".</span></i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">In 1993 Kate Moss met with Calvin Klein. At that time
the brand was in a crisis and Kate was not famous. Calvin Klein loved the fact
that Kate was plain, real and beautiful. They wanted her to be shot shirtless,
although she had small breasts. She was always shot in black-and-white,
sometimes nude, sometimes in a black tank and cotton underwear. Her stark,
fragile beauty amplified by lank hair and little makeup. Fabien Baron, the
creative director launched what was defined as the heroin chic look. In a
culture scared of Aids the sex approach of the campaign was very risky,
but somehow it actually worked. The campaign brought the finances of
Calvin Klein back to profit and also launched Kate's career. She was soon the
sole face of Calvin Klein jeans, underwear and fragrance.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR_cY4FvzRxbIGxHNLa4MlcFkQgVFkfsLos9skBdtoXU44RQgLQ1feP5b6Zz9a959WxsJh64d9LvmWLSU3cGOgmg268pDLk8N7iG_1mtQegbxE_CAUMaBlaDWufw0epm5JSF_MjVbm6oXF/s1600/pwu2we7uyakka8tabyel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR_cY4FvzRxbIGxHNLa4MlcFkQgVFkfsLos9skBdtoXU44RQgLQ1feP5b6Zz9a959WxsJh64d9LvmWLSU3cGOgmg268pDLk8N7iG_1mtQegbxE_CAUMaBlaDWufw0epm5JSF_MjVbm6oXF/s400/pwu2we7uyakka8tabyel.jpg" width="273" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Today we know that Kate was closing the door of the excessiveness
of the 80's. So did the fragrance the brand was about to launch - CK ONE
EDT. </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"> CK ONE EDT was designed a fragrance that embodied, in
its flat little screw- top bottle, the disaffected, sexually ambivalent grunge
youth of the moment. CK ONE EDT, with its unconventional black-and-white
advertisements filled with moping, androgynous models, was arguably the most
perfectly tailored fragrance ever pitched to one market, breaking industry
rules and records, selling twenty bottles per minute at its peak. </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">A unisex brand that was so authentically grunge it was
carried in record stores alongside albums by Nirvana.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj9lx45lOjVK79B3sT2RR_5YxwK_U2LToGAuUCWRxsunAdeLg0j4FSBjRF1_1N3MfKDE5xmu-mx52TXnxPVVu5jny7WfQc1dpKHBz66EK0rIJU_jj-ka11BLPL6PwJmr1ONSDhqegDD1Yr/s1600/1994_Fone_94_Meis_kate+copie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj9lx45lOjVK79B3sT2RR_5YxwK_U2LToGAuUCWRxsunAdeLg0j4FSBjRF1_1N3MfKDE5xmu-mx52TXnxPVVu5jny7WfQc1dpKHBz66EK0rIJU_jj-ka11BLPL6PwJmr1ONSDhqegDD1Yr/s400/1994_Fone_94_Meis_kate+copie.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG_LQOS3fIUyEq47mivsIAfEzI2wkUz0bJdmL9mDo31CFQubz-KDE289POjzxyy-5XPo_9yN3zWg8kw9BNSDrnTPwb12l6qFwQyBTgo-7H8hT-vuxyfOVxRhdwV_cusaDxQl09ecaKE3Gy/s1600/profumi-ckone.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG_LQOS3fIUyEq47mivsIAfEzI2wkUz0bJdmL9mDo31CFQubz-KDE289POjzxyy-5XPo_9yN3zWg8kw9BNSDrnTPwb12l6qFwQyBTgo-7H8hT-vuxyfOVxRhdwV_cusaDxQl09ecaKE3Gy/s400/profumi-ckone.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">The fragrance was created by Alberto Morillas and Harry Fremont, with top notes of pineapple, green notes, mandarin orange, papaya, bergamot, cardamom and lemon; middle notes of nutmeg, violet, orris root, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and rose; and base notes of sandalwood, amber, musk, cedar and oakmoss.</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">It broke gender barriers and was marketed as a SHARED fragrance instead of unisex. CK ONE EDT had an introductory budget of $17-18 million, which may be largest budget for any of the so-called prestige fragrances introduced in 1994 and reached 250 million dollars in sales in its first year.</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">"Be hot. Be cool. Just BE."</span></i></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: center;">
<i><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><br /></span></i></div>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4bEMlEzyi8xo2FyuEpd6PfPUHisLDinNB5umHS_80y__ZPe3mWKBp1RJF3QI3Eqm0YSQ_ptEO0z6WdMG-jTjrsQeF8QS2rsfJswCwY4KbLKGOi2DNvtkE2oqdBthuk6Z6X-hEjLm0ZqGm/s1600/CKbe2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4bEMlEzyi8xo2FyuEpd6PfPUHisLDinNB5umHS_80y__ZPe3mWKBp1RJF3QI3Eqm0YSQ_ptEO0z6WdMG-jTjrsQeF8QS2rsfJswCwY4KbLKGOi2DNvtkE2oqdBthuk6Z6X-hEjLm0ZqGm/s400/CKbe2.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">In 1996 Calvin Klein did it again with CK Be EDT. I</span><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">t was one of the best selling new scents EVER. </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">The company described the scent as “raceless, genderless,
ageless, and shared statement. ” It was called “the new fragrance for people.”
The ads, once again shot by Avedon, were like a amalgam of all the work that
had been put into creating a unique aesthetic for the brand, it was Heroin Chic
at its finest: waifish and disoriented models who were young, multicultural and
highly androgynous gathered into shot looking bored and gorgeous. The
commercials showed Kate Moss speaking into the camera talking about “one more
bad habit you have to break.” The ad ends with a voiceover: </span><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Be hot. Be cool. Just BE. Calvin Klein had done it. He
created a media virus, an answer to any question that Generation X might have
had: Just Be. All this from basic denim, a quiet unisex fragrance and white
cotton underwear. His empire was built.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Each Calvin Klein ad campaign had its own
characteristic image and its own particular target market. While the ads for CK
ONE EDT portrayed groups of young, multicultural, mostly androgynous urban men
and women, the CK Be EDT campaign featured an intimate and raw close-up of the
individuals within the CK ONE EDT groups. According to Pauline Mancuso
- Calvin Klein's CEO back then, ‘‘The CK be EDT campaign pulls you into these
people’s lives.</span><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;">’’</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">"Freedom and possibilities
of young people to explore the world".</span></i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuYY3OdSpWCJKKnvHoqWRBTB9mWyv3PYJugw7tSyVpOkAqwsK0ttXxAudIf2dCPUlDgC0ooXw3HbAU8qF-emhj7orbu2H-JUiaA4ifbhzNRb4N-ZTKW8q5W41TaWikEBmMKqw1WhAB3fvF/s1600/ckin2u.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuYY3OdSpWCJKKnvHoqWRBTB9mWyv3PYJugw7tSyVpOkAqwsK0ttXxAudIf2dCPUlDgC0ooXw3HbAU8qF-emhj7orbu2H-JUiaA4ifbhzNRb4N-ZTKW8q5W41TaWikEBmMKqw1WhAB3fvF/s400/ckin2u.jpg" width="286" /></span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; text-align: left;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">CK in2U fragrances were launched in 2007. The brand
launched two separated masculine and the feminine versions and it was described
as the fragrance for the internet connected or techno-sexuals, a term the
company made up to describe its intended audience of thumb-texting young people
whose romantic lives are defined in part by the casual hookup. CK IN2U
expressed freedom and possibilities of young people to explore the world. </span><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">That same year, during its launch, Coty executives
gathered to explain that the fragrances were a portrait of a
generation physically bold, but emotionally guarded; having grown up using
computers as a primary means of interaction. Now young adults, they are
post-Abercrombie, post-Juicy Couture and over any number of scents derived from
the essences of Jennifer Lopez, Britney Spears, and Paris Hilton.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">As Coty's Vice president for Global marketing Lori Singer
explained about the fragrances targeted group of 20-ish youngsters </span><span style="color: #1a1718; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;"> </span><i><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">“They
don’t want to feel that they are being marketed to or spoken at. They are much
more empowered, but they are unshockable. They have seen everything from 9/11
to Paris Hilton and Britney Spears without underwear. They see everything
instantaneously that goes on in the world.”</span></i><i><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;"> </span></i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><br /></span></span></i>
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/BV_Pa85UKBQ/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/BV_Pa85UKBQ?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">To seem more authentic, Calvin Klein was trying to
reach consumers on their own turf by creating an online community,
whatareyouin2.com, patterned after sites like MySpace and Facebook. The company
invited students at film schools around the country to submit shorts addressing
the theme of “what are you into?” and their clips were to be found on the
site. The response to CK in2u among fragrance retailers at trade shows was
so strong, the company said, that it delayed its introduction by a month to
increase production to close to two million units, nearly twice the 258
initial volume of its Euphoria women’s fragrance in 2005. (Eric Wilson edited)</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Gottlieb, the perfumer who created the fragrance
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images, the fragrance is meant to be quick-acting and immediately recognizable
on the skin. Their food and drinks, like Smartwater and coffee-flavored colas,
and gum charged with flavor crystals, all come in high-definition, intensified
varieties. So their fragrance should also seem busy. </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><span style="font-family: "caslonfourseventyonebq"; font-size: 11pt;"><br /></span></span></i></span></div>
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<i><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">“It is about two individuals
defined by who they are, not what they are”</span></i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: center; text-autospace: none;">
<i><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><br /></span></i></div>
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</span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjTVKURW1lhFhbBIgVKI8TzBYCXC57OMuV6hikIKjCkUHpzsq9cDPij3Hwx49frRvMceT-UpaM54e1i2UQcQ_-H3uBGRRXZPrwHQgPsY7NpWQr9Jj3UH47_sHVM_g2VtW9r-1HzA05UtGC/s1600/o.35550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjTVKURW1lhFhbBIgVKI8TzBYCXC57OMuV6hikIKjCkUHpzsq9cDPij3Hwx49frRvMceT-UpaM54e1i2UQcQ_-H3uBGRRXZPrwHQgPsY7NpWQr9Jj3UH47_sHVM_g2VtW9r-1HzA05UtGC/s400/o.35550.jpg" width="266" /></span></a></div>
<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 11pt;"><br /></span></span>
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;">The newest launch for 2016 - CK2 EDT</span></b><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 15.0pt;"> Ten years later Calvin Klein is putting its chips again
into a fragrance for a new generation - The Millennials. Not as unisex or
shared, but now it is introducing a new term: gender-neutral. As Coty describes
it: </span><i><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-size: 17.0pt;">"CK2 embodies the
thrill of life and celebrates the diversity of connections between two people.
Two individuals defined by who they are, not what they are. one gender-free
fragrance for a man or a woman, without prejudices, to unite and create an
experience that can be shared together in love, lust and friendship. We come
together void of stereotypes and free of conformity; a youthful connection
between 2 people to celebrate the differences that make our connections richer
and define what makes us, us. Life is better when we are 2."</span></i><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 17.0pt;">The composition</span></b><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 17.0pt;">Defined as urban woody - fresh scent, </span><b><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-size: 17.0pt;">CK2 EDT is developed by I</span></b><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">nternational Flavors and Fragrances</span><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 17.0pt;"> with notes of wasabi, mandarin and violet
leaf, wet cobblestones and orris concrete accords, rose absolute and a woody
base of vetiver, sandalwood and incense.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 17.0pt;">According to Melisa Goldie, interviews by WWD,
the brand wishes to target young consumers:</span><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"> <i>“The
launch of CK2 represents an extension of our overall brand strategy to reach a
younger consumer base through modern, authentic storytelling. Given its
relevant cultural messaging and youthful spirit, CK2 aligns well with this
evolving approach to consumer engagement.”</i></span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Camillo Pane from Coty explained to WWD that they are
targeting a new generation that values authenticity and fluidity in their
everyday lives, and CK2 encapsulates this in every facet of the brand, whether
via the scent, packaging, or campaign creative.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">The company also gave details about its distribution
strategy: <i>“The launch of CK2 brings a new fragrance proposition to the
marketplace with its relevant and disruptive brand messaging. We will launch
exclusively in Macy’s in the U.S. in February, and then broaden distribution
through alternative channels, while telling the story of CK2 through engaging
media tools that resonate with the target audience.” (</i>Distribution is
expected to top out at 2,000 doors in the U.S. by yearend 2016).</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<b><span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">The design of the new bottle</span></b><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">The bottle, a thick glass cylinder set in a clear base
that allows the fragrance to be viewed either upside down or right side up, is
intended to reinterpret minimalism and the minimalist design continues on the
outside packaging, which is a drawing of the bottle inside.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">The advertising campaign, shot by Ryan McGinley,
includes both TV and print and is intended to celebrate the diversity of people’s
connections. “It is about two individuals defined by who they are, not what
they are. The campaign features four stories that fold into one another in
unexpected ways. Four couples play out free spirited, raw narratives of today’s
youth. The connections emphasize the thrill of life shared by two people and
magnify the uniqueness of each relationship in our lives.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">From what I watched, I saw young people finding
sex partners via social media...pretty real. Twenty years later Calvin Klein is
doing it again - portraying one entire generation in one fragrance, one
concept.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #f0c0c1; font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"> Twenty two years from the launch of CK ONE EDT,
twenty years after the CK be EDT and nine years after the launch of CK
IN2U EDT, one can affirm that if Luca Turin once said that fragrances are not
about sex he was wrong. One can even study the sexual behaviour of
generations just by analysing the marketing strategies to sell Calvin
Klein's perfumes!</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms"; font-size: 11pt;">
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-58288256677392680632015-10-28T13:18:00.000-07:002015-10-28T13:32:41.826-07:00CHRYSOLITHE #11 BY OLIVIER DURBANO<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDsZFV2vZoBl-5CyaqsY6_foeiQoUs6v1Xhnpp_aj_5HEyJcBaXy20ind8z0hbNVP7oPleVQnRrv3KaLX3vNgQGs2lUEJvGFSoYTIeOuZ2nXk_VHEf73qUN_Ns9YbBxVEIGx1q-M946rY8/s1600/IMG_0861.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDsZFV2vZoBl-5CyaqsY6_foeiQoUs6v1Xhnpp_aj_5HEyJcBaXy20ind8z0hbNVP7oPleVQnRrv3KaLX3vNgQGs2lUEJvGFSoYTIeOuZ2nXk_VHEf73qUN_Ns9YbBxVEIGx1q-M946rY8/s640/IMG_0861.jpg" width="380" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">CHRYSOLITHE #11 BY OLIVIER DURBANO</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Photo Credit: + Q PERFUME BLOG</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>Launch:</b> 2015</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>Perfume House:</b> Olivier Durbano</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>Olfactive Family:</b> Woody-Aromatic-Spicy</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>Olfactive Notes:</b> Hyssop, cumin, Vervain, cinnamon, black pepper, ginger, sage essence, rosemary, jasmine, cedar wood, vetiver, sage absolute, ambergris, musk.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>Description by the brand:</b> <i>Chrysolithe combines ancestral virtues and the mysterious aroma of hyssop, symbol of purity and humility, with the precious and majestic power of cedar, pungent fragrance and revitalising properties; infused with white sage, "desert sage', with its purifying power, and mixed with black cumin, known as "the seed of blessing" invoking all the virtues of strength and harmony, Chrysolithe gives out and pure luminous vapour, marked by peace and wisdom.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>Description by + Q Perfume Blog</b>: soft, illuminated, dry, spiced, fresh, timeless, genderless. (⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">⭐️</span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">In 2009 I asked Olivier what he considered an excellent perfume. Back then the answer was <i><b>"</b><span style="color: #f4cccc;">Sincere, gentle and devoted to make women look beautiful.</span></i></span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i><b> </b>A very personal and essential "skin", like an emotional story, a pure dream, a movie between soul, or mind and body...Something also with memory, in the past and at the moment... and why not to the future. Something that elevates your being, in order to transform life into something better and more beautiful".</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Chrysolithe #11 has definitely all that. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Being mystical, the perfume was named after the ancient Greek Khrusolithos which means gold stone. The stone, referred in the Torah in Hebrew as Peridot, meaning "transparent", is the 10th precious stone that adorned Aaron's breast plate (representing the tribe of Dan) and the 7th of the foundation stones of New Jerusalem.</span></div>
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<i><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">"We are told not to seek treasures in this life
where moth and rust will destroy them, but as we can see, God has chosen to
build this city with the finest of gems, and the richest of materials. And
each of the materials used in the construction of this New Jerusalem has a
divine purpose and reason to be used where it is.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>And
the foundations of the wall of the city were garnished with all manner of
precious stones The first foundation was jasper; the second, sapphire; the
third, a chalcedony; the fourth, an emerald; the fifth, sardonyx; the sixth,
sardius; the seventh, chrysolite; the eighth, beryl; the ninth, a topaz; the
tenth, a chrysoprasus; the eleventh, a jacinth; the twelfth, an amethyst. And
the twelve gates were twelve pearls; every several gate was of one pearl: and
the street of the city was pure gold, as it was transparent glass". Book of <span style="color: #f4cccc;"><b><span style="text-decoration: none;">Revelation 21:19-21</span></b>.</span></i></span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;">The perfume bottle is also is numbered - </span>Chrysolithe #11. According to the perfumer, the number eleven in the Arab culture represents the number of steps one must take to understand God. In China, it represents the TAO, the mother earth, the path through heaven. To Jewish culture 11 is a master number for the elevated spiritually.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #ffe599; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">In that sense CHRYSOLITHE #11 is indeed a fragrance that uplifts the spirit for its purity and freshness. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">To me the perfume has the smell of Israel. To be more specific, of the Galilee. This combination of spices is found in a typical landscape of the Mediterranean region called in French <i>Garigue </i>which is described as a low open scrubland with many evergreen shrubs, low trees, aromatic herbs, and bunch grasses found in poor or dry soil. Chrysolite #11 has the smell of Garigue herbs and bushes. A smell that I captured in <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/2010/12/holy-land-of-milk-honey.html">2011 in a trip to Israel</a>. At that time I was already interested in smellscapes of countries and cities. I brought back with me a booklet with all the herbs I collected and when I flip the pages of this booklet, I smell a scent that is very similar to some of the notes in the composition Olivier's perfume. I travel in time and space to Israel in a fraction of second.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSoRGN68dVB2Sorh-LZKQGpSN3O8R5g_qGmjepKE7FkwJF3ugcMKa8_LvKb0ykH9GpjFct7tY4IYv40ze5sK8Ku0HoliGWTDQzo3XUS7KXPMRqbEbf2uqsSnMUA4KKbwGWdtovfFBWBiqf/s1600/IMGP3613.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSoRGN68dVB2Sorh-LZKQGpSN3O8R5g_qGmjepKE7FkwJF3ugcMKa8_LvKb0ykH9GpjFct7tY4IYv40ze5sK8Ku0HoliGWTDQzo3XUS7KXPMRqbEbf2uqsSnMUA4KKbwGWdtovfFBWBiqf/s400/IMGP3613.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Galilee</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Now it would be odd to us perfume wearers to smell like the Galilee. You won't, I promise.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">CHRYSOLITHE #11 is a woody dry scent, with a freshness of an early morning bath and a flowery powdery touch that is simply lovely. It brings a rather spicy and strong opening, but as time passes it becomes a gentle perfume with a mellow dry down.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Needless to say that it reflexes 100% the personality of its creator. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">To add a mystery in the whole thing I must tell here what I have already told in my facebook and something that I think it is quite magical:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">As I progressed in my meditations I started to see the number eleven everywhere. Mostly the hours 11:11 (am or pm). No matter what I was doing, every time I checked the time or made a phone call or entered to facebook via cell the hour was there 11:11. I began to see it in car and street plates, in websites, in movies. EVERYWHERE. If I wished to see, it would not appear before my eyes. It did and it does only when I am not thinking about it.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I had a major question mark in my mind about what could it mean. If it had any meaning at all... The answer came the day the fragrance arrived. Not only it contains the number 11 in its name, but in the description of the fragrance written by Olivier Durban he explains about the meanings of number 11. I was in a total shock when I read the flyer that came with the perfume. It all made sense. I now know that it has to be with my spiritual elevation. F</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">or that I will be FOREVER grateful to Olivier.</span><br />
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-55138610127747580972015-08-16T08:13:00.000-07:002015-08-16T12:55:28.928-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqz4o3zC03SD5nSGihIVKSc3hvABF9ByLWODZLIXwtk8kRl0VUcXcvlI6QQldVkugjG571mEvo_4-IRGx8vOc6YGNtYefoYG2q3KwCkKULmA_U52XmUHziZmct1sZiGfS0FQglzDyGHL4u/s1600/IMG_6201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqz4o3zC03SD5nSGihIVKSc3hvABF9ByLWODZLIXwtk8kRl0VUcXcvlI6QQldVkugjG571mEvo_4-IRGx8vOc6YGNtYefoYG2q3KwCkKULmA_U52XmUHziZmct1sZiGfS0FQglzDyGHL4u/s400/IMG_6201.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">RUBINI Fundamental</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Photo credit: + Q PERFUME BLOG</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;">Launch: 2015</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;">Country : Italy (Verona)</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;">Perfumer: Cristiano Canali/ </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 16px;">Olfactive Director: Ermano Picco/ Package Designer: Francesca Gotti/ Brand Owner: Andrea Rubini</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;">Olfactive Notes: Bergamot, Tangerine, Hesperidic Flowers, Soave Grapes, Maquis, Florentine Iris, Beeswax, Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Vetiver Java, Velvet Accord, Leather</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;">Description by the brand: <i>"Verona, 1937. The brightness of colognes and brillantines Pietro Rubini provided to barbershops of the town is the first welcome getting into the small perfume shop downtown. A face powder says a lady and suddenly the air is filled in the fine powder and alluring smells. The heart of the scene costumes and lights exalts the dense smell of greasepaint he often gives as a gift to opera singers at the Arena to promote himself. The most daring smells though come at the evening mixing smoke and mischievous talks to the perfumes and coquetries Pietro sells in the wore houses after work. So I imagined these aromas layer and shine in the golden light of September that ripens Soave grapes to render a special man, his courage and passion for beauty as basic </i>values now distilled in fundamental."</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;">Description by + Q Perfume Blog: waxy-leathery, bubbly , relaxing chic!</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 16px;">Market price/store: USD145 at Luckyscent.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">RUBINI Fundamental</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Photo credit: RUBINI</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In a blogger's life sometimes you face difficult situations. Once you are very active in the perfume community you start building relationships and sometimes long lasting friendships with perfumers and brand owners. Truth is that every time I am sent a fragrance to review, or simply as a gift, there is a moment of breathless fear when I open the envelop or box. What if...? What if I will find the fragrance a total fiasco and the person sending is a friend of mine? Yes, there is always that moment of pure fear and suspense. Sometimes followed by a huge smile; sometimes followed by a profound sadness and worry. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">When my dearest friend and confidant and </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">blogger <a href="https://www.blogger.com/goog_1049533740">(</a></span><a href="http://lagardenianellocchiello.blogspot.it/)">http://lagardenianellocchiello.blogspot.it/)</a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Ermano Picco </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> said he had been developing a fragrance together with Cristiano Canali for an Italian brand and that he wanted my address to send me samples, my heart simply stopped! Anxiety installed at maximum grade, I waited impatiently for those samples to arrive. I remember like it was yesterday the day the samples finally arrived. I opened the envelope and said to myself "you don't have to worry, after all Ermano has a magnificent nose and taste. He would never be involved in a fiasco!". I was right. Rubini's fundamental is simply A-M-A-Z-I-N-G!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">If you loved <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2012/12/volutes-collection-by-diptyque-best-of.html">Voluté EDT and EDP by Diptyque</a> or <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2013/03/eau-absolue-edp-by-mona-di-orio.html">Absolue EDP by Mona di Orio</a> you will certainly love fundamental. They kinda have the same "aura".</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">It is no secret to me that Ermano loves irises Fiorentine and a beautiful solar Hisperidic note, after all he is 100% Italian and so it is the brand. The surprise really came for the fact that the perfume is around a grape note. Researching I got enough info to understand the idea:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>"The
Soave Blend refers to the combination of Garganega and Trebbiano di
Soave (or Verdicchio) that make up Soave DOC wines, arguably one of Italy's
most famous white wines. This crisp and fruity white wine, made mostly in the
Venetian hills near Verona, is now enjoyed around the world, offering a simple
and refreshing wine experience.<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>Garganega
forms the bulk of Soave wines. In dry whites it provides structure, with its
steely mineral character and fruit components of citrus, peach and apricot, and
in sweet Recioto di Soave wines, it adds richer tropical fruits and honey
notes. The Soave DOC laws stipulate that at least 70 percent of the blend must
be Garganega..." (edited from wine searcher.com)</i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The grape note enhanced the irises' minerality. Beewax amplified the honeyed facet of the grape. Crispy and fruity, chic and elegant, the fragrance opens with a luminous hisperidic bouquet that later will develop into a more masculine experience.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The sensual masculine base took me to a trip to the Italian wineries holding hands with an Italian man whose casual elegance is the perfect mix of classic chic and effortless whimsy. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Rubini Fundamental express style and grace, with a studied carelessness and a hidden sophisticated attention to details, that is the very essence of the Italian way of doing all things. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Bravo Ermano!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Many thanks to you, Canali and Rubini for bringing a modern breath to classic Italian style!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Baci mille!</span></div>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-73344380312542848112015-08-02T07:07:00.001-07:002015-08-02T07:15:52.716-07:00NICHE PERFUMERY LECTURE/ CURSO DE PERFUMARIA DE NICHO<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The lounge minutes before starting</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This blogger has a long term relationship with CDCP - A center for diffusion of perfume knowledge in São Paulo, Brazil. Through this partnership I have been invited to be one of the jurors of the perfume award Atualidade Cosmética and I have been making brainstorming sessions with fragrance houses and marketing strategy projects.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This year they invited me to give a lecture on Niche Perfumery as part of the studies of perfume in a year round course they offer to professionals of the industry of perfumery and cosmetics.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">It was a 3 hours lecture where I told them the history of Niche Perfumery; the concept of niche; the classifications of niche brands an niche perfumery as it is today and its future. We explored many brands and many different concepts in a whiff & think session.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">It was very interesting to share ideas with marketing managers and perfumers and how professionals of the cosmetic industry and packing developers could use some of the ideas of niche perfumery in their businesses.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The brands presented were:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span lang="PT-BR">Annick
Goutal, Jo Malone, Antonio Alessandria, Heeley, Yosh, Mona di Orio, Keiko
Mecheri, Olivier Durbano, Maison Kurkdjian, Jovoy Paris, Victoria Minya,
Editions de Parfums Frederique Malle, </span><span class="Apple-style-span">État Libre d’Orange, CB I Hate Perfume, S-Perfume,
Blood Concept, A Lab on Fire, Juliette Has a Gun, Nasomatto, </span><span lang="PT-BR">Histoires de Parfum, </span><span lang="PT-BR">biehl
parfumkunstwerke, Fueguia 1833, Olfactive Studio, </span>Clive Christian, Creed,
Xerjoff, Puredistance, Ormonde Jayne, <span class="Apple-style-span">Rancé , Creed,
Penhaligons’, Fragonard, Maitre Parfumeur e Gantier, Lubin, Santa Maria Novella, Farmacia SS. Annunziata dal 156, Les Parfums de Rosine, </span>Le Labo, Byredo, Ego
Facto, Bond Nº9, <span class="Apple-style-span">Mandy Aftel, Rich Hippie, Pacifica, Tsi-La, Rebel Intuitive Perfumerie,
Strange Invisible Perfumes, Honoré des Prés, </span><span class="Apple-style-span">Neela Vermiere Creation, Kerosene, The Vagabond Prince, Aus Liebe zum
Duft, </span><span class="Apple-style-span">Aedes de Venustas, Min NY, Comme de Garçons, Aesop, Costes, Ladurée, </span><span class="Apple-style-span">Les exclusifs, Van Cleef & Arpels Colection Extraordinaire, Tom Ford
Private Blend, Estée Lauder Private Collection, Cartier Lês Heures de Parfum,
Dior La Collection Privée.</span></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Shops mentioned: </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<!--StartFragment--><span lang="PT-BR" style="font-size: 12pt;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Aedes de Venustas, Min NY, Campomarzio 70, Nose, Crème de La Crème,
Hip-Nose; and websites luckyscent and Aus Liebe zum Duft.</span></span></div>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-2387131336205717602015-07-17T11:03:00.002-07:002023-08-27T00:26:32.124-07:00LE PETIT GARÇON EDP - MY VERY OWN BLEND <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioBByO2k7ga9003LP4P_woglt22vI5ZuGpK4zWVF5fZ8VuGuTm8ZKN7I4Iy9trJPFpst9h2euzmuxh5AUqj0hRfcGT5JNefJ8TYZ-NuCCWarMAfhIYLEAo0ZfyfS2uDmNj9Sfhm1vdHgeH/s1600/LPH.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioBByO2k7ga9003LP4P_woglt22vI5ZuGpK4zWVF5fZ8VuGuTm8ZKN7I4Iy9trJPFpst9h2euzmuxh5AUqj0hRfcGT5JNefJ8TYZ-NuCCWarMAfhIYLEAo0ZfyfS2uDmNj9Sfhm1vdHgeH/s400/LPH.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: large;">LE PETIT GARÇON EDP</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Launch: 2015 – </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Customized Edition</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Perfumer: </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Ane Walsh</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Olfactive Director: </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Simone
Shitrit</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif" style="color: #ffe599;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">THE COMPOSITION</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">Olfactive Notes of: </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599;">Cedrat, white grapefruit, mimosa, genet, tagetes, osmanthus, roman chamomile, calendula, fabriana imbricata (pichi), adesnemia boroinoide (paramela), honey & pollen tincture, ambergris, musk algazal.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif" style="color: #ffe599;"></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif" style="color: #ffe599;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">Olfactive description: </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599;">Yellow-ish radiant, sweet, waxy-honeyed, slightly fruity, hay-ish and herbaceous, with a balsamic, warm leathery, animalic - mineral undertone. Unique, sensual and slightly inebriating.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif" style="color: #ffe599;">INSPIRATIONS</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">Continuing to work on discrepancies in
perfumery, this time I wanted to work the concept of <span style="text-transform: uppercase;">incongruity</span>, in such a way that we would not have either
contrast nor opposition. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f6b26b;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; text-transform: uppercase;">“To me, you
are still nothing more than a little boy who is just like a hundred thousand
other little boys... But if you tame me, then we shall need each other. To me,
you will be unique in all the world. To you, I shall be unique in all the
world...” </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (1900-1944)</span></span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; text-transform: uppercase;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">The Little Prince character represents the open-mindedness of children, as
the prince is an explorer who restlessly asks questions and is willing to
engage the invisible secret mysteries of the universe. </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">The beauty of Saint-Exupéry's poetic writing goes
into such details that in the original French version of the book
he has never used the word <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">adult</b>.
Instead, he calls adults "<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">les grandes
personnes" </i>(the big people). What he meant with that was to say that what matters is the attitude of a person and not his actual age. In that sense children
can act like "<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">grandes personnes"</i> and
adults can also see the word as little children. </span></span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Which brought me to an
intriguing question that has been challenging me for a while:</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599;">Do we all have a little
prince (child) inside of us?</span></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">C</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">ontinuing to explore psyche as
inspiration </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">the brief that I shared with perfumer Ane Walsh was the</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"> thought of creating a fragrance that would evoke this child that
we have inside of us and what it means to have one when you have already grown. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">Having an inner child
means that you are constantly questioning and opened minded without limiting
your perspectives. You are aware of and sensitive to the mysteries and beauty
of the world.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">But what happens when
you let your inner child run your life?<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">“…The inner child
comprises and potentiates these positive qualities. But it also holds our
accumulated childhood </span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">hurts, traumas</span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">, fears and angers.
"Grown-ups" are convinced they have successfully outgrown,
jettisoned, and left this child and its emotional baggage long behind. But this
is far from the truth. In fact, these so-called grown-ups or <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">adults are unwittingly being constantly
influenced or covertly controlled by this unconscious inner child</b>. For
many, it is not an adult self-directing their lives, but rather an emotionally
wounded inner child inhabiting an adult body - A five-year-old running around
in a fifty-year-old frame. It is a hurt, angry, f</span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; text-decoration: none;">earful</span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"> little boy or girl calling the
shots, making adult decisions. A boy or girl being sent out into the world to
do a man's or woman's job… And then we wonder why our relationships fall apart.
Why we feel so anxious. Afraid. Insecure. Inferior. Small. Lost. Lonely. But
think about it: How else would any child feel having to fend for themselves in
an apparently adult world?" </span></i><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">(Stephen Diamond,
PH. D., edited)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">In a nutshell: i</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">f the little child does not have an adult making the rules of the
game there will be a lot of suffering. I asked the perfumer to stay away of tantrums! S</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">uffering was not the aspect I wanted to explore
because I wanted to come up with something that I would like to wear; that
brings out beauty, not pain. For that matter I had to detail the brief in a more personal level and explain to her that it all came from the fact that a friend of mine once called me little prince and that I also have a little friend that needs my constant attention and that the fragrance had to be about him...and me:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffd966; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">MY IMAGINARY FRIEND</span></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Garçon is a little boy born in the
northwest part of France called La Bretagne (French Brittany), part of the six
Celtic nations. In the Celtic language his name means warrior.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">To bring the aura of Britanny I asked Ane Walsh to compose a bouquet with mimosas and genet.</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"> Mimosas brought a soft, delicate, sweet, powdery floral note with a suave green honeyed undertone, while genet added a hay-honey-like scent with a tenacious herbal tone. To add a marine sensation of a coast line ambergris was added. </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffd966; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">MIMOSAS</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffd966; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Following the thoughts of the little prince's friend the fox, in the excerpt of the book cited above, Hervé </span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">is not just like a hundred thousand other little boys. He </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">is a unique little warrior who has tamed
me. </span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599;">He is my inner child, my imaginary friend. </span></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">The inner child embodies innocence and openness; love and
joy; creativity and curiosity; wonder and awe; appreciation and devotion;
beauty and playfulness; forgiveness and unity; determination and strength;
gentleness and enthusiasm.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">Hervé has all that. He inspires me to create; he challenges
my curiosity; he is the fine-tuning of my appreciation and determination; he
brings unity to my thoughts. Garçon is the little child in me and he is
responsible for what wonders and awes me and t</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">his is exactly what I wanted the be the core of this perfume.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">In that line of thought the fragrance had to be about The Little Prince’s idea of grandes
personnes and what Hervé represents to me. The name</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599;"> LE PETIT GARÇON EDP</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"> was my idea of a
merger of both.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">The funny thing is that this composition not only had to have a scented composition of La Bretagne, but it also had to have the golden locks of the little prince and myself (I also have them!). Garçon, my imaginary friend, has red hair and freckles. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB5n_RQLnhFm166Lo2Ga0wRxMOihg-a0IIu3kpd6D-4Amknajy5_67VAjr62-KpWhMj-c_kiWPkuGUNk_a0IDS8zcBLg7N8q087WuaDZjuGvTShW7U4ZBRBLNdhlGcUg9NfiWJvmsYJ1XE/s1600/flowers.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB5n_RQLnhFm166Lo2Ga0wRxMOihg-a0IIu3kpd6D-4Amknajy5_67VAjr62-KpWhMj-c_kiWPkuGUNk_a0IDS8zcBLg7N8q087WuaDZjuGvTShW7U4ZBRBLNdhlGcUg9NfiWJvmsYJ1XE/s320/flowers.jpg" width="318" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffd966;">TAGETES, CAMOMILE, PARAMELAS, CALENDULAS </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Calendulas were added to compose an orange yellow-ish bouquet, adding a warm creamy texture (like redheads' skin) with an herbal undertone.</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"> Tagetes (marigolds) and a</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"> bright crisp, sweet-herbal balsamic chamomile with its apple notes </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">brought the essence of little children and a fruity sprinkle. Honey and pollen tincture were not only the final golden touch but they added a spring-y solar aura to the fragrance.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span style="color: #f6b26b; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">“WONDER IS THE FIRST OF ALL PASSIONS”<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f6b26b;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">René Decartes</span><span style="font-family: Helvetica;"> (</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">1596–1650)</span></span><span style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">“Passion may be a friendly or eager interest in or admiration for a proposal, cause, discovery, or activity or love – to a feeling of unusual excitement, enthusiasm or compelling emotion, a positive affinity or love, towards a subject. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">The origin of the word passion is found in the Latin word "passio" which means suffering. On the surface, the word “passion” can stir emotions in us inspiring, motivating and elevating us to live life at a more exciting fulfilling level. But just as the core of an apple cannot be separate from the apple itself, “suffering” is always at the core of passion. We cannot have one without the other. In that sense could Hervé inspire passion without making me suffer? </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Both Garçon and myself are solar souls. So I wanted this aura for
the very first whiff. I also wanted the notion of freshness because </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">both children and passions have in its core the freshness of a new adventure, the excitement for life.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"> Cedrat
and white grapefruit were added to give this freshness that only citrusy notes
can give, but also to balance the sweetness of the fragrance with a zesty varnish. Paramela
notes were also added to bring a sensation of well being and fluidity.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLUbSzsNoq7na4w9boSZOT1Rdif60otaDZXRWkU3sabzybM1K_H-I9-bXdeP2rB87X4ve2aYfAkvs8Xi3UyZDKLwMZQAoS-3c0h7D5Ay-5mp9lGZwSOfrzSWdO1WsNSFqU7sNiNuI13krT/s1600/Screen+shot+2015-06-13+at+5.07.50+PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLUbSzsNoq7na4w9boSZOT1Rdif60otaDZXRWkU3sabzybM1K_H-I9-bXdeP2rB87X4ve2aYfAkvs8Xi3UyZDKLwMZQAoS-3c0h7D5Ay-5mp9lGZwSOfrzSWdO1WsNSFqU7sNiNuI13krT/s400/Screen+shot+2015-06-13+at+5.07.50+PM.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffd966; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">LA BRETAGNE</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">So far the idea
was a solar fresh orange yellow-ish Breton composition which brought me back to
the question of incongruity (the proposal mentioned at the beginning of this post) and other questions that came along: </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599;">is it possible to create a fragrance that is slightly
carnal and yet, take you to a spring/summer trip to the blooming coasts and
still make sense? And if we can't have passion without suffering how can I leave pain out of the brief?</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">The term passion is particularly used in the context of romance or sexual desire though it generally implies a deeper or more encompassing emotion<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">. </span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">For that matter the perfume had to contain both wonder and awe, but in a different tone - the tone of passion. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Ane Walsh surprised me by adding Fabriana Imbricata, a note that is said to have inebriating effects when inhaled. By the way, I learned that Paramela smell is also very attractive. Both notes combined with ambergris and musk algazal ended up developing a rather disturbing stimuli. Something that it is kinda difficult to explain. P</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">rovocative and instigating. Sensuality with a fleshy-warm-sweet kinky touch
was added, bringing the sensation of touching skin, of instinctive sex, of something rather
chemical (chemistry of attraction). </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Osmanthus came to compose the flowery bouquet with a sweet, warm, rich, honeyed leathery note and an elegant animalic undertone. Fact is that smelling this perfume on my skin makes me blush.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><br />So, answering my very own
question, as incongruent as it seemed, passion, desire, wonder, awe, the coast of La Bretagne and my
imaginary friend were brought altogether to compose one fragrance. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599;">LE PETIT GARÇON EDP</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"> ended up being artistically conceived and unpredictable exuberant as passions are. </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif" style="color: #f4cccc;">Cole Porter was an all-time talented composer and song writer. In 1936 he composed </span><span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif" style="color: #f4cccc;">a song about the</span><span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif" style="color: #f4cccc;"> incongruity of passions</span><span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif" style="color: #ffe599;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"><span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif">and i</span><span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif">n </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif" style="color: #f4cccc;">1946 Frank Sinatra brought a beautiful romantic tone to the lyrics. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">Wearing </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffe599;">LE PETIT GARÇON EDP </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">puts a huge smile on my face and it</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif" style="color: #f4cccc;"> feels as silky as Sinatra's version of<i> I've got you under my skin</i>. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif" style="color: #f4cccc;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif" style="color: #f4cccc;">It makes me travel to La Bretagne. It fells like lying on the warm sand. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif" style="color: #f4cccc;">It brings me closer to my inner imaginary friend Hervé.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 17px; line-height: 30px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" face="'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif" style="color: #ffd966;">I've got you under my skin<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />I've got you deep in the heart of me<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />So deep in my heart that you're really a part of me<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />I've got you under my skin<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />I've tried so not to give in<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />I've said to myself this affair never will go so well<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />But why should I try to resist, when baby I know so well<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />I've got you under my skin<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />I'd sacrifice anything come what might<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />For the sake of having you near<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />In spite of a warning voice that comes in the night<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />And repeats, repeats in my ear<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />Don't you know little fool, you never can win<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />Use your mentality, wake up to reality<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />But each time I do, just the thought of you<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />Makes me stop before I begin<br style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" />'Cause I've got you under my skin</span></span><br />
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<!--EndFragment--><div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-91205391784417999882015-05-15T18:53:00.001-07:002015-08-16T08:31:26.016-07:00BLACK HIMALAY EDP - MY VERY OWN BLEND <div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">When you take your passion for fragrances to the next level (remember the stages of a perfumista?) and develop your very own blend it is a road of no U-turns. The desire of creating more and more perfumes is in your heart already.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Last ye</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">ar I started to develop a 3rd fragrance of my own, also with Brazilian Natural Perfumer Ane Walsh. For this project the</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> idea was to explore a theme that I find extraordinary which is the game of light and darkness (some perfumers call it chiaroscuro). By definition chiaroscuro in Italian means <i>chiaro</i> = clear, light + <i>oscuro</i> = dark, obscure. In art it means the arrangement or treatment of light and dark parts in a pictorial work of art. In perfumery it is a combination of olfactive notes that bring the notion of light and freshness with contrasting notes that bring the opposite idea. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Chiaroscuro also means the interplay or contrast of dissimilar qualities, as a mood or character, that </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Jungians call it The Shadow. That was the concept that I wanted to explore.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The shadow is the dark side of our personality. It is an unconscious aspect of the personality which the Ego (conscious) does not identify in itself. It was seen by Freud as mostly negative (primordial part inheritance of humanity, such as repressed violence and sexuality) ; while for Jungians a shadow can include everything that is outside the light of consciousness. Instinctive and irrational, shadow is </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">also </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">a source of creativity that </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">appears in our dreams and visions bringing sometimes conflicted desires or intentions.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 22px;"><i>"...Jung also made the suggestion of there being more than one layer making up the shadow. The top layers contain the meaningful flow and manifestations of direct personal experiences. These are made unconscious in the individual by such things as the change of attention from one thing to another, simple forgetfulness, or a repression. Underneath these idiosyncratic layers, however, are the archetypes which form the psychic contents of all human experiences. Jung described this deeper layer as "a psychic activity which goes on independently of the conscious mind and is not dependent even on the upper layers of the unconscious—untouched, and perhaps untouchable—by personal experience" (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joseph_Campbell" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: initial; background-image: none; background-origin: initial; text-decoration: none;" title="Joseph Campbell">Campbell</a>, 1971). This bottom layer of the shadow is also what Jung referred to as the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collective_unconscious" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: initial; background-image: none; background-origin: initial; text-decoration: none;" title="Collective unconscious">collective unconscious</a>..." extracted from WIKIPEDIA.</i></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 22px;">Jung defined SHADOW as everything we do not know about ourselves, both dark and light. However, we get glimpses of these unknown shadow parts of ourselves when we project our shadow into the world or onto another. We can come to know and embrace our shadow through dreams, projections and by paying attention to the opposites that we attract or reject. </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 22px;">The idea was to embrace the shadow by transforming it into a fragrance.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Chiaroscuro and the dark side of personalities have been greatly explored by motion pictures. Conflicted anti-heroes with morally ambiguous identities shot in constant opposition of areas of light and dark best describes the film noir</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> gender and a theme that I wished to explore in perfumery for quite a long time.</span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In terms of concept shadow and film noir were the starting point for the fragrance, but because Film Noir is too vintage, I decided to choose a neo noir movie to inspire both of us into creating a more defined concept.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Although The Black Dahlia is not my favorite Brian de Palma movie, it </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">is a modern crime noir genre of movie (neo noir) that brought a display of characters and intersecting relationships that caught my attention. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Just like every film noir, in The Black Dahlia you will see gangsters, policemen, couples developing sordid romances, a bit of drama, a bit of terror and nothing ever seems what it is. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Women in this movie are head-spinning beauties. Scarlett Johansson plays Kay Lane, a Marylyn Monroe kind of blonde who seems to be the sweet, nice and decent. She dates a handsome cop called Lee (</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">played by </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Aaron Eckhart), but wants his partner Bucky (played by even hotter Josh Harnett). She is a soft femme fatale marked by duplicity and sensuality, disguised into the house wife type. In the movie her good side is translated by her blond hair and the fact that she is always wearing soft creamy clothes, but the hidden </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">predatory Kay shows herself to</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Bucky when he comes to protect her all evenings, when she stays alone while Lee is out investigating crimes. She undresses in front of Bucky and offers her half naked body making him confused and tormented by the fact that Lee is his partner. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This game of seduction brings temptation and desire and leads Bucky to another femme fatale called Madeleine Linscott (played by stunning Hillary Swank). The character is also defined by a contrast of dissimilarities. Although coming from wealth and a notorious Hollywood family, she leads a questionable life as a bisexual who crawls into smokey bars and lesbian clubs looking for one night stands of both sexes. She is the real femme fatale in the movie. Glamorous and dangerous; seductive and repulsing she uses the vulnerable afflicted Bucky so her name won't be linked with the murder of The black Dahlia - whom she had slept with because she thought they looked very alike (Madeleine was in a sort of egotrip). </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">While Kay wears soft creamy fabrics, madeleine wears black with glam...</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Than we have The Black Dahlia character (played by Mia Kirshner)... Once coming from a rather wealthy and respectful family, was arrested for underage drinking and became an actress of pornographic lesbian movies and the lover of many men. The beautiful young woman from Boston ended up brutally murderered in the case that became one of the most famous criminal cases : The Black Daliah Murder.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">THE BALCK DAHLIA</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">JEANNE MOREAU</span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Brief</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">My idea was to take both Kay and Madeleine personas to represent the light and dark facets of the fragrance. Go deeper into shadow with The Black Dahlia. 03 femme fatales in one fragrance. 05 dubious personalities (both Lee and Buck are also questionable) in one perfume!</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I also wanted to explore meditation. Through meditation and the awakening of the third eye one can reach wholeness and accept that we all have a dark side. SHADOW and LIGHT become ONE.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Ane Walsh went nuts with the fact that I wanted to explore a neo-noir film and meditation and Jung's shadow; all in one fragrance. It was a challenging puzzle of many pieces to be brought all together in a composition that would be feminine, seductive and wearable. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">To help her set the mood, she watched the movie and I gave here a strange instruction: when mixing raw materials you have to listen to Miles Davis. Not any Miles Davis CD. The soundtrack of a 1958 French Film Noir - <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elevator_to_the_Gallows">Ascenceur pour L'Échadfaud</a> (Elevator to the Gallows in English). </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Ane also watched the documentary about the murder of Elizabeth Short (The Black Dahlia) and she extracted her joy and sadness; her mysterious life and </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">her fragility.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The explanation is simple: Ascenteur pour L'Échadfaud is a French film noir bringing the story of criminal lovers that bought to movies a new way to look at a woman and also a unique and new solution of matching music and sound. Black Himalay also had to have a unique match of a smokey jazzy beat with champaca notes.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Now the mood of the fragrance was defined: Sensual, mysterious, feminine, slightly vintage, smokey, smooth, soft, head-spinning, ambiguous, chiaroscuro, neo-noir and jazzy.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I created the name of the fragrance that would reflect in 2 words the concept we were to explore - BLACK HIMALAY EDP.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">CHAMPACA FLOWER</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">If La Signora and Ofir were all about irises, Black Himalay had to be about the second raw material I love the most: Champaca.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I have always dreamed of having my very own blend of champaca fragrance. A creamy warm floral note with tea like facets and apricot undertones. Rich, luxurious, ultra sensual aroma with a floral-fruit note of magnolia.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">(</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2014/08/my-very-own-custom-blend-by-ane-walsh.html">LA SIGNORA EDP</a> and <a href="http://www.maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2014/08/my-very-own-masculine-blend-by-ane-walsh.html">OFIR EDP</a> are my first very own blends)</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Although I wanted the smokey atmosphere of Film Noires, I am not fond of incense notes, which are usually related to that effect...what to do?</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I always loved <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2009/01/ormonde-jayne-champaca-india-and.html">Champaca by Ormonde Jayne</a> and the way she combined green notes of bamboo and green tea. Tea echoed in my mind. I also recalled that Annick Ménardo had used black tea to give <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2010/03/black-bvlgari-review.html">Black Bulgari</a> its smokey-rubery personality with a very contemporary urban touch. That is what I wanted for my Black Himalay - a smokey touch of a city! </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I wanted a note that could also bring the notion of dark, black smokey nights, so I told Ane Walsh that I wanted the toasted smokey property of teas, that would enhance the already presented undertone tea notes of the champaca. Black tea from Syria and Earl Gray were added to play with the Choya Loban.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The base had also to have </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">darkness, but with a forest touch of oakmoss (the chypre touch that love so much!). </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Once darkness in the fragrance was settle for shadow, I needed the light to be constructed at the same time. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Nagchampa, Kenian Myrrh and Siam wood would bring an Himalayan temple - meditation effect that I wanted in the fragrance without the hippie, indie touch. Although the fragrance also brought patchouli, I specifically told Ane to take a long distance from "woodstock-y notes". </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Many perfumer's, including Linda P. have used steamed-rice and tea as complementary notes of champaca. My Creamy layers came from a combination of Siam wood, champaca, and musks.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Also for light and freshness Ane build me a </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">joyful </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">citrusy opening with bergamot and neroli. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I also wanted that over all these layers of darkness and seduction a golden vibration. A luxurious golden touch that had to be with the ambiguity of femme fatales. Femininity and allure masking less noble intentions.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Because this is a live perfume, somedays I feel it dark green and shadow-y; sometimes I feel it fresh, uplifting and slightly soapy. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">There are days that tea notes are enhanced; there are days that neroli notes are.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I think it depends on my conscience and sub-conscience: If I projecting shadow or not.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The bouquet was composed with a bed of champaca leafs, champaca flowers, gardenias and a bubblegum magnolias.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Clean and clear; dark and dirty, ethereal and doomed, the fragrance contains a breath of the Himalayas, a golden glamour, a </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">mysterious aura of the femme fatale persona of film noires, and most of all </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">THE SHADOW.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Notes composing the perfume:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Black tea from Syria, Earl Gray tincture, Italian bergamot & neroli, lime, *nardostachys jatamansi, c</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">hampaca, magnolia and gardenia bouquet, white champa leaves, nagchampa, patchouli, ambrette, muskambrette, black and white musks, oakmoss, Siam wood, *Choya Loban, Kenian myrrh.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">* Nardostachys Jatamansi is a flowering plant from the honeysuckle family that grows in the eastern Himalayas. Nard Oil or muskroot oil with sedative properties </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">* Choya Loban is a destructive distillation of Boswellia serrata/Indian frankincense. It is slightly smokey, sweet resinous with a balsamic-woody undertone. In Natural perfumery is usually used for Russian leather perfumes, forest bases, fougeres, men's colognes, leather accords, chypre, incense notes and temple perfumes.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Frankly I knew that Ane Walsh is a great perfumer and that she understands the way my mind works, but she pulled this one out in such an intriguing artistic way that I can only say one word: PERFECTION.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">A PUBLIC LETTER TO THE PERFUMER</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Dear Ane Walsh,</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">you are one of the most incredible perfumers I had the pleasure to enjoy the work. You are the person who can transform my wildest dreams into such beautiful artistic creations that fills my heart with joy, admiration and most of all HOPE for niche perfumery as an expression of liquid art.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I could not find more words to express such gratitude. I am not such a good writer as you are a perfumer my dearest friend ;-)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Much love and thank you so much,</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Simone Shitrit</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The fragrance is dedicated to HF who is definitely my shadow.</span></div>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-10927266570360095892015-04-12T13:42:00.000-07:002015-04-12T13:59:57.162-07:00NUIT NOIRE EDP BY MONA DI ORIO<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>"It takes two to tango"</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Mona di Orio loved to explore light and darkness while creating her beautiful perfumes. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">This is exactly what happened to her brand. It faced dark moments with her passing away in 2011 leaving Jeroen heartbroken and with a challenge in his hands: how to perpetuate a brand that no longer has its perfumer. But j</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">ust like Mona wanted, the light was still there: JEROEN OUDE SOGTOEN.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I get frustrated sometimes when I find only articles mentioning his loss and how the brand is fighting to stay alive. Yes she was the perfumer. Indeed important. But not less important is the work that Jeroen has been doing as the creative director of the brand since its launch in 2004.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">A creative director is a vital person in a project of fragrance development. As the name says itself, it is the person who gives direction to where the project is going to go. In case of fragrances, creative directors (as myself - yes, I am creating fragrances) will be the starting point of the fragrance. They will bring an idea, a story to be told. They will set the mood, the tone, the personality and the path where they want to explore that idea. Many or most of them even choose the ingredients, or at least the main ingredients to transform the idea into a scent. Creative director and perfumer will work alined to bring together their own talents, backgrounds, taste and passion and when that happens, beauty is created!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">A creative director doesn't have to know what ingredients to combine to make a rose smell real, but they are the ones choosing if it will be a rock n' roll rose or a classic one.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Jeroen was leading Mona since the beginning and that is the reason why the brand can continue to amaze us with scented beauties. Proof to that is that both </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">beautiful fragrances</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2013/03/eau-absolue-edp-by-mona-di-orio.html">EAU ABSOLUE EDP</a> and <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2013/09/violette-fumee-edp-by-mona-di-orio_22.html">VIOLETTE FUMÉE EDP</a> were </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">launched after Mona had passed away. The second was entirely created for Jeroen (it was his signature scent) and it was about what he loves, his memories, his tastes and after her death he decided to share with her fans. IMO, the most beautiful of the brand.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">At that time I wrote <i>"</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>Their affinity, their connection, their perceptions are forever in his heart, but he misses her everyday, and IMO sharing the ONLY fragrance that she made especially for him and that till this day he was wearing only in special occasions is his way of coping with this great personal loss. Sharing HIS personal fragrance means that he want all of us to have a bit of their friendship; he wants to form a different, but somehow a bond with all of us".</i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Photo credit: MONA DI ORIO</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">So we are now in 2015</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">and truth is, IMO,</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Jeroen is not fighting to keep the brand alive, he is simply continuing to lead the brand. Some people mentioned <i>"he is somehow moving forward" - </i>That makes no justice whatsoever to all the work he has been doing in the brand since 2004. It is not somehow. It is with the same passion, hard work, research, sense of style, sense of luxury, sense of fashion and an amazing feeling for business that he always had! </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">You can already see magnificent changes in the design of the website and the fragrance bottles. Elegance is something that they both had and is now explored even in a more refined way.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">He is bringing back perfumes that were discontinued - LUX EDP and NUIT NOIRE EDP and adding a new collection called monogram with one scent so far called MYRRH CASATI EDP bringing perfumer Melanie Leroux. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">All fragrances are presented in the beautiful new round perfume bottle concept for the 10th anniversary of the brand.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I am going to start with NUIT NOIRE EDP. The perfume although kept in a revamped flacon it is coming in its original formula. To those saying otherwise Jeroen already explained that freshness is the only difference from perfumes mixed 5 years ago. Aside from that it is indeed the original formula. It belongs to the signature collection which brings scents that are really expressing Mona's passion for art and chiaroscuro, therefore they come in the black bottle.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">NUIT NOIRE EDP by MONA DI ORIO</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Perfumer: Mona di Orio</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Relaunch: 2015</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Gender: I would say it is more suitable for the feminine gender</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Olfactive notes: Orange flower, cardamom, ginger, orange, frankincense, cinnamon, tuberose, sandalwood, cloves, cedarwood, amber, leather, musk, tonka.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Brand description: <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"><i>Nuit
Noire elicits the steaming sensuality of a dark, sultry night in North Africa,
exotic, spicy, and animalic. A strikingly carnal affair, the raw energy and
heat at the start rises from floral notes colliding with woods, spices and
leather, but as it is with lovers, this sophisticated floriental dries down
richly intimate into a velvety seduction of spices.</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"><i>The
honeyed floral sweetness of orange blossom, intense tuberose, and robust, spicy
cardamom seduce each other and tease for dominance. The indolic quality of the
orange blossom and tuberose pulses with a ripe lushness. Brighter notes of
ginger and oranges arrive on the hot wind of this vibrant souk and bring with
it an intense accord of incense, spices and woods from frankincense, cinnamon,
cloves and cedar and sandalwood. </i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"><i>Notes of animalistic musk, comforting leather, vanilla-sweet
tonka and warm resinous amber develop into a creamy, velvet intoxication. This
primal nocturnal journey becomes darker and spicier.</i></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">The very first time I felt it on my skin I recall thinking "It smells naughty"! </span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">Truth is that naughty is never obvious. It requires skills.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">Yes, NUIT NOIRE EDP is slightly indecent and far way misbehaving with carnal floriental notes, but it is not a mundane perfume. It also contains a virginal girlie powdery side wrapped with vibrant ginger orang-y bow. </span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">Somehow lust is not explicit, it comes also hidden in layers of gourmandise. Like a couple on a dance floor orange flower, cardamom, ginger, orange, cinnamon, cloves and the vanilla-sweet tonka are a mouth watering combination that take turns into velvety creamy naughty notes of musk, amber, leather, tuberose and sandalwood. </span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">It is a seductive dance of light and darkness; feminine youth and male lust.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">I could not find anything more enlightening than a scene of Scent of a Woman with Al Pacino and Gabrielle Anwar dancing <i>Por Una Cabeza by Carlos Gardel, </i>when grumpy and blind Lieutenant Colonel Frank Slader leads beautiful, young Donna to the dance floor teaching her how to dance one of the most sexiest dances of all times: the Tango. Delicate flawless enlaced by roughness in one magical, sensitive and beautiful moment.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/F2zTd_YwTvo" width="560"></iframe>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">Also, if I had to put NUIT NOIRE EDP in one word, nobody better than Slader to define the fragrance:</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Sample provided by Mona di Orio brand as usual (Jeroen and Henrike).</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">To order a 75ml/2.5 FL OZ fragrance go to <a href="http://monadiorio.com/shop/signature/nuit-noire">MONA DI ORIO</a>.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Click to find a <a href="http://monadiorio.com/retailers">RETAILER</a> near you.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-5329143289059836762015-03-16T06:21:00.000-07:002015-03-16T06:21:15.267-07:00EAU DE HONGRIE EDP by VIKTORIA MINYA<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Photo credit: Viktoria Minya</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Olfactive notes: grapefruit, lemon, clove, jasmine, honey, sandalwood, immortelle, labdanum, musk, tonka, Tokaji Aszú wine.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In 2013 Viktoria Minya was presented here by <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2013/07/hedonist-edp-by-viktoria-minya.html">Hedonist</a> in a journey to Paris and to the 18th Century French Novel Les Liasons Dangereuses by P.C. de Laclos. It was composed by an illuminated peachy nectar that was luxurious and lustful at the same time.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">One year later she is presenting again another nectar, but this time it is a honeyed fragrance with Hungarian sweetest dessert wine Tokaji Aszú notes. The syrupy berries were infused with honey and immortelle to present a golden allure.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">According to Viktoria, Eau de Hongrie EDP is a revisited version of the famous Eau de La Reine de Hongrie created in the 14th century. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Eau de Hongrie as it is well known was the first alcohol-based perfume with rosemary and brandy, lavender, mint, sage, marjoram, costos, orange blossom and lemon.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="http://viktoriaminya.com/en/product/">Eau de Hongrie EDP</a> like all honey nectar perfumes is very cheering, very spring-y, waxy-syrupy with a refreshing naivité. A gourmand flowery scent that puts a huge smile on the face. It is rich, without being sticky. It is naive without being childish.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Truth is that wearing this perfume I feel like dancing. I feel a little bit gypsy!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Other</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2011/09/beautiful-nectars.html">beautiful nectars</a></span><br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-5361835299296101782015-03-15T14:12:00.000-07:002015-03-15T14:24:35.212-07:00WHITE PERFUME EXTRAIT BY PUREDISTANCE<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVYiiV8n2C5EQ0ksSC0OCzAzxfZcLt2SLcqazsF9S_7X8v6gBCBWEgK_nvh06D-k1BRICwHZGeEmK7-u3uAaP-SJVq_ElmSld-PpfBlByGdTIWGzaaKkxDrtZBduk2v7rgdP7RxEW2_zLv/s1600/IMG_5536.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVYiiV8n2C5EQ0ksSC0OCzAzxfZcLt2SLcqazsF9S_7X8v6gBCBWEgK_nvh06D-k1BRICwHZGeEmK7-u3uAaP-SJVq_ElmSld-PpfBlByGdTIWGzaaKkxDrtZBduk2v7rgdP7RxEW2_zLv/s1600/IMG_5536.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Photo Credit:+ Q PERFUME BLOG</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I haven't been quite active in my blog not only due to lack of time, but also because I haven't been presented to fragrances that I find worth writing about.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Since <a href="http://www.maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2015/01/niche-enniched.html">my last article about niche</a> I have been feeling really disappointed with perfumery in general. Too many dull creations, too many blogs writing about them...too much of everything.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Last week I had a huge surprise when finally my newest PUREDISTANCE creation arrived.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The brand presents a dream in white & gold; a flow of happiness. An intimate escape from harsh reality. And that is exactly what it is. The harsh reality of 1000s of niche fragrances one copying another, one using more OUD than the other and finally an ESCAPE. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I am happy to see that among so much olfactive stupidity someone finally presents something that it is worth buying. (I know many perfumers are hating me right now or shouting who she thinks she is...but that is the freedom of speech that millions are fighting for these days. In my blog, I say what I feel. Simple as that!*)</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">How beautifully crafted <a href="http://www.puredistance.com/product-info/white/">WHITE</a> is. JAN you excelled yourself with this one!!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">No wonder it is another Antoine Lie creation. He has also composed <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2013/10/black-code-in-fragrances-black-by.html">BLACK</a> for the brand, which is a very sensual perfume. White is <i>a</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i> mood transforming perfume</i> that makes you fall in love.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamFH_mFX-UleX19Q-vQyE_pfBP2jdWxyz7P_7S-ekvBWCvnOtrighAWdU9m_z9ysgJu5MwuqQOqhlYNw8GBiWDd_2RcrQF1rhdsg8YRVzYa9ii1l26b369rusuejQGDX2N9thT_fsDQWT/s1600/Puredistance-2015-02.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhamFH_mFX-UleX19Q-vQyE_pfBP2jdWxyz7P_7S-ekvBWCvnOtrighAWdU9m_z9ysgJu5MwuqQOqhlYNw8GBiWDd_2RcrQF1rhdsg8YRVzYa9ii1l26b369rusuejQGDX2N9thT_fsDQWT/s1600/Puredistance-2015-02.jpeg" height="219" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Photo credit: PUREDISTANCE website</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Following the trend of looking for local exclusive ingredients and their uniqueness PUREDISTANCE is presenting the following composition of Olfactive notes: Rose de Mai (France), Orris (Italy), Patchouli (Indonesia), Bergamot (Italy), Vetyver (Haiti), Tonka beans (Venezuela), Sandalwood (Mysore) and musk. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Concentration: 38% perfume oil</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.puredistance.com/product-info/white/">WHITE PERFUME EXTRAIT</a> is a complementary fragrance to BLACK IMO. The sensuality continues to flow in a subtle, gentle and smooth provoking way.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">At the very first whiff you understand what the brand is about. Happiness is a smile that does not show gum. It has style.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">PUREDISTANCE is 100% niche because it reflects JAN E. WOS' personality: PUREDISTANCE is JAN and JAN is PUREDISTANCE. Impeccable manners with a sincere humor. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The fragrance itself has an opening that brings a whiff of greens evolving a beautiful real rose. In my last article I mentioned the smell of real roses remember...well, PUREDISTANCE would never think of using something else in its compositions.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">After a few minutes the creaminess of sandalwood will be rounded with Tonka unfolding the sensuality to the perfume shaped by a luxurious orris note. Vetyver brings a smokiness and a rare bitter chocolate undertone which is not so easy to find these days. Most vetyvers are simply earthy and dirty.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">It is a delicious gourmet perfume that reminds me of another one that provoked as much as this one: <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2010/02/be-my-valentine-fragrance-le-6-eau-de.html">Le 6 by Ida Delam</a>. While Le 6 is a pure into the panties perfume, WHITE is more of an invitation. Just as BLACK, it won't press you against a wall and penetrate you right there. It will whisper something very charming with an understated wish to penetrate you. ;-)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTPrZPfD_Mxu2gv459SEqfY_riKpWT1Kt5WZ0nnXJzTeANR-oSYvmXaIUyC7EGJtDsqamzEFi53uxVLNbBAHB7Y38xL9J5BanG2ndk6kKGo81gDjhNwveW1rUnFtx57Y6Whq8QdvEFANVe/s1600/lucian-clergue-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTPrZPfD_Mxu2gv459SEqfY_riKpWT1Kt5WZ0nnXJzTeANR-oSYvmXaIUyC7EGJtDsqamzEFi53uxVLNbBAHB7Y38xL9J5BanG2ndk6kKGo81gDjhNwveW1rUnFtx57Y6Whq8QdvEFANVe/s1600/lucian-clergue-1.jpg" height="332" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Photo credit: Lucien Clergue</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">WHITE could be easily understood as the olfactive interpretation of French photographer Lucien Clergue black and white nudes.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Truth is that WHITE is not so white...it has shades of BLACK.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">*sample was provided by the brand as many or most of the perfumes are, and yet many of them I don't review because I didn't relate to them in a positive way. I keep an objective view even being friends with some of the brand owners. I am not paid or encouraged to write articles.</span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-1657452664163309372015-03-15T11:42:00.000-07:002015-03-15T11:42:01.800-07:00THE INCREDIBLE WORLD OF CHRISTOPHER BROSIUS - PART ONE<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoiX32JAfUpeAHptgBd70F_ijajTqIycfvUtOMEemBQwsynxkfORsFhpdfcH4FNHBoTJyjRBmxguSv80pBivKM8kGUi7RsQC9CrcgHfnCGsP00twpw8WCv5R3Xa9WsogyfE4x_KEjHCL7E/s1600/IMG_2288.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoiX32JAfUpeAHptgBd70F_ijajTqIycfvUtOMEemBQwsynxkfORsFhpdfcH4FNHBoTJyjRBmxguSv80pBivKM8kGUi7RsQC9CrcgHfnCGsP00twpw8WCv5R3Xa9WsogyfE4x_KEjHCL7E/s1600/IMG_2288.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Photo Credit: + Q Perfume Blog</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Christopher Brosius is one of these amazing artists that moves you in such a way that you don't know if you get inspired by him to explore the world of scents everywhere you go, or lock yourself in his studio and proclaim eternal faith to him and to him only.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">His fragrances are not just perfumes you buy and wear. They are experiences. They are smellscapes contained in vials that he carefully designed for his clients. His clients. I have to say that his fragrances are not for everybody. A CB client needs to be as creative as he is, as curious as he is, smart as he is, and most of all needs to love Nature.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">If you don't give a special importance to your dreams, your inspirations, your way of expressing emotions and how you relate to the world around you, CB is not for you.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Expect to cry, to smile, to wonder, to be happy or even angry when smelling his vials. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I had a project to review his fragrances since I met Patrick at Elements in 2013. Patrick worked at CB I Hate Perfume in Williamsburg - Brooklyn and he was generous enough to provide me 38 samples of his collections. I haven't been in touch with him since so I don't know if he is still working for the brand. I hope he is!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Visiting the shop that year I purchased <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2013/09/coppertone-beach-party-movies-and-at.html">AT THE BEACH 1966 </a>which I have already reviewed here.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I will start with the CB Reinvention Series which is a collection of seven fragrances, which I have all the samples.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> ABOUT CB REINVENTION SERIES</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 17px;"><i>"The History of Perfume is old as Mankind itself. Over the
millennia, the quest for perfume has expanded civilizations, changed cultures
and brought the discovery of new worlds. </i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 17px;"><i>But like the study of any History, exploring the history of
perfume can only be done from our modern point of view. It must be reinvented
in order to be understood. The world changes and we change along with it. We
cannot truly comprehend how previous generations thought or felt let alone
realize just how new and provocative certain perfumes must have been when first
introduced to the world. They too must be reinvented in the light of today. </i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 17px;"><i>All the perfumes in this collection explore some aspect of the
History of Perfume. Some are recreated as closely as possible to what they may
have been. Others are unique combinations of fragrance materials both
traditional & modern – these bring “up to date” a classic
concept of traditional perfumery". </i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 17px;">(extracted from CB I HATE PERFUME website)</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #fff2cc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In #201 CB93 Christopher Brosius wanted to reinvent the Eau de Cologne.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">For this designed fragrance he used a combination of natural essential oils of Galbanum, Bourbon Geranium, Holy Basil, Siberian Fir, Scotch Pine, Moroccan Cedar, Candlewood, Sandalwood and Frankincense. </span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 17px;">Yes, it does smell natural, so if you are not into Natural Perfumery this fragrance is not for you. Slightly green, slightly flowery and slightly woody... it is a delicate smell. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #fff2cc;">#202 PATCHOULI EMPIRE</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 17px;"> </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 17px;">Also a natural perfume, CB's patchouli fragrance is a blend of 5 different patchouli sources and black pepper, with a woody base. Said to be warm, subtle and ever changing...Let's just say that it is not the best patchouli perfume among many others in the market which I have reviewed here in 2011, in an article called <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2011/09/patchouli-fragrances.html">Patchouli Fragrances</a>.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p>Tom Ford launched in 2014 his Patchouli Absolu fragrance as an ode to the iconic raw material, reinventing it and giving it a vanguardist approach. Sounds nice, but CB has done that already in 2005. I think that for those who study perfumery it will be interesting to compare the differences of perceptions of what means a contemporary patchouli almost 10 years later. </o:p></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #fff2cc;">#203 VIOLET EMPIRE</span><br />
<span style="color: #f1bfc0;">I listed this fragrance back in 2012 in an article about <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/violets-fragrances-top-list.html"><span style="color: #0000ef;">Violets Fragrances</span></a> and it is one of the
most amazing violet perfumes I have ever encountered.</span><span style="color: #f1bfc0;">Designed with notes of Elemi, Violet leafs absolute, Rosewood,
Mahogany and Russian leather. Since Violet Absolute is no longer available for
its extremely expensive price, CB had to recreate it. </span><span style="color: #f1bfc0;">It is probably the smell of Heaven, when you are involved in a
cloud of love and kindness. It is the smell of a bunch of little children with
sparkling eyes surrounding a huge birthday cake. It is the smell of NOTHING
MATTERS BUT MY VERY OWN HAPPINESS! </span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span style="color: #f1bfc0;">How to start describing this precious elixir? </span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span style="color: #f1bfc0;">It is one of the gentlest perfumes I have ever tried. It
contains such a positive aura that you feel like taking a bath of it EVERY
morning before starting the day. </span><span style="color: #f1bfc0;">It is perfectly crafted and I would be this man's slave if he
promised me a constant supply of this perfume. Yes, that is what is wicket
about his perfume. Once you wear the smell of heaven, kindness, love and sparkling
children's eyes you get to be so irresistible that lack sex would never be an
issue anymore. Any person with a nose will want to smell your skin for hours, so careful with the seductive power of this perfume.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f1bfc0;">Once the kindness fades away you will be involved in a very sensual leather note that urges you to kiss and be touched.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f1bfc0;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f1bfc0;">If I was to describe this fragrance in a short way I would say it is a Victoria Secret's Angel Top Model. heavenly and sexy as hell!</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDVRE3wE1uCnUrb0uhZMuiw9VnQfBMkg7qPI5QpEKyvFIhevnSsArou2G-b5We9JgZ-L7QvXPSlCNwcoB8e9IOTDq51L7NjPbeKTY6ptL7J8vRNm-3S1uXPYIWY41dw7hSR0fvynG-jNyk/s1600/Candice-Swanepoel-Victorias-Secret-Angel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDVRE3wE1uCnUrb0uhZMuiw9VnQfBMkg7qPI5QpEKyvFIhevnSsArou2G-b5We9JgZ-L7QvXPSlCNwcoB8e9IOTDq51L7NjPbeKTY6ptL7J8vRNm-3S1uXPYIWY41dw7hSR0fvynG-jNyk/s1600/Candice-Swanepoel-Victorias-Secret-Angel.jpg" height="200" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p>Victoria Secret's Wing Model Candice Swanepoel</o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #fff2cc;">#204 TEA ROSE </span></div>
</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p style="line-height: 17px;">Simple and extremely beautiful, this fragrance combines real Moroccan Rose Absolute with Indian black tea.</o:p></div>
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<o:p>The result is I was never a rose perfume fan but I must admit that there are 2 fragrances that I call redemption: CB I HATE PERFUME ROSE TEA and <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2010/05/rose-poivree-edt-by-different-company.html">The Different Company ROSE </a>POIVREÉ. I love both for the same reason: they are real roses. While in TDC rose comes with pink peppercorns and coriander, here you will find the perfect blend of black tea and rose. It is feminine, classy, extremely gentle and REAL. I loved this fragrance so much and I identified with CB in terms of loving or not loving rose perfumes. I know exactly what he meant.</o:p><br />
<o:p><br /></o:p>
<o:p>To be continued... </o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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<o:p>The Fragrances: </o:p></div>
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#201/CB93/FALL 2005 <o:p></o:p></div>
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#202/PATCHOULI EMPIRE/FALL 2005 <o:p></o:p></div>
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#203/VIOLET EMPIRE/SPRING 2006 <o:p></o:p></div>
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#204/TEA/ROSE/WINTER 2005 <o:p></o:p></div>
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#205/7 BILLION HEARTS/SPRING 2012 <o:p></o:p></div>
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#212/AMBROSIUS/FALL 2009 <o:p></o:p></div>
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#215/CBMUSK/SUMMER 2004 <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 14px;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 17px;">You can order this collection in his website by clicking <a href="http://cbihateperfume.com/category/cb_reinvention_series/">HERE</a></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-15434997058486691712015-01-15T08:17:00.001-08:002015-04-03T13:17:30.406-07:00SMELL IN THE CITY - AN URBAN OLFACTIVE JOURNEY IN SÃO PAULO CITY - BRAZIL - PART V<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaGRBxGdX-CpLAZsxQLwYWwvcgzadp4TVXpQzSHsf7N-8mObhL6mkaDm2wbcC1BsDIDAF6DxtAcpMvcvzzKM4_kIjuzj5hp80zw4cnE4kcd2Ia7Css_z7H1gg_3CQoxkW8Rs1irpNDn8ND/s1600/smellscape+pic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaGRBxGdX-CpLAZsxQLwYWwvcgzadp4TVXpQzSHsf7N-8mObhL6mkaDm2wbcC1BsDIDAF6DxtAcpMvcvzzKM4_kIjuzj5hp80zw4cnE4kcd2Ia7Css_z7H1gg_3CQoxkW8Rs1irpNDn8ND/s1600/smellscape+pic.jpg" height="640" width="484" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Continuing to draw the smellscape of São Paulo City I am bringing you today smells and odors that are very cosmopolitan, such as the smell of construction debris found everywhere in the city. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">São Paulo is a city in development and remodeling, so you will find parked in almost every street what we call CAÇAMBA DE ENTULHO or construction dumpsters/containers. Pieces of wood, ceramics, concrete, walls, cartons and plastics are deposited everyday in these containers under the sun or rain until contractors fill them up and call collectors to remove them from site. If you pass near these container you will smell dust, paint, rotten wood and wet concrete all together. It is the smell of change, modernity.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Although Brazilians try to copy movements coming from other countries such as being eco-friendly, selective garbage disposals are not very common. They exist but it is not enforced by any legislation. Usually you will find huge plastic bags mixing all sorts of meat, poultry and fish leftovers combined with fruits is decay, papers of all sort and used aluminum foils, broken glasses and vases etc... just waiting outside to be collected. In my neighborhood you can put the garbage outside 3 days a week and only 2 hours before the garbage truck passes by.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">According to the City Hall website the city generates 20.000 tons of garbage per day which 12.000 come from private homes. Also it is known that Brazilian garbage is one of the richest garbages in the world. As experts explain, the more developed and richer the country is, poorer is its garbage. Our garbage still reflect a third world country condition.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">If you take a walk in my neighborhood you will find a lot of plastic bags filled with broken tree branches, leafs and recent cut grass collected from the yards. They smell fresh, green with a hint of wooden decay and straw. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Also if you pass by my street early in the morning on sunny days you will smell the scent of fabric softeners. It is the smell of recently washed laundry. Slightly powdery, very flowery and sometimes very sweet. Brazilians also have the worst habit of washing the outside areas of the house with water, not minding the challenges of water shortage that we are facing. They pretend it does not exist. So the green fresh smell of garden waste combines with the scent of laundry softener and detergents plus some sort of powder soap that runs out of the houses to the sidewalks. I must confess I love that smell, even thou it is selfish and not very eco-friendly. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The backfire of this misuse of water is that sometimes it brings back the smell of dried urine of dogs. It is simple unbearable, b</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">ut sometimes something magical happens. The smell of urine is combined with the scent of flowers in a way that you can create an holographic white tropical flower as you pass by. I love when that happens!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">São Paulo is not like New York City where the smell of human piss and dog's urine is so strong sometimes that you feel nauseated. Since we have even more dogs than New Yorkers, I take it our dogs piss less or are dog owners are more educated...</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Another common smell is the one coming from kiosks located on the sidewalks. These kiosks sell newspapers, printed magazines, cigarettes, candy and sometimes beverages.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">As you pass by a kiosk you can smell the scent of recently printed papers. It is a particular smell of ink, mixed with the smell of glue and varnish. The smell is dry and fatty. Oily I must say. When it comes to women's magazine you will also find hints of all sorts of perfume printed ads with encapsulated fragrances. The old scratch and sniff or open and sniff techniques. I love the smell of the kiosks in São Paulo. They give a hip and classy touch to the streets. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">And since we are mentioning ink...São Paulo embraces street art like no other city. We simply love graffiti! They are everywhere including on the walls of private home commissioned by its owners. They are colorful, creative and real pieces of modern art. We have embraced them and we have an open gallery located in the neighborhood called Vila Madalena where you will find wall after all covered by beautiful graffiti. Probably the most famous and the one you all know by name is Os Gêmeos - the two brothers whose street art has travelled the world. Everywhere I pass by I smell the scent of fresh spray paint. Frankly I am allergic to it so it is not my favorite. Visually I adore it!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2OpBdEUcOFgHXN_RX5t8GGXsuiw1paJiKouHY05ilLU0Kh_DaXvuV8u89n_xhoZ4nSlYsPdFuXfL9eXidpQakruM6HfRpVKJ1mfPqYdMig55dESr57Bz4GEXakPJxdjVzuZci1uPWhnPk/s1600/smellwalk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2OpBdEUcOFgHXN_RX5t8GGXsuiw1paJiKouHY05ilLU0Kh_DaXvuV8u89n_xhoZ4nSlYsPdFuXfL9eXidpQakruM6HfRpVKJ1mfPqYdMig55dESr57Bz4GEXakPJxdjVzuZci1uPWhnPk/s1600/smellwalk.jpg" height="640" width="481" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Remember I said that São Paulo has a rustic side? Well we still have street markets in every neighborhood. If you pass near one the strongest smell you will find is of coconut oil cooking pastries. It is not a good smell IMO. It is the smell of fat, flour and cheese burning. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">If you stay close to the fish stands you will find a cold smell of ice mixed with the briny - salty smell of the ocean. Fresh fish actually smell good! The only problem for me is when fish vendors open the fish to clean. The smell of guts and blood are not my favorite. They wash them after opening and this water runs down to the pavement which later on starts to evaporate and stink. I can't stand that. So if you happen to be here in town, try to have a street market experience early in the morning when the sun is not burning the skull and you won't smell rotten fish vapors.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The aroma of vegetables and fruits are a one of kind experience. It is simply lovely and fresh. Very tropical, very intense. You will also find spice stands where you will smell a combination of cinnamon, nutmeg, oregano and bay leaf. Very intense by the way!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">These aromas are so beautiful that a Brazilian cosmetic brand called <a href="http://www.duchacosmeticos.com.br/">DUCHA</a> has all its products inspired by them. The founders wanted to bring the street market experience to the homes of its clients; specially to the bathtub.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Street markets leave a residual smell that is as disgusting as the smell of an old opened trash. Oranges in decay and rotten fish odors are washed with tons of water after they dismount the stands. Truth is that you can still smell that disgusting residual rotten smell of garbage in decomposition the day after. A tip for people looking for apartments - check if the street has an open market. If so, don't rent; don't buy it!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">So let's make a quick list what was mentioned till now:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1. smell of Pinheiros and Tiête rivers (rotten eggs)</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">2. basaltic and limestone rocks, dust, pollution, pavement, abrasive metallic haze, rain water evaporating</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">3. flowers and plants of the park</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">4. humidity, moss, fungus, wood in decay, </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">5. spray paint, construction waste, garden waste, garbage</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">6. frech ink, glue, varnish, encapsulated perfume</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">7. laundry softeners and soaps, dog piss</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">8. fresh fish, rotten fish, fresh fruits and vegetables, rotten fruits and vegetables, spices, fat+flour+cheese burning</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Stick around as I continue to smellwalk in São Paulo!</span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">http://twitter.com/maisqueperfume
http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-7374293377052263352015-01-08T05:55:00.003-08:002015-01-08T05:55:46.197-08:00Niche ENNICHED?<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Photo credit: Wedding Inspiration website</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In my <a href="http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/diminiched-approach-to-niche-perfumery.html">last article about niche perfumery</a> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I discussed what NICHE meant. It was back in 2012 when a lot of bloggers, perfumers and perfume magazines were discussing the future of niche perfumery, its meaning and some of them were even discussing that at some point niche as it was presented could not be considered niche perfumery anymore.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Two years ago I said that opinions about the subject could be divided in 2 groups: the extremists or purists who think that niche means ONLY exclusive small perfume brands offering unique fragrances; and the generalists that find that everything you can offer to a certain niche can be nominated niche (I am in this group).</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">At that time I also explored the crucial elements that defined niche and from them I extracted meaning of niche perfumery:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11pt;">-</span><span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11pt;"> </span></span>Small<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">-<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Specialized<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">-<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Market segment<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">-<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Specific<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">-<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span>Marketing strategy<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">All lead to the common meanings that niche perfumery was 1) <b>A specialized market segment in perfumery</b>, or 2) <b>A marketing strategy created to sell perfume </b>(according to the needs, interests and wants of a group of people).</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Three years later I feel that it is time that we talk about niche perfumery again and reevaluate it as it is today. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">The reason to do so is the fact that niche is no longer behaving at it was before. </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">Once niche perfumery was ENNICHED by the market some brands started to behave like mass production companies. </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">From starters a question just popped out of my mind: Maybe we need to change permanently the name of this category of perfumery from NICHE to INDIE? </span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">Let's find out!</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">According to the Fragrance Foundation - the organization giving the FIFI AWARDS - the INDIE perfume award category (USA) is given to a fragrance launched by a brand </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cfe2f3;">not distributed or owned by a large company</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"> and sold in under 50 stores in the USA.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;">In this case we can exclude all the brands that were sold to equity groups or larger companies. But does that mean the ones not following in this category are still behaving like a niche brand?</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">The French perfume brand Annick Goutal was one of the first independent niche brands to be acquired by a group. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">Being previously owned by the investment group Starwood Capital </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">was bought by giant Korean Cosmetic brand Amore Pacific in 2011. I remember the criticism years ago and the long discussions about quality of the raw materials and how AG lovers felt somehow betrayed by the brand. That was just the beginning...</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">Recently many other niche brands owners followed the path of Camille Goutal (the daughter of the founder of AG brand). UK private Equity Company Manzanita bought Diptyque and Byredo; Le Labo was bought by Estée Lauder Group who already owned Jo Malone, Frederic Malle and Tom Ford Beauty...etc etc...</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 21px;">Is there a back fire of these operations?</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 21px;">According to specialists in branding if the original niche brand does not retain its identity, its niche market is ruined or it is no longer enniched. If the parent brand gives credibility to the brand acquired - great! If not, it is doomed to failure. In fact, it is the personality of the Indie and the power of the parent brand that will show a rebrand, an integration, an extension etc... </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">A brand should encompass its niche market both functional and emotionally, and if still does after being bought, values will be maintained or even improved.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">You see, brand values offer a promise. It is a set of attributes that its consumers experience by using their products. A deviation of this "promise" will eventually harm this loyalty.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">But what is happening to the brands who did not have the fortune to be bought by bigger groups? Are they still behaving as they promised? Are they still using the same marketing strategies as in the beginning?</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">For many years niche perfumery sold the idea that it does not follow trends. Fact is that this promise is no longer there. As an example let's examine some facts of the market:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">How many niche brands ran to launch its very own OUD fragrance because it was a fever - A RAW MATERIAL TREND no so long ago predicted by companies such as Seven or Mintel? A trend that is coming back by the way for my misfortune.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">How many brands launched a perfume around a rose, leather or patchouli note this winter because it was predicted to be the next good selling product for 2015/2016 autumn and winter seasons? Check P&F article <a href="http://www.perfumerflavorist.com/flavor/trends/Seven-Predicts-Fragrance-Trends-for-Autumn-Winter-2015-16-275144131.html">here</a>.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">Check the latest new launches for this winter and you will see that niche perfumery perfumer and brand owners are starting to follow trends like any other brand:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">To make the story short: Luckyscent is displaying nothing more than 16 new leather niche fragrances and 17 new rose fragrances.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">About packing design trends. Niche brands are beginning to follow trends of massive production. How many niche brand went back to their designers and ordered revamped fragrance bottles because it was a trend in the mass production market? Also a trend pointed out not so long ago in the media - for those how follow the market you know what I am talking about!! Remember the trend of heavy luxurious flacons? Many ran to make their very own and the ones who did not have it till then, ran to remodel their design.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">The celebrities - this is the most sensitive element to point out. French niche perfumery brand Etat Libre D'Orange invited Tilda Swinton to "collaborate" with the creation of this fragrance. Boom! It got an FiFi Award in France. The brand had used the face of Rossy de Palma before. The marketing strategy is to call the celebrity a "muse". Another tactic - announce out loud "this or that celebrity wears my brand" - strategy used by French niche brand Honoré de Prés using Jessica Alba to sell Vamp a NY fragrance.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">So, are niche brands really telling stories as they say they do? Are niche brands reflecting the personality of the owner as they once said they do? A reflexion to be made by all of us consumers.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">Does that mean that niche fragrances once ENNICHED are no longer loyal to their consumers? Maybe, maybe not. Maybe it is the other way around.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">How many brands were launched from 2005 to 2015? Ten years ago you had a small number of perfumers launching their brands and selling exclusive lines. But what happens when the market offers 10 to 20 new different niche brands in a year and regular customers begin to have the urge to try the new brands? Are they still loyal to the houses that once inspired them?</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">Today niche perfumery takes 10% of high end perfume sales globally. The market changed. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">Cosmetic Business Magazine pointed out on today's issue that Euromonitor is predicting 3 trends for the fragrance market <i>"</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>Three trends are expected to take off within the fragrance market this year: the rising popularity of niche fragrances, fragrance personalisation and novel retail experiences.</i>"</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;">The article also brings insights of niche brand Micallef on the subject that are interesting:</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">“Consumers will continue to look for an effective identity and ability to relate emotionally and personally to a fragrance. In line with this, industry players are formulating fragrances with alternative ingredients to meet such demands. We have seen fragrances formulated with sea salt and saffron, for example, which are still alternative ingredients. Naturally, big players are trying to tap into this lucrative part of the business as evidenced by Estée Lauder's recent acquisition of Le Labo and Frédéric Malle.”</span></i></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">Regarding the fact that competition in this segment is on the rise:</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>“In order to meet such a challenge, fragrance players need to sustain their niche intent and avoid commoditising the scent.”</i></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;">Micallef talks about formulation of the fragrance with alternative ingredients. that was one of the elements of the marketing strategy used exclusively by niche brands in the past. Niche brands always highlight the fact that they use expensive or unique raw materials in their composition. True sometimes. But is today a practice that is exclusive of niche brands? what about the exclusive collections of Dior or Chanel? Mass production companies changed to fit the market. exclusivity of raw materials are now part of their marketing strategy to sell fragrances for a more exclusive public.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;">I bring my favorite perfumer Jean Claude Ellena to the picture. The man was one of the first perfumers to explain the background of fragrance production. In his book Le Parfum </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; line-height: 21px;">(French edition of 2007) where he defines niche in chapter VII – Le Marketing (in English - The Marketing), sections I – Le marketing de la demande (in English – The marketing of the demand) and II – Le marketing de niche (in English - The niche marketing) to check what this master perfumer has said in the past about this subject:</span><br />
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He mentioned that brands like Annick Goutal, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Comme de Garçons, Diptyque, Frédérick Malle, The Different Company were the precursors of the awareness of the immediacy, the “déjà vus” or stereotypes of mainstream perfumery and its lack of surprises. According to him, these niche perfumers (he gave us this name in the book) could be only discriminated by the system of distribution they have adopted, which was mostly, to sell their fragrances in their own boutiques, with a set of criteiras set by them to understand their commercial approach. In section II he defines <b>niche as a marketing strategy</b>: a non-use of advertising support; the perfumers are placed in front of the perfumes (meaning you know who they are), and most of all: <b>the perfume must speak for itself</b>; it has to have a very strong identification, more olfactive. A great deal of attention is given to the name of the brand. In his opinion, a niche perfume is not only a way of distributing and selling perfume; it is also the way the brand shows its difference. He also mentions the service given to its clientele: the places where these perfumes are found are relatively closed places, where clients receive personal attention. Their satisfaction is crucial. The complicity is crucial - the mouth to mouth is the best advertising of these products. As per the creation itself, perfumers are free to create with an olfactive independence.</div>
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So what about English niche brand Creed and its advertising campaign for this last Christmas?</div>
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"Fragrance house Creed has announced plans to run its first print media advertising campaign to support its men’s scent Aventus.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #cfe2f3;">The campaign is set to appear in a number of consumer publications including GQ, Esquire, Men’s Health, Big Black Book, Style (Sunday Times), Telegraph Luxury, Vanity Fair and FT: How to Spend It. Advertising will also be supported by ongoing PR to further drive sales in the run up to Christmas.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>Chris Hawksley, Managing Director of The Orange Square Company and UK distributor for Creed, said: “We are seeing consumers return to quality brands they trust and we are seeking to capitalise on this throughout the Christmas retail period to create maximum awareness of both the Creed brand and this much- loved classic, while supporting the brand’s continued success.” Aventus launched in 2010 to support Creed’s 250th anniversary. The scent contains top notes of apple, blackcurrant, pineapple and bergamot; heart notes of juniper berries, birch, patchouli and jasmine; and base notes of vanilla, musk, oakmoss and ambergris." (extracted by Cosmetic Business website - article posted in 5 Nov 2014).</i></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">A niche brand according to Ellena does not advertise in magazines such as GQ. Well, it seems that things have changed in this segment. And what about the large number of online sellers of niche brands? What is the difference between sites selling niche brands on line and O Boticário lanching its Eudora website?</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The final question that I raise for reflexion - as per marketing strategy called "mouth to mouth" does that include paying people to go on line in facebook, blogs, twitter and others to endorse brands being PAID to do so? I don't need to name the faces here, you all know who they are by now. Blogging was once a hobby, a passion...today it is leverage in one's bank account. The bloggers are not the issue here. I don't want to raise this discussion today in this article, but I do want to raise the question about the ethics niche brands have or have not when it starts to "support" the mouth to mouth opinion about how wonderful their perfumes are. Paying certain celeb-wanna-bes of facebook to promote this or that brand is a marketing strategy called ADVERTISING.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;">When money comes to the scene and profits are increasing brands, bloggers, consumers all change their behavior. Everyone wants a piece of this luxurious niche cake.</span></span></div>
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http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4506324261995021839.post-1140773237194497382015-01-05T05:20:00.000-08:002015-01-05T05:20:20.761-08:00SMELL IN THE CITY - AN URBAN OLFACTIVE JOURNEY IN SÃO PAULO - BRAZIL - PART IV<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In my first article of the SMELL IN THE CITY series I started to describe the SMELLSCAPE of São Paulo City. Today I will continue to deepen into the unique olfactive qualities of this city by bringing to you sensory information of my perception of different places and sites.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Before we start this journey I will introduce a concept that will be used many times in this text - SMELLSCAPE.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> In "Landscape's - ocular-centrism and beyond?" </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Hannah Mcpherson from the school of Architecture, Planning & Landscape of the University of Newcastle, UK explains that although the environment perception literature focus mostly in the ocular centric approach (sight), there are other alternative aspects of how the land is sensed and interacted with. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Talking about multi-sensory interaction with the land she points out that the relationship between perception, the senses and the landscape is not fixed, but geographically, historically and culturally contingent. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">She also mentions the works of Porteous and the inclusion of the such terms as soundscapes and smellscapes.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Our perception of places and landscapes are also understood experiencing sounds and smells. Landscape perception is therefore, a "whole-body activity".</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The experience of visiting a city cannot be reduced only to a visual perception of the place and its landscape, but an enriched experience that must bring a multi sensory exploration!</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">For us here sound and touch are less important, but not excluded. I will focus more on the SMELLSCAPE of São Paulo by bringing general smellscapes for the entire city, no matter where you are located or local olfactive experiences in neighborhoods of my choice.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Last time I started describing São Paulo's general smellscape as follows:</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>"My smell walk in São Paulo City starts with an olfactive exercise of trying to decompose the general smell that is particular of my city. </i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>Unfortunately the <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2012/12/15/world/americas/a-diver-sifts-through-sao-paulos-polluted-rivers.html?pagewanted=all" style="color: #0065dd; text-decoration: none;">stench</a> of Tiete & Pinheiros Rivers is growing stronger as we approach to Summer, added to the fact that the air is denser and dryer due to a long and severe period of drought. We are facing an increasing amount of dust in the air and also in the level of the city's pollution. The result is a stronger odor of sewer discharge (consisting of industrial and domestic waste) combined with the stench of abrasive metallic pollutants and the smell of a haze of urban dust which is a mix of fine particles of residual concrete, paint, wood and many others materials used in the construction of buildings.<br />These 02 rivers with high concentrations of sulfides flow through the city bringing a smell of putrid waste and rotten eggs all together.</i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i>It is indeed a very difficult task drift away from that stench, but a trained nose must be succeed by focusing in something else".</i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Updating the local meteorological status - it started to rain. In fact we have been celebrating many heavy to medium showers lately - which painted a slightly different scenario in our smellscape. Let's say the smell of dust has decreased and the smell of humidity has returned.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">To describe the olfactive urban design of São Paulo I will start from below the nose with smells located underfoot with the Brazilian pavements and sidewalks.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">BRAZILIAN PAVEMENTS & SIDEWALKS</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">You will find different types of pavements and pavements techniques in São Paulo. The most beautiful one IMO is the mosaic shaped sidewalks:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 24px;">Calçada portuguesa – Portuguese Calçada or mosaic (also known in Brazil as Portuguese stones) is a specific pavement, used mostly for finishing the walkways and sidewalks, alleys, squares and other bustling places. This stone flooring is particularly popular in Portuguese speaking countries. The unique mosaic pavements (typically from limestone or basalt) are irregularly shaped. The game of contrasts allows forming various decorative designs because of the difference in the nuances of the different pieces.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 21px;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 24px;">The most common colors used for shaping the cobblestones are black and white, but there may be found in red and brown. (extracted from the work of Tatiana Weintraub and Waldemar Celes "Modeling the Copacabana Sidewalk Pavement").</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; line-height: 21px;"></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f4cccc; line-height: 21px;"></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Contrary to Israel and the United States where pavements made of concrete are everywhere, here we find a vast array of styles and materials. What is unique about these pavements is that there is a sense that time has stopped here. Sometimes you feel you are in a small village centuries ago just by looking to these trails of limestones. Brazilians are not picky about plants growing on the corners of the sidewalks. Sometimes the roots of trees have such extraordinary growth underneath the pavements and that they lift the sidewalks and street pavements </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">resulting in superficial runoff, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">or end up crackling them considerably, taking over the landscape. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">São Paulo has many streets and entire areas presenting partial or total pavement destruction d</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">ue to high </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">traffic </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">density and the high volume of pluvial waters a year round.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Urban flooding is still a reality here even in the fanciest neighborhoods.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In terms of smellscape there </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">is a very exquisite combination of mineral smells of limestone and basaltic stones combined with the smell of dirty humidity from soil and rain water evaporating with the heat. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">São Paulo is in constant rebuilding, so it is very common to find the smell of shaving/grinding stones, the tarry- rubbery smell of blacktop (asphalt mix) or the smell of smoke and oil of tractors working outside on the streets.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">RUSTIC TOUCH</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Interlocked concrete pavements do exist in larger areas and squares, but the streets of São Paulo still offer the vintage experience.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Then there is the particular smell of the humid dirty accumulated between stones combined with the smell of moss that grows within time - </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">a deep green smell of moss with a decay aura on top of it and the fresh flowery smell of plants, little flowers and fungus.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Fact is that e</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">cological pavements do not offer the infiltration of pluvial water and the growth of plants and mosses like these limestones do.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Visually São Paulo still presents some sort of rusticity to its landscape. All over town you will find rotten cut branches of trees with huge fungus cultures shelving up and rotten wood benches and fences. This brings a particular smell of wood decay and humidity to the air that is very countryside-ish. To me it is natural, organic and mushroomy. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In my next post we will continue to explore the city's smellscape focusing in smell sources of all kinds. Good or bad. because the olfactive identity of a place is not the designed by a home spray or a city themed perfume!</span></div>
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http://maisqueperfume.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default</div>SIMONE SHITRIThttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13265396466119947610noreply@blogger.com0