Saturday, October 27, 2012




"The Jardin Noir collection explores the forbidden sides of four of perfumery's most treasured blooms: narcissus, hyancinth, rose, and lily. Convention is abandoned and unexpected ingredients converge with bewitching and intoxicating results. Iconic flowers fall open, dropping their innocent facades to reveal the subversive beauty and fierce elegance they normally keep hidden. Enticing. Exotic. Seductive. Cafe Rose descends into a hidden labyrinth, where rose's fine breeding gives way to darker pleasures."

CAFÉ ROSE EDP - Official olfactive notes are saffron, black pepper, may, Turquish and Bulgarian roses, coffee, incense, amber, sandalwood and patchouli.
It is a fragrance presented for both genders. I think it is a genius rose for men and a nice perfume for the ladies. Rich, delicate and powerful at the same time, it explores many types of roses and it adds a deliciously gourmet note of coffee. It is a classic construction, but a modern choice for men!
It is elegant and worth trying.

LYS FUME EDP - Official olfactive notes are Italian mandarine, black pepper, turmeric, nutmeg, white lily, ylang ylang, artemisia, rum, vanilla, labdanum, styrax and oak.
Much greater than Lys Carmin by Van Cleef & Arpels, which is an interesting perfume.

Friday, October 26, 2012


This Fall I had the lovely opportunity to travel to NYC, and have a whiff of many of the newest perfumes launched in October. Some were surprisingly good; some made me wonder why would I bother to even mention their names.

One of this Autumn's best perfumes was indeed a great surprise to me.
Thierry Mugler's iconic Angel was never my choice for a gourmet fragrance. It would NEVER have a place in my wardrobe. I understand that it was a that time, an innovation, the first of all gourmet fragrances. Many years passed and every season we have an avalanche gourmet perfumes; some have been really fantastic creations,  proving my theory that being the first does not mean being the best.

Well, back to Angel...I was a cold rainy day, and I fond myself wondering inside Bloomingdales. Still shocked by Coco Noir, my mind was already set to not to be tempted by any other smiling sales person in that store,  when this very charming lady asked me if I knew Thierry Mugler was celebrating the 20th anniversary of his haute perfumery line. I was already thinking how to turn my head to the other side without being inpolite, when a little "angel" whispered to my ears "why not? give it a chance".

Angel Les parfums de Cuir de Thierry Mugler is a limited edition of the original Angel, belonging to a collection of four fragrances chosen to celebrate the brand's 20th anniversary. For this ocasion, Thierry Mugler inspired by the art-craft of glove making worked on the original fragrances, adding natural extracts of leather.
Also, for Angel Les Parfums de Cuir, notes of iris and apricot were added to give the fragrance a very elegant gourmet touch.
The fragrance which is in my opinion an iconic teenager perfumer, has grown up into this very elegant woman who seduces without having to make an effort.
It is chic, warm, leathery and it reminds us of something that is good in Angel - I mean, it brings also it's positive aura, it's richness, but it is not really THE Angel (probably the reason why I loved it so much). The distance from the original makes me even dare to say that this not exactly a flanker, but a process of growing up, maturing ideas and concepts.
The fragrance bottle looks much more appealing than what you will see in the internet. The real bottle is simply beautiful. It looks like a jewel. It contains a golden caramelized liquid in a perfectly polished vial that looks like a diamond cut made by an experienced jeweler. 
It is worthwhile to try! Now I have no idea if this is the little angel telling you that, or the little devil in me, sitting on your shoulders and inviting you to sin..let me know!

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Coco Noir by CHANEL

Models attending to mass at Coco Chanel's funeral
Photo credits: Bettmann & Corbis

It is with great sorrow that I announce the death of the Chanel's perfumery.
Fragrances such as Chance Eau Tendre, Bleu de Chanel, or Brad Pitt adverting Chanel Nº5 were the symptoms of a severe disease that has been killing the brand slowly. The name of the disease we all know  - Massive Cheap Productions (to sell "as much we can"), or MCP Syndrome if you like to be more intellectual.

Funerals are time of mourning, remembrance, and sometimes, a painful closure. Western traditions dictate that funeral attendees should avoid color in respect for the deceased and opt for the lowest value - black.
Death came in black for Chanel. Just as Coco would choose to dress for her own funeral. Coco Noir could not be presented in any other color than black. It is a statement: We killed Chanel's good taste for perfumes.

Coco Noir advertising

If an ad would be placed in the obituary of Le Monde, or any important newspaper, it would simply report "Chanel fragrances, once beautiful, daring, glamourous...passed away this fall as a result of a long battle to be the most important fragrance brand in the global market. Leaving to mourn with fragrant memories, 1000s of Chanel wearers.

And this is the amount of time I will spend reviewing this perfume.
Sprayed many times during my trip to NYC. 
It did not grow on me, neither convinced me that this is a modern version of it.

And who is going to advertise this crap? Angelina Jolie???
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...