NICHE PERFUMERY LECTURE/ CURSO DE PERFUMARIA DE NICHO

The lounge minutes before starting

This blogger has a long term relationship with CDCP - A center for diffusion of perfume knowledge in São Paulo, Brazil. Through this partnership I have been invited to be one of the jurors of the perfume award Atualidade Cosmética and I have been making brainstorming sessions with fragrance houses and marketing strategy projects.

This year they invited me to give a lecture on Niche Perfumery as part of the studies of perfume in a year round course they offer to professionals of the industry of perfumery and cosmetics.

It was a 3 hours lecture where I told them the history of Niche Perfumery; the concept of niche; the classifications of niche brands an niche perfumery as it is today and its future. We explored many brands and many different concepts in a whiff & think session.

It was very interesting to share ideas with marketing managers and perfumers and how professionals of the cosmetic industry and packing developers could use some of the ideas of niche perfumery in their businesses.

The brands presented were:

Annick Goutal, Jo Malone, Antonio Alessandria, Heeley, Yosh, Mona di Orio, Keiko Mecheri, Olivier Durbano, Maison Kurkdjian, Jovoy Paris, Victoria Minya, Editions de Parfums Frederique Malle, État Libre d’Orange, CB I Hate Perfume, S-Perfume, Blood Concept, A Lab on Fire, Juliette Has a Gun, Nasomatto, Histoires de Parfum, biehl parfumkunstwerke, Fueguia 1833, Olfactive Studio, Clive Christian, Creed, Xerjoff, Puredistance, Ormonde Jayne, Rancé , Creed, Penhaligons’, Fragonard, Maitre Parfumeur e Gantier,  Lubin, Santa Maria Novella, Farmacia SS. Annunziata dal 156, Les Parfums de Rosine, Le Labo, Byredo, Ego Facto, Bond Nº9, Mandy Aftel, Rich Hippie, Pacifica, Tsi-La, Rebel Intuitive Perfumerie, Strange Invisible Perfumes, Honoré des Prés, Neela Vermiere Creation, Kerosene, The Vagabond Prince, Aus Liebe zum Duft, Aedes de Venustas, Min NY, Comme de Garçons, Aesop, Costes, Ladurée, Les exclusifs, Van Cleef & Arpels Colection Extraordinaire, Tom Ford Private Blend, Estée Lauder Private Collection, Cartier Lês Heures de Parfum, Dior La Collection Privée.

Shops mentioned: 

Aedes de Venustas, Min NY, Campomarzio 70, Nose, Crème de La Crème, Hip-Nose; and websites luckyscent and  Aus Liebe zum Duft.

Niche ENNICHED?

Photo credit: Wedding Inspiration website

In my last article about niche perfumery I discussed what NICHE meant. It was back in 2012 when a lot of bloggers, perfumers and perfume magazines were discussing the future of niche perfumery, its meaning and some of them were even discussing that at some point niche as it was presented could not be considered niche perfumery anymore.

Two years ago I said that opinions about the subject could be divided in 2 groups: the extremists or purists who think that niche means ONLY exclusive small perfume brands offering unique fragrances; and the generalists that find that everything you can offer to a certain niche can be nominated niche (I am in this group).

At that time I also explored the crucial elements that defined niche and from them I extracted meaning of niche perfumery:

-   Small

-       Specialized

-       Market segment

-       Specific

-       Marketing strategy

All lead to the common meanings that niche perfumery was 1) A specialized market segment in perfumery, or 2) A marketing strategy created to sell perfume (according to the needs, interests and wants of a group of people).

Three years later I feel that it is time that we talk about niche perfumery again and reevaluate it as it is today. The reason to do so is the fact that niche is no longer behaving at it was before. 

Once niche perfumery was ENNICHED by the market some brands started to behave like  mass production companies. 

From starters a question just popped out of my mind: Maybe we need to change permanently the name of this category of perfumery from NICHE to INDIE? 

Let's find out!

According to the Fragrance Foundation - the organization giving the FIFI AWARDS - the INDIE perfume award category (USA) is given to a fragrance launched by a brand not distributed or owned by a large company and sold in under 50 stores in the USA.

In this case we can exclude all the brands that were sold to equity groups or larger companies. But does that mean the ones not following in this category are still behaving like a niche brand?

The French perfume brand Annick Goutal was one of the first independent niche brands to be acquired by a group. Being previously owned by the investment group Starwood Capital was bought by giant Korean Cosmetic brand Amore Pacific in 2011. I remember the criticism years ago and the long discussions about quality of the raw materials and how AG lovers felt somehow betrayed by the brand. That was just the beginning...

Recently many other niche brands owners followed the path of Camille Goutal (the daughter of the founder of AG brand). UK private Equity Company Manzanita bought Diptyque and Byredo; Le Labo was bought by Estée Lauder Group who already owned Jo Malone, Frederic Malle and Tom Ford Beauty...etc etc...

Is there a back fire of these operations?

According to specialists in branding if the original niche brand does not retain its identity, its niche market is ruined or it is no longer enniched. If the parent brand gives credibility to the brand acquired  - great! If not, it is doomed to failure. In fact, it is the personality of the Indie and the power of the parent brand that will show a rebrand, an integration, an extension etc... A brand should encompass its niche market both functional and emotionally, and if still does after being bought, values will be maintained or even improved.

You see, brand values offer a promise. It is a set of attributes that its consumers experience by using their products. A deviation of this "promise" will eventually harm this loyalty.

But what is happening to the brands who did not have the fortune to be bought by bigger groups? Are they still behaving as they promised? Are they still using the same marketing strategies as in the beginning?

For many years niche perfumery sold the idea that it does not follow trends. Fact is that this promise is no longer there. As an example let's examine some facts of the market:

How many niche brands ran to launch its very own OUD fragrance because it was a fever - A RAW MATERIAL TREND no so long ago predicted by companies such as Seven or Mintel? A trend that is coming back by the way for my misfortune.

How many brands launched a perfume around a rose, leather or patchouli note this winter because it was predicted to be the next good selling product for 2015/2016 autumn and winter seasons? Check P&F article here.

Check the latest new launches for this winter and you will see that niche perfumery perfumer and brand owners are starting to follow trends like any other brand:

The Different Company - Kashan Rose EDP (Rose)

Parfums de Nicolai - Cuir Cuba Intense EDP (Leather)

Tauer Parfums - Un Rose de Kandahar (Rose)

Maison FK - Masculin Pluriel (Leather)

Tom Ford - Patchouli Absolu (Patchouli)

To make the story short: Luckyscent is displaying nothing more than 16 new leather niche fragrances and 17 new rose fragrances.

About packing design trends. Niche brands are beginning to follow trends of massive production. How many niche brand went back to their designers and ordered revamped fragrance bottles because it was a trend in the mass production market? Also a trend pointed out not so long ago in the media - for those how follow the market you know what I am talking about!! Remember the trend of heavy luxurious flacons? Many ran to make their very own and the ones who did not have it till then, ran to remodel their design.

The celebrities - this is the most sensitive element to point out. French niche perfumery brand Etat Libre D'Orange invited Tilda Swinton to "collaborate" with the creation of this fragrance. Boom! It got an FiFi Award in France. The brand had used the face of Rossy de Palma before. The marketing strategy is to call the celebrity a "muse". Another tactic - announce out loud "this or that celebrity wears my brand" - strategy used by French niche brand Honoré de Prés using Jessica Alba to sell Vamp a NY fragrance.

So, are niche brands really telling stories as they say they do? Are niche brands reflecting the personality of the owner as they once said they do? A reflexion to be made by all of us consumers.

Does that mean that niche fragrances once ENNICHED are no longer loyal to their consumers? Maybe, maybe not. Maybe it is the other way around.

How many brands were launched from 2005 to 2015? Ten years ago you had a small number of perfumers launching their brands and selling exclusive lines. But what happens when the market offers 10 to 20 new different niche brands in a year and regular customers begin to have the urge to try the new brands? Are they still loyal to the houses that once inspired them?

Today niche perfumery takes 10% of high end perfume sales globally. The market changed. 

Cosmetic Business Magazine pointed out on today's issue that Euromonitor is predicting 3 trends for the fragrance market  "Three trends are expected to take off within the fragrance market this year: the rising popularity of niche fragrances, fragrance personalisation and novel retail experiences."

The article also brings insights of niche brand Micallef on the subject that are interesting:
“Consumers will continue to look for an effective identity and ability to relate emotionally and personally to a fragrance. In line with this, industry players are formulating fragrances with alternative ingredients to meet such demands. We have seen fragrances formulated with sea salt and saffron, for example, which are still alternative ingredients. Naturally, big players are trying to tap into this lucrative part of the business as evidenced by Estée Lauder's recent acquisition of Le Labo and Frédéric Malle.”

Regarding the fact that competition in this segment is on the rise:
“In order to meet such a challenge, fragrance players need to sustain their niche intent and avoid commoditising the scent.”

Micallef talks about formulation of the fragrance with alternative ingredients. that was one of the elements of the marketing strategy used exclusively by niche brands in the past. Niche brands always highlight the fact that they use expensive or unique raw materials in their composition. True sometimes. But is today a practice that is exclusive of niche brands? what about the exclusive collections of Dior or Chanel? Mass production companies changed to fit the market. exclusivity of raw materials are now part of their marketing strategy to sell fragrances for a more exclusive public.

I bring my favorite perfumer Jean Claude Ellena to the picture. The man was one of the first perfumers to explain the background of fragrance production. In his book Le Parfum (French edition of 2007) where he defines niche in chapter VII – Le Marketing (in English - The Marketing), sections I – Le marketing de la demande (in English – The marketing of the demand) and II – Le marketing de niche (in English - The niche marketing) to check what this master perfumer has said in the past about this subject:

He mentioned that brands like Annick Goutal, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Comme de Garçons, Diptyque, Frédérick Malle, The Different Company were the precursors of the awareness of the immediacy, the “déjà vus” or stereotypes of mainstream perfumery and its lack of surprises. According to him, these niche perfumers (he gave us this name in the book) could be only discriminated by the system of distribution they have adopted, which was mostly, to sell their fragrances in their own boutiques, with a set of criteiras set by them to understand their commercial approach. In section II he defines niche as a marketing strategy: a non-use of advertising support; the perfumers are placed in front of the perfumes (meaning you know who they are), and most of all: the perfume must speak for itself; it has to have a very strong identification, more olfactive. A great deal of attention is given to the name of the brand. In his opinion, a niche perfume is not only a way of distributing and selling perfume; it is also the way the brand shows its difference. He also mentions the service given to its clientele: the places where these perfumes are found are relatively closed places, where clients receive personal attention. Their satisfaction is crucial. The complicity is crucial - the mouth to mouth is the best advertising of these products. As per the creation itself, perfumers are free to create with an olfactive independence.

So what about English niche brand Creed and its advertising campaign for this last Christmas?

"Fragrance house Creed has announced plans to run its first print media advertising campaign to support its men’s scent Aventus.

The campaign is set to appear in a number of consumer publications including GQ, Esquire, Men’s Health, Big Black Book, Style (Sunday Times), Telegraph Luxury, Vanity Fair and FT: How to Spend It. Advertising will also be supported by ongoing PR to further drive sales in the run up to Christmas.

Chris Hawksley, Managing Director of The Orange Square Company and UK distributor for Creed, said: “We are seeing consumers return to quality brands they trust and we are seeking to capitalise on this throughout the Christmas retail period to create maximum awareness of both the Creed brand and this much- loved classic, while supporting the brand’s continued success.” Aventus launched in 2010 to support Creed’s 250th anniversary. The scent contains top notes of apple, blackcurrant, pineapple and bergamot; heart notes of juniper berries, birch, patchouli and jasmine; and base notes of vanilla, musk, oakmoss and ambergris." (extracted by Cosmetic Business website - article posted in 5 Nov 2014).

A niche brand according to Ellena does not advertise in magazines such as GQ. Well, it seems that things have changed in this segment. And what about the large number of online sellers of niche brands? What is the difference between sites selling niche brands on line and O Boticário lanching its Eudora website?

The final question that I raise for reflexion - as per marketing strategy called "mouth to mouth" does that include paying people to go on line in facebook, blogs, twitter and others to endorse brands being PAID to do so? I don't need to name the faces here, you all know who they are by now. Blogging was once a hobby, a passion...today it is leverage in one's bank account. The bloggers are not the issue here. I don't want to raise this discussion today in this article, but I do want to raise the question about the ethics niche brands have or have not when it starts to "support" the mouth to mouth opinion about how wonderful their perfumes are. Paying certain celeb-wanna-bes of facebook to promote this or that brand is a marketing strategy called ADVERTISING.

When money comes to the scene and profits are increasing brands, bloggers, consumers all change their behavior. Everyone wants a piece of this luxurious niche cake.

+ Q Perfume Blog ensina: Aprendendo a ler rótulos

O QUE EXISTE POR TRÁS DE UM NOME E UMA EMBALAGEM DE UM PERFUME 

Qual a diferença entre Ck One e Ck One Summer 2010 da Calvin Klein?

Se você me disser que o primeiro é a fragrância original, e que o segundo é lançamento de verão, não está errado. Se você me disser que o Ck One Summer é uma pequena variação do original, e que isso é uma estratégia de marketing para emplacar uma nova fragrância, baseada no sucesso da sua precursora, também está correto. Muitas marcas lançam os chamados “flankers” como estratégia de marketing e financeira, economizando muitos milhões com novos desenvolvimentos. Mas será que é só isso mesmo?

Os rótulos dos perfumes, seus nomes e suas caixas nos informam muita coisa sobre a fragrância que está dentro dela. Sabendo o significado de palavras chaves que são muito usadas na indústria da perfumaria te ajudará a escolher um perfume na hora de comprar, e também será um indicativo de que você é meu leitor, e que possui  cultura sobre perfume mais elevada do que a maioria das pessoas.

Vamos estudar o dicionário perfumístico, entrar um pouco no mundo fascinante das embalagens, e entender o que está por trás das palavras usadas nos nomes impressos nos rótulos e das cores das embalagens. Você irá perceber que o mundo dos perfumes é muito detalhista, nada supérfluo e muito complexo, mas que não é difícil de desvendar!

Summer, Soleil, L’Eau D’Eté , Energize ou Energie -

Geralmente as fragrâncias de verão são versões mais energéticas ou mais frescas de um perfume. Notas mais cítricas, mais frisantes e solares são adicionadas na criação original. Muitas vezes também adiciona-se notas salgadas, de bronzeador ou outras que lembram a atmosfera olfativa da praia. Notas frutais também são muito comuns em versões de verão, adicionando uma nota mais acentuada na doçura do perfume original. Em termos de embalagem e frasco temos duas correntes – as que colocam cores pastéis para dar a noção de frescor; e as que colocam cores quentes como laranja e vermelho, para mostrar que o sol vai irradiar o perfume.

Vamos exemplificar com a fragrância mencionada anteriormente:

O Ck One original, lançado em 1995, era um perfume unissex, da família dos cítricos aromáticos. Com notas de cabeça de bergamota, limão, mandarina e notas verdes; notas de coração de jasmim, lírio do vale, rosa e orris; e notas de fundo de cedro, sândalo, âmbar e musgo. Já a versão atual, lançada para o verão de 2010 manteve algumas notas de saída, substituindo as notas verdes por notas de melancia,  tornando o perfume mais frisantes, e com efeito fluído. O acorde de coração que antes era mais denso com jasmim, rosa e orris, foi substituído por folhas de violeta, lírio aquático, verbena, margarida, trazendo mais leveza ao perfume. A base trocou o musgo, sândalo e o âmbar, por musk, vetiver e patchouli. Já o frasco, trouxe mudanças radicais: matizes quentes bem intensas, de cor amarelo alaranjado.

Fresh, Ice ou Fraîche -

São usadas nos nomes dos perfumes para indicar frescor ou leveza:

Geralmente as versões mais leves subtraem as notas especiadas dos perfumes originais. Já as versões Ice procuram adicionar notas que dão a sensação de gelado, como a menta ou mesmo o que a indústria chama de icy notes (notas geladas).

Para entender como um perfume se torna quimicamente mais fresco, vamos analisar dois perfumes da marca Chanel: Chance e Chance Eau Fraîche. A primeira, lançada em 2003, era um Chipre floral com notas de pimenta preta e limão na saída, combinadas com um buquê de jacinto, jasmim e íris, numa base de vetiver, patchouli, âmbar e musc branco. A segunda, lançada em 2007, se apresenta como uma versão mais vibrante, mais luminosa, que traz nuances mais frisantes, refrescantes e verdes. Notas de saída de cidra substituíram a picância da pimenta e trouxeram o efeito frizz; notas de íris foram subtraídas e o acorde ficou somente com as notas de coração de jacinto aquoso e jasmim. Notas de fundo chipre-amadeiradas, adicionaram o mogno. Já o frasco continuou o mesmo, somente a cor verde substituiu a original.

Aqua ou L’Eau –

Geralmente essas fragrâncias possuem notas aquosas, chamadas de aquatic ou watery notes. Muitas vezes o yuzu, lótus e madeiras flutuantes compõem estes perfumes. Alguns perfumes também podem trazer notas salgadas e minerais que lembram o mar. Muitas marcas optam por fazer um frasco fosco, para dar a impressão de congelado, ou optam por uma versão da mesma cor, só que diluída, mais suave.

Para efeito de comparação, vamos pegar duas fragrâncias a Guerlain: Guerlain Homme e Guerlain Homme L’Eau. O primeiro, lançado em 2008, um perfume cítrico aromático, com notas de bergamota, lima, lima Key, pelargonium, chá verde, menta, gerânio, ruibarbo, vetiver, cedro, rum e cana-de-açúcar. O segundo, o mais novo lançamento da marca em 2010, recebeu a versão L’Eau, que apesar de manter o acorde mojito, vem com uma saída bem mais cítrica, com notas de bergamota e grapefruit. O perfume é mais simplificado, mantendo somente as notas de menta e gerânio no acorde de coração, e um acorde de base com notas de rum, madeiras e musgo. O frasco perdeu a placa sólida de metal e ganhou um vidro fosco, mais leve e que passa a idéia de frescor.

Light, White ou Tendre -  

São versões mais leves, suaves ou delicadas do perfume original. Geralmente as notas mais pesadas, mais acentuadas são substituídas por notas mais leves. Alguns perfumes recebem nuâncias mais cremosas, notas de arroz, notas leitosas ou atalcadas.

Flores intensas como jasmim, ylang ylang e orquídeas são substituídas por flores mais delicadas. Notas gourmets de baunilha, vanila e fava tonka também são suavizadas. Citando duas fragrâncias de muito sucesso da Dior: Poison e Tendre Poison. Assim como a fragrância, os frascos recebem versões suavizada, leitosa, transparentes.

O primeiro lançado em 1985, com notas de ameixa, frutas silvestres, coentro, especiarias, flor de laranjeira, rosa, tuberosa, cravo (flor), canela, âmbar, sândalo, opoponax e musc. E o segundo, lançado quase dez anos depois, em 1994, apresentou uma versão com notas mais suaves de gálbano, mandarina, pau rosa, bergamota, frésia, flor de laranjeira, rosa, tuberosa, sândalo, vanila, heliotrope e musc. As especiarias foram substituídas por notas verdes, para tirar o efeito pesado do perfume. As frutas intensas e profundas foram substituídas por cítricos, dando mais leveza ao perfume. O frasco que tinha uma cor profunda e escura em tom fosco de berinjela, passou a ter uma cor verde transparente.

Extrême, Extreme, High, Heat, Absolu, Absolute, Intense ou Elixir -  

Essas nomenclaturas estão na ponta extrema. São versões, como o próprio nome diz, mais intensas do perfume. São adicionadas notas mais marcantes, mais pesadas e mais sensuais ao perfume. Muitas vezes as versões em concreto ou em absolutos das mesmas notas, substituem as originais, com em J’Adore l'absolu, cujos absolutos e concretos foram adicionados para dar mais refinamento para a fragrância. Em termos de frascos, geralmente as versões absolutas ou mais intensas possuem cores mais fortes, mais escuras ou o frasco é mais rebuscado.

Exemplificando com perfumes da marca Dior, vamos analisar o famoso Fahrenheit e sua versão Fahrenheit Absolute. O perfume original foi lançado em 1988 como um floral – amadeirado – musc, com notas de mandarina, bergamota, folhas de violeta, noz moscada, cravo (flor) vetiver, patchouli, couro. O frasco em tons de vermelho e ouro tornaram este perfume um ícone dos anos oitenta. Sua versão Absolute, lançada em 2009, é menos floral, mais intensa e mais misteriosa. Mantendo as notas de violeta e couro, a nova versão traz as notas de mirra, incenso, madeira oud, notas aromáticas e notas orientais. As resinas tornam o perfume bem mais encorpado, mais denso. Já o frasco manteve as cores originais, numa versão mais escura.

Night, Nuit, Nocturne, Black –

São perfumes para serem usados a noite. São versões mais sensuais e mais misteriosas dos originais. Notas exóticas são adicionadas, florais mais sensuais e intensos substituem os florais delicados. Notas quentes aparecem para tornar o perfume mais voluptuoso.

Exemplificando com o famoso perfume da Calvin Klein Obsession, for Men lançado em 1988, com notas de mandarina, grapefruit, lavanda, cravo, coentro, jasmim, pau rosa, pinho, patchouli, vetiver, vanila e âmbar. A versão Night foi lançado em 2006, numa versão oriental amadeirada, com notas frutais de pêra, combinadas com notas misteriosas de artemísia e cardamomo. As notas sensuais de camurça foram combinadas com musk e noz moscada, para dar ao perfume mais sensualidade e calor. Na base o âmbar foi excluído. O frasco recebeu uma cor azul bem escura, quase preta.

Outras nomenclaturas adicionais:

Blossom – indica que o buquet floral é bem mais intenso, mais irradiante. Os frascos possuem mais flores ou cores mais rosadas.

Eletric – notas mais energizantes e mais dinâmicas são adicionadas. Geralmente os frascos aparecem em cores neon, como o rosa shock, o verde limão ou um azul cintilante.

Limited Edition, Privé ou Private Collection – edições temporárias e limitadas, que aparecerão nas prateleiras brevemente. Pode ser uma versão modificada da fragrância ou um frasco diferenciado, adicionando enfeites ou materiais mais luxuosos.

Sport – versão mais esportiva do perfume, troca as notas sensuais pelas cítricas, aquáticas ou fluídas. É um apelo mais dinâmico e mais jovem do perfume original. Mais casual, muitas vezes tende para uma versão mais aromática, mais verde e mais leve.

Pure – palavra adicionada quando o perfume apresenta uma nota pura ou muito intensa. Exemplificando, No Pure Coffee de Thierry Mugler significa uma nota de infusão de café.

Celebration, Gold, Platinum – edição de aniversário da fragrância, com embalagem mais sofisticada. Como as edições limitadas, também são temporárias.

         

+ Q Perfume Blog para Cris Arcangeli

Queridos leitores,

Como todos sabem fui escritora contribuinte na área de fragrâncias para o site brasileiro Cris Arcangeli (hoje blog Cris Arcangeli). Todos os artigos publicados no site antigo eram linkados aqui no meu blog sob o título "Em Português! + Q Perfume Blog avalia para Cris Arcangeli" e que ainda pode ser encontrado ao lado direito abaixo das novidades do blog.

Infelizmente o site antigo foi repaginado e os meus artigos ficaram perdidos e os links quebrados. Portanto a partir de hoje estou republicando todos os artigos aqui no meu blog para quer quiser reler ou ler pela primeira vez. Vai demorar um pouquinho, mas dentro em breve todos estarão linkados para vc!

Parabéns Cris pelo seu novo empreendimento!

Beijos a todos, 

+ Q Perfume Blog

Oliver & Co

This blog was on a pause for such a long time for one very simple reason: lack of inspiration. I could give many excuses like being very busy at work and with my projects, with my family, my company...but the truth is, they were always there, and I have always succeed to juggle with my time. 
Having a writer's block is a complete nightmare. You feel no joy in writing anymore. You feel obliged to feed your blog not to disappoint readers, as if it became an obligation, not a passion anymore. You feel that you are simply out of words. Blocked!

Perfumes are about inspiration, about emotions, and if you are not inspired, you don't have what to write about. Since I never had sponsors, or make any money out of this blog, I began to wonder if I really HAD to write anything, at all.

I went on a journey of reading past articles to try to relight that first sparkle. I opened my boxes of samples looking for a hidden treasure...I found some, but not enough to whiff me out of my block. I was really giving in when last week I opened my mail and found this amazing surprise coming from Spain: A DISCOVER SET (collection of fragrances) of the  ILLUSTRATED SERIES by OLIVER & CO.

OLIVER & CO FRAGRANCES

Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog

OLIVER & CO is a niche brand based in Madrid - Spain handcrafting fragrances and candles that are developed by self-taught perfumer OLIVER VALVERDE RISQUEZ, a young Andalusian who uses the process of abstraction to create his fragrances. As he explains so well in his also amazing website, the process is impulsive, where already-know formulas and preconceived notions are rejected. He relies only in his intuition and the high quality of carefully selected raw materials. The perfumes are passionate, intuitive and hip, where you won't find olfactive pyramids or a list of olfactive notes. They are indeed surprisingly radical and as I told him with smile on my face, they moved me. His passion brought my passion to perfume writing back. 

Photo Credit: Oliver & CO

I decided to dedicate the next posts to this amazing brand as a way of thanking Oliver for bringing the passion back to my heart, as well as thanking my readers for being patient and worried about me!
I will start with VETIVERUS EDP

TO BE CONTINUED...

A teaser to make you go MAD!

Continuing to post about Chandler Burr's opening, here are some exclusive pictures in loco. CB sent to me today via e-mail and we will have more to publish in the near future.

So thank you Chandler for sharing this special moment with me; and thanks to the photographer Ric Kallaher for the great images, courtesy of the Museum of Arts and Design.

I know you guys want some more...but hey! This is the first week of the exhibit...let's not spoil the surprise for the NEW YORKERS!

MAD NYC opens Chandler Burr's Scent Exhibition

In April this blog has announced on first hand the opening of Chandler Burr's Scent Exhibition at MAD NYC - Click HERE to read all about it, and click HERE to read more detailed information from the NEW YORK TIMES). The opening was scheduled for NOV, 13 but sadly, due to Sandy, it was postponed to NOV, 20 as he told me and as the NYT informs. The museum website gives a different date - NOV, 29th, so please call the museum to be sure of the date of the opening!

MAD Location

2 Columbus Circle
New York, NY 10019

info@madmuseum.org

212-299-7777

Museum Hours

Tuesday to Sunday from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm
Thursday and Friday from 11:00 am to 9:00 pm

The good news are: A beautiful catalogue is on the way and pre-orders can be made already!

The catalogue will be sold for $250. There are only 1,000 catalogues, so if you are interest, you should hurry! Members of the museum will get 5% discount only.

The catalogue will have 11 of the 12 works of olfactory art that will be presented at the exhibition— Only Chanel Nº5 was not included, but don’t ask me why – Chandler did not tell me.

We are also not sure if the catalogue can be shipped internationally, so this info must be checked by contacting the museum.

About the catalogue flacons - Each work comes in a 5ml vial.

I have received a preview of the catalogue, so I am posting here for you guys to have a general idea – one of more details might change a bit, according to Chandler.

Photo credits: MAD + Chandler Burr

The works included in the exhibition (+ Chanel Nº5) and in the catalogue are:

01 Romanticism

Jicky

1889

Aimé Guerlain

Lent by Guerlain

02  Abstract Expressionism

L’Interdit,

1957

Francis Fabron

Lent by Givenchy and Givaudan

03 Early American School

Aromatics Elixir

1971

Bernard Chant

Lent by The Estée Lauder Companies and International Flavors and Fragrances

04 Industrialism

Drakkar Noir

1982

Pierre Wargnye

Lent by l’Oréal International Flavors and Fragrances

05 Surrealism

Angel

1992

Olivier Cresp

Lent by Clarins and Firmenich

06 Minimalism

L’Eau d’Issey

1992

Jacques Cavallier

Lent by BPI and Firmenich

07 Photo Realism

Pleasures

1995

Annie Buzantian, Alberto Morillas

Lent by The Estée Lauder Companies and Firmenich

08  Kinetic Sculpture

Light Blue

2001

Olivier Cresp

Lent by Dolce & Gabbana, P&G Prestige, and Firmenich

09 Neo-Romanticism

Prada Amber

2004

Carlos Benaïm, Max Gavarry, Clément Gavarry

Lent by Prada, Puig, and International Flavors & Fragrances

10 Luminism

Osmanthe Yunnan

2006

Jean-Claude Ellena

Lent by Hermès

11 Post-Brutalism

[itals]Untitled

2010

Daniela Andrier

Lent by l’Oréal and Givaudan

The catalogue will also come with a booklet with 11 essays about the Artistic Historical context of the scents, written by Chandler Burr himself.

To pre-order yours, click here in the MAD link.