Friday, May 28, 2010

Pretty in Paris/Moulin Rouge 1889 EDP by Histoires de Parfums

BELLA PILLAR ILLUSTRATION
photo credit: Bella Pillar
1889 Moulin Rouge EDP by Histoires de Parfums - review
Launch: 2010
Perfumer: Gerald Ghislain
Olfactive family: floral-powdery iris
Olfactive notes: Mandarine, cinnamon, prune, absinth, rose, iris, patchouli, musk, fur note.
Olfactive notes by + Q Perfume: Mandarine, lipstick wax, strawberry syrup, cinnamon, prune, absinth, rose, iris, patchouli, musk, fur note.
Description by the Brand:"1889" celebrates MOULIN ROUGE, the Parisian legendary cabaret, a smell of feathers and sequins, sensual and vibrant, a trace elegant and powdered as a boisterous ode to feminity.
Description by + Q Perfume: LOLLIPOP, LIPSTICK, FURRY-FLUFFY, PINK&RED, FRENCH KISS
Sillage: Great
Fixation: Good
Rating:❤❤❤❤❤ Where:
❤❤❤❤❤ - Dancing in sweet clouds!
❤❤❤❤ - Better than sweets.
❤❤❤ - One more dance.
❤❤ - I rather suck a lollipop!
❤ - Life saver pleeease!!
1889 MOULIN ROUGE EDP BY HISTOIRES DE PARFUMS
Histoires de Parfums is a Frech niche brand created by French restauranteur-perfumer-epicurean-producer Gérard Ghislain. His collection of fragrances offers more than just perfumes, they tell stories. And 1889 Moulin Rouge EDP is a historical perfume and a celebration of the famous French Can Can Ball House - The Moulin Rouge, founded in 1889 and illustrated beautifully by famous French painter Toulouse Lautrec.
TOULOUSE LAUTREC
Although Toulouse Lautrec and the musical movie Moulin Rouge (performed by Nicole Kidman and Ewan Mc Gregor) and can can performances are mentioned by other reviews, to + Q Perfume Blog this is so obvious as saying water is wet!
1889 Moulin Rouge EDP by Histoires de Parfums is a pretty-in-Paris perfume. It is very Parisian and very pretty. It goes absolutely wonderfully with high heels, scarfs, berets, poodles, blasé looks and pink and red sweets and pastries.
Slightly naive, slightly teen, kinky, voluptuous, sugary and very very powdery. So powdery that furry-fluffy is the new concept I created to it. It gives you the sensation of holding a furry cat close to the face.
It starts with a delicious citrusy whiff of mandarines and an acid note of prune. A combination of scents that turns out to smell like lipstick. A waxy cosmetic smell of lipstick, which I have encountered only a few times in my life in perfumes. One that I recall right now is Amanda Lepore's fragrance, Amanda. But that one is a drag-lipstick bombastic perfume. 1889 is more balance, more feminine, less Lachapelle (if you know what I mean!).
photo credit: www.harpersbazaar.com
But still, a pink & red waxy creamy deliciously naughty lipstick! The kind of lipstick that make your lips shine and be wanted. Lips to be kissed. 1889 Moulin Rouge EDP is a red & pink - furry & furry perfume that makes you want to French Kiss (LOL!)!
The perfume has a syrupy touch of strawberry-cherry lollipops - the ones that terrorize mothers and dentists, usually given by hairdressers when you take your child to have a haircut - but THAT does not bring a notion of fragrance for children, the perfume does not bring any relation to children, but something extremely naughty and gay. Vibrant and cheerful. Very Paris-chic. I hate those perfumes with candy touch that smell cheap. This is NOT the case at all. It was designed in a very creative way to bring a certain aura to a perfume. The aura of cabarets and night life of gay Paris. (Gay as in fun, happy).
The rose and the iris bring the powdery touch of face powder and make up. A back stage note as mentioned by the brand. (Something like after the show at the boudoir...).
But you can profit from the delicious rose in solo. It does come out from the rest in a vivid and cheerful way, as if it was touched by a drop of orange oil. As the perfume develops I enjoy the ideas I associate to it. At some point it made me remember of a delicious animated musical for children called Gay Purr-ee, about a naive cat Mewsette, that lives the country side of Provence, and goes to Paris seeking for a glamorous life. She falls in the hands of villain Meworice, but is rescued by her two friends from the farm - Robespierre and Jaune Tom. The absinthe note gives the bohemian touch of the cabarets, and patchouli and musk gives the furry meow softness.
MOTION PICTURE GAY PURR-EE BY WANNER BROS
This motion was produced in the 60's and it brings a bit of everything nice of France - the French cuisine, the art of many famous painters, the sightseeing at night, the French bohemian culture...
So 1889 Moulin Rouge by Histoires de Parfums is a French perfume that suits every age and every style. Creative, chaming and super Mewsette - furry-fluffy, flerty, feminine, super naive, trés lipstick, trés chic and puurr -ée. Meaow!
Sample provided by the brand's PR services.

Monday, May 24, 2010

Rose Poivrée EDT by The Different Company

ROSE POIVRÉE EDT BY TDC
Launch: 2002
Perfumer: Jean Claude Ellena
Olfactive Family: Floral - rose
Olfactive Notes: Damask Rose, Centifolia Rose, rose berries, pepper, pink pepper, coriander, civet and vetiver.
Description by the Brand: A unique sensual rose, blended with warm peppery notes.
Description by + Q Perfume Blog: DELICATE, PEPPERY, CLASSY
Silage: Good
Fixation: Good
Concentration: Eau de Toilette
Rating: ✿✿✿✿
Where:
✿✿✿✿✿ - Perfectly reconstructed!
✿✿✿✿ - Brilliantly designed!
✿✿✿ - Should last just like every other rose bouquet.
✿✿ - Just another rose...
✿ - that was a rose?
As May is almost saying me goodbye, I am amazed how fast the landscape changed, how fast the temperature dropped this weekend, and how beautifully this week started. I felt so sick these last weeks that I almost missed what is considered one of nature's best gifts: to close the eyes, and fully capture the smell of roses on a sunny day of May. The fresh, soft, delicate scent, that only roses can produce, and once captured, transformed and translated into a sense of inner peace, of comfort and calmness. A simple gift nature gave to us during one entire month, that once in a while is also captured by brilliant perfumers.
In 2002 Jean Claude Ellena created a beautiful perfume called Rose Poivrée, for a Niche brand called The Different Company. A company founded in 2000, by Ellena himself, his daughter, perfumer Céline Ellena, and art director Thierry de Baschmakoff, responsible for the design of the flacons.
Constructed with two different types of roses - the Damascena rose and the Centifolia, Rose Poivrée EDT is one of my favorite rose perfumes.
DAMASCENA ROSE OR DAMASK ROSE
The opening of this perfume is very spicy. Little pink peppercorns are crushed and sprinkled on the skin, releasing a vibrant, warm and deliciously vivid fragrance.
The association of pepper and rose is not new. You will find it in many rose perfumes. It is a duet that perfumers know how to play. The secret is to know the balance between the two and the undertones to be added.
Here, the woody-fruity scent of the peppers receives a fresh flowery touch of coriander, slightly herbal and green. Coriander is Ellena's magical touch which brings life to dried rose petals. Reality and dream, life and death, recreated inside the same flacon. A fresh flower and its imposing beauty, enriched and embodied by the fragrance of hidden flowers, dried in the pages of a book. The concentrated tea like fragrance of a dried rose - the memory of a hidden love, mixed in a whiff of romance and freshness.
photo credit: Koshka
This fragrance does brings images of classy Ladies from the 1800, with their beautiful draped dresses, embroidered ruffles with pearls, velvety cuffs, wearing fancy hats with feathers and flowers. Ladies of a time where lovers had to wait for letters coming from distant lands. A lady from a time where passions and flames grew with the expectation of an encounter, or diminished due to the lack of the presence of the beloved person, during wars or long journeys. Something hard to understand in times of facebook, e-mails, on line communication and fast divorces.
I also picture sumptuous gardens of palaces, queens of France, exotic journeys to the far lands of Morocco...Grasse...But isn't all that too obvious to be an Ellena creation? I think so.
A little darkness, decay, animalic, pungent touch is to be revealed, and to unleash different senses. A touch of humidity, of wet dark soil. A note of root y, dark and dirty vetiver, with an animal, skin-gland like note. A blend of vetiver and civet. An unexpected new reality to an obvious idea.
There is sadness and the pain of the distant love in it, but it also has the joy and the fulfillment of being loved, of being in love. The perfume brings both comfort of having someone to love, and the energy of having to struggle for it. It mixes the vital energy that makes the heart beat, and the decay of moments that stayed in the past, dried between the pages of old books and hidden envelopes. Life and death. Vitality and lack of it.
DRIED ROSE BUDS
photo credit: www.teacuppa.com
As I write this article and take a glimpse of the last sun rays over the foliage, I think of nature and its cycles, and how these elements are balanced. I think of the month of May - fall in Brazil, where leafs are falling and decomposing; spring in other corners, bringing beautiful blooms and painting vivid colors to pale canvases. I also think of how nice it is to feel alive and healthy, and to be able to smile again.*
I think of Jean Claude Ellena and what a brilliant perfumer he is...and his ability to capture all that in one fragrance. I think of balance as the key word, and the way to reach it.
I think how I missed to write my articles and how I missed the beauty of perfumes.
* in case you don't know...I was sick almost the entire month...yeah...a real pain in the ass!

Monday, May 10, 2010

Vanilia EDT by L'Artisan Parfumeur - review

VANILIA EDT BY L'ARTISAN PARFUMEUR
Launch: 1978 (RIP)
Perfumer: Jean François Laporte
Olfactive Family: oriental - floral
Olfactive notes: lavender, ylang ylang, spices, vanilla, amber, sandalwood
Description: SENSUAL, WARM, RICH, FLOWERY
Silage: medium
Fixation: good compared to other fragrances of the brand
Rating: ❃❃❃❃, Where:
❃❃❃❃❃ - Outstanding vanilla
❃❃❃❃ - great vanilla
❃❃❃ - good vanilla, but I have seen better ones
❃❃ - cheap vanilla
❃ smells like something you would even not eat
Not sold by the brand anymore due to the fact that Vanilia EDT was discontinued.
VANILLA ORCHID ILLUSTRATION
Some curiosities about vanilla: It is a native plant from Mexico, from the orchid family, originally cultivated by Pre columbian Mesoamericans (wiki.). And in 1590 Hernan Cortes introduced it to the Europeans. Vanilla is the second most expensive spice after saffron, due to the quantity of labor applied to grow and treat its beans (seed pods) and it takes approximately 10 months for the beans to be ready to be harvest. Five types of Vanilla are offered in the market: Bourbon, Madagascar, Mexican, Tahitian and West Indian. And Madagascar is responsible for half of the world production of vanilla.
VANILLA ORCHID PHOTO
Vanilia EDT by L'Artisan Parfumeur was quite a surprise to me. One can expect vanilla perfumes to smell like something edible and very sweet. But not this one! This one is dreamy. You might be wondering why would I bother to write about a perfume that was launched in 1978 and it is even discontinued...first of all, I don't have to agree with the company's decision to discontinue this marvelous fragrance and second, because they launched in 2009 a new vanilla perfume - Havana Vanille. So you might want to have the previous one as reference. Not to mention that Luca Turin gave it a 5 star rate - which is not impossible, but rather rare.
It starts a little bit salty and mineral (wet pavement) - but this effect lasts for seconds. Once you breath, it fades away and it gives place to a diffuse flower note. Orchid - sensual, hypnotic. I loved the idea that the brand chose to explore the fact that vanilla is indeed an orchid, and moved away from pastries and ice cream and therefore, moved away from gourmet inspirations. This is a vanilla that can be very appealing to men. This salty side of it makes this fragrance possibly unisex. It has the warming touch that all vanilla notes provide. The closest thing I could think of, that gives me this warm salty impression, is milk or blood.
I do smell the spices mentioned by others, such as cloves and anise. But today I smell a tobacco undertone, not noticed before. It is a perfume that is constantly moving. Sometimes is woodier, sometimes it is saltier and very earthy.
This is not a fragrance that brings you the cocooning urge. It does not make you comfy and secure, but it has a tender touch. Tenderness is a concept that can be related to it. Perhaps this is why I chose (unconsciously) to wear on mother's day.
Luca Turin finds it vulgar and he calls it a great vulgar. He also says it is related to summer, tanned faces and banana split... I have to disagree. I don't relate to summer at all. I would never ever wear a vanilla perfume in a hot weather. It would strangle me. I see where the vulgar identity is coming from, but again...I am not a fan of vulgarity, I tend to move away from it, so I also find it hard to relate to it. In fact, it does not smell fancy. I would settle for lack of fanciness.
The amber y touch is really great - also it is very L'Artisan.
Nobody ever mentioned but it has lavender notes. How do I know it - I could smell it from far away. I made my father a 100% pure lavender perfume and when he wears it, he leaves the in the room the same lavender spectrum I found in this perfume.
So, there is this famous quote "Never change a winning team"...maybe L'Artisan was unaware of it...
I would love to smell Vanilia on Jim Morrison and his leather pants!

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

As bebidas da beleza de Cristiana Arcangeli - a Beauty'In

Alguns sites e revistas direcionados para indústria dos cosméticos já vinham em 2008/2009 mencionando algumas tendências curiosas para 2010. Uma delas que eu achei incrível foi a busca por formas diferenciadas de aumentar o consumo de fibras. A Coca Cola lançou a Coke Plus e a Coke Fiber - duas coca-colas formuladas com adicionais de fibras, minerais e vitaminas.
COCA COLA PLUS
Surgiu então uma nova era de refrigerantes que tentam vender a idéia do prazer associado a idéia de nutrição, hidratação e saúde.
Uma segunda tendência para o mercado de energéticos seria substituir compostos químicos por ingredientes mais naturais. Coisa que o Brasil conhece bem, afinal consumimos maracujá, açaí e outras frutas energética já faz um bom tempo.
A tendência mais revolucionária de todas é a dos cosméticos alimentícios ou beauty drinks. Bebidas e alimentos com propriedades cosméticas. Movidos pela idéia de que a beleza vem de dentro, oferecem produtos que prometem trazer saúde e bem estar, e consequentemente a beleza exterior.
Isso não é novidade, afinal de contas, todos nós sabemos que o consumo de gorduras, álcool, cigarros e açúcares reflete diretamente no rosto, no cabelo e no humor. Se vocês se entupir de chocolates e gorduras hidrogenadas, as espinhas vão aparecer, ainda que você já tenha saído da adolescência! Existe até um provérbio inglês muito antigo que diz: "an apple a day keeps the doctor away", ou seja, comendo uma maçã por dia você ficará longe do médico.
GLOWELLE
O que realmente é novidade tecnológica são as bebidas que nutrem a pele de dentro para fora. Glowelle é uma das marcas pioneiras no mercado das bebidas da beleza. Os produtos Glowelle oferecem uma grande quantidade de nutrientes botânicos, e extratos de frutas anti-oxidantes.
Dietéticas, as bebidas da beleza Glowelle possuem dois sabores naturais: lichia com romã e jasmim com framboesa. E são enriquecidas com vitaminas C e E, chás verde e branco e goji. Glowelle pertence a famosa indústria de alimentos mundialmente famosa - a Nestlé, e as bebidas estão sendo vendidas nas americanas Neiman Marcus e Bergdorf Goodman por USD 7,00.
BORBA - a linha completa - de fora para dentro e de dentro para fora
A marca Borba oferece 4 produtos com quatro resultados diferentes:
1)Para peles oleosas, um clarificante com romãs;
2)Para peles secas, uma reposição hídrica com lichia;
3)Contra o envelhecimento - um controlador e amenizador de rugas com açaí; e
4)Para firmeza corporal, um balanceador energético, com semente de uva e chá verde.
Os produtos são oferecidos em forma de líquido e balas.
SKINNY - sabor a toda hora
Skinny Water é uma marca de drinks da beleza que atua neste mercado deste 2006.
Com vários sabores, cada drink é direcionado para um horário do dia, ou seja, manhã, almoço, tarde, noite, e de acordo com resultados almejados diferenciados:
1) Wake -up - para acordar - com laranja, tangerina e cranberry + vitaminas C;
2)High Energy - para dar energia - Açaí, uva e bluberry + guaraná, ginseng, L- Carnitina;
3)Goji fruit Punch - para dar forma e fortalecer a musculatura - com fruta goji + D-Ribose + L-Leucina + L-Valina + Potássio + Cálcio;
4)Lemonade Passion fruit - multi vitamínico - vitaminas B, C, E, A, ácido fólico, magnésio e cálcio;
5)Peach Mango Mandarin - com antioxidantes; e
6)Pomegranate Raspberry - para controle do apetite.
Venda on line, no site da marca.
BEAUTY DRINK - A BEBIDA DA BELEZA
Aqui no Brasil, a pioneira e visionária Cristiana Arcangeli está lançando a sua linha de bebidas e alimentos da beleza, com uma marca nova - a Beauty'In.
Chamados de aliméticos (uma fusão da palavra alimentos e cosméticos), prometem efeitos imediatos e acumulativos. As bebidas são oferecidas em oito sabores:
1) pepino + Aloe Vera + limão - para purificar;
2) guaraná+ acerola + tangerina + laranja - para melhorar a concentração, o humor, para trazer foco e clareza;
3) am + maracujá + capim - santo - para equilibrar e recuperar os ânimos, em fase de TPM;
4) lichia + chá branco - para fortalecer as unhas e cabelos;
5) framboesa + açaí + blueberry para dar mais energia;
6) nectarina + chá vermelho - para dar alegria;
7) pera + chá verde + água de côco - para hidratar; e
8) hibisco + açaí + uva para rejuvenescer.
BEAUTY CANDY - as balas da beleza
E as balas de colágeno e vitaminas são oferecidas em 3 sabores: morango, laranja e framboesa.
A venda dos produtos está sendo feita num quiosque no Shopping Iguatemi - São Paulo e através de venda on line no site da marca.
Detalhe tecnológico - a tampa armazena o pó que só é misturado quando a mesma é girada, para que o uso de conservantes não seja necessário. A única a conseguir esse feito no mercado. Arrasou!
A verdade é que na palestra de Li Edelkoort, o tema águas ligadas ao bem estar e a saúde surgiu como uma tendência para 2010/2011(clique aqui e aqui). Porém elas já estavam transitando no mercado internacional, principalmente no Japão. + Q Perfume Blog apontou com exclusividade essa tendência aqui no blog, e mais uma vez, aponta um lançamento ultra tecnológico, e foi ontem à noite conferir pessoalmente, no evento maravilhoso que a querida Cristiana Arcangeli ofereceu, o lançamento do nosso produto nacional, que cá entre nós, vai dar de mil em todos já circulando por aí lá fora.
A japonesa Shiseido também lançou uma marca de beleza de dentro para fora, a IN&ON, e a fofoca do mercado é de que a L'Oréal e a Coca - Cola vão entram nessa competição, pegando pesado. Muita coisa nova está por vir no mercado da beleza. Aqui, eu chamei atenção para os perfumes com bases não alcóolicas e LeWhif, o chocolate para ser aspirado e não degustado.
Nada mais tecnológico do que controlar a TPM com Beauty'In e satisfazer a vontade de chocolate com LeWhif, sem engordar uma grama!
A verdade é que nada deve substituir as frutas, as saladas, os cereais, a água mineral, os esportes etc... mas a vida com alimentação diária balanciada e saudável, noites de sono bem dormidas, aulas de tudo quanto é prática esportiva e muito sexo, é no mínimo, para habitantes das grandes metrópoles, um sonho difícil de alcançar. Mas não é crime nenhum tentar melhorar o estrago feito com produtos high tech, não é mesmo?
+ Q Perfume Blog deseja a Cristina Arcangeli e sua equipe um tremendo sucesso neste novo empreendimento, e agradece a ela, pelo fato de dar a inspiração de criar um novo sonho pessoal e fantástico na área da perfumaria tecnológica: sonhar com a pílula-perfume, que perfuma de dentro para fora. Já pensou? Engoliremos a pílula, e após alguns minutos a pele exalará o perfume! Um luxo ultra-sci-fi!
Obs: apesar dessa editora escrever para o site Cristiana Arcangeli, a matéria partiu de sua própria vontade de promover as suas déias inovadoras, e de qualidade. Não foi comissionada ou encomendada pela marca.

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

AVON - Festa de lançamento - concurso + Q Perfume Blog prestigia a AVON

PATRICK DEMPSEY
Ontem a Casa Fasano estava bombando de celebridades e pessoal da indústria de perfumes e cosméticos. Com direito a tapete vermelho e paparazzis. O evento estava super E!
Mais uma vez a Avon arrasou fazendo uma festa pra lá de chique. Como não deixaria de ser, + Q Perfume Blog, o blog que realmente forma opinião, foi convidado para celebrar este momento de puro glamour.
Meia noite veio a grande surpresa - Patrick Dempsey deu o ar da graça na festa e veio promover a sua fragrância - Patrick Dempsey 2.
Tímido, falou pouco, sorriu bastante, tirou fotos com a multidão enfurecida de mulheres e jornalistas e foi embora.
A importância da vinda dele ao Brasil é significativa. No ano passado Patrick apareceu em video conferência ao vivo na festa de lançamento do seu primeiro perfume, o Patrick Dempsey Unscripted. Nesta, ele compareceu pessoalmente para promover o segundo lançamento que leva o seu nome.
+ Q Perfume Blog avalia este fato da seguinte maneira: A Avon investe pesado em marketing e prova que a venda de perfumes de massa está cada vez maior - nada de crise para eles! E em segundo lugar, que o Brasil mais uma vez mostra a sua cara no mapa. O poder aquisitivo dos brasileiros aumentou, e as vendas aqui são tão substanciosas, que o Mr. Hollywood viajou 12 horas para prestigiar a filial brasileira.
Os perfumes festejados ontem conjuntamente com o dele foram:
IN BLOOM de REESE WITHERSPOON
In Bloom de Reese Witherspoon - concorrendo ao FIFI AWARDS 2010, nas categorias - Best Packaging-Women’s Popular Appeal e Fragrance of the Year-Women’s Private Label/Direct Sell
U by Ungaro FEVER for her/for him - lançados no exterior em 2010
Eternal Magic - lançados no exterior também em 2010.
O Perfume de Patrick também está concorrendo ao prêmio de Fragrance of the Year-Men’s Private Label/Direct Sell - vocês podem entrar no site e votar nele! clique AQUI.
Concurso + Q Perfume Blog:
Saiba como ganhar um perfume Avon:
Entre no + Q Perfume Blog e deixe um comentário no artigo AVON - Festa de Lançamento - concurso + Q Perfume prestigia a AVON.
No seu comentário deixe uma declaração de amor para a AVON e pq você gostaria de ganhar um dos perfumes oferecidos.
Acrescente um comentário sobre o pq você gosta de ler + Q Perfume Blog e concorra a uma das fragrâncias abaixo:
In Bloom by Reese Witherspoon - para as mulheres
Patrick Dempsey II - para os homens
No final do mês de Maio, + Q Perfume Blog anunciará o vencedor que levará para casa o perfume.
Boa sorte!!!
P.s.: está não é uma ação corporativa da Avon, e sim uma retribuição voluntária do meu Blog ao convite feito para participar da festa. Não estou ganhando nenhuma forma de remuneração para fazer este artigo!
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