Vamp à NY EDP - Honoré de Prés - Fragrance Review for the Holidays

Dear friends and readers, as December is approaching it is time to start thinking of X-mas & Hanukah gifts and fragrances for the Holidays. This blog has received and researched many fragrances this year. Some have touched and enchanted my heart and soul. Unfortunately I wasn't able to review all of them, but every year near the Holidays I bring fragrances that have either different styles, different moods, or different approaches, so from now on you will be able to find at least one that will be a perfect gift for a special person in your life. It is one more chance to review those beauties on my desk in front of me!

Obs.: The ones that I have already reviewed and that I feel are a must this season, I will bring in a separate list. (One cannot re-review perfumes).

So,

Last April I brought Les parfums Bio, and the brand that stood out for its quality and creativity was Honoré de Prés (click here for the article):

The best was saved for Last!

X-mas recommended fragrance!

A Fragrance for a sophisticated, voluptuous, urban diva!

Honoré de Prés is a French Niche Bio Perfume Brand creating natural perfumes with a chic aura. By the hands of famous perfumer Olivia Giacobetti (creator of many perfumes for big brands such as L'Artisan Parfumeur, Diptyque, Guerlain, Hermès, Costes, and the executer of the amazing Idole for Lubin), naturals received a chic status of haute parfumerie. You will not find that Hippie - Woodstock - Indie patchouli-sandalwood smell in her perfumes. 

As artistic director of the brand Christian David explained to extraittv, Honoré de Prés has been developing fragrances with the perfumer Olivia Giacobetti who has moved to new York City, and its new collection of the brand, the "Eau de Parfum LOVE", has moved to New York with Olivia to explore the city, its alter egos, its ambiances and philosophies. The result of this relocation is a series of 03 fragrances called I love les carottes, Love coco and Vamp à NY. In fact, he oddly explained that they did not develop a concept, but the fragrances are rather a result of the fact that the brand flies back and forth to NY to work with the perfumer. Their monthly routine became a collection.
The fragrances are placed in a paper bag and presented inside a paper cup, style "coffee to go", an iconic object of the New Yorkers. According to Christian David they decided to put Honoré de Prés' fragrances in a very emotional place" for New Yorkers. The bottle is made of a thick heavy glass, with rounded shapes evoking a sensuality at touch.

Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog

Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog

Fragrance Review

Fragrance: Vamp à NY 

Range: EDP

Origin: France

Launch: 2010

Perfumer: Olivia Giacobetti

Gender: F

Type: Niche - BIO

Olfactive Family: Floral Tuberose - Vanilla

Olfactive Notes: Rum, Tuberose, Bourbon Vanilla, Benzoin, Peru and Tolu Balms. 

Brand's description: "Picks an entire field of nature, all the beautiful balms, all the heady ones as well as all the fragile and extend of New York voluptuous atmosphere...not a fake Vamp at all!"

+ Q Perfume Blog Description: WARM, SWEET, SENSUAL, PUSSYCAT DOLLS

Silage: Good

Fixation: Better than other Naturals

Rate:★★★★

Where:

★★★★★ - Most voluptuous Tuberose.

★★★★ - Naturally Sensual.

★★★ - Sensual butter!

★★ - Blood sucking bad perfume!

★ - Vamp but tramp!

Obs: Samples were kindly provided by the brand upon my request.

You can find Vamp à NY at: their WEBSITE /Collete/ Bon Marché. 

Could pair with: Songes by Annick Goutal

Rum -  dark, mysterious, thick, inebriating, a touch of Spanish sensuality. Very alcoholic with a molasses aroma, melting with another Spanish origin raw material - The Vanilla. Slightly salty, slightly sweet, syrupy, almond y-woody notes of Vanilla. I call it the Latino (Hispanic Americans) presence accord in a New York fragrance. Very unusual, rather unexpected and very dark, it brings the sensuality of Latino divas such as Jessica Alba, Cameron Diaz, Jennifer Lopez, Eva Mendez etc...

EVA MENDEZ

Olivia has previously explored the beauty of rum notes in Idole, for Lubin (check HERE for my review), combining it with bitter oranges peel and spices, and creating a warm round woody accord. Here the rum is also warm, but salty. More drinkable than edible, it brings an inebriating Rumba note of love encounters on the dance floor. 

Photo credit: profumo.it

Tuberose Absolute follows the swing of the hips, with a buttery sweet delicate Rumba move. Syrup gets thicker and more feminine with Tuberose. Hypnotic, sensual and voluptuous, Tuberose will bring more curves to the fragrance. It will lead you to a narcotic addictive trail of feminine allure. There is a sub note of Polynesian flowers. A trace of Tiare notes that will bring the aura of paradisiac islands of Tahiti. It is delicate gracious note of scented Tiare flower crowns.

The fragrance becomes a little bit more fluid and temporarily watery, but that perception of fluidity lasts very briefly. A caress of contrast with the deepness and thickness of the start. A whiff of lightness, a delicate touch of unfurling petals on the skin. But again, there is a undertone of coconut scent that bring us back to the latino soul.

Melissa Plastic Dreams

Curiously, Vamp à NY EDP will bring to all Brazilians, images of Melissa plastic shoes. The funky sweety hip note of tutti frutti bubble gum and jelly beans. It is a very urban conceptual plastic shoes that fit not only New Yorkers', but every fashionista. It is the catwalk of new York's fashion shows touch. Also known by Brazilians, curcuma (turmeric) spice note is present. (I explain: As we don't have the real saffron growing in Brazil, we use curcuma in our dishes). As previously compared with Idole for Lubin, Olivia also added a notes of saffron there. But in Idole, saffron added a very carrot like note. Here it gives a trace of earthiness with a delicate note of carrot, almost imperceptible. One has to smell this fragrance many times to capture this note. 

From syrupy alcoholic notes, to graceful fluidity, jumping to hip chic plastics, and back to the syrupiness balms of Tolu, Peru and Benzoin, this perfume has many textures combined. A fragrance that is a natural collage of many snap shots, of the many facets of one city. It is also a great fragrance for women wishing to have the diva aura. Women with determined personalities, high stilettos, cleavage and sexy contours. 

Sensual like the Latino American ladies, funky and sexy like the Pussycat Dolls.

For the Pussycat Dolls video, click here. 

Financial Crisis - Consumers behavior - PART II - fragrances launches for men

In our society, power to provide also means power to seduce, power to conquer and power to attract beauty. It is obvious that if you are ugly as hell and you are surrounded by models, either you are a Hollywood producer or a heir. Believe me, your wonderful personality will not do you any good, unless it comes with large sums of money. I am not saying here that all women are potential trophy wives or gold diggers. But the amazing women with long legs and shinny hair & smiles, the ones that look like top models showing in perfume-fashion-tv advertising, the ones that men usually turn their radar to do not value personality.

I have also mentioned that the loss of financial power did scratch men's self esteem. And when you don't trust your own power to seduce what is exactly that you do? You look for fragrances that come with this promise. Why? Because the guys in the advertising business did their homework!

As we continue our analysis of the launches of male fragrances for the last 2 years, we will find many relying on the fact that men are trying to recover their power to seduce. Find some of these launches here and regain your Casanova personna in one whiff!

VICENT CASSEL FOR YSL

For the advertising video where Vicent is spreading sensuality all over women, click HERE.

L'Eau de Issey pour Homme - Absolu Noir (2010) - "The sensuality of the black color"

La Nuit de L'Homme Le Parfum EDT by YSL (2009) - "Pure sensuality" of Vicent Cassel for you - bottled!

Salvador EDT by Salvador Dali (2010) - "Elegant, original, seductive as the dandy seductive Spanish painter"

Platinum Label EDT by Perry Ellis (2010) - "Completely addictive and endlessly seductive."

Patrick Dempsey II EDT by Avon (2010) - “This scent evokes the feeling of strength and intimacy you experience with the person you love”

VIP EDT by Usher (2010) - "VIP is a state of mind where smart is sexy and intelligence rules the day". "The fragrance exudes the confidence of a gentleman at easy in his skin."

Ambre Nuit Eau de Cologne by Dior (2010) - "Nocturnal seduction."

Elixir Azzaro pour Homme EDT (2009) - "Flaunts a message of intensity ans sensuality."

For Him Musc Collection EDP by Narciso Rodriguez (2009) - "A fragrance that balances sensuality, gentleness and sophistication."

Hot Water EDT by Davidoff (2009) - "A sensual water." " The fragrance of passion and magnetic charisma."

Attitude Extreme EDt by Armani (2009) - "A one hundred sensual perfume for men."

L'Essence de Cerruti EDP by Cerruti (2009) - "It is the echo of sensuality touched by elegance.'

Hilfiger EDT by Hilfiger (2009) - "A scent that is confident and playfully sexy."


Play Eau Intense EDT by Givenchy (2008) - "For men searching for sensuality and charisma".

Deseo for Men EDT by JLO (2008) - "My desire takes hold of me, I want her to want me, she is onto my scent. Lets desire lead you."

One Million EDT by Paco Rabanne(20080 - "Paco Rabanne is betting one million on the return of male seduction."

Amour pour Homme Temptation EDT by Cacharel (2008) - " A masculine alchemy for temptation".

Versace pour Homme EDt by Versace (2008) - "Mediterranean sensuality for the self confident man."

and the list could go on...but I think we have already enough to make a point, don't we?

NIR LAVI FOR PERRY ELLIS

Anyways, sexuality, the sex appeal, the power to seduce was always explored by the industry. Sex was always a tool for advertising and publicity(You can read the article about sex and perfumes I posted this year by clicking HERE), but these last two years it has been more intense due to the post crisis psychological and financial effects on men.

I must agree that when a man is smelling good (to my own subject opinion of what is good), I tend to think that he is "better looking", or that at least he has more sex appeal towards me. BUT, if I will see Nir Lavi in person and he will be sweaty and smelly... I can assure he will not look less gorgeous. In fact, I will not mind help him freshen up (LOL).

What I mean to say is, that crisis or no crisis, perfume will help the less fortuned. So why not to explore this fact when they have no money to offer as an alternative for the good looks they lack?

For Casanova 2005 movie with sensual Heath Ledger and beautiful Sienna Miller, click HERE

Financial Crisis - Consumers behavior - PART I - fragrances launches for men

The collapse of the Housing Bubble (2005 - 2006) was the start of what was called, the biggest global financial crisis since the Great Depression of the 30's. A liquidity shortfall in the US Banking system, resulted in the collapse of large financial institutions. The crisis developed in a fast pace and spread into a world wide economical shock. People lost their jobs, they houses and their wealth. 

Researches found that the fear for the future would have a great impact in consumer's behavior post crisis. Peter Cooper this year offered insights regarding emotional and mental consumers behavior towards the Global Financial Crisis, and the whole of marketing post crisis. According to him, consumers want to go beyond the crisis to a new reality.  In his research he found out that consumers are moved for more sophisticated emotions, a new morality and a new intelligence.[Cooper, J 2010, ‘Money can’t buy me love’, Market Leader, Issue 47, p30-33 (On-line Ebschost)]. Other trends have stated that the consumer post crisis is looking for simplicity. They are questioning their beliefs and attitudes. There is a growth of the sense of responsibility towards conscious consumption. The fact is, advertising now has a great window opportunity to recreate this new reality, to reinvent the new consumer's needs. And they are doing so!

Knowing that the downsize of societies' way of life causes stress, depression and a feeling of lack of satisfaction. The provider is no longer able to provide (knocked on the nuts and ego), wives that had left their jobs to raise kids, or simply because the husband was doing so well, are back to work to bring the dough  home. 

We are a society ruled by the power of money. Our lifestyle is base on consumerism. We purchase goods and consuming material in excess of our basic needs. In our society the upper class tastes, lifestyles and preferences set the standard for all consumers, therefore, the less privileged seek the lifestyle of the rich and powerful. They strive to imitate the rich, the celebrities and the icons. People identify themselves with the products and services they consume.
In a nutshell, what we lack is the object of our desires. What we had gave us confidence. What we don't have anymore brought us uncertainty, fear and lack of self-esteem.
You no longer live in that fancy upper side of New York, you no longer attend to all social events, you no longer find yourself surrounded by women or friends. The money is gone! The world is no longer in your hands.

How to fill the needs of these consumers? How are they thinking? What are the objects of their desire?
A good example of a twist to fulfill the needs of emerging realities is the new trend in beverages. Although energy drinks are still selling well, the new trend now is  anti stress drinks, stress relief beverages, drinks positioning around calming and relaxing. Consumers are looking for beverages to help enhance and uplift the mood. We need to calm down!!
So how does the Beauty market profit from this new reality? How does the market fight the lack of greens? By offering what you don't have but is desperate to conquer!!
According to Mintel in the beginning of this month, the new factor that is influencing women's decision in buying fragrances is MOOD. 54% of female fragrance buyer's decision is based on how she feels wearing the perfume.
So, you add one to another and you have the answer. We want to fill powerful again. We want to feel in control of our lives. We want to feel rich again.
The mass production industry of perfume in 2008 started to offer men power and self-confidence.

photo credit: imagesdeparfums.fr

Advertising seeking to increase and to persuade men to buy fragrances focused on power, money, recognition, success. Using crowd manipulation, brands used techniques to influence the desires. (Crowd manipulation is the ability to get what you want through attraction). If you want your social influence back, if you want your manhood back, if you want to regain your power - buy this/that fragrance!
Many fragrances brought strong messages by even bringing to the shape of the flacon elements associated to power (a gold bar by Pacco Rabanne) and to strength (metal bars for excercising by Biotherm and dumbel (by Davidoff).


Check here some of the launches of the last 2 years:


Force EDT by Biotherm (2010) - "The strength to achieve the extraordinary", "Live stronger".
Champion EDT by Davidoff (2010) - "The strength of Champions", "The fragrance for men who know what they want: to stay right at the top".
The One Gentleman EDT by D&G (2010) - "For refined gentlemen who are in command of every situation".
Bulgari Man EDT by Bulagari (2010) - "The scent for a sophisticated man, who is both strong-willed and creative".
True Force EDT by Avon (2010) - "Experience the nature's true force".
L'Eau au Masculin EDT by Lolita Lempicka (2010) - "water - the symbol of strength and purity is the source of inspiration".
Honor for men EDT by Express (2009) - "Dedicate to a bold, confident, edgy, raw man".
Only The Brave EDT by Diesel (2009) - "Brave is about seizing opportunities and making a difference", "Only The Brave boasts the determination and the strength to overcome adversity and make a mark".
Power DT by 50 cent (2009) - "Power is a way of life".
Attitude EDT Extreme by Armani (2009) - "Introducing masculine power with elegance".
IKON EDT by Zirh (2008) - "A distinguish fragrance for the confident and masculine man".
1 Million EDT by Pacco Rabane (2008) - "Gold represents power, wealth, luxury, durability".
I am the King EDT by Sean John (2008) - "to empower the modern man to take on the soul of a king and conquer his biggest dreams".
The most iconic video of this trend is the one by Pacco Rabane for the fragrance One Million EDT - click HERE to watch. Pacco offers you a bag of money, a sport car, a woman at the snap of your fingers!


Article to be continued soon, with fragrances that offers the regain of power to seduce.
Following the trend of seeking for simplicity, we will bring fragrances that offered a simple, relaxing, cool, easy going world.

Meanwhile, have fun with Liza Minelli and Joel Gray, in their amazing performance at Cabaret, with the song " Money Makes the world go around". Click HERE for the video provided by youtube.


For the lyrics, if you wish to follow it and have more fun:
Money...Money
Money makes the world go around
...the world go around
...the world go around.
Money makes the world go around
It makes the world go 'round.
A mark, a yen, a buck or a pound
...a buck or a pound
...a buck or a pound.
Is all that makes the world go around
That clinking, clanking sound...
Can make the world go 'round
Money money money money
Money money money money
Money money money...
If you happen to rich
And you feel like a night's entertainment
You can pay for a gay escapade.
If you happen to be rich and alone
And you need a companion
You can ring (ting-a-ling) for the maid.
If you happen to be rich
And you find you are left by your lover,
And you moan and you groan quite a lot
You can take it on the chin,
Call a cab and begin to recover
On your 14-karat yacht! WHAT!?
Money makes the world go around
...the world go around
...the world go around.
Money makes the world go aroung
Of that we both are sure...
*rasberry sound* on being poor!
Money money money money
Money money money money
Money money money...
When you haven't any coal in the stove
And you freeze in the winter
And you curse to the wind at your fate.
When you haven't any shoes on your feet,
Your coat's thin as paper,
And you look 30 pounds underweight
When you go to get a word of advice
From the fat little pastor,
He will tell you to love evermore.
But when hunger comes to rap,
rat-a-tat rat-a-tat at the window
*knock knock* (at the window)
Who's there? (hunger) oh, hunger!!
See how love flies out the door...
For, money makes the world go around
...the world go around
...the world go around.
Money makes the world go 'round
The clinking, clanking sound of...
Money money money money
Money money money money...
Get a little, get a little
Money money money money...
Mark, a yen, a buck or a pound,
That clinking, clanking, clunking sound,
Is all that makes the world go 'round,
It makes the world go 'round! 

Marine Breeze - Part III - Comparisons

Salt crystals

Olfactive notes to compare:

Acqua di Sale EDP by Profumum Roma: salt on skin, myrtle, cedar wood, marine algae.

The sexiest, the sweetest, the most provocative, most gentle woodiness.

Exquisite note: Myrtle + salt

PRICE: USD240/100ML AT LUCKYSCENT

Fleurs de Sel EDP by Miller Harris: Red Thyme, coriander, angelica, rosemary, sage, iris, narcissus, rose, ambrette, bark, vetiver, moss and leather.

Greener, most leathery,  most smokey, most relaxing, most mellow-creamy, most beautiful dry down, best fixation, strongest silage.

Exquisite note: soy bean + leather

PRICE: 110/100ML AT MILLER HARRIS WEBSITE

Sel de Vetiver EDP by TDC: Grapefruit, Haitian Vetiver, patchouli, cardamom, geranium, ylang ylang, iris, liveche.

Most earthy, less sunnier, most powdery, most spicy, most carnal, most lustful, most buttery.

Exquisite note: Haitian Vetiver + cardamom

PRICE: USD175/90ML AT LUCKYSCENT OR USD195/3oz AT AEDES DE VENUSTAS

Sel Marin EDP by Heeley: Lemon, Sicilian bergamot, sea salt, sea weed, vetiver, birch, cedar.

Fresher, most delicate, most citrusy start, less diffuse, most discrete, most gourmet. 

Exquisite note: Egg white foam+ sea weed+salty melon = sushi 

PRICE: USD150/100ML AT LUCKYSCENT OR USD148/100ML AT BARNEY'S NY

Cote D'Amour EDP by L'Artisan Parfumeur: green tangerine, pink grapefruit, rosemary, dune immortele, cypress, gorge blossom, rose, broom, heather.

Most sunnier, most mineral first impact, most natural, worst fixation 

Exquisite note: ALL OF THEM ARE!

PRICE: EU128/250ML AT VITTORIA PROFUMI OR USD155/8.4 oz AT BARNEY'S NY


And the winner is....

Click here for the most beautiful song about the sea, LA MER by Jacques Trenet.

SEL MARINE EDP BY HEELY - MARINE BREEZE PART II

SEL MARINE EDP BY HEELEY

photocredit: Heeley

Launch: 2008

Perfumer: James Heeley

Origin: France

Olfactive Family: Marine

Gender: Both genders can wear it.

Olfactive Notes: Lemon, bergamot, sea salt, sea weed, vetiver, birch, cedar.

Description by the Brand: "A refreshing and striking note of lemon will fade to reveal an aquatic green note, while vetiver and light drift woods of cedar and birch dry slowly in the sand and salty sea air."

Inspiration: Bo Derek "10"/Kelly Slater and Sundance Kid

Description by + Q Perfume Blog: SALTY, FRESH, MINERAL, SUSHI, FLOWERY, minty, spicy.

Rate: ♆♆♆♆, where: 

♆♆♆♆♆ - Complete nautilus experience.

♆♆♆♆ - Marine delight.

♆♆♆ - I would visit this beach, but not really buy a house there!

♆♆ - can we visit another seashore?

♆ - pure brine sauerkraut?

Silage: Good at first, tuned down later.

Fixation: Good

When to wear: Very versatile, can be a fragrance for every occasion and season.

Could pair with: Prends Garde à Toi EDP by Ego Facto.

You can find Heeley fragrances at their website, clcik on the name HEELEY.

From Luca Turin, author of Perfumes The Guide -  Fall 2008: "Sel Marin (Heeley) ★★★★ salty vetiver $$$ We’ve seen this fresh-salty, bracingly marine idea of citrus, helional and vetiver before, notably in Diptyque’s Virgilio and Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel, but in truth I think this iteration is the best so far. LT". From Chandler Burr - Scent Notes NYT - May 11, 2010: "James Heeley’s Sel Marin (Marine Salt) succeeds in distilling the scent of the ocean’s salty green brine, while infusing it with the light of the clear blue sky above it. Exquisite." From Elisa Garbbet's article " On the Scent - the smell of money": "Sel Marin opens with a crisp, alcoholic note like cucumber vodka, then settles into a nautical citrus—mostly clean, pleasant lemon, with an oddly realistic saltwater thread that comes and goes, like the whiffs of sea air you get while eating lunch on a dock. I like it well enough, and would like it even more on a leather-faced Italian in a neck kerchief, but you’ll never catch me spending this much on wearable club soda."

photocredit:golfholiday.com

Utterly Hip, remarkably seaweed-y, oddly reminds me of sushi (that even triggers a mouth watering effect), and subtly spicy, this perfume is a salty gourmandise. 

The combination of salty melons and seaweed brought by Helional seems familiar. It reminds of sushi and yet it is not sushi. Wicked!

photocredit: benedicts.com

When Burr mentioned brine - it does have a trace of brine, but less sour than sweet. But I can relate to the brine idea too. I guess it is because I mentioned sushi and vinegar is also an ingredient added in the rice used in sushi. Although most reviews mention the saltiness of this fragrance, I find the crispy note of salt very subtle, very delicate. too delicate to my taste. But I smell salty sour melons, not cucumbers or cabbage - that is really another interesting smell.

I also found this come and go notes effect in the fragrance. It becomes very delicate after a few minutes on the skin, and when you less expect, you receive a freshly whiffed perfume sensation again.

photo credit: kmshayloft.com

The first whiff brings a green y note of recently cut hay with a touch of mint, than you have a sushi experience, followed by a delicate spicy brine and flowery combination. As oddly as it might sound to you, the fragrance is in fact very nice! The flower bouquet is very delicate, and does print a Heeley signature on the bottle.

Good as a Nobu sushi treat, I strongly recommend the experience!!

for Nobu click HERE

Marine Breeze - SEL DE VETIVER BY THE DIFFERENT COMPANY - PART I

Traveling to the beach means to me to be able to reboot my senses. Away from the city I can finally breath fresher air, enjoy the green view and listen to the amazing sound of the forest, of the waves breaking on the shore, and taste for a few days how simplicity brings happiness. The city behind us, the landscape changing from gray to green, the road that seems never to end, and the thoughts in my head just flying away like the white seagulls in the horizon.

 Photo credits: + Q Perfume Blog

As we travel through the Atlantic moist forest, the humidity gets denser and denser. There are more than 20,000 species of plants in the Atlantic forest and some are really breathtaking. The smells of the mangroves, the fluvial plains, the beaches, and the vegetation of the rocky coast  worth spending almost three hours driving through the Serra do Mar. 

Photo credit: zinasflowers.blogspot.com

I find it very relaxing to sit near the sea and watch the waves come and go, making every time a new pattern on the sand. The smell of the wet sand and drifted wood, warming up with the heat coming from the sun is also very unique, and combined with the salty cabbage smell of sea made me think of my salty fragrances reviews.

photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog

It is not a secret I have a weakness for this type of fragrances. I have already reviewed Fleurs de Sel by Miller Harris (click here for the review), Acqua di Sale by Profumum Roma (click here for the review). Two fragrances that are simple divine! I have also made a quick review on Coté D'Amour by L'Artisan Parfumeur (click here for this review). So it is time to add more fragrances to this library. 

SEL DE VETIVER EDP BY THE DIFFERENT COMPANY

Launch: 2006

Perfumer: Celine Ellena

Origin: France

Olfactive Family: Marine

Gender: Both genders can wear it.

Olfactive Notes: Grapefruit, Haitian Vetiver, patchouli, cardamom, geranium, ylang ylang, iris, liveche.

Description by the Brand: "For her second signature-scent Céline Ellena gave her interpretation of salt, an imaginary material in the creator’s palette, and worked with a wild and mesmerizing Vetiver to create this mysterious and intriguing scent, a bewildering combination of luminous crystals and the burning and wild character of Haitian Vetiver. Our createur-parfumeur worked with two types of vetiver of different extractions to keep only the lightest and most transparent notes of vetiver. The zest of grapefruit is stronger and the woody note is goldier. A puzzling and fleeting composition with salty and fresh notes coming from the grape-fruit and liveche, sweetened by the warm and sensual notes of geranium, ylang ylang and iris resinoide".

Photo credit: preferencesmag.com

Inspiration: “scent of salt drying on the skin after bathing in the sea”

Description by + Q Perfume Blog: SALTY, EARTHY, SEXY, FLOWERY, SLIGHTLY POWDERY (IRIS), CHIC.

Silage: Good

Fixation: Good

When to wear: Very versatile, can be a fragrance for every occasion and season. I love to wear it mostly to create a holiday sensation, or to trick my mood (uplift) during the rainy season.
Could pair with: Terre d'Iris by Miller Harris.


You can find Sel de Vetiver EDP and all The Different Company fragrances at Essenza Nobile by clicking on the links.


Sel de Vetiver has always interested me, even before trying the fragrance. I have read about it in Jean Claude Ellena's book (Céline's father and my favorite of all perfumers).
According to the book, Céline has been invited for a dinner where her friends served water with roots of vetiver, an Ethiopian costume. From this earthy drink she developed the idea of making a fragrance that would capture the salty idea of salt crystals being formed on skin, when salty water is heated with sun rays.
It starts with a sunny note of grapefruit, slightly sweet and very citrusy - very uplifting and diffuse. The salty notes of vetiver comes with the grapefruit which is surprising, because the idea of the perfume is not developed from start to the end, but already at the very first accord, with top notes of the fragrance. As you open the lid, you a inhale "beach", "body resting and drying on the sand from a dive in the sea", "sexy summer holidays" perfume. 

LIVECHE or LOVAGE
photo credit: WIKI

Liveche, or Lovage is a medieval name for parsley. This herbaceous plant is native of the Mediterranean region. The leaves are used as herbs, the seeds as  spice, and the plant as a vegetable. According to the brand's website, it brings the saltiness of the fragrance.
From there, only beauty comes along: Patchouli is combined to round the perfume and give a sensual 70's style. Cardamom brings a minty touch of freshness, and also a soapy touch, when combined with iris and geranium. Salty freshness with a touch of dirtiness; earthy tones is combined with a sensual flowery powdery accord. 
It is a pretty linear fragrance. Some notes are enhanced at times, but the overall idea stays till the very end. Vetiver mellows down, tuning down the earthy accent, but it is present till dry down. Geranium here is very powdery. Iris is very buttery. Ylang brings a warmer touch to the flowery bouquet, and contributes to the idea of a warm feeling on the skin.

photocredit: tips4health.com

This fragrance reminds me very much of the beach I travel to (Juréia), located at the north seashore of São Paulo, in São Sebastião (Saint Sebastian). I think it is due to the fact that around the beach, there is a forest and the mangroves. The smell coming from the forest is very earthy, very root-y. A combination of dirt and dead leafs. Siting next to the river and watching the landscape you can smell the combination of the fresh sweet dark muddy water and the salty breeze. 

photo credit:manualdebolso.wordpress.com

Sel de Vetiver has a crispy mineral note of salt, a tenderness of the powdery and buttery notes of the flowers, the uplifting sensation of grapefruit and the mysterious and sensual notes of patchouli, vetiver and ylang.

Although you can wear a year round and in every occasion, be aware of its power to seduce. It is after all a very sexy fragrance (sexy chic, not slutty).

For a nice experience click on the link:
Sound of the sea