Showing posts with label Hermés. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hermés. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

SMELL IN THE CITY - AN URBAN OLFACTIVE JOURNEY - PART THREE

If you haven't read the previous posts here you can find the links: PART ONE/ PART TWO.


My smell walk could have ended once I found myself under the lime trees. It would be considered an amazing olfactive experience of smelling scents in natura, after all I have encounter many sources of raw materials. Curious as I am and eager to find more beauty I continued to explore the park and its surroundings.


Location 07: Hortensias.
Even that they were beginning to bloom I caught one that had a hint of fragrance. Truth is that these flowers have a very delicate smell that is almost imperceptible. Slightly flowery, they are more beautiful to look than to smell ;(.



Location 08: Sweet Alissum.
Although Sweet Alissum is a border/edging flower from the Mustard family and said to glow in the dark (I have never seen it) it does not smell like mustard at all!
What a joy to the senses is to experience the sight and the smell of these beautiful little flowers! Originally from the mediterranean region they bloom beautifully in Brazil. And the scent? OMG the scent! Pure golden sweetness!
It is very floral - gourmand mixing notes of honey dew, honey comb and pollen. 
By far my favorite honey note of all flowers.



Location 09: Plumeria.
Most commonly known as frangipani these flowers are natives here, found in white, dark pink, light pink and pink and yellow.
Although it releases most of its scent by night in order to attract moths  (their pollinators), here in São Paulo you can smell these flowers from far. They are everywhere and right now it is an endless display of beautiful trees in the entire city!


I am surrounded by them. All my neighbors have at least one tree in their garden. My right neighbor has a tree that is almost the size of her house.
I smell these beautiful flowers from the time I wake up till I go to sleep feeling blessed by this gift from Nature.
It evokes a sweet tropical scent of sunsets at the beach and picnic under trees. It is a sensual and alluring fragrance reminding tiare and jasmine with fruity undertones. 
When I close my eyes under a frangipani tree and smell the scent of its flowers I feel elevated. It is a mythical experience for me.

In perfumery the fragrance of frangipani varies according to its extraction method.
The British brand Ormonde Jayne has a beautiful Frangipani perfume that I recommend to every person who likes the scent of this flower.



Location 10: Magnolia Champaca.
Here in Brazil they are not yellow at all. In fact they are dark orange, almost red.
Heady-floral, creamy, warm, exotic, Joy-ish (by Jean Patou), magnolia - like fragrance with a hint of a tea note and a apricot undertone, it is by far the most beautiful scent I've encountered in the park. 
Champaca is loaded of carotenoids, ionenes, jasmonates and indoles which are some of the main ingredients of its brilliant scent.
Although lime blossom was equally amazing somehow Champaca is more luxurious, more chic.
Finishing the smell walk in the park I could not be happier to close my fragrant experience with the scent of green mangoes!

Outside the park, near to the place where I parked my car I found 3 mango trees.


Final location: Mango trees.
Unripe mangoes, what a scent!
Luxurious, ethereal, fresh, green-ish floral, delicate with a fading metallic hint (due to acetone molecules). It is a perfume ready to be bottled and sold.
Just like frangipanis, the mango trees are to be found all over town. In my neighborhood I have seen many, but not with this quantity of mangoes.
Yes, it screamed JEAN CLAUDE ELLENA loud and clear!

In my next smell walk you are going to take a walk with me and discover why São Paulo in a way is similar to NYC and the versatility of cultural backgrounds and how they influence in the general olfactive experience. Stick around because it is...

To be continued...


Thursday, March 6, 2014

JOUR D'HERMÉS EDP REVIEW

I has been a while since my last post and the reason is that it has been very difficult for me to enjoy a fragrance in such a way that I feel a desire to share my thoughts about it publicly. There are so many perfume blogs out there... So many launches each season... Unfortunately time is something that most of us don't have in this same proportion. I don't. I am not a perfume BLOG-GUIDE "look for fragrances to buy" kind of blog. I don't run after the newest launches. So today for me to sit and invest time to review a perfume it must be really about something that touched me in a special way.

JOUR D'HERMÉS EDP

JOUR D'HERMÉS EDP did not catch my attention when it was launched back in 2012. Fact is that none of the latest launches of the brand were interesting to me at all, so I did not feel particularly enthusiastically curious about this one too until I read an interview with Jean Claude Ellena and the fragrance. I found the story surrounding it quite interesting.  He got me curious, but even so, not curious enough. At least not until I got to NYC. 
It was a very cold day and I was literally freezing to death. Macy's seemed a open door to a tour to hell but what the heck, they had heaters! Wondering around the first floor without any particular interest I passed by the Hermés counter and the perfume was there displayed.  I approached the counter without many expectations, but once I held that beautiful flacon with my hands I fell in love with it.

When you hold a very heavy perfume bottle the first thing that comes to mind is that  that you are holding a luxurious piece of art (concept developed by Pochet du Courval). 

A kaleidoscope contain tiny pieces of colorful glass in various shapes and as we look in one end, light penetrates in the opposite side creating a colorful pattern that changes every time we move the kaleidoscope. 
JOUR D'HERMÉS EDP is an olfactive kaleidoscope.  In this fragrance composition molecules combine and recombine to create a expression of femininity, beauty and light. The fragrance is also a combination of opposites. The heaviness of the glass against the lightness of the fragrance. Simplicity as a concept, developed by a very complexed technique of combining common components to avoid overleaping and redundancies. Naturalness and abstraction. A bouquet of flowers that you don't recognize separately as a composition of single flowers; instead, a multiflower effect. Outdoors and indoor flowers. Voluptuousness and bucolically.  Effortlessness and elegancy.

JOUR D'HERMÉS EDP is a beautiful Americanization of Hermés Frenchy perfumes. It is crisp, clean, airy flowery and somehow it reminds me of QUARTZ POUR FEMME EDP BY MOLINEAUX. I found the same clarity and loveliness that Chandler Burr finds in Quartz. The same citrusy flowery beauty.

This year the brand is launching Jour d'Hermés Absolu - a more voluptuous and more sensual version. Transparency here gain depth. Notes of jasmine Sambac, honey and apricot flowers were added to the original composition. Although Ellena did not want to list the ingredients of the original version he has already revealed the notes such as jasmine, gardenia, sweet peas, patchouli, musk and sandalwood. 

I must add to this trilogy the Perfume concentration of Jour d'Hermés launched in 2013 - IMO is breath taking - not because of its beauty. It is so strong, diffusing in atomic proportions that literally makes on breathless. I did not like it at all.


P.S.: Although JCE says Jour d'Hermés is not the feminine version of Terre d'Hermés smelling both at the same time you will find many common notes.They pair well.
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