Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Perfume Trends - fall & winter 2013 -14 - PART I


"A pleasure or sadness that is cause by remembering something for the past and wishing to experience again." (Merriam-Webster dictionary)

La Vie Parisienne

Nostalgia is daydreaming, fantasying, an escapism of the unsatisfying present. Personal nostalgia is a way of maintaining a constant sense of identity through changes or trauma. It only happens when the dissatisfaction with the current present time is great enough for someone to actually prefer an era or time period in the past. For some people is a journey to the past to identify what is missing in the present and move on; for some people is a way to live in denial. IMO we do find some positivism in nostalgia. I mean, people who tend to go back in time usually just kept good memories of it!
Once Bill Maher said something very interesting about nostalgia of the 50's. He said that if you missed the fifties or thought they were better times you are probably not gay, Jewish, black or a woman...I add open minded, creative etc...etc...
So, I won't pin point here why there is a global dissatisfaction with the world today. You have been reading/watching the news of the last 5 years, so you know it. The younger crowd will seek for the future - better days will come; the older will get nostalgic...easy to understand.

Perfume does evoke memories, no doubt about it. But perfume wearers of today were not young during the 20's, because they are mostly dead already! People born in the 20's are at least 93 yrs old. So the idea - not memories -  that we have of the roaring years is actually from movies, books, songs, fashion etc... We are told that those were times of fun, of prosperity (at least until the end of the decade), of social/artistic/cultural change and dynamism. A trilling time of Jazz, Art Deco and Expressionism.

According to Jonathan Gry (IFRA UK) for these incoming months we are going to see what he calls a retro-olfaction. Fragrances will turn to past to remind us of the past. A olfactory nostalgia. Expect to see relaunch of iconic fragrances, he predicts. Floral bouquets with powerful white flowers such as jasmines, gardenias and tuberose. This trend will also influence masculine perfumes with a trend called Great Gatsby - here we will see woody fougeres and colognes in full gear.
Following this trend you have a list here of some of the new or launched perfumes:

Zelda by Shelley Waddington
Attrape Coeur by Guerlain
Chanel Nº5 by Chanel
Mitsouko by Guerlain
Mito and Kiki by Vero Kern
Jean Patou Heritage Collection (Eau de Patou, Chaldée, Patou pour Homme)
Chevignon Heritage Collection 
M.O.U.S.S.E by Oliver & Co

1 comment:

Shelley said...

You are intuitive, insightful, and really nailed this current trend. Thank you for including ZELDA among such illustrious company.

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