Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Li Edelkoort - Trends - Winter 2011/2012

As you all remember, last year + Q Perfume Blog was invited by Marie Claire magazine to attend to the lecture of trend researcher Li Edelkoort. Forcasting the trends for 2009/2010, water and nature were the key element for what was about to be produced in the fashion industry.
In perfumery I wrote an special article (in portuguese only - sorry!) about how this trend would be seen or was already seen. After my article, many perfumes followed the trend, including niche (which it is a surprise to me) - we saw Ninfeo by Annick Goutal, Untitled by Margiela, L'Eau by Serge Lutens, many colognes, eaux fraîche, etc...
Perfumes were more fluid, many light flankers and so on...
So what is the next trend? According to Li Edelkoort: Birds!
We will continue our journey to connect with nature, but this time with the animals.
As she predicts:

“Our relationship with nature and animals is going to deepen,” predicts Li, whose informative and inspirational seminars outline the styles, materials, colours and marketing strategies that will be important in years to come. “I don’t think trends can get better than they are at the moment.”

On fashion the focus will be on blurred edges and visual texture, reminiscent of soft, yellow chicks. Fabrics will be soft, cuddly and tactile.

Swans - traditionally associated with dancing, will continue to have an influence: that means we will see more lace, tulle and fluttering knits. Water birds will influence the colour palette: expect to see blue, grey and green, with the pea coat taking centre stage as a key item of the season.

Urban birds - colours will be bleak, echoing concrete, and abstract patterns will dominate garments. The healthy, slow lifestyle associated with peasant poultry will also leave its mark: we’ll wear honest clothes in warm, deep colours and vintage prints.

More Inspirations: weaver birds and their nests, with fabrics made from hand-spun yarns. The coloured coats of singing birds will inspire us to wear sophisticated brights, while birds of prey will move us towards powerful neutrals, casual clothes and folk details.

Trends for Biomimicry and architecture beyond 2010, will focus on themes that once again emphasise our yearning for nature:

“My home is my nest”: weaver birds will inspire us – this time to construct “nests” for ourselves in which we use natural materials from our immediate surroundings. We’ll make use of irregular patterns in architecture and interior design, which will echo woven structures. Our nests will be counterbalanced by solid forms.

“My home is my earth”: The use of earthenware, terracotta and brick, already a growing trend, will remain important. We’ll match the colours of our buildings to our immediate surroundings and, as the planet becomes warmer, underground buildings will gain prominence. Irregular, organic forms will be popular.

“My home is my hide-out”: In an effort to reflect and respect nature, we’ll be camouflaging our buildings so that they blend with the natural environment. Our colour palette will be inspired by sandstone, slate, schist, lichen and honey, and glass and steel will be used as a way to reflect natural surroundings.

“My home is my landscape”: Interior landscaping will become a major trend. Taking inspiration from beavers, we’ll position our buildings so that it’s embedded in nature. The colours, patterns and structure of wood will gain importance.

“My home is our hive”: Due to the global population boom, humans are already becoming more interdependent. Architecture will amplify this idea of togetherness, and structures will be strong and geometric, echoing the hexagonal structures of bee hives. Rows will be embedded in design, and our colour palette will be inspired by honeycombs.

“My home is my cocoon”: Futuristic cocoons shapes will influence the architecture of temporary buildings, pavilions and tunnel tents. Structures will be slightly childlike and playful.

“My home is my web”: Spiderwebs are already fashionable, but this trend will be confirmed in years to come. Colours will be light, floating and sheer, and we’ll see buildings that are curtained with reflective materials. Textiles will be incorporated in buildings.

“My home is my armour”: Taking inspiration from armadillos, dark, metallic colours will become fashionable, and metal will become important once again. We’ll also start to see round, circular, spiral forms. Shell forms will come of age.

“My home is my masterpiece”: We’ll use colour, pattern, playful rhythm, cut-out metal and perforation to decorate our homes. Colours will be lively – even slightly crazy – and we’ll use fantasy to enhance the aesthetic of our buildings.

So how this will affect perfumery?

It is already here. Avery Perfumery - a new niche perfumery retailer opens a shop inspired by birds. Here the article I extracted from Basenotes site (bold letters by me):

Avery Fine Perfumery: New niche perfume store for London opens today

London has a new perfumery in Mayfair's Avery Street - the aptly named Avery Fine Perfumery. The store is described as an 'interactive perfumery' and has been designed by international designer, Lilian Driessen. Driessen has used a play on the word Avery/Aviary, to give the store a bird theme. The London store opens today, and an Avery is slated to hit New York next week. Avery uses state of the art, interactive technology to capture the imagination and stimulate the senses. The windows of the store are two large aviaries, each housing ‘perched’ fragrance bottles. Customers passing close to the windows will automatically cause the perfume bottles to emit a ‘virtual’ spritz of scent and even the most modest of movements will cause the mist to swirl and create a virtual imprint of the customer’s silhouette. The interior features an interactive birdsong soundscape with three distinct areas from tropical to woodland and animatronic flowers that will blossom with the stirring of the air. Instead of perfumes being lined up on shelves as expected, the range is presented on a beautiful rococo dressing table with shapely birds feet, where clients are assisted in finding their scent.
The store will carry luxury niche perfumes including a number of UK exclusives: a new range of candles from France – Hype Noses ; new scents by luxury brand Profumi del Forte from Tuscany plus New York brand Morgane Le Fay. Other names confirmed include Andree Putman, Boadicea The Victorious, Stilly, Carthusia, Profumi di Firenze, Nasomatto, Nez a Nez and Boellis.
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