ANTIGA BARBEARIA DE BAIRRO

Com os meus sinceros agradecimentos aos queridos Luis Pereira & Carlos Silva - Portugal.

Crédito fotográfico: Carlos Silva

Buscando trazer de volta as barbearias tradicionais, a marca portuguesa ANTIGA BARBEARIA DE BAIRRO é uma viagem no tempo e na história.

Para quem curte um pouco de nostalgia, imagine senhores de terno e chapéu, entrando numa barbearia. Cadeiras de couro, bancadas de mogno, chão de mármore quadriculado, pincéis de cerdas naturais, navalhas reluzentes...

As barbearias sempre foram ponto de encontro de homens de respeito. Lá, além de cortar cabelo e aparar a barba, eles se reuniam para se interar dos últimos acontecimentos da comunidade, da política e das finanças.

Fazer a barba era um ritual de prazer. Sabonetes cheirosos eram misturados com pincéis que acariciavam o rosto. Toalhas quentes preparavam a pele para um barbear perfeito. Navalhas bem afiadas eram habilmente usadas para definir um barbear rente e preciso.

Resgatar este prazer masculino é a promessa da marca, que desenvolveu uma linha de produtos com a qualidade e o luxo de outros tempos, dando um toque de modernidade.

O segredo do sucesso da marca vai além de seus produtos. Ela resgata o tempo em que o homem da cidade não tinha uma vida corrida e insana como atual. Eram outros tempos. Menos trânsito, menos violência...

Trazer um pouco desta tranquilidade para casa é fabuloso. Poder realmente parar alguns minutos do dia para dedicar a si próprio é fundamental. Este luxo não pertence somente às mulheres.

Pensando nisso, Antiga Barbearia de Bairro desenvolveu 03 linhas de produtos:

Antiga Barbearia, com sabão e pincel de barba. 

Coleção Príncipe Real, com sabonetes de 150g e 300g.

Coleção Ribeira Porto - sabonetes de 150g e 300g, pincel, loção e Água de Colônia.

A marca gentilmente enviou seus produtos a meu pedido, para o meu amigo português CARLOS SILVA que hoje apresenta para vocês em primeira mão a resenha da Água de Colônia Ribeira 

Agua de Colónia Ribeira

Sempre inspirada nas mais belas paisagens portuguesas, a Antiga Barbearia do Bairro visita mais um centro histórico de uma cidade portuguesa.

Desta vez o passeio leva-nos à bela cidade do Porto, mais propriamente ao seu centro histórico, a Ribeira.

Ninguém fica indiferente a tanta beleza, recordo-me bem de uma das minhas viagens até ao Porto de trem, quando saí da Gare de São Bento não queria acreditar, parecia que estava noutro lugar bem longe do meu país, parecia-me outro mundo.

O Porto com o seu casario cinzento, o granito, a arquitectura das casas… enfim, tudo era novo para mim.

Eu sou do sul de Portugal, por breves instantes me senti que estivesse num país que não era o meu, mas eu estava em Portugal na invicta cidade do Porto.

Deambulei pelas suas ruas e ruelas encantado com tanta beleza, acabei chegando a Ribeira, atravessei a Ponte Dom Luís até à outra margem e pude constatar com os meus olhos o casario da Ribeira reflectido nas águas do rio Douro, é com efeito um quadro de rara beleza.

Crédito fotográfico: Carlos Silva

Foi precisamente nesse ambiente que a Antiga Barbearia do Bairro se inspirou para criar mais uma água de colónia e toda uma linha de banho e barbear de grande qualidade. Tive a oportunidade de analisar o perfume na minha pele, a primeira impressão é a de um perfume intimista com um toque de tradição e modernidade em simultâneo. Gostei do contraste entre as notas cítricas e amadeiradas que são bem evidentes, uma frescura única semelhante à brisa do Douro.

Como em todas as águas de colónia sente-se logo de inicio as notas cítricas, a bergamota com a sua nuance florida, delicada e suave, em seguida a laranja amarga dá-lhe um toque mais áspero e seco. Sente-se bem aquele toque limpo, cristalino e fresco que é tão comum nas águas de colónia.

À medida que as notas evoluem para o coração o perfume vai aquecendo e fica bem mais caloroso na pele, notas como o cedro com o seu toque bem aromático e verde e uma nota de musk. O perfume vai evoluindo e torna-se bem contrastado entre notas frescas e quentes. No drydown uma nota de labdanum confere-lhe tenacidade, riqueza e dá ao perfume um toque único e masculino.

Resumindo um perfume elegante e intemporal que não deixará ninguém indiferente. Não há um só aroma, mas muitos que se misturam com a mesma mestria com que se envelhece nas caves do vinho do Porto.

Crédito fotográfico: Carlos Silva

Não fiquei indiferente aos produtos de barbear e de banho, sabonete, creme e sabão de barbear, e o clássico aftershave, bem refrescante e tónico. O pincel de barbear que lembra as antigas barbearias é mesmo um must agradável ao toque e bem masculino.

Embalagens elegantes de um amarelo a puxarem para a cor laranja que lembra a luminosidade do meu país. A Antiga Barbearia do Bairro já nos habituou à qualidade dos seus produtos, desta vez tenho que confessar que agua de colónia Ribeira é uma agradável surpresa para aqueles e porque não para aquelas que gostam de um perfume com carácter e qualidade.

A notícia agora em primeira mão também: a marca logo logo desembarcará no Brasil!!!

Visite o site AQUI

PERFUME PICKS FOR THIS FALL - TWO

As I am also packing my husband's suitcase, so I can't help telling you what I picked for him to wear. 

Some time ago Shelley Waddington has sent me a sample of one of her most elegant masculine fragrances: L'HOMBRE EDP, which I liked very much. No big news - I do love her fragrances...

The official notes for those who like to read leaflets: Fine aged malt scotch, spices, citrus, dark coffee, Sacred incense, black oud, mineral amber, Haitian vetiver, tree moss, aged patchouli and musk.

Well, if I were to review this fragrance alone, I must say that if you are a man of fine taste who enjoys some classic pleasures, like a fine single malt scotch, a good brewed coffee...and smokey-sensual fragrance...L'Hombre is just for you.

The blend is sensual, very elegant, classic and yet urban, with a fantastic amber-y note. Once the citrusy notes evaporates you get a caramel-golden, smoky complex scent that is at the same time both gourmet and very masculine.

Smelling it on my skin I close my eyes and I smell FALL.

I picture the two of us in a fancy crowded bar (happy hour maybe?). Don't get me wrong. I NEVER drink. I am not into bars that much. But when I do drink, I like a good scotch - and it seems that drinking one in a fancy New York bar will be a must.
You all know I am not very fond of incense notes - here you will find a very accentuated one. But what the hell, it all works and as surprisingly as it may sound, it works for me too.

Shelley has been presenting over the years fragrances that translate her passion, her elegance, her generosity and temperance.
I remembered that once I also said I am not fond of peaches, but Shelley's Pêche Noir is absurdly beautiful. So this is what Shelley does when she does her magic - She makes me love things I never thought I would!

I also have L'Hombre on my arm close to Opardu and guess what? They pair in a very interesting way! So I think this is the first choices for us: Opardu and L'Hombre!

To be continued...

PERFUME PICKS FOR THIS FALL - ONE

Central Park in Fall

As you hear the sounds of crunchy leaves, you know fall has arrived. The landscape changes its color to gray-ish skies, orange and red strokes paint the trees, and a brown-ish carpet substitutes vibrant greens. A bit melancholic? Some people might really feel this way during the season. Not to me. I simply love this season more than any other. The soothing sound of the wind rusting leaves; the cuddling warm sensation on my skin, provided by warmer clothes, specially wool scarves; the scent of deliciously hot teas, enriched cakes and cozy rustic meals; the idea that I can wear many kind of fragrances (from the most robust to the most flowery - after all, everything seams to match  Fall)...All that makes me smile! 

This year I am going to have the most special fall of all times. I will be in New York City!
I am counting the days to walk hand in hand with my husband in a orang-y/red Central Park. That is true my dearest readers. I will have the most romantic fall of my life.

While I am packing my suitcase I thought of fragrances to take with me. Every year many launches hit the shelves during the month of September. So, I am going to have many new fragrances to try and many to purchase.  But I am no different than any of you - I carry small samples of fragrances with me during my trips. Small ones to make room for the full bottles I intend to purchase of course, but as tiny as they may be, they are the crucial element to build traveling olfactive memories of the places I've been. Once I am back home, a little whiff of the perfume brings me back to where I visited.

The fragrance I chose for this trip is OPARDU by PUREDISTANCE.
Created by Master Perfumer Annie Buzantian, this feminine fragrance comes in a high concentration of perfume oil (32%), with a exuberant bouquet of carnations, tuberose absolute, purple lilacs, jasmine absolute, gardenias with a soft powdery background (more notes to be revealed in the first week of November)
The name and concept of OPARDU are creations of the owner of the brand: Jan Ewoud Vos. Inspired by the romance & opulence of Paris in the 20's, and by the expressive paintings of Kees van Dongen (in particular the illustration for the book Parfums, published in 1945 in a limited edition), OPARDU is described as romantic, opulent and seductive, bringing back the elegance and graceful beauty of the past. Also said to be a reinterpretation of a classic carnation.

The perfume is everything it is promising and much more. 
It is elegantly creamy, cozy and floral. It contains a liquid wish for adventures. A romantic wish to live life and love intensely.
I understand that there is some nostalgia going there in the perfumery world, where today 100s of fruity-floral bubbling perfumes are launched for the masses each year. A modern interpretation of a classic is very handy if you like to stand out a crowd. In this case, I embrace the concept 100%. But these days I am not nostalgic at all. Life in the present is too good to be substituted by idealistic ideas of what my life would be if I lived in a past era. 
OPARDU will follow me to bars, night clubs and fancy dinners in New York City. I will even dare to wear it during the day - in occasions that I will dress fancier. We will both get along perfectly fine :-)

I must also add the most fantastic thing that I just noticed: if you look again to the picture I chose of Central Park, and than look back to the OPARDU's advertising photo, you will see that all the colors match!! It can't be just a coincidence. I think the choice of OPARDU began to me just like it began to Jan - from an illustration. I unconsciously chose to try this fragrance to see if it would work for me during this trip simply by its colors. It inspired me to "fell" Fall. When I opened the vial and tested on my skin, I knew it would be perfect. I need this creaminess. I need this cozy way of saying "you smell fantastic. New Yorkers will spin their heads when you pass". "You will be in a romantic place feeling romantic, smelling romantic & seductively good!"

I think nothing would be more romantic than listening to BH's velvety voice while walking in the park... combined with the sound of the leaves falling from the trees, OPARDU, and my husband saying "You smell so good. I love you"...

s

DimiNICHEd? An approach to niche perfumery

Perfume Magazine has always interesting articles, but this last august issue brought one that really capture my attention - Paris correspondent Sarah Colton, wrote an article called "The New Niche" - where she explored the subject Niche Perfumery, bringing many opinions of celebrated perfumers, transcribed here only for the purpose of discussing this subject:

"Niche has become a misnomer. But the name sticks. Today niche is confusing. There are the small luxury brands and the exclusives of big brands, which are, of course, huge. When people speak of niche, they are primarily speaking of "luxury" or "exclusive" fragrances, big or small". (Patricia de Nicolaï)

"Niche is dead. In any event, niche is not niche anymore. Niche means small, but "Lifestyle", a new word for niche, is 65% of the market at Saks 5th Avenue. How can you be niche when you are big and international?" (Frédérick Malle, Editions de Parfums)

"Niche is still alive, it just got dull and mainstream." (Antoine Lie, Etat Libre D'Orange)

"Leave niche alone. Niche is where the future lies. The problem with niche these days is that there is real niche and fake niche, and ordinary people can't tell the difference between them." (Jean Claude Ellena)

“It used to be that niche was something underground-like, and known only by a happy few. Nowadays, niche means “different from the mainstream, and at the same time luxurious, expensive, and prestigious. But it’s not necessarily small anymore. Big brands like Dior and Prada are doing it too, though on a smaller scale than their usual products”. (Shyamala Maisondieu)

ROJA DOVE FOR MACALLAN

Photo credit: notcot

So, the question that has been disturbing me for a couple of months (almost a year I may confess) is the following: What is the definition of Niche today? Is niche to be considered a synonymy of luxurious and exclusive…If so, has it been diminished in that sense?

According to Oxford Dictionaries, NICHE means: A shallow recess, especially one in a wall to display a statue or other ornament; (one's niche) a comfortable or suitable position in life or employment; specialized but profitable segment of the market; and (as modifier): a niche market for quality food

The origin of the word NICHE is early 17th century: from French, literally 'recess', from nicher 'make a nest', based on Latin nidus 'nest'.

Adam Short, the co-founder of Niche Profit Classroom, has built over 300 profitable niche websites, (which bring him a 7 figure earning business per year) has given a very clear definition of NICHE: “In business, a niche is defined as a focused targetable portion of a market sector. It is a small group or market that looking for a specific product or service that is not yet being addressed by mainstream providers or suppliers. There are unlimited niches out there but they are not always obvious. Some of the niches could be so tiny and specific and might not ever in your thought”.

QFinace defines niche market as “a very specialized market segment within a broader segment. A niche market involves specialist goods or services with relatively few or no competitors. Customers may look for exclusiveness or some other differentiating factor such as high status. Alternatively, they may have a specific requirement not satisfied by standard products”.

Business Dictionary defines niche as ”Concentrating all marketing efforts on a small but specific and well defined segment of the population. Niches do not 'exist' but are 'created' by identifying needs, wants, and requirements that are being addressed poorly or not at all by other firms, and developing and delivering goods or services to satisfy them. As a strategy, niche marketing is aimed at being a big fish in a small pond instead of being a small fish in a big pond. Also called micromarketing”.

The website createyourmarketing.com teaches how to define Niche Marketing:

“One way to define niche marketing is to look at how it differs from mass marketing. Mass marketing is about selling to everyone, i.e. the masses. Niche marketing focuses on a specific segment of consumers. A niche can be defined by a consumer's age, gender, ethnic background, occupation, hobbies, and other interests. Even problems can be a defining characteristic. A niche can also be created by a need, a want, or a preference. It can be anything from being wild about the color green to wanting a water slide in their backyard. Some niches are defined more broadly than others. Teenagers and home-based entrepreneurs are two examples of broadly-defined niches. When marketing to a relatively broad niche even by a single characteristic, you still specify both who is, and who is not, included in your market. That means you can tailor everything from product features to advertising media to that specific market. A single product can be effectively marketed to different niches. The key is to direct a different marketing strategy toward each one, emphasizing the features and the benefits that appeal to that particular segment. In many cases, the same product features might be marketable to several niches. Even so, it's important to target each niche with a message to which they can specifically relate. Each niche, by definition, has its own special place in the market. Home-based entrepreneurs, pet owners, computer users, chocolate lovers and gardeners are all separate niches. Some consumers might belong to several of those niches. Once you define a niche, you are likely to find many other niches within it. Pet owners, for instance, include dog, cat, and exotic bird owners - and that's just to name a few. Even within each of those sub-niches, there are many others. Dog owners, for example, can be "niche-ified" by the size or the breed of their pet. Even a small niche can be very profitable. That's the beauty of the concept”.

From all these definitions we can extract some common elements:

-       Small

-       Specialized

-       Market segment

-       Specific

-       Marketing strategy

All leads to the common meanings that niche perfumery is 1) A specialized market segment in perfumery, or 2) A marketing strategy created to sell perfume (according to the needs, interests and wants of a group of people).

Sarah Colton mentions the fact that Jean Claude Ellena is to be considered the father of niche. I won’t discuss if this is correct or not in this article, but I went back to his book LE PARFUM (French edition of 2007) where he defines niche in chapter VII – Le Marketing (in English - The Marketing), sections I – Le marketing de la demande (in English – The marketing of the demand) and II – Le marketing de niche (in English - The niche marketing) to check what this master perfumer has said in the past about this subject:

He mentioned that brands like Annick Goutal, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Comme de Garçons, Diptyque, Frédérick Malle, The Different Company were the precursors of the awareness of the immediacy, the “déjà vus” or stereotypes of mainstream perfumery and its lack of surprises. According to him, these niche perfumers (he gave us this name in the book) could be only discriminated by the system of distribution they have adopted, which was mostly, to sell their fragrances in their own boutiques, with a set of criteiras set by them to understand their commercial approach. In section II he defines niche as a marketing strategy: a non-use of advertising support; the perfumers are placed in front of the perfumes (meaning you know who they are), and most of all: the perfume must speak for itself; it has to have a very strong identification, more olfactive. A great deal of attention is given to the name of the brand. In his opinion, a niche perfume is not only a way of distributing and selling perfume; it is also the way the brand shows its difference. He also mentions the service given to its clientele: the places where these perfumes are found are relatively closed places, where clients receive personal attention. Their satisfaction is crucial. The complicity is crucial - the mouth to mouth is the best advertising of these products. As per the creation itself, perfumers are free to create with an olfactive independence.

It all sounded nice when I first read it – but let’s be frank here Mr. Ellena – although I love your work and respect you so much, the niche brand you created with your daughter Céline - The Different Company – does not fit in these descriptions of niche. The fragrances are sold like any mainstream perfume, in many online shops such as LuckyScent, Aedes de Venustas and many others less hip than these 2, in shops worldwide with representatives in no less than 26-27 different countries, with the same approach any brand like Dior, Cacharel, YSL (you name any). By the way, advertised in full gear, just as any brand you will find in Sak’s, Sephora, or whatever department store you can remember now. And as for the personal attention – I never got that. Although the brand sent me all the samples they had – I never got a single e-mail from Céline, or husband, or Ellena. I was treated just like all the PR of mainstream brands treat me – general and kind attention to get an article published. I dare even to add - the ONLY niche brand I have ever related to so far, with a cold attitude...

ROJA DOVE FOR The MACALLAN

 50 vials aroma set - for whisky & perfume lovers

Photo credit: notcot 

But back to the question itself, what is niche? To me, the best definition of niche lato sensu is a marketing strategy to sell perfume. If the advertisers are using luxury, exclusiveness, high quality materials, or artistic approaches to sell perfume, this is all a matter of STRATEGY. Find the public you want to reach, find its needs, dreams and standards, and you will have a niche brand. In that sense, niche is not dead, misunderstood, or diminished (playing with the words – dimiNICHEd). Dull? Maybe yes, maybe no. But this is a problem of the minds creating them, the perfumers – not a problem of definition.

“There is real niche and fake niche” – I don’t think so. By definition, niche is niche. Simple as that.

I think Shyamala Maisondieu has given the most acceptable definition of niche. Maybe in the past, the segment in which some brands were focusing was really small, a few more demanding clients who wanted to stand out. But niche has developed as a concept. Today, with social medias such as facebook and twitter, “mouth to mouth” became twit to twit, or wall post to wall post/comment to comment/e-mail to e-mail. Perfumers today became celebrities, giving interviews in blogs, sites and perfume communities.

In the 21rst century there is no such a thing as NO ADVERTISEMENT. All brands advertise their products. Either by placing and ad, a post in a social media, giving away samples etc… we all know that. It is very naïve to try to sell to anyone that in fact you are not advertising anything. The minute you are telling on line that you don’t advertise – you have already set an advertising strategy.

In my opinion, niche is there, not dead, nor misused. 

As a brand, place your nest where you want, hatch the eggs to profit anywhere you think your public is. As a client, all you have to do is find out is what is the niche every brand (nest) is focusing on, and see for yourself if you fit in (or like the eggs the brand is hatching). 

I won’t accept that niche can be defined as expensive. That is absolutely ridiculous!

When brands such as Dior, Van Cleef, Chanel are launching exclusive lines, you might not find that a niche line – but in lato sensu it is – these brands found inside their clientele, another segment – another niche to explore. 
L'Artisan will be sold at Sephora? Who cares?

Purists or extremists, call them as you like, may say that niche is dead. I live that as a question mark, for you to reflect about it...

photo credit: Etat Libre D'Orange

NEELA VERMEIRE - NICH BRAND

What happens when a lawyer decides to leave what it is called a promising noble career, to pursuit her dreams? In my case, a lot of anger and indignation from friends and relatives. In Neela Vermeire's case, a new niche perfumery brand that is already a success among the perfume passionates' community.
Fact is that this year we have the great joy to celebrate not one, but two niche perfumery brands, rising from inside the perfume community. Kerosene Fragrances, by John Pegg, and Neela Vermeire Créations. The good news is, since they have been around us, they know exactly how to please us. Not only that, they have been in the other end of the table. Avid perfume buyers and passionates that they both are, they know niche pretty well. They know what it takes to stand out in a crowd of 1000s of other brands popping out like mushrooms after the rain.
And Neela Vermeire has it all: the heritage, the beauty, the kindness, the brains, the nose. And it is all reflecting in her creations. 
Besides the true love for perfumes, Neela took the wise decision to choose the famous nose Bertrand Duchafour to bring her dreams to life, materializing her passions, her memories, and her way to experience India history. 

Photo credit: Neela Vermeire

Neela Vermeire Créations offers us journey inside the history of India with 03 debut fragrances, which could be in my opinion, one more amazing route for the traveler perfumer. We all know that he has already navigated the Spice Route in the past with L'Artisan's Piment Brulant, Poivre Piquant, Navegar, Dzongkha, Timbuktu and Vanille Absolument. He has also travelled to Turkey, Seville, Paris, Arabia and Panama creating fragrances inspired by them. So Neela will be Bertrand's guide into this amazing exotic trip to India, and we will be offered 03 perfumes translating the three different Hindu concepts: Trayee, Mohur and Bombay Bling, and I will be delighted to review them for you.

Photo credit: Neela Vermeire

I start with BOMBAY BLING (the Chori Chori fragrance!), which is an explosion of colors and flowers. It represents the modern India and its Bolywood glitter. With fruity/juicy notes of mango, lichee, black currant, spicied by cardamom and cumin, receiving bombastic full blooms of white flowers such as gardenias, jasmines, tuberoses, combined with roses, frangipanis and ylang-ylangs, it brings us a voluptuous aura in a tobacco,wood base of sandalwood, cedar, white woods and notes of patchouli, and vanilla. Cistus notes are also included in this composition.

The first time I applied on my skin I felt like I have seen this before a long time ago. Something I smelled in the 80's or 90's. I was not sure. It contained an aura of Quartz by Molineaux I guess - but it is different. Grain de Musc described it as Giorgio does Bolywood. It could also have the bombastic power of Giorgio, but I dare to imagine that Duchafour, Neela and Molineaux travelled to India one day. Not in the 70's, but in the late 80's. She took them to the spice markets where they encountered many of the richness of this exotic land. They went totally wild with all the flowers, sandalwoods  and juicy fruits she already knew since she was little. They sipped teas and drank mango Lassi. They ate curries and chutneys. Inspired by all that and the colorful and loud India, they went to the lab later on and created a new version of the perfume, while singing "Chori Chori Hun Gori Se"...(remember that Bollywood-style movie with Marisa Tomei & Heather Graham?)

I must say that I don't see myself wearing golden bangles or saris...but a pair of high heels, a dress to kill, and a huge sexy smile on my face. And if I am damn lucky, I will transpire some of Marisa Tomei's sensuality. Fact is that this is THE ONLY bombastic flower perfume that I can say I really loved, and would wear without having the sensation of asking desperately for attention. It is loud, don't get me wrong, but in a nice way.