Vencedor do concurso anunciado

Parabéns Alexandre, você foi o ganhador do concurso Mandy Aftel promovido aqui no blog. Você ganhará um livro autografado pela autora, que lhe será enviado por ela.

O juiz convidado para escolher o melhor comentário achou a idéia do poema muito bacana!

Coloquei aqui então o poema para que todos possam ler também:

Quero descobrir nuances de aromas 
para que sejam como ondas
e encantem ainda mais

Quero que perfumes e seus acordes
deixem em mim ainda mais fortes
os desejos de amor e paz

Quero que "Essência e Alquimia"
funcione como um guia
e que traga alegria
como nenhum outro livro faz.

(Criei esse pequeno poema na esperança de ganhar o livro. Espero que gostem!)

Alexandre

Você receberá um e-mail meu logo em breve!

Obrigada a todos que participaram do concurso. Adorei todos os comentários de vocês, apaixonados por aromas e fragrâncias!

Última chance de postar comentário!

Queridos leitores, esta semana vou fechar o sorteio do livro da Mandy. Se vc ainda não postou seu comentário, sugiro fazer até o dia 30. Após, vou anunciar o(a) vencedor(a)!

Essência e Alquimia - Ganhe um livro de Mandy Aftel autografado!

Essência & Alquimia

Mandy Aftel

Vocês já ouviram falar do livro de Mandy Aftel aqui, e  eu já avaliei algumas de suas fragrâncias aqui e aqui.

Minha querida amiga resolveu nos presentear com uma surpresa: um livro em português, autografado por ela!

Leia a sinopse do livro por Rocco livraria do livro que dá uma boa idéia sobre ele:

Uma esclarecedora, excêntrica e fascinante viagem pelo mundo dos aromas. Assim pode ser definido Essências e alquimia, de Mandy Aftel, livro que faz parte da coleção "Prazeres e sabores", da editora Rocco. A obra explora todas as nuances dos odores e prova a sua incontestável – apesar de velada – importância através de argumentos pinçados da história, da psicologia, da religião e da memória olfativa, entre outros aspectos do universo humano. Nele, a autora também aproveita para ensinar aos interessados a misturar ingredientes e notas variadas a fim de criar deliciosos buquês.

A partir de uma vasta pesquisa, a autora, uma perfumista apaixonada pelas essências naturais, fala sobre o perfume de maneira quase divina e se considera, como ela própria escreve, "uma espécie de guardiã de uma arte sagrada e em extinção". Dona de uma biblioteca com mais de 200 livros raros sobre aromas, Mandy Aftel usa o conhecimento que tem de sobra para analisar a relação entre a perfumaria e a alquimia, dissertar sobre as conseqüências da criação das essências sintéticas em prol da indústria do consumo e contar a história do perfume desde os primórdios da humanidade.

"As essências eram artigos de luxo no mundo antigo, e as rotas de comércio se desenvolveram em parte graças à busca incessante por ingredientes aromáticos. Desde as antigas civilizações, caravanas e navios traziam canela da África, cardamo e nardo da Índia, gengibre, noz-moscada, açafrão e cravo da Indonésia. Preciosos demais para serem comidos, esses artigos eram cobiçados componentes para misturas aromáticas em rituais religiosos, para remédios e para perfumar o corpo. Já foi dito, com certa justiça, que o mundo foi descoberto no rastro do perfume", teoriza ela.

Além da parte teórica, Essências e alquimia contém um manual prático sobre perfumaria, que mostra desde os equipamentos necessários para montar um pequeno laboratório até a arte da composição, ensinando, por exemplo, a melhor maneira de combinar as notas para criar as mais variadas fragrâncias e como encontrar essências naturais de excelente qualidade.

Com uma linguagem simples e de fácil entendimento para os não-iniciados, Mandy Aftel discorre sobre a importância do cheiro de forma tão abrangente que consegue abordar desde o reconhecimento da mãe pelo recém-nascido através do olfato até os mais profundos estados interiores de consciência, emoção e fantasia despertados pelo perfume num homem adulto. Usando e abusando de citações de filósofos, escritores, poetas e pensadores, Essências e alquimia faz uma reverência ao perfume que pode ser resumida pelo seguinte pensamento de Marcel Proust em "Rembrance of things past", que abre um dos capítulos do livro:

"Quando de um passado muito distante nada subsiste depois das pessoas estarem mortas, depois das coisas estarem quebradas e dispersas, somente sabores e cheiros, mais frágeis, mas mais duradouros, mais não-substanciais, mais persistentes, mais fiéis, permanecem estáveis por um longo tempo, como almas, lembrando, esperando, ansiando, dentre as ruínas de todo o resto; carregam inabaláveis, na minúscula e quase impalpável gota de sua essência, a vasta estrutura da memória."

Como ganhar um livro: Basta entrar no blog, ler o artigo e postar um comentário interessante. Desta forma você está imediatamente entrando no sorteio. No começo de setembro vou anunciar o vencedor do livro autografado pela autora.

Chandler Burr - shaken, not stirred!

Two months ago I announced here the launch of a the project called Untitled Series, developed by Mr. Chandler Burr, and presented in the website Opensky (click HERE if you missed it). The basic idea was to "undress" the perfume of packages, labels, brand names and advertising, and give us the opportunity of a blindfolded experience. The perfumes are to be selected according to Burr's own expertise and taste (the explanation I got from him via e-mail exchange: "Burr will write a critical assessment of each including the brilliance of their structures, the quality of their materials, and their singular beauty, all characteristics he feels are essential to consider when selecting a scent".).

Since its launch in Opensky, a lot of online controversy is going on. Even Chandler himself fell into the trap of exchanging sour replies with someone in Katie Puckrik Smells (a perfume blog). 
I myself have clapped hands and also booed him since June. In order to explain why I have jumped sides a bit, and finally found my place in the other side of the fence, I am going to expose now what IMO is working out and what isn't in this project. Yes, dear readers, this blogger feels that something smells rotten in Denmark...

Let's start with the concept of the project. I think it is wonderful that he wishes to share with the public a new approach to fragrances.  Here I have already mentioned that this idea is not new, many did that before him.  Yes, many before him are curating what they call perfume galleries, perfume libraries or blindfolded sniffs. Perfumers, bloggers, owner of perfume groups in facebook, members of forums, you name it... But let's remind ourselves that Mr. Burr sat in his comfy chair in the NYT and was not mingling with fumeheads. He was not online. He did not know what others were doing or not doing before him. In fact, Honestly, I don't think he believes he is re-inventing the wheel. He simply proposed a game with rules, and people can join if they wish to, by paying USD50 to participate.
Bottom line: this project lacks creativity. It is a different approach, not a new one. So far, smells ok.

While many were cheering Mr. Burr (including me), Katie Puckrik stood out of the crowd and questioned:
"Now, does this seem like money for old rope? Or an exercise in meta-meta-meta? Burr's taking something that already exists and is rebranding it as his curatorial choice, à la Duchamp's "Fountain". And then selling it. I don't know if it's annoying or brilliant. Or both". One might do the same with an unlabeled can of Diet Coke:
"This is a beverage, created by one the world's foremost libation artists. It's not just a drink, it is fuel for the microchip revolution. Drinking this work of art places you in a pocket of well-being, where you feel uplifted, your essential you-ness enhanced. $50, please."

Again, I don't think Chandler, or Chazzy B, as she calls him, is in such an ego trip that he thinks he can put his name on a can of Coke and call it CB, and the rest of us, the stupid crowd, will run to buy it. I think he meant something different. I believe he is trying to intellectualize juices; what he calls work of art.
But then what happens? CB's PR, that now seems to be a team of people, probably told him that the best strategy was to invite the "enemy" to a debate, and turn her into a Burret cheerleader. Or at least play the charming one, so she will feel uneasy to criticize again on line. Yes, dear readers, as Chandler Burr revealed his E01S01 in Opensky broadcasting channel, there she was, beautiful, witty and funny as always.
So far nothing to twist the nose. A smart move...diplomatic I may say...does he play chess? Anyone? But the result of bringing Katie to the picture is where I have to say it stinks. He is IMO, literally using her blog, her communication skills and expertise in arbitration, to do the job he was supposed to be doing in the first place. People are going online to discuss his choices. People are going more to her, and not to him for the explanations. Basically, he offered you a deal where you would purchase an unnamed perfume, just because you would later, get to understand why he chose it, get to discuss the choice, the technicality or aesthetics of the juice, etc... Instead, you buy a perfume that you already have, you listen to them chatting for x minutes, exchanging small talks about the weather (Sorry Katie I don't mean to be rude to you, you are not the issue here), and finally, you get to discuss about it with strangers in her website (not in Opensky). People that won't even sign their names in their comments...Now, Katie executes her job perfectly, as usual. I sincerely hope integrity is untouched.
I also got very upset that he gave the pleasure of his presence there, not to engage into serious discussions about the fragrances, but to poke the guy who was posting his opinions anonymously. That was really the gesture that opened the door of the fence for me to step in the other side for good. Bad move for a chess player, or bad advice of the so called dream team of PRs???
Bottom line: the concept smells good, it is smells average; the execution thou... rotten eggs!
There is also a couple of things that really bothered me,and are worth mentioning. If you are selling "not a product", but an intellectualized experience, should you be doing it in a website that sells products and try to polish the sales by calling the sellers "curators"?
Opensky is bombarding my sorry soul 24 hours a day with their e-mails about new products, sales, etc...etc...just like Groupon! I mentioned in Katie's blog that in my opinion, if he opened a new department in such a hip museum and he is the curator, this project should have been launched under the museum's umbrella, not in such a lame website. That make us wonder if he is re-naming a can of Coke, and indeed selling it for a different price.
Bottom line: execution smells weird.
Finally, let's talk about the choices he has been making so far. I recall I said in Katie's blog that choosing Infusion d'Iris by Prada as E01S01 was really disappointing. The explanation of the choice made, very poor, lacking any expertise. It sounded to me that Prada was the only brand allowing him to do so, or the only ones he succeeded to convince at that time.
Bottom line: the first choice was not smelling good either. 
Check what I have said about this already HERE. I am loyal to my readers and my taste. I haven't changed my opinion since.

Second month approached, a new fragrance was picked and delivered. After its revelation, more fuzz, more controversies. Was the fragrance reformulated? People went to basenotes, not to him, to argue that. People went to Katie too...
This time the choice did not disappoint me, but the description/explanation of it certainly did it. I found that Mr. Burrs description of the fragrance, and later the explanation of why he chose it and why this fragrance is so special, is what I call "a re-whiffed" critic of Luca Turin in his book PERFUMES, THE A TO Z GUIDE. But hey! I have already purchased that book. 

Cologne (Thierry Mugler) **** steam clean $
I assume that, when he is not pretending to be French to save trouble, Thierry Mugler travels with a passport that says Forbidden Planet. All his clothes and many of his fragrances have that oversized-pentagonal future-past thing. which makes us want to lie back in your magnetic hammock and ask Robbie to bring you a purple cocktail. His cologne is that rarest thing: And like all good jokes, it's brief and to the point. Take an aromachemical that smells hissy like hot steam from an iron, and instead of putting a smidgen to it in a lemony-woody composition (fresh, bracing, blah, blah, yawn...), just use it almost by itself, accompanied by some pale floral-aldehydic notes. There you have it: triple-distilled essence of space-age barbershop. And it comes in a bottle big enough to last a Krell several days. LT - extracted from LT's book, page 182-3.

Chandler Burr's description:

E02 is a work of olfactory science fiction. It is not merely the morphing of the eau fraîche into a 22nd century form (which would be feat enough), it is the scent of a plant, a lovely curling vine, in a garden built in outer space. It is the green scent of the plant’s delicate green tentacles and its graceful leaves in the precious, pressurized air circulating in cool post-metal tubes, a perfect equilibrium of the heartbreakingly natural and the mesmerizingly artificial.

He uses the term metallic air-conditioning in the web conference with Katie/ air in cool post-metal tubes; Luca calls it hot steam from an iron.

He uses the term reinventing the eau fraîche; Luca calls it a future-past thing, space-age barbershop...and I could go on and on...

So I ask myself, why bother to spend USD50 in a fragrance (that was renamed Chandler Burr) + a rewhiffed critic that was published originally by another genius? 
That is it my dear friends, or as I used to say in earlier days, "I rest my case".

As much as I find Chandler a nice guy and I simply LOVED his books; I think the scent dinners and other off-bottle projects he does, works of art; as much as I embrace the idea of the Center of Olfactory Art ( MAD); and many other things he is up to these days I am so far, absolutely disappointed with this project called The Untitled Series. He had a good idea but he is failing to execute it right.
We have more months ahead of us. I wish him good luck with that. Meanwhile we can all sip Vodka Martinis. Shaken, not stirred. And since I mentioned that, I know I shook things up. But I had to do it. I can't continue to do it in somebody else's blog. It is not fair to jump sides of the fence here and there. One must come clean and decide.

As per Chandler, I think he should know I respect him and like him as a person a lot, but unfortunately I cannot say the same about this project SO FAR. I will continue to follow the series, but I will only address to them here if I find the fragrances he chose, special or interesting. Otherwise I will not comment here or at Katie's. It is not productive to criticize it over and over again. I made a point, and I hope I will be ABSOLUTELY WRONG FROM NOW ON! I SINCERELY DO!

Creed desembarca no Brasil

Enquanto nossos atletas desembarcam em Londres, os perfumes da marca inglesa Creed finalmente ficarão disponíveis para os brasileiros, trazidas pela empresa Excellence, desembarcando em poucos pontos de venda. Medalhas de ouro? Em London, necas de pitibiribas...mas o líquido da Creed, em Sampa city, vale ouro. Sim amigos, os perfumitchos custam em torno de R$1000.  Bom, medalha de ouro para a tributação desproporcional e absurdamente ridícula que incide sobre os perfumes importados.

Vocês querem avaliações?...vamos ver...quem sabe...se a rainha da Inglaterra requisitar...ou se o fofucho do Erwin me beijar a mão...

Erwin Creed, o herdeiro da marca

Violets Fragrances TOP LIST

A bit of History

True Violets have been in cultivation by ancient Greeks sicne 500 BC or even earlier. Greeks and the Romans valued Violets for its herbal properties, made wine from them and sweetened food. Using the flowers in love portions, the Ancient Greeks believed the Violets symbolized fertility and love. By the way people wearing a garland of violets above the heads credited they ensured warding off headaches and woozy spells.

Napoleon Bonaparte selected the violet as his signature flower. When Josephine died in 1814, he had her grave covered with violet plants and when he left for Elba he promised his confidential friends that he would return in the violet season. He became known as Corporal Violet. When it was known that he had landed at Fréjus, a multitude of women appeared on the streets of Paris selling violets for his friends to wear without arousing suspicion. The code was, ‘Aimez vous les violettes?’ (do you like violets?) and by answering ‘yes’ it was certain they were of the party, and not the confederation. Shortly before he went was finally exiled to St Helena Napoleon visited Josephine’s grave and picked some flowers from it. After his death, these were found in a locket he had always worn around his neck.

Photo credit: Syed Zain

A bit of Literature

Violets have made their appearance in literature and painting as symbolic of human emotions.  In Shakespeare's Hamlet, Ophelia, upon learning of the death of her father, Polonius, speaks to the queen in the language of the flowers, a convention much observed in the 16th century.  Her allusions are to the tragic event which has taken place and the emotions and attributes which are symbolized by certain flowers: rosemary for remembrance; pansies (of the violet family) for love; fennel for flattery; columbine for ingratitude; rue for repentance; daisies for faithlessness; and violets for constancy or devotion. 

In act IV, scene 5, she sings distraughtly while in the company of the queen:

“I would give some violets, but they withered all when my father died: they say he made a good end”.

Violets were so appealing that Shakespeare even dared to play Turin and describe the scent as “Forward, not permanent; sweet, not lasting”.

A bit of chemistry

Although natural violet is used, it is the discovery of the ionones in 1893 by Tiemann and Krüger that led to the substitution of the violet toned synthetics for the extremely expensive violet flower oil.

The ionones and methyl ionones, which were also discovered by Tiemann in 1893, are among the most important and versatile aroma chemicals. This discovery was revolutionary, changing the face of modern day perfumery as the ionones (along with their analogues and derivatives such as irones, damascones, iso E super, koavone and timberol) are currently incorporated into almost every fragrance.

The ionones range from a scent that is reminiscent of violets in full bloom to an aroma of soft wood overlaid with violet sweetness. The methyl ionones are stronger, with a more pronounced orris and wood tonality.

Methyl ionones played a major role in classic fragrances such as L’Origan by Coty (1905) and L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain (1912). Created in 1947 by Francis Fabron, Le Dix by Balenciaga is often compared to Chanel No5 with violets; the violets radiate from top note to fond. Other classics influenced by these chemicals include L’air du Temps by Nina Ricci (1948). In 1975, the radical Grey Flannel, created by fashion designer Geoffrey Beene targeted the male market (the bottle was swathed in flannel) and had a distinctive violet scent, a theme made truly popular by Dior’s Fahrenheit in 1988.

 “Roses are red, Violets are blue, Sugar is sweet, And so are you”

This is one the most popular short rhymes of all times. But historically, roses and violets were already enchanting lovers since 1590, with words of poet Sir Edmund Spencer.

So when Sophia Grosjman translated a long lasting poem to the world of perfumery, she ended up creating one of YSL’s most famous perfumes: YSL Paris EDP, said to be the first modern perfume to have a violet-rose accord.

You will find out that many perfumes of this article contain this duo in their compositions. In fact violet accords are pretty much limited in terms of combinations. 

Violets perfumes can be divided into the following groups:

The powdery, the green & the pulpy-woody

Most powdery violet perfumes have a combination of iris-rose-musk in violet accords. The greener ones bring violet leafs instead of blossoms, and a common duet with cedar notes. Pulpy-wood violet perfumes bring a combination of berries, black or red currant or plums, with a deeper base with vetiver and leathery notes.

I simply love violets, so no matter how limited violet perfumes can be, I will always find beauty in them.

Violet blossoms are found mostly in feminine fragrances, due to this powdery, iris-like scent, while violet leafs bring a greener cucumber-like touch to masculine fragrances.

VIOLET BLOND BY TOM FORD

Now perfumes!

Blanc Violette – Histoires de Parfums EDP- violet, bergamot, iris, ylang, ylang, star anise, sandalwood, musk, vanilla, rice powder. This is a powdery perfume. Very unusual, interesting. It is different than all others. One of the best I have tried.

Violet Blond EDP – Tom Ford – violet leafs, pink pepper, mandarin, Tuscan iris absolute and orris butter, Jasmine Sambac, Sampaquita, suede, leather, musk, veriver, benzoin. It is chic, elegant, feminine and alluring. It has the Italian fragrances approach. It could easily fit into Acqua di Parma line. I loved it. It is in my wish list of my future purchases. Beautifully crafted. As a violet perfume it is a bit disappointing. I would even dare to say that this is in fact, a jasmine scent.

Noir EDP – Tom Ford – bergamot, verbena, caraway, pink pepper, violet flower, black pepper, nutmeg, Tuscan iris resin, Egyptian geranium, Bulgarian rose, clary sage, opoponax, amber, Indonesian patchouli, vetiver, civet, vanilla. Eager to try.

Verte Violette – L’Artisan Parfumeur EDT – violet leafs, raspberry leafs, rose, heliotrope, cedar, iris, white musk.

Violette in Love – Parfums de Nicolaï EDT– Italian lemon, black currant buds absolute, raspberry, essence of Turkish rose, violet-iris accord, coriander essence, pink pepper, black pepper and musk.

Bois de Violette EDP – Serge Lutens – violet leafs, iris, grass, white cedar wood, musk. The woody floral character of the ionones is central to the composition

Voile de Violette EDP – Sonoma Scent Studio – violet, iris, rose, cedar, vetiver, violet leafs, tonka, hay, myrrh. For a complete review, click HERE

Wood Violet EDP – Sonoma Scent Studio – violet, plum, cedar, cinnamon, clove, sandalwood, violet leafs, musk. For a complete review, click HERE

Veloutine EDP – Technique Indiscrète – violet leafs, red berries, violet flowers, rose, leather, musk, salycilates. Very juicy, very pulpy, very refined. Distinguish and uncomplicated. I liked it.

La Violette EDP – Annick Goutal – violet flowers, violet leaf, Turkish rose.

Violet Empire by CB I hate Perfume – violet flowers, violet leafs, palisander wood, rosewood, elemi, leather

Violette Precieuse  - Caron – violet, violet leafs, orange blossoms, iris, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, raspberry, vetiver, sandalwood, nutmeg.

Insolence EDP – Guerlain – Violet, raspberry pulp, berries, rose, orange blossom, iris, tonka, resins. Not my favorite Guerlain, and I would even dare to ask ”what was that?” and complete with “I hope this was only a phase”.

More Violet Perfumes:

Black Violet EDP by Tom Ford

Violet Splash by Marc Jacobs

Violet Angle EDP by Thierry Mugler

Love in Black EDP by Creed

Violetta di Murano EDP by DSH

Violetta EDT by Penhaligon’s

N07 Violette by Prada
Violettes de Toulouse EDP by Berdoues Parfums Paris