Henriette Gabilla is said to be the first female perfumer in the History of Perfumery. Syrian by birth, she arrived in France in the beginning of the 20th century to open a fragrance house. She had started to create perfumes in 1890 but founded her fragrance house only in 1910 at 6, rue Edouard VII in Paris.
Inspired by François Coty, she has launched 86 six different perfumes in 12 years. Her first creation was called "Mon Chérie". She became very famous between wars and she sold her products world-wide.
Her early creations were presented in Baccarat crystal bottles, such as for La Vièrge Folle launched in 1911, Moda launched in 1918, Gardenia launched in 1923, Mon Talisma launched in 1925 and Tango launched in 1927.
Lalique has also created perfume bottles for the brand - Violette and Xantho were launched in 1925; Tout Les Fleurs. Lilas, Chinli and Glycine all launched in 1926.
She launched Folli Follie in 1912, and the World War I commemorative fragrances launched in 1919 were called Minuites Breves, Minuites Chevres and Minuites Revées.
Gaby was launched a year later (and bought by fragrance house Lubin) and Gaby Desiys in 1924. Her perfume Intrigue was launched in 1938 together with a special set presenting 03 fragrances: La Vièrge Folle, Gardenia and Longchamps.
Some Gabilla perfume bottles...
Xantho - 1925
La Vièrge Folle - 1911
What is curious to observe is that although Gabilla had a brand name, she did not have a logo. The name Gabilla was written in many types of fonts, depending on the year and the style that was in fashion.
If you think launching many fragrances, one after the other is a movement of our modern perfumery, you haven't heard of the amazing Gabilla! The difference was that in her times, fragrances had quality and style, and they came in exclusive artistic bottles signed by famous glass and crystal manufactures...
9 comments:
What a life this woman must have lived! She might have launched many perfumes but during her times a perfume had the price and importance of an haute couture gown.
On a side note, there is Greek jewellery brand named Folli Follie. Apparently they are big in China and Korea. I was always wondering how they cam up with this name...
I was fascinated to read about her...thing is that there is very little, I had to look for it in many sources. I loved the flacons...
Xantho flacon is fantastic.
Simone, you are so knowledgable, and you pay so much attention to detail in your wonderfully written and illustrated posts. You just never run out of ideas!
This piece -- and all the others -- are much appreciated.
XOXO,
Michael
I am blushing right now...
Dear Michael - coming from such an amazing writer and stylish man such as yourself it is REALLY a compliment!!
love love love
i like your way if writing thanks for writing about perfume
thanks
Thanks for this post. Have you seen this Dutch commercial for Gabilla perfume: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgpMUe6YiSg I think it's from the 1920s. It's from the National Film Archive in the Netherlands. The titles are Dutch, the idea behind the story is that the fragrance brings back memories of how the couple met, he lost her (horseriding) but found her again (boat) and he recognises her because of the perfume. Sweet!
Anyway, keep on blogging!
Not sure if my previous comment went through. I just wanted to bring this Dutch Gabilla cinema commercial to your attention: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgpMUe6YiSg
No darling, I haven't seen it, but thanks to you I will!!! Thank you so much for this link and thank you for your support!
XX
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