Thursday, December 16, 2010

The Christmas List - All kind of fragrances for young ladies & teens

Photo credit: art.com


This year I reviewed some fragrances that I called Pretty Perfumes
Some were unpretentious pretty & witty, sweet perfumes, some were more complexed and also enjoyed by mature women:

Miss Charming EDP by Juliette Has a Gun (click HERE for the review); 

Love EDP By Kilian (click HERE for the review); 

John Varvatos EDP by Varvatos (click HERE for the review);

Nuda EDP by Nasomatto (click HERE for the review); and

Chance Eau Tendre by Chanel (click HERE for the review)

and also in 2009:

PooPoo Pidoo EDP by Ego Facto (click HERE for the review)

The fact is... they will be great ideas for Christmas gift for younger ladies who enjoy wearing perfumes. 
Due to the fact that they are either niche brands or Chanel ($$$), they may cost more or can be sometimes more difficult to find. So,in order to be very democratic, lets search in the market for more pretty Pinkish perfumes that these ladies love so much:

Born Wild EDP for Women by Ed Hardy - fruity-floral - dewberry, cassis, peach
Parlez Moi d'Amour EDP by John Galliano - fruity-floral - bergamot, blueberry
Royal Desire EDP by Cristina Aguilera - fruity-floral - yuzu, blackcurrant + marshmellow
Peace, Love and Juicy Couture EDP by JC - fruity-floral - black currant, apple, lemon blossom
Guilty by Gucci EDP - oriental-floral - mandarine, pink pepper, peach
Boss Orange Sunset EDP by Hugo Boss - fruity-floral - grenadilla, orange blossom
Poppy EDP by Coach - fruity-floral - mandarin, creme brulée, marshmallow, vanilla
Pink Sparkle EDP by Kylie Minogue - fruity-floral - grapefruit, peach, champagne
Nina L'Elixir EDP by Nina Ricci - fruity-floral - berries, apple, caramel
Pretty Eau de Cologne Splash - Elizabeth Arden - fruity-floral - peach, watermelon, apple


...the list can continue kilometers from the starting point...so long that it caught the attention of Basenotes site, in an article written by Judith Brockless, who criticizes pinky aura fragrances. (I think she was never young...poor Judith! Did you always have a refined mature taste?)


So, not to fall into the category of pinkish-dumb fragrance, I strongly recommend for your young/teen lady 02 fragrances that are simply radiant nice:


Petite Chérie EDP by Annick Goutal - for a full review click HERE


Tommy Girl EDP by Tommy Hilfiger - an amazing fruity-floral fragrance with notes of apple tree, camellias, mandarin, blackcurrant, mint, honeysuckle, rose, lily, magnolia, sandal and cedar. Not new (it has been around since 1996), but excellent fragrance. Luca Turin is very fond of it, and I totally understand why!









Wednesday, December 15, 2010

The Christmas List - All kind of fragrances for men

Continuing to help with your Christmas list let's find the perfect gift for him.

Photo credit: Marie Claire

Classics are always a good choice when purchasing fragrances for men. If you wish to give a modern touch to them, there are plenty of options in the market:

Eau Sauvage EDT by Dior - a citrus aromatic, refined, clean, fresh fragrance that has been a best seller for many years now. For mature elegant men is a very good option.
One more option in the same fresh, elegant, mature genre is Vétiver EDT by Guerlain and Vetiver EDT by Creed. Both are excellent choices. 
Less classic and a great idea for someone that likes slightly edgy fragrances is Vetiver Dance EDP by Andy Tauer.

Colonia Assoluta by Acqua di Parma - a classic citrus aromatic cologne with a slight sensual touch of pimento, ylang, patchouli, white moss and balms. Should bring hapiness also to more mature men. Colonia Essenza EDC by Acqua di Parma is also a great choice if you are looking for more intensity.

Cool Water EDT by Davidoff - a classic marine fragrance that has been around since 1988 and it is usually very appealing. Men who enjoy this fragrance may also enjoy the newest masculine launch by Chanel. Bleu EDT by Chanel is another option if you want to impress. after all, Chanel gives always the impression of being more expensive and more chic. You can also try Sel Marin EDT by Heely for a salty hip modern fragrance. This one will be more appealing to younger men.

No.88 Cologne by Czech and Speake - a little bit of rose and geraniums in a very masculine perfume. A british accent for elegance. For a younger public you could try Rose 31 EDP by Le Labo. Rose y, spicy and modern, brings more ambiguity to the fragrance.

If you wish to indulge him with nocturne sensual fragrances:

Encre Noir EDT by Lalique - Every man of taste should have one. It is elegant, complexed, deep and very very sensual.

Les Nombres D'Or Cuir EDP by Mona di Orio - rockandrollers, bikers, lawyers and gentlemen in tuxedos will all enjoy this leathery beauty. I strongly recommend this fragrance this X-mas!

1740 EDP by Histoires de Parfums - a patchouli-leather combo to die for!

A*Men EDT Pure Coffee (for a complete review, click HERE)/ A*Men Pure Malt EDT by Thierry Mugler - they are both rich fragrances with warm, sensual, distinguish touches of beverages. Very addictive.

For daily use fragrance gift for him:

Swiss Unlimited EDT by Vitorinox - great choice for a sportive fragrance with a sensual touch  and swiss charm.

Cedre Blanc EDP by Heely - hard to find EDP range for men, so once you find, go for it! British elegance with a woody soft touch.

Papyrus de Cyenne EDP by Parfumerie Generale - a green aromatic chypre, that has its feet both into classics and contemporary perfumery. Also great to wear at night.

Hindu Grass EDP by Nasomatto - (for a complete review click HERE) - close to the skin, very discrete and fabulously relaxing.

Just because it is fun:

Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur - for a full review, click HERE - the circus fragrance.

Black to Black by Kilian -for a full review, click HERE - the Sherlock Holmes fragrance.

Bang EDT by Marc Jacobs - irony and irreverence is the motto of this fragrance. I am not promise any banging thou! But seems fun to me...

Wonderwood EDP by Comme de Garçons - click HERE for the complete review. The lumberjack fragrance.

Monday, December 13, 2010

The Christmas List - All kind of fragrances for women

We are almost in the middle of December, so it is time to sit and organize the list of presents one must buy to his/her love ones. You will have to face a major traffic jam to get to your nearest mall. You will have to face 1000 of stressed people doing the same thing you are, that is, shopping for X-mas. You will get punched, kicked, elbows on your chest, your feet will be pierced by other womens' heels etc etc etc... and in the end of the day, when you are safe at home, you will find out that you forgot to buy poor aunt Anna a gift!!! OMG!!! BUT, it is just once a year, and it can be fun if you see the full half of the glass. Choosing fragrance gifts can be very pleasant. If you love perfumes, not only you will enjoy thinking of the fragrances to match each person you want to surprise, but you will also enjoy buying them. If you are afraid of the crowds, you can order them via website or via on line shops Essenza Nobile for sure!) I prefer to go personally to the shop, and have a great time smelling these beauties (but this is me). Perfumery shops are not necessarily located inside malls. The streets are crowded with perfumery/beauty shops. Meet a friend for lunch, go together for a shopping tour in a nice neighborhood. Walk, breath the magic air of the holidays, enjoy. We don't need to be torture! Have fun!


Photo credit: Marie Claire

I decided to bring here some fragrances to help you get inspired. Some were reviewed here during the year, some were not:

Le 6 EDP by Ida Delam - very sexy, very warm, very chic. It is a delicious oriental. I recommend it to your wife or girlfriend. (click here for the complete review). A perfect gift for women above her 30's


1889 Moulin Rouge EDP by Histoires de Parfums - very feminine, fun and fluffy and very Parisian. It is an amazing powdery-flowery perfume with a pinkish musical aura. To any woman with a cheerful personality, at any age. (click here for a full review).


Idylle EDT by Guerlain - an exuberant Chypre for a feminine, glamorous and elegant woman. A fresher and more luminous edition of the EDP. It is simply beautiful! Any woman will love to receive this gift!! ladies from 25 up will certainly know how to appreciate.


Bois d'Iris EDP by Van Cleef & Arpels - a minimalistic woody-powdery iris perfume. Very creamy and milky and at the same time very feminine and calming. It is a woody perfume but with a very feminine delicate aura. It will be wonderful for this winter. (for a full review, click here). Women above her 30's will enjoy the most.


Magnolia Nobile EDP by Acqua di Parma - gardenias at full bloom. Velvety, elegant and sensual. Could be a nice gift for your wife, your mom, your aunt or any special woman above her 30's.


Tubéreuse 02 Virginale EDP by Histoires de Parfums - cheerful, gentle, sweet and very smooth flowery perfume. The buttery notes of tuberose, involved in cherries, white flowers and a beautiful woody creamy base.  Chic and hip, girlfriends will love this perfume. Young ladies will smile, including in her 20's.


Miss Charming EDP by Juliette has a Gun - a fruity floral fragrance that is very gracious and uncomplicated. Sparkling and charming, it will enchant young ladies from 15 yrs old to 30's. (click here for a full review)


If your lady friend is into glamour, allure and luxurious fragrances: Tiare EDP by OJ (check my last post); Pêche Noir EDP by Shelley Waddington; La Prairie's Life Threads GOLD EDP; J'Adore Absolu by Dior and Shiseido's Zen Gold EDP are also a great perfumes.


If she is into comforting fragrances: Eau de Delices Essence Orange EDT by Cartier; Coromandel EDP by Chanel (Les Exclusifs); Nirmal EDP by Laboratorio Olfattivo; Tolu EDP by Ormonde Jayne; Chanel Nº5 EDP Eau Premiere by Chanel; and Amber EDP by Mona Orio.

A lady fond of fruity syrupy fragrances will enjoy: John Varvatos for Her EDP;  Euphoria EDT by Calvin Klein, Amethyst EDP by Lalique; Acqua e Zucchero EDP by Profumum Roma; Petit Chérie EDP by Annick Goutal; and Miss Dior Chérie by Dior.


A woman who has a thing for dry, dusty, powdery, woody or tomboy fragrances will enjoy: Escale a Portofino EDT by Dior; Figuier EDP by Heeley; Premiere Figuier EDT by L'Artisan Parfumeur, Black Bulgari EDP by Bulgari; Mandragore EDP by Annick Goutal and Diptyque L'Eau des Hesperides EDC.




To be continued...





Wednesday, December 8, 2010

TIARE EDP by ORMONDE JAYNE - FRAGRANCE REVIEW

THE BEST WAS SAVED FOR LAST! 
X-MAS FRAGRANCE RECOMMENDED!
FOR A SENSUAL CHIC MYSTERIOUS LADY!

TIARE EDP BY ORMONDE JAYNE

Origin: UK - London
Launch: 2009
Perfumer: Linda Pilkington
Olfactive family: Chypre - Floral
Olfactive notes: Mandarine, sicilian lime, orange flowers, tiare, freesia, orris, jasmine, water lilies, ylang yang, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, moss and musk.
Description by the brand: "Like the woman who wears Tiare, this is a perfume that totally ignores seasons and the time of day, a perfume so artfully blended and infinitely refined... but with a dash of scintillating appeal."
Description by + Q Perfume Blog: CHIC, VELVETY, RICH, GOLDEN TREAT, EVA GREEN, BLACK TIE PERFUME.
Silage: Excellent
Fixation: Excellent
When to wear: Only at night, in special occasions, like new year's eve, weddings, anniversaries, bar mitzvahs, black tie events etc...combined with fancy, luxurious outfits and jewelry. 
Could pair with: First EDP by Van Cleef & Arpels.
Rating:♥♥♥♥♥
Where:
♥♥♥♥♥ - A blast of beauty, just like Eva Green!
♥♥♥♥ - I will feel like Eva wearing it.
♥♥♥ - Reminds me of Eva, but it is not really her.
♥♥ - I would wear only if Eva would buy it for me.
♥ - I would not waste my greens on this one.

You can find all Ormonde Jayne fragrances at their WEBSITE.


I should have reviewed this fragrance back in 2009. The mysterious story behind it is the following: First Linda did not have batches to send. Than she sent it to me and it did not arrive (???). Than she kindly sent it again and somehow I lost it!!! I was already convinced that it was not meant to be, when in 2010 I found my sample! A mystery that it is hard to explain. But it all ended well and I finally have it in front of me.
That said, let's explore this beauty!


Photo credit: duatravel.com


As the name suggests, Tiare was expected to be an exotic summer y fragrance, inspired  by Tahitian ladies, moving their hips and welcoming tourists with their large smiles. Exotic beaches with warm crystalline water and golden suntans...well... guess again! 
At the very first whiff I was back to the 70's, when perfumes were designed with luxurious raw materials and were not reformulated to fit IFRAs, SCCPs, EFFAs, etc, etc... Maybe it is just because Tiare EDP by Ormonde Jayne is velvety and sultry. Or maybe it is because it reminds me of Van Cleef and Arpels' 1976 fragrance First.




First was designed by Jean Claude Ellena, and according to the brand, to enhance sensuality and beauty of a woman. The top notes of First was: aldehydes, raspberry, peach and Hyacinth. Ormonde Jayne's Tiare is more effervescent, more contemporary, more fun.
Juice green notes of mandarine are combined with fresh acid notes of Sicilian limes. Linda's femininity is presented by a gracious combination of orange flowers. These notes bring roundness to the accord and has a statement: This is no ordinary Chypre! It does bring the alluring and the happiness of luxurious vacations in fancy Tahitian bungalows, but to me, top notes of Tiare EDP is like opening a fancy envelope and receiving an invitation to a black tie party.
In First EDP by Van Cleef, the middle notes were: Mayrose, Carnation, Jasmine, Orchid, Lilly of the Valley, Tuberose and Orris. A majestic white flowers' bouquet, so special and so expensive, that even Jean Claude Ellena has been declaring that today, he sees no need to use so many types of jasmine and roses to create beauty as he did back then. But  financial issues were less important in those days...
Ormonde Jayne's middle notes are also a declaration of luxury: white flowers are combined to pursue perfect blooming. Tiare and jasmine are combined with freesias, water lilies, ylang yland and orris. A seductive, hypnotic, velvety accord, with a glorious honeyed sweetness to finish it.


EVA classic

I cannot stop thinking of Eva Green! Although she has been being the face of Dior for Midnight Poison, she is too chic for such a dull perfume! She should have been the face of Tiare. Her white velvety skin, her lustrous dark hair an the intensity of her emerald green eyes are all there captured in Tiare. 

EVA the rocker

Eva is a beauty of the night. She is in real life the rocker-gothic type. Her persona is also presented in Tiare by its darkness. Although Tiare is very sultry, it also has a hardcore wildness implied. Tiare is a seductive spy (as Eva in Cassino Royale - a James Bond movie) wearing an amazing black tie gown, and red to kill lips! Tiare is also the enigmatic Miss G in Cracks ( with a vintage look of the 30's).


EVA vintage look


First presented a base of oakmoss, amber, honey, civet, sandalwood, vetiver. A butery, animalic, earthy chypre signature that captured my heart when I was younger. (First was my First perfume!)
The base of Ormonde Jayne's Tiare is developed with cedar, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, moss and musk. Less buttery, less creamy, more mysterious. 


So, just like Eva Gren, Tiare has a British velvety accent to die for!


Watch Sharp Eva Green in Cassino Royale by clicking HERE ( I know she was wearing Tiare!!!)









Tuesday, December 7, 2010

PÊCHE NOIR EDP - Fragrance Review for the Holidays

The best was saved for last!
X-mas recommended fragrance!


For a natural bohemian classy seductive lady.



Niche perfumer Shelley Waddington, know as the 'Carmel Perfumer' received the classic perfumery training in Grasse - France, and since than she has been developing her skills in Carmel (USA), where she has established her own studio. Her previous collection 'Carmel by the Sea' is an ode to her love for this region, and her personal journeys presented by 04 fragrances. Her newest collection 'Odssey' brings 03 olfactive themes: Makeda - in the honor of the Queen of Sheba and her love for King Solomon; Havâne pour Homme - inspired by the Tango; and Pêche Noir - inspired by erogenous zones of a woman.  
All her fragrances are very interesting, but I decided to start reviewing Pêche Noir EDP due to the fact that I was never very found of peaches (besides the peaches in Coco Mademoiselle and Petit Chérie that I do love). Yes, peach is not my favorite fragrance, but this perfume dances around the peach note and it is simply FANTASTIC!



FRAGRANCE REVIEW
Fragrance:PÊCHE NOIR 
Range:EDP
Launch: 2010
Perfumer: Shelley Waddington
Origin: USA
Type:Niche BIO-ethical
Olfactive family: Chypre - fruity
Olfactive Notes: Bergamot, Galbanum, Hyacinth, Gardenia, Peach, Rose, Jasmine, Orris, Muguet, Lily, Vetiver, Smokey Leather, Oakmoss, Musk, Sandalwood, Amber.
Description by the Brand: "The balance of light and dark, passion and intimacy, attainable and forbidden."
Description by + Q Perfume Blog: DARK, JUICY, SOPHISTICATED, BOHEMIAN
Silage: Medium
Fixation: Medium
Rate:★★★★
Where:
★★★★★ - A long sensual Bohemian night. 
★★★★ - A Bohemian night that could have last longer.
★★★ - A Bohemian night with little fun.
★★ - Is this what you call Bohemian?
★ - I want to forget this night!

Samples provided by perfumer upon my request.
Could pair with: 1740 EDP by Histoires de Parfums for him, to get a Bohemian couple experience!

You can find Shelley Waddington fragrances at her website by clicking HERE.

As Shelly explained to me, via diaries, e-mails, facebook messages, this fragrance is about erogenous areas of the female body. It is about the neck, that is a very sensual part to be revealed by the Japanese Geisha and about  the split peach, symbol of the female genitalia in the Chinese culture. 


For most foreigners, Geishas are experts in the erotic art. In fact, those women are called Yujus, not Geishas. Geishas were a symbol of the early history of Japanese entertainment. They were experts in the arts of poetry, dance, music and conversation. The hanamachis, or Geishas' district, were places where Japanese men would come to be entertained. If a Geisha decided to dispense sexual favors, that was her own choice, not her duty as a Geisha. As japanese women barely left their homes and their children, men attended the hanamachis to seek for fun. They usually held mistresses that were formal Geishas. So, Geishas did engage into sexual activities, but that was a much more complex process, not prostitution.


Girls with potential would have to attend to Geisha's school to develop her skills, including learning how to dress and make up. 
The back of the neck had to be painted with a white color, showing a perfect V shape unpainted, which somehow hinted at a female's private parts. Due to the fact that Geishas had to live by her own expenses and were forbidden to marry, they had to find a Danna, or sponsor. Her Danna would help her to open her own tea house at some point later in her life. So, we can say that the Geishas caught their Dannas by the neck (LOL).
And isn't it a marvelous idea to be inspired to create a fragrance?


Click HERE to see a video of a Maiko painting her neck - traditional style. 

But as I told Shelly, each of us have our own bag of memoirs, our own technicolor visions of a fragrance, and Pêche Noir to me has more of the bohemian aura/side of the Geishas. To review this fragrance I will relate to the fact that Geishas lived a 'bohemian' life, entertaining men, rather than the simple sensuality of their necks.
Bohemianism, as Wiki cleverly describes, is the practice of the unconventional life style, often in the company of like minded people, involving musical, artistic and literary pursuits  with few permanent ties. The American College Dictionary defines Bohemian as 'a person with artistic or intellectual tendencies, who lives and acts with no regards to conventional rules of behavior.'

Vicent Van Gogh 
Terrace of a Café in Montmatre - 1886

Smelling this perfume for the first time on my skin, I captured this dark, edgy, nocturnal facet of Chypre fragrances. I think of parisians gathering discussing Paul Sartre in Saint Germain Café. I think of jazzy rendezvous in smokey bars. The taverns, the cabarets, dark smokey bars and absinth drinking ... Poverty mixed with snobery. Chic mixed with hippie.




The opening is very powerful. Peach is fleshy, acid and dark. It is also sparkling and feminine. The perfume has a Cuir de Russie accord containing a very deep and dark tonality, confirming this nocturne aura. Shelley chose sultry hypnotic notes of rose and gardenia, combined with delicate muguets and lilly of the Valley. She played with antonyms. Light opposed to darkness; delicacy and fragility, opposed to powerful solidity and tenacious notes. Chic although hippie bo-ho!
I love Chypre fragrances! The dirty animal base of oak moss, vetiver, leather, combined with the sensual creamy notes of sandalwood, amber and musk is definitely my style!


I cannot think of a better combination than Maurizio Percoraro 2011 Spring collection and Pêche Noir EDP:





Photo credits: Elle magazine


For more Boho chic looks check on Sienna Miller, Kate Moss, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen styles.


DO EXPECT MORE FRAGRANCE REVIEWS CREATED BY THIS AMAZING PERFUMER!
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