Thursday, March 6, 2014


I has been a while since my last post and the reason is that it has been very difficult for me to enjoy a fragrance in such a way that I feel a desire to share my thoughts about it publicly. There are so many perfume blogs out there... So many launches each season... Unfortunately time is something that most of us don't have in this same proportion. I don't. I am not a perfume BLOG-GUIDE "look for fragrances to buy" kind of blog. I don't run after the newest launches. So today for me to sit and invest time to review a perfume it must be really about something that touched me in a special way.


JOUR D'HERMÉS EDP did not catch my attention when it was launched back in 2012. Fact is that none of the latest launches of the brand were interesting to me at all, so I did not feel particularly enthusiastically curious about this one too until I read an interview with Jean Claude Ellena and the fragrance. I found the story surrounding it quite interesting.  He got me curious, but even so, not curious enough. At least not until I got to NYC. 
It was a very cold day and I was literally freezing to death. Macy's seemed a open door to a tour to hell but what the heck, they had heaters! Wondering around the first floor without any particular interest I passed by the Hermés counter and the perfume was there displayed.  I approached the counter without many expectations, but once I held that beautiful flacon with my hands I fell in love with it.

When you hold a very heavy perfume bottle the first thing that comes to mind is that  that you are holding a luxurious piece of art (concept developed by Pochet du Courval). 

A kaleidoscope contain tiny pieces of colorful glass in various shapes and as we look in one end, light penetrates in the opposite side creating a colorful pattern that changes every time we move the kaleidoscope. 
JOUR D'HERMÉS EDP is an olfactive kaleidoscope.  In this fragrance composition molecules combine and recombine to create a expression of femininity, beauty and light. The fragrance is also a combination of opposites. The heaviness of the glass against the lightness of the fragrance. Simplicity as a concept, developed by a very complexed technique of combining common components to avoid overleaping and redundancies. Naturalness and abstraction. A bouquet of flowers that you don't recognize separately as a composition of single flowers; instead, a multiflower effect. Outdoors and indoor flowers. Voluptuousness and bucolically.  Effortlessness and elegancy.

JOUR D'HERMÉS EDP is a beautiful Americanization of Hermés Frenchy perfumes. It is crisp, clean, airy flowery and somehow it reminds me of QUARTZ POUR FEMME EDP BY MOLINEAUX. I found the same clarity and loveliness that Chandler Burr finds in Quartz. The same citrusy flowery beauty.

This year the brand is launching Jour d'Hermés Absolu - a more voluptuous and more sensual version. Transparency here gain depth. Notes of jasmine Sambac, honey and apricot flowers were added to the original composition. Although Ellena did not want to list the ingredients of the original version he has already revealed the notes such as jasmine, gardenia, sweet peas, patchouli, musk and sandalwood. 

I must add to this trilogy the Perfume concentration of Jour d'Hermés launched in 2013 - IMO is breath taking - not because of its beauty. It is so strong, diffusing in atomic proportions that literally makes on breathless. I did not like it at all.

P.S.: Although JCE says Jour d'Hermés is not the feminine version of Terre d'Hermés smelling both at the same time you will find many common notes.They pair well.

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