Break/Intervalo

Este blog está ausente até 01 de março.

Vejo vocês em uma semana!

This blog will have a break till March 1st.

See you all in a week!

David Gandy

Delicious in Blue

Delicious in nature

Delicious in Ikon

Photo credits: Images de parfums, jornale.com.br, D&G

When Cowboys meet Indians - Part II

Part II - The Indians

Black Foot flashing a Hide

Since I was a little kid I was fascinated by native cultures.

While my friends were playing cowboys and indians I was questioning my parents and teachers why indians were killing white people (that was the message in all the movies and tv series - that indians were the bad guys). Thanks to them I soon realized that story is always told by the ones who wins battles and wars and that information is manipulated by a small group of people. I learned that in the reality, white people, or conquers as they were called, slaughtered natives due to greed. They stole from them their land, their culture and their possessions. They put natives into slavery, erased their cultures and beliefs and tried to transform them into something they were not.The real savages were not the indians. No matter where it was, Brazil, Colombia, Australia, Mexico or in the US, the story was always the same.

In 2004 I spent a lot of my free time researching for photos, historical sites and artifacts of American Native Indians. I was particularly in love with Zunis and Navajos.

I had a dream project of opening a shop in São Paulo where I would sell Indian's textiles dolls and jewelry. The project stayed in my dreams but the love for this culture was planted deep into my heart.

When I first started to read about Roxana Villa and her brand Roxana Illuminated Perfume, I got very interested not only in her fragrances and in her art, but also in her concern with the world surrounding her and her family (example: her support and activities concerning The California Chaparral Institute).

We were writing to each other, exchanging ideas, and she sent me a beautiful set of samples of her collection.

I thought it was funny when I read in her site that Chaparral was called the cowboy perfume because the first image that came to my mind when I opened the sample vial was INDIANS!

I learned that Chaparral is a perfume inspired by her love for the indigenous plants of California, and her research back in 2006 on incense. Roxana learned how Native Americans used sage to clear space or to fumigate an individual, and she decided to create a perfume surrounding incense and the California Native American Indians.

According to the designer it is a tail of aromatic spirit and tradition of the wild west. It is a combination of essences, accords and tinctures of plants found in the Chaparral Biome of California.

Perfume notes: frankincense, wood and sage

To me it was like translating all the images I have researched, compared and and fell in love with, into a fragrance. It was really transforming images into a smell.

Chaparral is mystical, transcendent amazing concept perfume.

Hand craft Taos Indian drum & kachina doll

by Jacinda Loley

Antler Maiden Zuni Fetish by Troy Sice

Navajo kachina doll by Alta Apachino

Navajo Qilt

Ruth and Vera Tyler

MSUM 1996:81.3

Photo by Doug Elbinger

all rights reseved by the Michigan State University Museum

Zuni Bracelet by Emory Lalacito

For video click here: Yeha Noha

Learn more about natives, click here

Photocredits of Chaparral: Roxana Villa

Photocredits of Chaparral view: http://www.californiachaparral.com

Photocredits of artifacts and art: www.museum.msu.edu

Photocredits of artifacts and art: Pueblo

Tendências & Comportamento

Tzipi Livni

O mundo está entrando numa nova era. Barak Obama é o primeiro negro a ser eleito presidente dos Estados Unidos. Os homossexuais estão conseguindo formalizar suas uniões, e as mulheres que já vinham conquistando posições corporativas de expressão, conquistaram mais espaço no mundo na política.

Assim como Hillary Clinton passou a pertencer ao trio de mulheres nomeadas a Secretária de Estado, após os mandatos de Condoleezza Rice e Madeilene Albright, Tzipi Livni está a um passo de ser a nova Primeira Ministra de Israel.

As mulheres, que antes se demostravam masculinizadas para obter o respeito dos homens, que andavam de terno e perfumes amadeirados, evoluiram. Elas não precisam mais provar a qualquer custo que sabem trabalhar como os homens. Elas já conquistaram seu espaço.

No discurso de ontem a noite após a vitória da pré-eleição, Tzipi Livni mencionou a importância da sua família e dos seus filhos. Fez questão de incluir seu marido/casamento como peça chave para sua vitória. E ele estava lá, aplaudindo sua mulher, assim como Clinton estava aplaudindo sua esposa Hillary.

Os homens estão atrás das mulheres do poder. Antigamente era o oposto. Dizia-se que atrás de um grande homem sempre tem uma grande mulher.

Tzipi Livni é Secretária de Estado, a representante do partido Kadima e candidata a ao cargo de Primeira Ministra. Mas acima de tudo: ela é mulher, esposa e mãe.

Um belo exemplo da mulher atual. Aquela que não anulará sua vida particular para poder concorrer no mundo dos homens. Aquela que volta para casa para dar boa noite para os filhos. Aquela que é aplaudida pelo seu marido, orgulhoso e emocionado com a sua conquista.

E assim como os valores estão mudando, a moda e a perfumaria também está.

Designers terão que criar perfumes que refletem esta nova mulher e como consequência, as fragrâncias masculinas também evoluirão.

A pergunta que fica no ar é a seguinte: com a fusão de papéis masculinos e femininos dentro da sociedade atual, veremos um declínio ou um aumento de perfumes unissex (compartilhados)? As pessoas buscarão perfumes que marcam mais uma individualidade?

Tzipi Livni fotografada com o Ministro espanhol Miguel Angel Moratinos

When Cowboys meet Indians

Part One - The Cowboys

Lonestar Memories by Andy Tauer

Andy Tauer is a Swiss perfumer that has been around quite a lot here in my blog for one particular reason: I find him the best concept perfume designer. And Lonestar Memories is my favorite of his creations.

Andy Tauer in his lab

In his own words: "A scent created on memories of a wide land, open pastures, earthy leather, warm smoke, being there, I am free and true."

The fragrance is rich, powerful, long lasting and it marks presence. Once you wear it, there is no chance you will walk around a crowd and not be notice.

What is fascinating about the fragrance is that although you relate to the cowboy image - a man of the wild, simple, lonely, unshaved, tanned, with leather boots, worn out jeans, and dirty hands, the fragrance is very chic, very elegant.

With the green opening the cowboy starts his journey.

He lives the farm with the cattle knowing he will not see his love for months to come. He drives the cattle through the woods, riding his horse down the hill, very early in the morning. As he rides he passes his hands on the green leafs of pine trees.

Down the hill he reaches the valley, the waterfront is beautiful, the foliage gets greener, the rocks are covered with grass and flowers, we reach the heart of the fragrance.

The cowboy leads the cattle to cross the river. The cattle crosses slowly and the sun hits the face like a whip. The leather saddle gets wet. The smell of horse sweat, leather and dust combined revitalizes with fresh flows of water. Our cowboy washes his face and struggles to get to the other side. His clothes are wet, heavy and it is difficult to cross the river. It is a hard work that demands a lot of energy. The perfume explodes on the skin.

Later that day he will find a place to camp during the night. He hangs his wet clothes to dry, he lights the fire and rest. He throws aromatic herbs on the fire and the wood begins to burn.

The smell of the herbs dances around the smell of the wet leather and the smoky notes of the fire. The fragrance involves the night and the cowboy finishes his coffee. He lies near the fire, plays his harmonica and relaxes. He connects to the silence of the nature and the noises of the animals of the wild.

The cattle rests from the long journey.

Our cowboy wishes he had a warm body to hold to. He looks at the flames and he sees a naked body dancing. His body is warming up and he longs for a touch.

Andy Tauer's fragrance irradiates sexiness.

As the wood burns the fragrance stimulates flames of desire.

Our cowboy feels the hands caressing his skin. The soft touch of hands that will lead his dreams.

Lonestar Memories has a gentle velvety touch, a profuse and strong performance. It is extremely sexy, rich, intense and a genius perfume!

The olfactive description according to Andy:

Green and spicy head notes that balance the smoky woody heart:
Geranium, Carrot seed, Clary sage

Smoky leathery heart notes that prepare for the fine woody base:
Birchtar, Cistus, Jasmine, Cedar wood

Fine woody body notes:
Myrrh, Tonka, Vetiver, Sandalwood

Lonestar Cowboy

Lonestar Memories comes in a white box with a picture of a cowboy in black & white. Although the cowboy is cute, the fragrance brings to my mind a picture of a cowboy more virile, more masculine than this one from Tauer's advertising.

Mine is the Clint Eastwood kind of cowboy.

The cowboy from the good, the bad and the ugly ( Il Buono, Il Brutto, Il Cattivo). Violent, uncomplicated, powerful, simple and sexy man with a good soul.

Click here for a Clint cowboy experience.

Click here for Wild Horses - Ennio Morricone.

Click here for Johnny Cash Bonanza. (my most loved cowboy TV series).

Photo credits: Andy Tauer & + Q Perfume Blog/www.smh.com.au

Soon...

Part 2 - The Indians - Chaparral by Roxana Illuminated Perfume.

Ol-Facts Gallery Tommy Summer Editions/Ol-Fatos galeria de edições de verão de Tommy Hilfiger

Every summer Tommy Hilfiger launches summer limited edition.
Todo ano Tommy Hilfiger lança edições limitadas para o verão.

Summer 2002

Summer 2002

Summer 2003

Summer 2004

Summer 2005

Summer 2005

Summer 2006

Summer 2006

Summer 2007

Summer 2008

Summer 2009

Coffee with Avery Gilbert

Dr. Avery Gilbert is a sensory psychologist specialized in the sense of smell. He has conducted research on human odor perception in academic laboratories and in the R&D divisions of multinational perfume companies. He has been lecturing and teaching audiences about the science of smell. He is also the author of the book, What the Nose Knows: The Science of Scent in Everyday Life. It's a fast-paced tour of the latest discoveries and how they challenge long-held beliefs about the sense of smell.

Dr. Avery Gilbert

Photo Credit: Dr.A.G.

+ Q Perfume is a blog interest in all aspects involving fragrances, including the sense of smell. Therefore this blogger is always looking for articles and personalities discussing these themes.

Back in 2008 I discovery Dr. Avery Gilbert's blog called First Nerve - the science and culture of smell. I was very excited to find a professional discussing themes related to the sense of smell and the influence of smells on human behavior. In his blog one can find not only very scientific articles, but also others approaching aspects of our daily lives (some are hilarious).

I sent him questions that were in my mind for a long time, Curiosities that I had about practical things. I didn't want to deep level scientific discussions and themes because we can read them in his blog.

So learn here more about this impressive professional:

+Q.: Why do we like some scents, odors and fragrances and dislike others?

A.G.: People often disagree about individual smells but there is agreement about general classes of smells. For example, fruity and floral notes are liked, while fecal and rotten ones are not. If there were no broad trends in preference there would be no perfume industry. Are odor preferences due to learning and experience? That’s the default assumption of most psychologists, who tend to dislike biological theories. I think the more we look for biological or even genetic bases for differences in odor perception, the more we will find.

+Q.: How exactly marketing campaigns can influence our decision to buy this or that perfume? (related to sense of smell etc…)

A.G.: Marketing matters. It can get you to try a new scent but it can’t make you buy the second bottle if you don’t like it. And if the fragrance is good, but the packaging and presentation don’t fit, then the perfume won’t do well commercially. As perfume becomes more like Hollywood—a reliance on blockbusters, endless sequels, importance of celebrities—perfume marketing runs into similar problems. How do you make a unique campaign for the thousandth picture about car chases and explosions?

+Q.: The Kama Sutra, the fifth-century Hindu sex manual, written by men, praises the scent of women and proclaims that the beauty of a woman is not determined by how she looks, but rather how she smells. But isn't it true that body chemistry influences women more than men when choosing biological possible mates?

A.G.: Both can be true. Let’s say that for men body scent is a source of tactical information—it’s about immediate sexual arousal or turnoff. For women, it’s a strategic matter—choosing a biologically compatible mate for the long haul. This is consistent with evolutionary considerations: males try to maximize mating opportunities, females look to maximize parental investment. Vive le difference!

+Q.: Where do expressions like “this is smelling bad” or “it stinks” come from?

A.G.: A lot of our descriptive terms are crossovers from the other senses. For example, a lot of things smell “sweet” or “sour” by analogy to taste, and “sharp” by analogy to touch. This is currently a hot area for research: it turns out there are brain areas that integrate information from multiple senses, including smell.

+Q.: I was always told that dogs and other animals could smell fear. Is it true?

A.G.: It’s part of the conventional wisdom and there may be a kernel of truth to it. Denise Chen at Rice University just showed that underarm sweat from guys watching stressful movies makes women see fear in ambiguous facial expressions. So perhaps dogs can pick up the same chemical cues.

Cappuccino - Kopenhagen Brazil

+Q.: Freshly brewed coffee is one of the aromas I love the most. Why is it so pleasant to smell roasted coffee or brewed coffee in the morning?

A.G.: I’m the same way. Could it be the psychological association with breakfast? Or a physiological conditioning linked to caffeine? Good coffee is so important to me that I have fresh-roasted beans shipped out from Peet’s in Berkeley, California. I remember the late Mr. Peet from my college days there.

A recent study on the effects of roast coffee aroma got quite a lot of publicity. Coffee aroma increased the expression of genes relevant to stress relief: anti-oxidants, energy metabolism, and so on. There were also changes in protein production that had a similar anti-stress pattern. The experiment was done on male rats, so the results probably seem to be directly physiological—not due to fond stress-relieving memories from college coffee shops!

Click here to read the about the study and learn more about it.

Now the list of words and smell for the quick answer are:

1. Concrete: subway air vents in New York
   
2. Popcorn: movie trailers
   
3. Bacon: Must have some immediately!
   
4. Feet: eh
   
5. Vanilla: easy perfumes for nymphets
   
6. Shampoo: Americans on the way to work in the morning
   
7. Armpit: I’m too close to you
   
8. Wool: blankets in an old house
   
9. Pencil: third grade
   
10. Spearmint: Doublemint gum
    
11. Patchouli: Haight-Ashbury in the Sixties
    
12. Rain: wet earth, spring time
    
13. Dirty underwear: street people
    

Elvis Presley, Palio and swinging pelvis

Breve em Português/soon in Portuguese

Palio a fragrance by Lorenzo Siena

Credits: Lorenzo Siena

Lorenzo Siena is a very gentle man with impeccable manners and a very refined nose.

He is the creator of Palio, a masculine fragrance that reflects all these aspects of his personality. In his website he describes his fragrance as clean, simple and timeless. Also in many interviews Lorenzo explained that his inspiration comes from a visit of an Italian town in Tuscany called Siena. He was moved by its beauty and serenity. Also in this town's tradition since medieval ages, there is a race called Palio di Siena, where Palio means prize.

So while creating his fragrance, he wanted to capture the excitement of the race and the beauty and softness of Tuscany.

And indeed Palio captures excitement. While describing to him my idea of Palio, I recall mentioning to that Palio brings happiness.

Although I love Italy and all related to this country, Palio brings different images to my mind.

It is no secret that I am crazy about powdery perfumes or powdery notes in a fragrance, and Palio has a sweet and fruity touch of pineapples with a powdery combination that makes me feel happy.

From first time I tried the perfume, I fell in love for it.

Lorenzo's juice mixes this dryness and soapness of talc-like notes, with sparkling citrusy notes, fresh greens, icy aromatic notes of lavender, a thrilling touch of mint and a woody finishing that makes this fragrance very unique.

The floral bouquet of the composition is delicate with notes of muguet, star jasmine and rose.

I had no immediate relation to any image in my mind, but two days after my first Palio experience I was listening to a song on the radio while driving to work, when it finally hit me: Elvis Presley. Palio is an Elvis fragrance!

It might sound crazy because Elvis has nothing to do with the middle ages, nor romantic landscapes of Tuscany, but I made the relation right away. As Elvis sang, I had Palio on suspicious mind.

Later that day I sat down to try to understand why Elvis was the closest relation to the fragrance I could think of.

Elvis was very sexy, masculine and charming. He was so sure about his masculinity that in the conservative 50's he had no shame to shake his pelvis. And girls would scream, faint and fall in love for him; with simplicity, he was the answer for a post war era (second world war and Korea). He brought rock and happiness to the dance floor. So I found this happiness in Palio.

Elvis became an icon of his time and till today we love him. Till today we fall in love for those incredible blue eyes, delicious voice and contagious happiness . Elvis is timeless, so was Lorenzo's idea of his fragrance.

I think the fruity note of pineapples brought me straight to Elvis, because like all Elvis fans, I know that he loved Hawaii. He fell in love with the beauty of the islands, the landscapes, the hospitality of the Hawaiian people and surf. And not only did he made three movies in Hawaii (Blue Hawaii, Girls Girls Girls and Paradise, Hawaiian Style) but he also made live performances in the country (the one most well known being the show on January 14, 1973 telecasted world-wide as "Elvis, Aloha from Hawaii"). I can't think of another fruit rather than pineapples to relate to Hawaii.

Credits: garrypalm.com

In all per say, Hawaiian Elvis' movies, he was young, seductive, surrounded by beautiful women, always wearing tight pants that made female crowds go wild.

Romance, long kisses on the seashore, flowery shirts, ukuleles and constant misunderstandings (common to comedies at that time) were trade marks.

So this is Palio perfume. A pinch of romance, a pinch of seduction, a fresh opening, a timeless sense of naive happiness.

Click here for my choice for a Palio audio experience.

Yes, I challenge you not shake the pelvis!!

I challenge you to wear Palio and NOT feel happy!

Click here for Elvis in Hawaii trivia.

From Perfumer:

Simone: "Thank you for you excellent review regarding my cologne, "Palio."
Your instincts and description are quite insightful. I hope your readers enjoy it also.
Thank you again and best wishes.. L.Siena/Pres.
Lorezno Siena Fragrances